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Incidents  of  Travel 


IN     THE 


Southern  States  and  Cuba. 


WITH    A    DESCRIPTION    OF 


(TIjc  UlamiuDtlj  Caiic. 


"  A  snapper-up  of  unconsidered  trifles.'' 


NEW     YORK 
R.     Craighead,    Printer,     83     Centre    Street. 

MDCCCLXII. 


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To 

A   WIDOWED  MOTHER, 
A  BELOVED  WIFE,   AND  AN  ONLY  DAUGHTER. 

Three  Bright  Links  in  Affection's  Chain, 

THIS   VOLUME   13 
AFFECTIONATELY     DEDICATED. 


Introductory. 


The  following  pages  comprise  portions  of  private  letters 
written  by  the  author  to  his  family  clm'ing  a  few  months 
recently  spent  in  Cuba  and  the  Southern  States.  They 
are  now  published  at  the  solicitation  of  a  few  friends, 
who  have  imagined  them  sufficiently  interesting  to 
warrant  their  preservation  in  book  form.  A  limited 
number  of  copies  have  been  printed,  and  as  they  are 
intended  only  for  gratuitous  distribution  among  the 
writer's  friends  and  acquaintances,  the  "  general  public" 
will  have  little  or  no  interest  in  the  merits  or  demerits 
of  the  volume. 

The  places  visited  have  so  often  been  described  by 
intelligent  travellers  that  it  is  almost  impossible  to 
avoid  occasional  similarities  in  description ;  yet,  as 
different  observers  will  select  different  features,  or  even 
view  the  same  things  differently,  it  is  hoped  it  will  be 
apparent  that  the  impressions  here  given,  are  those 
received  from  actual  and  appreciative  observation. 


iv  Introductory. 

In  preparing  these  letters  for  the  jjress,  some  parts 
of  them  containing  personal  allusions  (which,  like  com- 
parisons, are  sometimes  odious)  have  been  omitted, 
which  will  account  for  the  disconnected  and  fragmentary- 
style  of  some  portions  of  the  work.  Those  whose 
tastes  incline  them  to  j^refer  "  grave  subjects"  to  those 
of  a  humorous  nature,  mayjierhaps  object  to  the  light 
and  apparently  trifling  character  of  some  of  these  letters. 
Let  such  remember  that  variety  is  the  spice  of  letters, 
as  well  as  of  life,  and  that 

"  A  little  nonsense  now  and  then, 
Is  relished  by  the  wisest  men." 

This  class  of  readers,  doubtless,  will  find  enough  that 
is  heavy  before  they  finish  the  volume. 

c.  n.  E. 

Palmyra,    i860. 


Contents. 


LETTER   I.— WASHINGTON. 

PAGE 

A  City  of  Magnificent  Discrepancies. — Government  Buildings. — 
Tlie  Court  End. — Presiding  Sjnrits. — Habits  of  tbe  Denizens. 
— Hotel  Life. — A  Sudden  Illness  and  Speedy  Recovery. — 
Human  Drones. — Levee  at  the  "White  House,         ...         9 

LETTER  IL— .WASHIN"GTON. 

Our  National  Menagerie. — Fish,  Flesh,  and  Foul. — Noble  and 
Ignoble  Beasts. — The  Lion  Rampant. — Scene  in  the  House  of 
Representatives. — A  Prosy  Member. — A  Maiden  Speech. — 
Procuring  a  Passport. — The  Smithsonian  Institution. — "Wash- 
ington Monument. — Lions  at  the  Navy  Yard,         ...       18 

LETTER  IIL— RICHMOND. 

A  Picturesque  Location. — The  Poetry  of  Nature. — Public  Build- 
ings.— Slave  Culture. — Climatic  Discoveries. — Nondescript 
Vehicles. — Novel  Motive  Power. — A  Stiff-necked  Race. — Past 
and  Present. — Decadence  of  the  Old  Dominion. — The  F.  F. 
V.'a  on  the  Wane. — Its  Representative  Statesmen. — Western 
Virginia. — Its  Resources  and  Future  Prospects,     .         .         .29 

LETTER  IV.— CHARLESTON. 

Tropical  Anticipations. — Capricious  Weather, — Wilmington. — 
Staples  of  North  Carolina. — A  Moral  State. — Slave  Gangs. — 
Our  Locomotive  Impeded. — An  Accident  develops  an  Incident. 
—All's  Well  that  Ends  Well— Arrival  at  the  Palmetto  City.— 
Agreeable  Interview  with  Nature's  Sweet  Restorer,       .         .       39 


vi  Contents. 


PAGE 


LETTER  v.— CHARLESTON". 
Topography  of  the  Git)-.— A  Sca-Cybele.— Its  Public  Parks.— 
The  Athens  of  the  South. — The  F.  F  's  and  their  Peculiarities. 
— Young  South  CaroUna. — Rice  Plantations. — Habits  of  the 
Planters. — Suburban  Celebrities. — Charleston  Harbor  and 
Fortifications. — Physical  and  Moral  Characteristics. — Political 
Heresies. — Miss  Carolina  a  Lunatic. — A  Prophecy.  .         .      48 

LETTER  VL— HAYAXA. 

# 

First  Impressions. — Peculiar  Dialect. — National  Odor. — The 
Town  of  Regla. — Moro  Castle. — Fortress  of  Cabanas  — Eman- 
cipated Gondolas. — Custom  House  Ordeal. — Peculiar  Regis- 
tration.— In  Pursuit  of  a  Habitation  under  Difficulties. — The 
Revere  Hotel. — Spanish  Cuisine. — La  Dominica. — A  Yankee 
Room-Mate. — Musical  "Watchmen, 59 

LETTER  YIL— HAYANA. 

Intra  Muros. — Anti-Peripatetic  Habits  of  the  Ladies. — Yolantes 
and  their  Appendages. — Singular  Customs  of  the  Cubans. — 
Narrow  Streets — Its  Buildings. — Residence  of  a  Marquis. 
— Ubiquitous  Cigar. — Tropical  Beauties. — The  Cathedral, — 
Rags  and  Jewels  in  close  Proximity. — Military  Mass,    .         .       76 

L?:TTER  YIIL— HAYANA. 

Peculiarities  of  the  Tradesmen. — Mode  of  Shopping. — Monteros. 
— Customs  of  the  Milkmen. — Yenders  of  Fruits  and  Yegeta- 
bles. — The  Paseo  de  Isabel. — Dazzling  Pageant  — Plaza  de 
Arma.s. — The  Poor  Man's  Opera  — Tacon  Paseo. — The  Bishop's 
Garden. — Fish  Market. — Story  of  Marti  the  Smuggler,  .       91 

LETTER  IX.— HAYANA. 

Yisit  to  the  Country. — Guines. — An  Unappetizing  Discovery. — 
A  John  Gilpin  Ride — An  Ingonio. — Manner  of  making  Sugar. 
— Congoes  and  Coolies. — Grades  of  Society. — Slave  Laws  of 
Cuba. — Coffee  Plantation. — Tropical  Yegetation. — Description 
of  the  Trees  on  the  Island. — A  YcG:otablo  Plionomonon,         .     110 


Contents.  vii 


PAGE 


LETTER  X.— HAVANA. 

Return  to  Guines. — A  Ludicrous  Spectacle. — The  Polite  Foot- 
pad.—Spanish  Mode  of  Robbery.— A  Night  with  the  Insects. 
— A  Miserable  Posada. — Description  of  Matanzas. — The 
Cunibrc  — Scene  in  the  Cathedral. — Cuban  "Women  Graceful. 
— The  Contradanza  and  Fandango. — An  Evening  at  Sea. — 
The  Southern  Cross. — A  Startling  Adventure,         .         .         ,134 

LETTER  XL— HAVANA. 

Domestic  Habits  of  the  Cubans  —  Gambling. — Cock  and  Bull 
Fighting. — A  Priest-Fearing  but  not  God-Serving  People. — 
Ubiquity  of  Roiuanism. — Sabbath  in  Havana. — An  Easter 
Celebration.— Carrying  of  the  Host. — The  Tacon  Theatre. 
— A  Spanish  Danseuse. — My  Landlady  of  the  Revere. — 
Bal  Masque. — A  Saturnalia, 156 

LETTER  XIL— HAVANA. 

Religious  Intolerance. — Protestant  "Worship  Interdicted. — Ser- 
vices on  board  a  British  Man-of-"War. — A  Marine  Choir. — 
U.  S.  Flag  Ship  Potomac. — Preaching  by  a  Boston  Clergy- 
man.— Closing  of  Lent. — A  Bull  Kight. — Private  Theatricals. — 
A  Midnight  Row  on  the  Bay. — Closing  Remarks,  .         .         .172 

LETTER  XIIL— KEY  WEST. 

An  Attack  of  Illness. — Description  of  the  Key  of  the  Gulf — 
Coral  Insects. — Key  Largo.— Amphibious  Bipeds. — "Wreckers. 
— Chmate,  Soil,  and  Productions  of  the  Island  of  Key  "West. — 
Indigenous  Fruits.— Exotic  Plants.— Dr.  Henry  Perrine. — 
Narrative  of  the  Massacre  at  Indian  Key,      .         .         .        .189 

LETTER  XIV.— SAVANNAH. 

Sea  Voyage. — Old  Ocean  in  Good  Humor. — Meet  with  Friends. 
— A  Starry  Night. — Boreas  on  a  Spree. — Personal  Expe- 
riences.— Objections  to  Sea  Life. — Noticeable  Passengers. — 
A  Slave  Trader.— A  Cosmopolitan  and  Disciple  of  Baron 
Munchausen.— An  English  Cockney  Exquisite. — An  Uxorious 
Husband. — IMated,  but  not  Matched.— An  Amusing  Finale,         2 1 5 


viii  Contents. 


PAGE 


LETTER  XV.— MONTGOMERY. 

Description  of  Savannah. — The  City  of  Shade  and  Silence. — Its 
Monuments. — Laurel  Grove  Cemetery. — Buenaventura  — 
Georgians  Constitutionally  and  Climatically  Indolent. — The 
Aristocracy  of  Cottondom. — ''  Congo'"  and  King  Cotton. — 
Macon.— Columbus. — The  Falls  of  Coweta. — An  Indian 
Legend, 22S 

LETTER    XVL— MONTGOMERY. 

Location  of  the  City. — Its  Picturesque  Suburbs. — Every  Paradise 
has  its  Serpent. — Decadence  of  Fogyism. — Ole  Bull. — Southern 
Chivalry. — A  Dry  Subject. — Cotton  the  Blood  of  the  State. — 
Cost  of  Living  at  the  South. — Southern  Staples. — A  North- 
erner's Opinion  of  Slavery. — Its  Objectionable  Features. — 
Talk  with  a  Slave,  242 

LETTER  X VII.— NASHVILLE. 

Re  enter  Georgia. — Natural  Productions  of  the  State. — A 
Georgia  Cracker. — Atlanta. — Hotel  with  an  Appetizing 
Name. — Cool  Treatment  for  Hot  Weather. — A  Victim. — The 
Rival  Waiters. — Chattanooga. — A  Night  of  Unrest. — Amus- 
ing Provincialisms. — Description  of  Nashville. — Lions  of  the 
City. — Its  Environs. — Southern  Hospitality,  .         .         .     257 

LETTER   XVIIL— MAMMOTH  CAVE,  KY. 

The  Cave  Hotel. — Magnitude  of  the  Cave. — Its  Population. — 
Equipments  for  the  Journey. — Atmosphere  Pure  and  Equable. 
— Body  of  a  Child  found. — Hospital  for  Consumptives.— The 
Grand  Gallery. — Church  and  Ball  Room. — Giant's  Collin. — 
Goran's  Dome. — Bottomless  Pit.— The  Scotchman's  Trap. — 
Fat  Man's  Misery. — A  Prospective  Purgatory. — The  Dead  Sea. 
— A  Cold  Collation. — The  Mysterious  Bottle. — Gothic  Avenue. 
— Novel  Names  of  Places. — Lover's  Leap. — Star  Chamber. — 
Stephen  the  Guide. — Human  Remains  found.— River  Styx. — 
Lethe.— Musical  Echoes.— Pass  of  El  Ghor.— Perilous  Laby- 
rinth.—Cleveland's  Avenue.— Croghan's  Hall.— Nine  Miles  from 
Daylight.— Eyeless  Fish.— Piscatory  Phenomena. — Conclusion,     275 


LETTEK    I. 

Washington,  D.  C,  Feb.,  1856. 
It  is  customary,  I  believe,  for  tourists,  and  other 
migratory  bipeds,  to  leave  their  '*  tracks  in  ink ;"  and 
from  the  innumerable  books  of  travel  which  are 
scattered  over  the  land,  it  would  seem  as  if  it  were 
imperative  on  all  who  wander — to  write.  My  tastes 
are  somewhat  nomadic,  and,  although  not  exactly  "  a 
bird  of  passage,"  I  am  "  often  on  the  wing."  Now, 
as  you  are  aware,  I  am  on  my  way  to  a  southern 
clime,  where 

"  Milder  moons  dispense  serener  light, 
And  brighter  beauties  decorate  the  night," — 

and  if  my  rambling,  desultory  letters  prove  interesting 
to  my  family  and  friends,  I  shall  be  satisfied.  *  *  *  * 
I  reached  this  city  two  or  three  days  since,  in  com- 


lo  Washington. 

pany  with  our  mutual  friends  Mr.  and  Mrs.  S , 

and  "put  up"  at  the  National  Hotel,  at  the  request 
of  the  Ex-M.  C.  who  had  made  that  house  his  home 
during  two  Congressional  sessions.  I  shall  not  attempt 
to  give  an  elaborate  or  detailed  description  of  the 
"  Federal  Capital,"  as  it  would  require  more  time  and 
patience  than  I  have  at  my  command, — but  simply 
to  note  a  few  impressions  of  "  men  and  things"  sug- 
gested to  my  mind  during  my  brief  sojourn  here. 

This  has  been   styled    "  the   city   of  magnificent 
distances."     To  me,  it  appears  more   like   a  large, 
unfinished  village,  laid  out  on  an  extensive  scale,  and 
awaiting  completion,  than  a  solid,   compactly   built 
city  of  fifty  thousand  inhabitants.     "  It  is  laid  out" — 
to  use  the  grandiloquent  language  of  the  guide-book, 
— "  on  a  plan  of  great  magnitude ;  and  will,  if  the 
design  of  its  founders  be  carried  out,  and  their  anti- 
cipations realized,  be  a  magnificent  memorial  of  the 
great  man  from  whom  it  is  named :  and  a  city,  whose 
gigantic  proportions  shall  harmonize  with  the  i)Ower 
and  extent  of  the  mighty  Ile])ublic  of  which  it  is  the 
capital." 

Washington  covers  a  large  extent  of  territory,  and 


The  Public  Buildings.  il 

would  be  a  beautiful  city,   if  it  was  finished.     It  is 
extravagant  in  design,  but  meagre  in  execution  ;  pre- 
tentious, yet  simple ;  elegant,  yet  squalid  ;  large,  yet 
small ;  rich,  yet  poor.     Its  design  and  architecture  are 
abnormal — half   city    and   half  village;    combining 
many  of  the  elements  of  the  one,  with  the  appearance 
of  the  other.     A  city  in  population  and  extent,  but 
a  village  in  its  sparsely  built  streets,  its  wide  ram- 
bling avenues,  its  low  homely  buildings,  and  tiny 
triangular  squares,  it  has  a  peculiarly  suburban  expres- 
sion.    Its  private  residences,  with  a  few  exceptions, 
are  unattractive  in  appearance,  and  insignificant  when 
compared  with  many  of  the  government  buildings, 
which,  though  in  an  unfinished  state,    are   colossal 
structures,  magnificent  in  their  proportions,  beautiful 
in  design,  and  noble  specimens  of  American  architec- 
ture.    The  Capitol,  when  completed,  will  be,  without 
doubt,    the  finest  public   edifice   in   the  world.     It 
stands  on  the  brow  of  a  hill  some  seventy  feet  above 
the  Potomac,  and,  from  its  elevated  position,  com- 
mands a  view  of  the  city  and  surrounding  country — 
a  view  probably  unsurpassed  for  variety,  beauty,  and 
extent,  by  any  in  this  country. 


1 2  Washington. 

From  the  Capitol,  which  is  "  the  hub"  of  this  poli- 
tical universe,  radiate,  like  spokes  in  a  wheel,  various 
streets  and  avenues,  whose  peculiar  names  comprise 
most  of  the  letters  of  the  alphabet,   many  of  the 
numerals,  and  all  of  the  original  States  of  the  Union. 
Pennsylvania   Avenue,    the   principal    thoroughfare, 
extends  in  a  direct  line  from  the  ''  Capitoline  Hill" 
to  the  Treasury  Buildings,   a  distance  of  nearly  a 
mile  ;  there  it  makes  a  short  deimir^  and  continues  its 
course,  by  the  Executive  Mansion,  to  the  borders  of 
Georgetown,  which  is,  in  fact,  but  a  suburb  of  Wash- 
ington.    It  is   a   place   of  but   little   business,    and 
derives  its   support   entirely   from    the    fashionable 
denizens  of  this  metropolis.     That  part  of  the  city 
where  the  President's  house  is  situated,  is  known  as 
"  the  Court  End,"  where  most  of  the  aristocracy  who 
keep  house,  reside.     The  best  residences  are  in  this 
vicinity,  although  but  few  of  them  have  any  preten- 
sions to  exterior  beauty.     Tbe  principal  hotels,  stores, 
and  places  of  business  are  on  Pennsylvania  Avenue, 
a  street  of  great  width  and  well  macadamized,  afford- 
ing  a   direct  and  easy  communication  between  the 
Capitol  and  the  several  Departments. 


Its  Mixed  Society.  13 

It  is  an  indisputable  fact  that  Washington,  during 
the  winter,  contains  a  greater  amount  of  intelligence, 
vice,  beauty,  and  moral  deformity,  than  any   other 
city  in  the  Union.     It  is  a  hibernating  place  for  poli- 
ticians, office-seekers,  fortune-hunters,  gamblers,  and 
votaries  of  fashion  and  folly.     People  of  almost  every 
rank,  color,  and  nation,  are  here  congregated:  and 
Dignitaries,  both  civic  and  military,  with  titles  real 
or  assumed,  and  persons  of  known  or  doubtful  repu- 
tation,  are  to  be  found  here  "  as  thick  as  birds  during 
blackberry    time."     Governors,    senators,    generals, 
colonels,    diplomats,    envoys  ordinary   and   extraor- 
dinary, officers  in  full-pay,  half-pay,  and  no  pay  at 
all,  judges  of  probates  and  reprobates,  members  of 
the  bar   and  frequenters  of  the  bar-room,  bankers 
who  preside  over  the  faro-banks  and  brokers  who 
are  always  "dead  broke,"  besides  a  liberal  sprinkling 
of  "the   fancy,"   including   "men  of  muscle"   and 
"  men  of  straw."     The  presiding  spirits  of  the  place 
are    ardent    spirits;    the    most    popular    bank    the 
faro-bank ;  and  to  be  caught  "  dealing  in  ivory,"  is 
a  capital,  but  not  an  indictable  offijnce.     The  checks 
most    in    use    here    are   "ivory   checks,"   and   the 


14  Washington. 

dealer  is  not  to  be  mistaken  for  "  the  De'ih"  To 
speak  paradoxically,  those  occupying  the  highest 
positions  are  often  found  in  the  lowest  places ;  while 
those  who  are  always  tight^  are  invariably  loose  in 
their  morals.  Washington  is,  in  fact,  a  medley  of 
contradictions.  Almost  everything  appertaining  to 
it  is  different  from  what  it  seems,  and  nothing  is 
what  it  appears  to  be.  From  the  number  of  hacks 
and  carriages  standing  in  the  streets,  you  would 
imagine  that  every  one  rode  ;  yet,  from  the  multitude 
of  pedestrians  thronging  its  avenues,  it  would  appear 
that  every  one  lualked.  The  society  is  ephemeral, 
and  the  city  alternately  populous  and  deserted.  One 
month  it  may  be  full  to  overflowing,  and  the  next, 
presenting  a  mournful  illustration  of  Goldsmith's 
"  Deserted  Yillage."  One  set  of  inhabitants  may 
reside  here  to-day,  and  another  to-morrow ;  they  are" 
the  sport  of  fortune  and  politics,  and  know  not  whe- 
ther they  are  here  for  a  day  or  for  a  lifetime. 

Washington,  though  far  from  being  an  Eden,  is  a 
paradise  for  hotel-keepers  and  proprietors  of  small 
boarding-houses:  who  make  their  hay  in  the  win- 
ter, when  the  sun  is  not  expected  to  shine.     During 


Hotel-Life.  i^ 

the  summer  tliese  places  are  closed  or  nearly  deserted ; 
grass  grows  before  their  doors,  which  is  to  be 
gathered  the  next  winter,  thus  reversing  the  usual 
order  of  husbandry.  These  hotels  are  vast  caravan- 
saries— colossal  hives,  filled  with  human  drones,  who 
subsist  on  government  honey,  or  prey  upon  each 
other.  The  ''  B's  "  hiv^ed  here  are  very  numerous, 
consisting,  in  part,  of  Benedicts,  Bachelors,  Belles, 
Beaux,  Black-legs,  Blue-stockings,  and  a  miscella- 
neous collection  of  "  Buo^s,"  bior  and  little.  I  had 
supposed  that  the  hig-hugs  were  confined  chiefly  to 
the  White  House  and  the  residences  of  the  aristo- 
cracy. But  I  discovered  my  mistake  when  I  took 
possession  of  my  room  on  the  upper  floor,  which  was 
infested  with  giant  cockroaches  and  other  aristocratic 
insects.  How  thev  ever  attained  such  an  elevation, 
through  such  a  labyrinth  of  passages,  and  around  so 
many  angles,  both  acute  and  oblique,  was  beyond  my 
comprehension,  for  I  was  unable  to  find  my  way  up 
without  the  assistance  of  a  guide,  after  having  been 
once  shown  the  way.  But  the  instinct  of  animals  is 
sometimes  superior  to  that  of  the  human  race.  When 
I  first  arrived  at  this  hotel,  I  asked  for  a  quiet  room. 


1 6  Washington. 

but  did  not  expect  to  be  sent  np  into  the  celestial 
regions,  so  far  above  "  this  dim  spot  which  men  call 
earth."  I  retired  to  rest  at  the  usual  hour,  and  slept 
soundly  until  about  midnight,  when  I  was  awakened 
by  the  sound  of  voices  in  an  adjoining  room.  At 
first  I  supposed  them  to  be  students  in  astronomy. 
who  had  sought  this  elevated  place  where  they  could 
study  the  arcana  ccelestia  without  the  aid  of  a 
telescope.  But  I  soon  discovered,  by  various  noisy 
demonstrations,  that  they  were  votaries  of  a  much 
less  recondite  science,  although  one  that  is  not  often 
investigated  without  the  assistance  of  a  glass.  These 
hon-vivantSj  if  not  believers  in  spiritualism,  were  at 
least  spintnsillj  inclined ;  and  if  not  free-thinkers, 
they  certainly  w^ere  free-dnnkerSj  and  kept  up  their 
revels  until  a  late  hour. 

I  slept  very  little  that  night,  and  arose  the  next 
morning  quite  indisposed — that  is,  indisposed  to 
occupy  the  same  room  another  night.     Went  down 

to  the  office,  found  Dr. (one  of  the  proprietors), 

to  whom  I  described  my  symptoms.  lie  pronounced 
my  disease  an  aggravated  room-aide  complaint,  and 
prescribed  as  a  remedy,  "  a  quiet  room  on  the  second 


The  President's  Levees.  17 

floor."     I  followed  his   advice,   and  speedily  reco- 
vered. 

The  society  in  Washington  is  ostensibly  democra- 
tic, although  there  is  a  sufficient  mixture  of  aristo- 
cracy to  give  it  variety.  The  President  is  the 
acknowledged  representative  of  the  democracy.  His 
levees  are  free  to  all  who  desire  to  attend.  A  coat 
capacious  enough  to  hide  a  soiled  shirt,  a  clean  collar 
(or  none  at  all),  with  a  little  assurance,  is  the  only 
passport  necessary  to  executive  hospitality.  At  these 
semi-monthly  reunions,  all  classes  are  represented, 
both  plebeian  and  patrician  ;  the  purse-proud  million- 
aire and  the  penniless  vagabond ;  the  foreign  count 
and  the  native  artisan  ;  the  stiff  upper-crust  of  society 
and  the  lower  strata  of  unwashed  and  unkempt 
humanity.  A  large  and  promiscuous  multitude 
assemble  at  the  White  House  on  these  occasions,  to 
pay  their  individual  respects  to  the  Executive  and 
ruler  of  this  Eepublican  Court. 


LETTER    II. 

"Washington,  Feb.,  1856. 
I  HAVE  just  returned  from  the  Capitol,  which 
might,  with  propriety,  be  designated  as  our  national 
menagerie.  During  the  winter  it  contains  a  rare  but 
somewhat  antagonistic  collection  of  zoological  speci- 
mens, consisting  of  beasts  of  burden  and  beasts  of 
prey,  birds  with  beautiful  plumage  and  birds  of  ill- 
omen  ;  and  another  class,  interesting  to  the  ichthyo- 
logical  connoisseur,  which,  from  their  scaly  appear- 
ance, evidently  belong  to  "the  finny  tribe," — that 
peculiar  variety  known  as  "  suckers ; "  but,  having 
been  so  long  out  of  their  native  element  (although 
frequently  "in  hot  water"),  they  would  fail  to  recog- 
nise it  unless  strongly  diluted.  Among  the  quadru- 
peds here  are  the  lordly  lion,  the  ferocious  tiger,  the 
wily  fox,  the  timorous  hare,  and  "  dogs  of  all  de- 


Our  National  Menagerie.  19 

gree,"  from  the  noble  mastiff  to  the  lady's  lap-dog 
and  the  snarling  cur.  Conspicuous  among  "the 
feathered  animals"  is  the  bright-ejed  eagle,  "who 
drinks  the  sunshine,  and  scales  the  clouds;"  the 
ghostly  owl,  shrieking  his  baneful  note;  besides 
an  indefinite  number  of  pugnacious  game-cocks,  gab- 
bling geese,  and  ignoble  turkey-buzzards,  who  subsist 
mainly  upon  government  offal.  These  incongruous 
quadrupeds  and  bipeds— both  flesh  and  foul,  are  here 
in  promiscuous  confusion  ;  and,  to  appearance,  are 
much  less  docile  and  controllable  than  that  "  happy 
family  "  of  birds  and  animals  on  exhibition  at  Bar- 
num's  Museum. 

The  Senate  chamber,  to-day,  was  the  scene  of  an 
intense  excitement.  That  old  senatorial  lion  from 
the  wilds  of  Michigan,  who  had  become  grey  and 
almost  toothless  during  his  long  incarceration,  was 
aroused  from  his  lair,  and,  shaking  his  hoary  mane, 
roared  so  loudly  as  to  produce  fearful  consternation 
among  the  lesser  animals.  It  appears  that  the  British 
lion,  which  had  for  so  many  years  been  lying 
"  couchant,"  had,  for  some  unexplained  cause,  sud- 
denly become  "  rampant,"  and  was  now  growling  and 


20  Washington. 

showing  his  teeth  in  anger  towards  the  animals  on 
this  side  of  "  the  big  water ;  "  the  news  of  which  had 
just  reached  the  Federal  capital.  The  doughty 
Michigander  was  belligerently  inclined.  His  speech 
was  "  full  of  sound  and  fury,"  and  signified  some- 
thing^ if  one  could  judge  from  the  significant  looks 
of  the  senators,  and  the  breathless  attention  with 
which  the  crowd  of  spectators  in  the  gallery  regarded 
the  speaker,  as  if  they  considered  his  inflammable 
remarks  the  harbinger  of  a  conflict  wdth  the  mother 
country.  I  do  not,  however,  anticipate  any  serious 
trouble  with  England.  It  would  be  suicidal  for  her 
to  engage  in  war  with  us  at  this  time,  and  it  is  the 
settled  policy  of  our  government  to  maintain  peace 
with  all  nations. 

After  having  listened  for  a  time  to  the  senator's 
fiery  declamation,  and  fearing  that,  if  I  remained 
longer,  I  might  become  imbued  with  warlike  senti- 
ments, I  repaired  to  the  Hall  of  Representatives, 
where,  as  some  one  has  facetiously  remarked,  "  they 
talk  without  courtesy,  and  debate  without  decency." 
With  equal  truth,  he  might  have  added,  they  chew 
without  moderation^  and  spit  on  the  carpet  without  com- 


Scene  in  the  House.  21 

junction.  A  more  "undignified  and  less  orderly 
assemblage  I  scarcely  ever  saw.  Some  were  loung- 
ing in  their  chairs,  with  their  feet  elevated  upon  the 
desks  before  them;  others  were  running  here  and 
there,  or  were  gathered  together  in  groups,  talking 
loudly,  and  paying  no  attention  to  the  "member" 
who  was  then  speaking :  while  a  large  number  were 
at  their  desks,  reading  newspapers,  writing  letters,  or 
tearing  their  manuscripts  into  small  bits  and  strewing 
them  over  the  floor,  which  was  as  untidy  and  litter- 
ary  in  its  appearance  as  an  editor's  sanctum.  And 
last,  if  not  least,  I  observed  one  gentleman  (?)  with  a 
rubicund  face  and  a  form  of  aldermanic  proportions 
quietly  sleeping  in  his  chair. 

After  having  listened  for  a  while  to  the  speaker 
who  had  the  floor,  and  learning  that  he  had  been 
holding  forth  for  nearly  an  hour,  I  only  wondered 
that  more  of  the  members  were  not  asleep ;  for  a 
more  prosy  discourse  (I  cannot  call  it  a  speech)  I 
never  before  heard.  It  was  "linked  dulness  lonsr 
drawn  out."  His  methodical  manner  and  monotonous 
delivery  would  have  been  better  suited  to  an  itinerant 
lay-preacher.     The  gentleman  had  evidently  mistaken 


22  Washington. 

his  calhng.  On  another  occasion,  I  heard  a  young 
neophyte  deUver  his  "  maiden  speech "  before  the 
House ;  which  was  the  exact  counterpart  of  the  one 
just  described.  His  voice  was  pleasant,  and  his  man- 
ner easy  and  graceful,  but  his  style  was  a  little  too 
declamatory  and  flowery  for  the  occasion.  At  times, 
he  would  soar  into  the  regions  of  fancy, — so  high 
that  I  trembled  lest  he  would  never  get  back  again 
into  this  "  breathing  world.''  I  soon  discovered  that 
he  was  more  prolific  in  words  than  in  ideas ;  it  was 
vox  et  2)rceterea  nihil.  He  evidently  adhered  to  the 
rule  of  the  diplomatic  Talleyrand,  that  "words  were 
not  intended  to  convey,  but  to  conceal  ideas."  I  left 
during  one  of  his  aerial  flights,  being  fearful  that 
some  accident  might  befall  him  in  his  efforts  to  return 
to  terra- firma.     *     *     * 

As  I  design,  during  my  absence,  to  visit  the  domi- 
nions of  Her  Catholic  Majesty  the  Queen  of  Spain,  I 
called  to-day  at  the  Department  of  State,  to  procure 
a  passport,  taking  with  me  a  friend  to  prove  my 
identity — that  I  was  my  "  individual  self,"  and  a 
native  of  this  land  of  stars  and  stripes.  Fortunately, 
I  was  not  obliged  to  trace  my  genealogy  from  the 


Procuring  a  Passport.  23 

"martyr'd  Jolin,"  whose  existence  terminated  so 
abruptly  at  Smithfield;  or  to  show  which  of  the 
illustrious  "ten  "  had  the  honor  to  be  my  progenitor. 
But  my  body -corporeal  was  inspected  longitudinally 
and  latitudinally : — was  weighed  in  a  balance,  and 
found  not  to  be  entirely  wanting.  For  your  edification, 
I  will  copy  a  portion  of  this  passport : 

"  To  all  to  whom  these  presents  shall  come,  Greet- 
ing :  I,  the  undersigned.  Secretary  of  State  of  the 
United  States  of  America,  hereby  request  all  to  whom 
it  may  concern,  to  permit  safely  and  freely  to  pass 

Mr. ,  a  citizen  of  the  U.  S.,  and  in  case  of  need, 

to  give  him  all  lawful  aid  and  protection.      Given 
under  my  hand  and  seal,  &c."    Signed,  "VV.  L.  Marcy. 

Then  follows  a  description  of  my  "outer  man." 
"Stature,  five  feet  ten  and  a  half  inches,  English 
measure ;  weight,  one  hundred  and  forty -two  pounds ; 
age  (I  have,  I  confess,  a  feminine  weakness  about 
exposing  my  age) ;  forehead,  high ;  eyes,  blue  ; 
nose,  straight;  mouth,  medium;  chin,  small;  hair, 
brown ;  complexion,  florid ;  face,  oval."  If  this  is 
a  correct  portraiture  of  my  "  human  face  and  form 
divine,"  it  will  answer  as  the  descriptive  part  of  an 


24  Washington. 

advertisement  if  I  am  ever  strayed  or  stolen.  As  copies 
of  these  passports  are  in  all  cases  made,  and  preserved 
in  the  archives  of  the  department,  I  shall,  hereafter, 
"live  in  description,"  if  not  "look  green  in  song." 

The  various  public  buildings  belonging  to  govern- 
ment, and  other  objects  of  interest  in  and  around 
Washington,  have  been  so  often  delineated  with  pen 
and  pencil,  that  any  attempt  on  my  part  to  describe 
them  would  be  a  profitless  undertaking.  The  most 
imposing  buildings  here,  aside  from  the  Capitol,  are 
the  General  Post  Office,  the  Patent  Office,  or  more 
properly  the  Department  of  the  Interior,  and  the 
Treasury  Buildings:  all  of  which  are  now  being 
enlarged  and  otherwise  improved.  They  are  large 
and  costly  structures,  and  when  completed,  will  be  an 
ornament  to  this  City,  and  a  credit  to  our  Govern- 
ment. 

One  of  the  most  remarkable  buildings  here,  both 
on  account  of  its  great  size  and  its  peculiar  archi- 
tecture, is  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  which  was 
erected  a  short  time  since,  at  an  expense  of  over  three 
hundred  thousand  dollars,  by  the  munificence  of  a 
private  individual — a  foreigner,  who  had  never,  that 


Smithsonian  Institution.  25 

I  could  learn,  visited  this  country.  In  the  year 
eighteen  hundred  and  twenty-eight  or  nine,  an  Eng- 
lish gentleman  of  wealth  and -education,  by  the  name 
of  James  Smithson — the  supposed  illegitimate  son  of 
the  first  Duke  of  Northumberland — died,  bequeath- 
ing his  entire  property,  exceeding  half  a  million  of 
dollars,  to  the  United  States,  for  the  purpose  of 
establishing  in  this  city  an  Institution  to  be  devoted 
to  Science,  Literature,  Art,  and  every  other  branch 
of  knowledge  by  which  mankind  might  be  benefited. 
Congress  accepted  the  bequest,  and  the  money  was 
received  into  the  Treasury  in  1838.  But  several 
years  elapsed  before  a  law  was  passed  for  the  establish- 
ment of  the  Institution  as  it  now  exists.  By  this 
delay,  the  Regents  were  enabled  to  erect  the  present 
magnificent  edifice  from  the  interest  which  had 
accrued,  leaving  the  whole  amount  originally  be- 
queathed, to  be  applied  as  expressed  in  the  testator's 
will. 

The  building,  or  rather,  series  of  buildings  (for 
it  covers  several  acres  of  ground,  and  looks  from  a 
distance  like  a  walled  town),  is  constructed  of  a 
reddish -grey  sandstone,  which  is  said  to  be  quite  soft 


26  Washington. 

when  it  is  first  quarried,  but  becomes  bard  after  a 
sbort  exposure  to  the  atmospbere.  Tbe  arcbitecture 
of  tbis  building  is  pecubar.  It  is  a  combination  of 
tbe  Gotbic,  jSTorman,  and  otber  styles  of  tbe  Feudal 
ages,  and  is  entirely  different  from  any  otber  struc- 
ture in  tbis  country.  Its  numerous  turrets  and  towers ; 
its  massive  walls ;  its  battlemented  cornices ;  its  beavy 
buttresses,  and  its  otber  mural  projections,  give  it  tbe 
appearance  of  great  durability,  and  are  suggestive  of 
a  grand  old  castle  of  tbe  olden-time. 

It  is  surrounded  by  a  bigbly  improved  park  of  about 
fifty  acres,  wbicb  was  laid  out  by  tbe  late  A.  J.  Down- 
ing, wbose  sad  deatb  occurred  before  it  was  completed. 
Tbe  lengtb  of  tbe  entire  building,  including  tbe 
library,  picture-gallery,  and  laboratory  attacbed,  is 
four  bundred  and  fifty  feet.  Tbe  main  building  is 
about  one  bundred  and  sixty  feet  deep,  and  its  wings 
are  of  various  dimensions.  On  tbe  first  floor  is  tbe 
museum,  wbicb  occupies  a  room  two  bundred  feet 
long,  by  fifty  wide,  and  twenty  five  feet  bigb,  witb  a 
spacious  gallery  extending  round  tbe  wbolc  interior. 
On  tbe  floor  above  is  tbe  lecture-room,  wbere  lectures 
on  scientific  and  literary  subjects  are  given  during  tbe 


Washington  Monument.  27 

winter.  It  is  an  immense  room,  capable  of  seating 
nearly  two  thousand  persons.  The  museum  contains 
a  large  and  valuable  collection  of  curiosities  from  all 
parts  of  the  globe,  which,  together  with  the  well 
stocked  library  of  rare  and  ancient  works,  and  the 
extensive  gallery  of  paintings  and  statuary,  are 
objects  of  interest  to  the  scholar,  the  artist,  and  the 
antiquarian. 

A  short  distance  from  here  is  the  celebrated  Wash- 
ington Monument,  which,  when  completed,  will  be 
the  highest  work  of  art  in  the  world.  It  is  to  be  six 
hundred  feet  high ;  nearly  three  times  the  height  of 
the  3unker  Hill  Monument,  once  and  a  half  as  high 
as  St.  Paul's  Cathedral,  and  more  than  a  hundred  feet 
higher  than  the  great  Egyptian  Pyramid  of  Cheops. 
But  appearances  indicate  that  it  will  be  many  years 
before  this  inchoate  memorial  of  a  great,  good  man, 
will  be  finished. 

During  a  brief  visit  to  the  Navy  Yard  on  the  Poto- 
mac, I  was  shown,  by  the  officer  in  command,  two  old 
French  brass  field-pieces,  whose  history  is  so  romantic 
that  I  deem  it  worthy  of  mention.  They  were  long- 
eighteen-pounders,  exactly  alike  in  every  particular. 


28  Washington. 

and  from  the  inscriptions  upon  them  it  appears  that 
they  were  both  cast  at  Douay,  a  city  in  France,  in 
July,  1740.  One,  called  "  Le  Vigoreux,"  came  into 
the  possession  of  our  Government  during  Jefferson's 
administration,  at  the  time  Louisiana  was  ceded  to  us 
by  France,  and  was  included  in  the  purchase.  The 
other,  "  Le  Belliqueux,"  was  taken  from  the  Mexi- 
cans, at  Alvarado,  in  1847,  and  recently  brought  to 
this  place,  where,  after  a  probable  separation  of  more 
than  a  century,  these  twin'messengers  of  war  were 
reunited,  and  now  stand  side  by  side.  Near  them 
were  two  Spanish  brass  thirty»twO'pounders,  which 
were  captured  by  Captain  Stephen  Decatur,  at  Tripoli, 
in  the  year  1804. 


LETTEE    III. 

KiCHMOND,  Ya.,  Feb.  1856. 

The  capital  of  the  "  Old  Dominion"  is  distinctively 
a  southern  city.  It  has  a  population  of  about  thirty- 
five  thousand,  and  once  enjoyed  a  wide-world  cele- 
brity for  the  wealth,  refinement,  and  high  culture  of 
its  society.  It  is  situated  on  James  River  (formerly 
known  by  the  more  euphonious  name  of  Powaton),  a 
stream  of  not  much  magnitude,  but  of  considerable 
importance  to  the  manufacturing  and  commercial  in- 
terests of  the  city,  as  it  affords  a  valuable  water-power, 
and  is  navigable  for  vessels  of  small  tonnage  a  dis- 
tance of  nearly  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  the  ocean. 

The  city  occupies  a  boldly  diversified  and  beauti- 
fully picturesque  location.  It  extends  along  the  steep 
banks  of  the  river,  and  over  a  series  of  hills,  from 
whose  elevated  summits  the  views  are  singularly  varied 


30  Richmond, 

and  beautiful.  Its  physical  aspect  and  general  appear- 
ance are  said  to  be  somewhat  like  those  of  Edinburgh. 
It  has  almost  as  many  hills  as  ancient  Rome;  but 
whether  it  bears  any  other  resemblance  to  the  "  Eter- 
nal City"  I  am  unable  to  say.  These  hills  have  been 
designated  as  the  *'  poetry  of  Nature."  They  may  be 
poetical  to  one  who  has  a  carriage  always  at  his  com- 
mand ;  but  if  dependent  on  his  own  powers  of  loco- 
motion, he  will,  I  imagine,  become  so  weary  by  the 
time  he  reaches  the  top,  as  to  be  quite  insensible  to 
their  poetry ;  such,  at  least,  was  my  experience. 

The  finest  private  residences,  and  many  of  the  pub- 
lic buildings,  are  on  Shockoe  Hill— the  aristocratic 
part  of  the  town — which  overlooks  the  business  por- 
tion of  the  city,  and  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  sur- 
rounding country. 

The  Capitol  stands  in  a  public  square  or  park,  near 
which  I  saw  a  massive  pedestal  of  granite,  waiting  to 
receive  an  equestrian  statue  of  Washington,  by  Craw- 
ford, not  yet  completed.  The  Capitol,  from  its  size 
and  elevated  location,  is  the  most  conspicuous  object 
in  Richmond ;  and,  in  the  distance,  has  a  noble  and 
classical  appearance.     A  nearer  approach,  however, 


Its  Architecture.  31 

disrobes  it  of  that  enchantment  which  distance  ever 
lends  to  the  view.  It  is  an  imposing  looking  edifice, 
of  the  Anglo-Grecian  order  of  architecture,  but,  at 
present,  in  a  state  of  dilapidation  unworthy  the  first 
public  building  in  the  time-honored  and  aristocratic 
state  of  Virginia.  There  are  many  old,  distinguished 
looking  residences  in  Kichmond,  and  several  of  the 
streets  are  broad,  and  bordered  with  beautiful  trees ; 
yet  the  city  has  not  a  bright  and  cheerful  look.  There 
is  an  apparent  lack  of  thrift,  and  a  want  of  paint  and 
complete  repair,  so  essential  to  the  beauty  of  a  place. 
Notwithstanding  these  architectural  defects,  and  the 
questionable  morality  of  the  city  (which  is  a  hot-bed 
of  slave-culture,  where  the  ebony  species  are  exten- 
sively cultivated  for  market),  it  possesses  many  attrac- 
tions for  the  northern  traveller,  and  I  feel  well  repaid 
for  my  visit. 

I  observed  while  here,  for  the  first  time  since  leav- 
ing home,  indications  of  the  approach  of  spring,  and 
evidences  of  my  proximity  to  a  warmer  zone.  Many 
kinds  of  halfhardy  shrubs  and  plants  had  been 
removed  from  their  hibernal  quarters,  and  were 
giving  evidence  of  returning  life  ;  while  the  magnolia 


32  Richmond. 

and  other  semi-tropical  trees,  which  grow  here  with- 
out protection  during  the  winter,  had  burst  their 
buds,  and  were  fast  becoming  clothed  with  verdure. 
Observing  a  tree  of  singular  appearance  in  one  of  the 
streets  through  which  I  was  passing,  I  turned  to  a 
good-natured,  intelligent  looking  mulatto  standing 
near,  and  inquired  the  name.  "  Why,  Massa,"  said 
he,  respectfully  removing  his  hat  and  scratching  his 
head,  to  stir  up  his  ideas,  or  something  else ;  "  why, 
Massa,  I  disremembers  'zackly  his  name,  but  he's  a 
kind  of  Heabenly  tree."  It  proved  to  be  an  uncom- 
monly large  specimen  of  the  Ailantus,  or  Tree  of 
Heaven,  which  I  failed  to  recognise  on  account  of  its 
unusual  size. 

During  my  wanderings  about  the  city  I  discovered 
many  features  in  animate  as  well  as  in  inanimate 
nature,  that  were  peculiarly  southern.  The  general 
appearance  and  habits  of  the  colored  population,  their 
peculiar  dialect,  and  the  nondescript  vehicles  and 
appendages  used  to  bring  their  products  to  market, 
were  to  me  quite  novel  and  amusing.  Nearly  all  the 
carriages  that  I  saw  here,  even  the  most  pretentious, 
were  oddly  constructed,  and  had  an  old-fogyish  and 


Peculiar  Vehicles.  33 

somewhat  dilapidated  appearance.  Our  poorest  back- 
woodsman would  not  allow  his  family  to  appear 
abroad  in  as  shabby  a  conveyance  as  I  saw  while 
here,  filled  with  well  dressed  ladies  from  the  country. 
The  planters  generally  come  to  town  on  horse  or 
mule-back,  frequently  accompanied  by  their  wives 
and  daughters,  who  seem  to  prefer  that  primitive 
mode  of  locomotion.  I  learn  that  it  is  not  unusual 
for  the  daughters  of  farmers  and  planters  of  small 
means,  to  come  to  the  city  in  a  cart  drawn  by  oxen, 
accompanied  by  a  plantation  negro,  with,  his  long 
hickory  "gad,"  who  officiates  in  the  double  capacity 
of  postillion  and  beau.  After  having  secured  the 
bovines,  and  given  them  their  quantum  of  fodder,  he 
accompanies  the  ladies  on  their  shopping  expedition 
— a  kind  of  male  Duenna,  to  carry  their  bundles  and 
keep  off  the  "sparks." 

Some  of  the  market-women  rode  in  rude  antiquated 
carts  drawn  by  sleepy -looking  donkeys,  so  small,  that 
no  part  of  them  was  visible  from  behind,  except  the 
tips  of  their  enormous  ears  from  above,  and  their 
quadrupedal  extremities  below.  These  tiny  crea- 
tures make  up  in  strength  and  endurance  what  they 


24  Richmond. 

lack  in  size,  and  are  valuable  for  their  longevity,  and 
the  scanty  aliment  they  require  to  sustain  life.  The 
harness  is  generally  more  primitive  in  its  appearance 
than  the  vehicle  itself,  being  nothing  more  than  a 
simple  breast-strap  with  a  band  across  the  back  to 
support  the  thills.  The  rope  traces  are  often  so 
broken  and  knotted  as  to  look  insecure,  and  the  small 
cord,  substituted  for  reins,  so  slender  as  apparently  to 
be  inadequate  to  guide  the  stubborn  animal.  In  one 
of  those  cumbrous  vehicles  was  an  old  negro  woman 
perched  on  a  high  seat,  with  her  black  and  wrinkled 
face  half  shaded  by  an  enormous  calico  turban,  which 
crowned  her  head.  She  was  complacently  smoking  a 
corn-cob  pipe,  and  apparently  speculating  as  to  the 
probable  quantity  of  ''  tea,  sugar,  and  'baccy"  to  be 
procured  from  the  sale  of  her  load  of  eggs,  poultry, 
and  vegetables. 

It  is  no  unusual  thing  to  see  negro  women  wheel- 
ing hand-barrows  in  the  streets,  filled  with  boxes, 
wood,  and  other  articles.  A  strap  suspended  from 
their  shoulders  was  fastened  to  each  handle  of  the 
barrow,  which  lessened  somewhat  the  labor ;  still  I 
could  not  but  think  it  an  unsuitable  employment  for 


A  StifF-Necked  Race.  35 

women,  wliether  black  or  white,  bond  or  free.  A 
slightly  formed  and  delicate-looking  negro  girl  passed 
me  in  the  street,  carrying  on  her  head  an  immense 
wooden  tray  loaded  with  provisions,  the  weight  of 
which  would  have  dislocated  the  neck  of  the  most 
sturdy  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  race.  But  she  moved 
trippingly  along,  with  folded  arms  and  a  smiling  face, 
as  if  unconscious  of  the  weight  she  sustained,  proving 
conclusively  that  the  descendants  of  Ham  are  ''  a  stiff- 
necked"  if  not  a  rebellious  race. 

While  at  Kichmond,  I  made  the  acquaintance  of  an 
intelligent  New  Yorker,  who  had  been  a  resident  of 
Virginia  a  num'ber  of  years,  and  was  familiar  with  her 
history,  government,  and  peculiar  institutions.  He 
acknowledged,  and  at  the  same  time  lamented,  the 
decadence  of  the  Old  Dominion,  which,  less  than  half 
a  century  ago,  was  first  in  rank  and  the  most  influ- 
ential among  the  original  states,  while  now  she  occu- 
pies but  a  fifth-rate  position  among  her  more  numerous 
sisterhood.  The  golden  age  of  this  Alma -Mater  of 
States  has  passed  away,  never  more,  I  fear,  to  return. 
She  has  fallen  from  her  high  position,  and  is  no 
longer  "  the  bright  particular  star"  in  our  National 


36  Richmond. 

firmament.  A  country  more  eloquent  in  heroic  his- 
tory, or  a  society  more  cultivated  and  refined  than 
once  existed  in  Kichmond,  and  other  populous  places 
in  this  state,  cannot  now  be  found.  The  high-toned 
chivalry  and  unafiected  hospitality  of  Virginians  of 
the  olden  time  has  become  historical,  and  is  as  fami- 
liar to  us  all  as  household- words.  But  this  "  mother 
of  states  and  statesmen"  has  wonderfully  degenerated. 
Her  brilliancy  has  become  dimmed,  and  her  glory 
has  departed.  Where  are  her  illustrious  descend- 
ants, the  worthy  representatives  of  her  noble  ances- 
tors ?  Where  her  heroes,  her  statesmen,  and  her 
orators  ? — her  Washingtons,  her  Jeflfersons,  her  Madi- 
sons,  her  Henries,  and  other  noble  names  revered  in 
history,  and  embalmed  in  the  hearts  of  their  coun- 
trymen ?  Alas  !  where  are  they,  and  on  whom  have 
their  mantles  fallen  ?  Who  are  now  her  represent- 
ative statesmen  ?  Who  her  heroes  and  her  orators  ? 
A  Tyler,  a  Hunter,  a  Wise,  a  Prior,  and  a  few  other 
"  lesser  lights,"  which  are  as  spots  on  the  sun,  when 
compared  with  those  brilliant  luminaries  which  once 
shone  in  our  Nation's  horizon. 

This  state  no  longer  sustains  the  high  national,  poli- 


A  Sad  Retrospection.  37 

tical,  and  social  reputation  it  once  so  eminently  en- 
joyed. Her  politicians  and  representative  men  are 
wanting  in  vigor  of  intellect,  stability  of  character, 
and  many  of  those  moral  qualifications  so  essential 
to  the  prosperity  and  greatness  of  a  state  or  nation. 
Her  "  first  families,"  those  belonging  to  the  ancient 
regime^  and  who  boast  of  a  noble  lineage,  are  no 
longer  living  in  wealth  and  luxury.  Their  estates 
have  become  decayed  and  apparently  valueless,  from 
want  of  proper  care  and  cultivation  :  some  have  been 
obliged  to  sell  their  best  lands,  and  part  with  their 
most  valuable  family  servants,  until  they  have  become 
reduced  from  princely  opulence  to  comparative  indi- 
gence ;  while  many  of  their  aristocratic  descendants 
are  now  living  in  genteel  poverty,  with  but  little  left 
save  "the  prideful  recollections  of  ancestral  name 
and  honors."  This  is  a  mournful  retrospection,  but 
nevertheless  true.  *  *  * 

The  soil  of  Yirginia,  which  was  once  rich  and  pro- 
ductive, has  become  impoverished,  literally  worn  out, 
by  unskilful  husbandry  and  the  improvident  cultiva- 
tion of  tobacco.  This  is  particularly  the  case  in  the 
eastern  part  of  the  State,  a  large  portion  of  which 


38  Richmond. 

now  lies  in  open  uncultivated  fields  and  sterile  com- 
mons ;  while  Western  Virginia,  if  not  advancing  with 
a  rapidity  equalling  that  of  many  of  the  Northern 
States,  is  evidently  improving,  and  with  her  almost 
inexhaustible  mineral  resources,  her  invigorating  cli- 
mate, and  her  comparatively  productive  soil,  will  con- 
tinue to  improve,  if  her  agriculturists  will  abandon 
the  cultivation  of  tobacco  and  turn  their  attention 
to  crops  that  will  enrich,  rather  than  exhaust  the  soil. 
Western  Virginia  has  sufficient  territory  and  abun- 
dant mineral  and  agricultural  wealth  for  an  indepen- 
dent state ;  and  could  she  get  rid  of  her  improvident 
"  other  half,"  which  has  long  been  an  incubus  on  her 
body -politic,  and  an  impediment  to  her  National  pros- 
perity, she  would,  I  opine,  soon  attain  a  distinguished 
position  in  the  sisterhood  of  States.  This  is  a  con- 
summation greatly  desired  by  many  of  her  intelligent 
citizens,  who  dislike  being  subjected  to  the  will  and 
caprice  of  a  class  of  designing  politicians  and  quasi- 
aristocrats,  who  control  the  state,  and  who  evidently 
care  more  for  political  power  and  personal  aggran- 
dizement, than  for  the  prosperity  and  well-being  of 
her  one-and-a-half-million  of  inhabitants.  *  *  * 


LETTER  lY. 

Charleston,  S.  C,  March  1,  1856. 

I  AM  now  in  the  aristocratic  and  picturesque  metro- 
polis of  the  "  Old  Carolina  State,"  where  I  expect  to 
remain  until  the  4th  instant,  when  I  shall  take  my 
departure  for  "  La  Belle  Cuba,"  as  the  Cubans  lov- 
ingly designate  their  beautiful  island.  Our  state- 
rooms are  already  secured  on  board  of  the  steamer 
Isabel,  and  in  forty-eight  hours  (health  and  weather 
permitting)  we  shall  be  gliding  over  the  capricious 
waters  of  "  the  deep,  blue  sea." 

The  evening  we  arrived  here  was  as  mild  and 
balmy  as  a  northern  June.  Overcoats  were  laid  aside, 
and  fires  dispensed  with.  The  weather  was  really 
delightful,  and  we  enjoyed  it  the  more,  having  so  re- 
cently come  from  the  snow-clad  and  ice-bound  regions 
of  the  frigid  north.     But  how  little  do  we  know  what 


40  Charleston. 

a  day  or  a  night  will  bring  forth,  or  what  changes 
may  take  place  in  the  temperature,  from  the  setting 
to  the  rising  of  the  sun.  When  I  awoke  the  next 
morning,  it  was  cold  and  cheerless ;  the  heavens  were 
clothed  in  black  and  weeping  piteously.  The  storm 
raged  without  cessation  for  nearly  two  days,  during 
which  time  I  remained  as  closely  imprisoned  within 
doors  as  a  leg-chained  convict.  The  weather  is  now 
looking  more  propitious,  and  Old  Sol,  by  way  of  en- 
couragement, gives  us  an  occasional  glimpse  of  his 
bright  and  ruddy  face  peering  from  among  the  half- 
threatening  clouds  which  now  and  then  obscure  the 
horizon. 

While  waiting  for  Dame  Nature  to  put  on  a  more 
cheerful  aspect,  to  exchange  her  tears  for  smiles,  I 
will  give  a  brief  outline  of  my  two  days'  journey  from 
Richmond  to  this  city.  Nothing  occurred  worthy  of 
mention  until  we  reached  Wilmington,  the  most  popu- 
lous town  in  North  Carolina,  where  we  spent  the  night. 
This  state  does  not  appear  to  be  in  as  flourishing  a 
condition  as  some  of  the  other  Southern  States.  She 
evidently  feels  the  need  of  a  large  commercial  city, 
which  would  afford  a  market  for  her  agricultural  pro- 


North  Carolina.  41 

ductions,  and  a  place  of  shipment  for  her  vast  mineral 
treasures  :  although  her  recently  constructed  rail- 
roads have  in  some  measure  repaired  this  deficiency. 
Her  progress  has  been  somewhat  retarded  by  the  emi- 
gration of  her  young  men,  which  has  impaired  the 
enterprise,  but  not  the  virtues  of  her  society.  In  a 
moral  sense,  she  is  "  the  noblest  Roman"  of  them 
all.  She  owes  no  debts,  and  will  not  incur  any.* 
Her  paths  are  the  paths  of  prudence,  if  plenty  does 
not  always  follow  in  her  footsteps.  Her  people  are 
honest,  frugal,  and  unsophisticated  :  and  if  she  is 
deficient  in  some  of  the  characteristics  of  her  aristo- 
cratic but  erratic  sister,  South  Carolina,  she  is  less 
sensitive  and  meddlesome  in  her  disposition,  and  has 
more  ennobling  qualities  of  head  and  heart. 

The  western  portion  of  North  Carolina  is  moun- 
tainous, and  not  very  well  adapted  to  agriculture  ;  but 
its  mountains  are  rich  in  minerals,  particularly  in 
gold,  copper,  iron,  and  coal.  The  principal  agricul- 
tural productions  of  this  State  are  Indian-corn,  hemp, 

^    *  This  was  the  case  a  few  years  ago,  before  she  had  built  any 

raiboads  ;    but,  according  to  the  last  census,  the  debt  of  the 

state  was  about  $3,000,000. 

2* 


42  Charleston. 

tobacco,  and  sweet-potatoes,  although  many  kinds 
of  grain  are  also  grown  here  to  a  considerable  ex- 
tent. On  some  of  the  low-lands  cotton  is  raised  in 
limited  quantities,  but  by  no  means  as  extensively  as 
in  the  Gulf  States,  where  "  cotton  is  king,"  and  the 
fleecy  product  holds  dominion  and  unlimited  sway 
over  nearly  two  millions  of  her  willing  subjects,  and 
over  about  as  many  who  are  her  subjects  from  com- 
pulsion^ not  from  choice. 

The  coast  along  the  eastern  part  of  the  State 
abounds  in  almost  interminable  swamps,  interspersed 
with  shallow  sounds  or  lagoons.  The  country  a  little 
further  inland  is  sandy  and  covered  with  extensive 
forests  of  pine,  known  as  "  pine  barrens,"  which  are 
appropriately  named,  as  they  appear  to  be  barren  of 
all  vegetable  productions  except  tar,  resin,  and  tur- 
pentine. The  modus  operandi  of  gathering  and  manu- 
facturing these  articles  is  as  follows  :  A  notch  is  cut 
in  the  trunk  of  the  tree  near  the  ground  to  receive 
the  turpentine  as  it  oozes  from  the  bark  which  is 
scarified  above.  As  soon  as  the  cavity  becomes  full, 
it  is  dipped  out  and  deposited  in  barrels.  This  pro- 
cess of  scarifying  is  repeated  year  after  year,  by  ex- 


Wilmington,  N.  C.  43 

tending  the  incisions  higher  up  the  trunk,  -until  the 
wounded  tree  dies  from  exhaustion,  when  it  is  cut 
down  and  consigned  to  the  tar-kiln.  The  spirit  is 
extracted  from  the  crude  turpentine  bj  distillation,  and 
sent  to  market  in  the  different  forms  of  resin  and  spirits 
of  turpentine.  There  were  thousands  of  barrels  of 
these  odorous  commodities  scattered  along  the  road,  and 
piled  up  at  every  station,  and  for  miles  around  their 
places  of  distillation  the  air  was  filled  with  the  perfume. 
"Wilmington  is  on  the  Cape  Fear  river,  thirty-four 
miles  from  the  ocean,  and  has  a  population  of  about 
ten  thousand,  including  slaves.  It  is  a  place  of  some 
manufacturing  importance,  as  it  contains  a  number  of 
rice-mills,  turpentine  distilleries,  and  machine-shops, 
besides  several  large  steam  saw-mills,  which  turn  out 
each  year  between  thirty  and  forty  million  feet  of 
lumber.  Two  or  three  small  steamers  ply  regularly 
between  this  city  and  Charleston,  and  a  number  are 
employed  on  the  river,  which  is  navigable  for  steam- 
boats to  Fayetteville,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and 
twenty  miles,  and  for  barges  and  vessels  of  light 
draught  to  the  iron  and  coal  regions  far  into  the 
interior  of  the  State. 


44  Charleston. 

We  remained  at  Wilmington  but  a  single  night, 
which,  however,  was  long  enough,  considering  its  very 
indifferent  hotel  accommodations.  The  house  was  quite 
full  when  we  arrived,  which,  perhaps,  was  the  reason 
our  party  were  obliged  to  occupy  such  very  inferior 
rooms  for  the  night.  After  tea  I  strolled  through 
some  of  the  principal  streets,  but  was  far  from  being 
favorably  impressed  with  the  beauty  of  the  place  or 
the  enterprise  of  the  inhabitants.  The  streets  were 
badly  lighted,  but  sufficiently  so  to  show  their  imper- 
fect sanitary  condition,  and  to  reveal  many  defects  in 
the  arrang^nent  and  general  appearance  of  the  city. 

The  next  morning  we  crossed  the  river  to  take  the 
cars  for  Charleston.  On  the  ferry-boat  were  thirty  or 
forty  slaves — men  and  women,  chained  together  in 
gangs,  and  accompanied  by  their  owner  or  overseer. 
They  were  being  taken  to  the  slave-mart  in  this  city,  to 
be  sold  at  auction  to  the  highest  bidder.  It  was  a  sad 
yet  novel  sight  to  me,  as  it  was  the  first  time  that 
I  had  ever  seen  these  human  chattels  fettered,  and 
driven  like  so  many  animals  to  market.  The  women 
were  sad-looking  creatures,  who  seemed  to  realize  to 
some  extent  their  debased  and  degraded  condition ; 


New  Acquaintances.  45 

but  the  men  had  a  stolid  look,  as  if  devoid  of  sensi- 
bility, and  were,  to  all  appearance,  as  unconcerned 
and  indifferent  to  their  fate,  as  a  flock  of  sheep  on 
their  way  to  the  butcher's  shambles. 

On  the  cars  we  found  several  agreeable  persons 
from  the  North,  who,  like  us,  were  en  route  to  the 
Tropics,  in  pursuit  of  health  or  pleasure.     Being  all 
northern  men  with  northern  principles,  we  soon  be- 
came acquainted,  and  formed  a  pleasant  little  coterie 
among  ourselves.     This  was  quite  fortunate,  for  us  at 
least,  as  the  country  through  which  we  passed  was 
entirely  devoid  of  interest,  and  the  weather  anything 
but  pleasant.     We  had  proceeded  but  a  few  miles, 
when  our  engine  (an  asthmatic,  rickety  old  concern, 
which  had  been  used  up  at  the  Worth  and  sent  South 
to  recuperate),  began  to  give  evidence  of  a  want  of 
vitality.      After   several  spasmodic  efforts   at  loco- 
motion, it  stopped  moving,  gave  a  few  convulsive 
shrieks,  and  yielded  up  the  ghost.     Before  our  pa- 
tience had  become  entirely  exhausted,  we  were  over- 
taken by  a  freight  train,  which,  *'  like  a  wounded 
snake,  dragged  its  slow  length  along,"  and  propelled 
us  to  the  next  station,  where  we  arrived  about  mid- 


46  Charleston.  ' 

night,  some  ten  or  twelve  hours  behind  time.  As  the 
cars  that  we  occupied  were  to  leave  on  another  road, 
which  intersected  at  this  station,  the  passengers  des- 
tined for  Charleston  were  obliged  to  remain  there 
until  the  arrival  of  another  train  the  next  morning. 

The  night  was  not  very  cold,  yet  the  mercury 
in  our  mental  thermometer  went  suddenly  down  to 
zero,  on  being  informed  that  the  only  lodging-house 
in  that  vicinity  could  not  accommodate  a  dozen  per- 
sons, while  we  had  here  "  on  deposit,"  two  car-loads 
of  white  bipeds,  besides  a  score  or  two  of  the  descend- 
ants of  Ham.  On  reaching  the  house,  we  found  that 
there  were  just  beds  enough  for  the  ladies  of  our 
party  and  their  respective  "  lords ;"  consequently  the 
despondent  majority  began  to  look  about  for  some 
place  to  horizontalize  during  the  remainder  of  the 
night.  A  few  were  fortunate  enough  to  secure  two 
chairs;  others,  in  despair,  talked  of  removing  the 
carpet  from  the  floor  to  find  the  softest  board  upon 
which  to  lay  their  weary  bodies.  Anticipating  the 
result,  I  early  took  possession  of  a  small  lounge  in  the 
parlor;  wrapping  my  shawl  about  me,  and  pillowing 
my  head  on  my  satchel,  I  tried  to  compose  myself  to 


An  Incident.  47 

sleep ;  but  in  vain,  *'  tlie  mirth  grew  fast  and  furious," 
and  communion  witli  "  Nature's  sweet  restorer, 
balmy  sleep,"  was  out  of  the  question.  While  debat- 
ing in  my  mind  what  course  to  pursue,  a  gentleman 
of  our  party  came  to  where  I  was  lying,  and  informed 
me  sotto  voce^  that  there  was  an  unoccupied  bed  in  the 
room  taken  by  himself  and  wife,  and  if  I  would  wait 
until  they  had  retired,  I  could  come  and  take  pos- 
session of  it.  I  gladly  accepted  the  invitation,  and 
notwithstanding  the  peculiar  delicacy  of  my  posi- 
tion, soon  wandered  off  "  into  the  land  of  dreams." 
We  reached  this  city  the  next  evening  without  any 
further  accident  or  detention,  and  took  rooms  at  the 
Charleston  Hotel — the  Astor  of  the  South;  where, 
for  the  first  time  since  we  left  Washington,  I  have 
enjoyed  the  luxury  of  a  good  meal,  and  a  night  of 
uninterrupted  sleep. 


LET  TEE   Y. 

Charleston,  March  3,  1856. 

I  HAVE  been  occupied  the  entire  day  with  a 
resident  friend,  in  familiarizing  myself  with  this 
city  and  its  environs,  and  am  better  fitted  for  com- 
muning with  Morpheus,  or  some  other  sleepy  indi- 
vidual^ than  for  holding  epistolary  converse  with 
absent  friends.  But  the  steamer  is  advertised  to 
leave  at  six  in  the  morning,  and  I  must  write  now 
or  not  at  all. 

I  am  somewhat  disappointed  in  the  topography 
and  general  appearance  of  Charleston.  Its  territory 
is  very  much  circumscribed,  and  its  narrow  streets, 
with  its  quaint-looking  buildings,  impart  to  it  an  air 
of  quiet  and  gloom.  Occupying  a  low,  narrow  strip 
of  land  at  the  confluence  of  the  Cooper  and  Ashley 
rivers,  which  combine  to  form  its  harbor,  the  city, 


The  Battery.  49 

from  a  distance,  appears  as  if  it  was  half  submerged 
in  water.     Like  aquatic  Yenice — 

*'  Throned  on  her  hundred  isles — 
She  looks  a  sea-Cybele,  fresh  from  ocean, 
Rising  with  her  tiara  of  proud  towers." 

The  streets  are  generally  narrow,  but  regularly  laid 
out,  and  bordered  with  the  Pride  of  India  and  other 
semi-tropical  trees.  The  finest  private  residences  here 
are  built  of  brick,  and  covered  with  stucco.  They 
are  generally  set  back  some  distance  from  the  street, 
and  surrounded  by  high  open  verandas,  which  are 
covered  with  vines  and  creeping  plants.  I  was  sur- 
prised to  see  so  few  public  parks  within  the  limits  of 
the  city.  The  only  one  worth  mentioning  is  the 
Battery — a  broad  belt  of  land,  sparsely  covered  with 
half-grown  shade-trees — which  extends  for  quite  a 
distance  along  the  margin  of  the  bay.  Fronting  on 
this  promenade  are  many  handsome  residences,  with 
spacious  gardens  attached,  belonging  to  wealthy  citi- 
zens. The  Battery  is  a  favorite  resort  of  the  inhabi- 
tants during  the  summer  season,  especially  in  the 
cool  of  the  evening,  when  the  air  is  laden  with  in- 


50  Charleston. 

vigorating  sea-breezes,  whicli  are  wafted  up  the  bay 
from  the  ocean  a  few  miles  distant.  In  another  part 
of  the  city,  near  the  Military  Academy,  is  a  public 
square  of  several  acres,  which  is  used  principally  for 
military  parades.  Being  almost  entirely  destitute  of 
shade-trees  and  other  natural  attractions,  it  is  not  a 
popular  resort  of  the  citizens. 

Charleston  is  one  of  the  oldest  cities  in  the  Union, 
and  is  replete  with  historical  associations  and  revolu- 
tionary reminiscences.  It  has  quite  a  number  of 
churches,  many  of  them  old  and  unarchitectural ;  a 
fine  public  library;  numerous  religious  charitable 
associations;  a  college;  a  Military  Academy,  and 
other  institutions,  where  they  "  teach  the  young  idea 
how  to  shooiy  This  city,  for  many  years,  has  been 
called  "  the  Athens  of  the  South,"  on  account  of  hav- 
ing produced  and  fostered  so  many  distinguished 
statesmen,  poets,  and  philosophers.  Its  patrician  fa- 
milies, those  native  to  the  soil,  have  the  reputation  of 
being  intelligent,  refined,  and  decidedly  aristocratic. 
They  are  proud  and  imperious  in  their  bearing,  yet 
courteous  and  graceful  in  their  hospitalities,  retaining 
in  an  eminent  degree  many  of  the  peculiarities  of  the 


Southern  Chivalry.  51 

French  Huguenots,  from  whom  they  are  descended. 
They  are,  in  fact,  hving  types  of  the  ancient  regitne^ 
genuine  southerners  by  birth  and  feehng,  and  true 
representatives  of  southern  society.  They  have  but 
little  taste  for  commercial  or  mechanical  pursuits, 
and  are  not  at  all  imbued  with  that  spirit  of  progress 
and  go-ahead-ativeness  so  prevalent  at  the  North. 
There  are  many  northern  men  residing  here,  but 
southern  prejudice,  yclept  chivalry,  is  not  inclined 
to  yield  to  northern  innovations,  or  to  adopt  northern 
improvements.  With  them,  pure  blood  is  a  great 
desideratum,  whether  in  biped  or  quadruped,  in  the 
human  or  equine  species.  They  trace  their  own  gene- 
alogy back  for  centuries,  and  their  horses  have  a 
pedigree  almost  as  long,  and  as  free  from  admixture 
with  plebeian  blood.  It  is  said,  with  how  much 
truth  I  cannot  say,  that  there  are  more  families  here 
of  noble  lineage,  and  a  greater  number  of  thorough- 
bred horses,  than  can  be  found  in  any  other  city  in 
the  Union. 

The  young  men  belonging  to  the  "  first  families  " 
here,  have  the  reputation  of  being  refined  in  their 
manners,  indolent  in  their  habits,  but  capricious,  sen- 


52 


Charleston. 


sitive,  and  quick  to  resent  an  insult,  whether  real  or 
imaginary.  They  are  proud  of  their  ancestry,  and 
love  to  be  called  South  Caro-Zm-ians,  which  is  their 
synonym  for  ''  pure  and  undefiled,"  as  they  affect  to 
believe  everything  plebeian  which  does  not  emanate 
from  the  "Palmetto  State."  Many  of  them  are 
liberally  educated,  yet  but  few  are  as  well  versed  in 
useful  literature  and  the  sciences  as  in  those  southern 
accomplishments 

" of  riding,  fencing,  gunnery, 

And  how  to  scale  a  fortress — or  a  nunnery.'' 

They  are  superior  horsemen,  expert  billiard  players, 
capital  shots,  and  well  skilled  in  the  use  of  the  short- 
sword.  They  are  also  punctilious  as  to  the  rules  of 
etiquette,  jealous  of  their  honor,  and  ready  at  all 
times  to  give  or  receive  satisfaction  according  to  the 
code  of  the  "  duello." 

Charleston  has  long  been  celebrated  for  its  superior 
horses  and  elegant  equipages,  and  I  expected  to  see 
the  streets  alive  with  dashing  "  turnouts,"  aristocratic 
vehicles,  and  sporting  men  with  fast  horses.  But  I 
learned,  on  inquiry,  that  it  was  too  early  in  the  sea- 


Rice  Plantations,  53 

son  for  much  of  an  equestrian  display.     It  appears 
that  this  city  is  by  far  the  most  populous  and  gay 
during  the  summer,  as  the  aristocracy  here  reverse 
the  usual  custom  at  the  North,  of  spending  the  win- 
ter in  the  city,  and  the  summer  in  the  country.   Most 
of  the  wealthy  planters   residing  within  twenty  or 
thirty  miles  of  the  city,  have  residences  in  town, 
where  they  and  their  families  remain  during  the  heat 
of  the  summer ;  for  at  that  time  it  would  not  be  pru- 
dent for  any  one  to  remain  long  on  a  rice  plantation. 
The  land  devoted  to  the  cultivation  of  rice  is  low, 
level,  and  contiguous  to  some  small  stream  or  water- 
course, as  it  is  necessary  to  overflow  these  rice-fields 
at  certain  seasons  of  the  year.     This  produces  a  mala 
rious  atmosphere,  which  is  almost  fatal  to  the  unaccli- 
mated.     It  is  deemed  extremely  hazardous  for  any 
white  person  to  remain  over  night  on  these  planta- 
tions during  the  malaria  season,  although  the  negroes 
are  exempt  from  its  deleterious  influence. 

The  country  around  Charleston  is  generally  too 
level  and  monotonous  to  be  really  beautiful,  yet 
there  are  a  number  of  pleasant  drives,  and  many 
interesting  places  in  the  vicinity.     On  the  banks  of 


^"4  Charleston. 

the  Cooper  river,  two  or  three  miles  distant,  is  the 
Magnolia  Cemetery.  This  "  city  of  the  dead  "  was 
once  a  private  estate,  bearing  the  appropriate  name  of 
**  Magnolia  Umbra."  It  is  a  quiet,  lovely  spot,  with 
its  mingled  woods  and  waters ;  its  silence  and  shade ; 
its  patriarchal  oaks  and  noble  magnolias ;  its  mourn- 
ful cypresses  and  fragrant  jasmines.  "Within  its 
sacred  precincts,  "  wrapped  in  the  shades  of  peaceful 
quietude,"  was  heard  no  sound, 

" no  voice 

Save  what  still  Xature  in  her  worship  breathes, 
And  that  UDspoken  lore  with  which  the  dead 
Do  commune  with  the  living." 

Many  of  the  trees,  particularly  the  cypress,  are 
covered  with  a  species  of  lichen,  or  moss,  which 
hangs  in  graceful  festoons  from  the  highest  branches, 
completely  shrouding  them  with  its  gossamer  drapery. 
This  is  a  singular-looking  plant,  and  is  supposed  to 
derive  its  sustenance  chiefly  from  the  air.  It  has  a 
small,  slender  stem,  not  larger  than  a  thread,  which  is 
thickly  covered  with  delicate  frost-colored  leaves,  and 
seems  particularly  fitted  to  adorn  the  trees  of  ceme- 


Suburban  Celebrities.  5^ 

teries.  Its  sombre  hue,  and  waving,  pendulum-like 
motion,  as  it  yields  to  the  slightest  breeze,  impart  to 
Nature  a  funereal  aspect.  This  species  of  lichen  is 
indigenous  to  this  climate,  and  cannot  be  made  to 
withstand  the  severity  of  our  northern  winters. 

In  the  vicinity  of  this  city  are  several  places  which 
are  interesting  on  account  of  the  historical  associations 
connected  with  them.  The  capacious  harbor  or 
bay,  extending  a  distance  of  some  seven  miles  to  the 
ocean,  is  strongly  fortified,  and  was  the  scene  of 
several  sanguinary  conflicts  during  the  Revolution. 
Castle  Pinckney  occupies  a  shoal  about  two  miles 
from  the  city.  A  little  beyond  is  Fort  Sumter,  con- 
sidered by  military  engineers  to  be  one  of  the  strongest 
fortifications  in  the  United  States.  It  is  built  upon 
an  artificial  island  composed  of  broken  stones  and 
refuse  chips  of  granite  from  northern  quarries.  It 
cost  our  government  half  a  million  of  dollars  to  pre- 
pare this  island  for  the  present  fortification,  which 
will  cost  as  much  more  when  completed.  Not  far 
from  here  is  Sullivan's  Island,  on  which  stands  Fort 
Moultrie,  of  Revolutionary  fame  ;  although,  I  believe 
prior  to  the  Revolution  it  was  known  as  Fort  Sulli- 


56  Charleston. 

van,  but  changed  to  Moultrie  after  the  bravery  dis- 
played by  that  officer  in  defending  the  city  from  the 
British  fleet  in  1776.  This  island  has  become  quite 
a  fashionable  watering-place,  and  a  popular  resort  for 
southerners  during  the  summer.  It  has  a  large  hotel 
called  the  Moultrie  House,  and  is  said  to  rival  New- 
port and  Cape  May  in  the  beauty  and  extent  of  its 
hard,  pebbly  beach,  and  in  the  superior  excellence 
of  its  sea-bathing. 

I  have  had  but  little  opportunity,  as  yet,  to  study 
the  physical  character  of  the  Palmetto  State,  or  to 
examine  into  the  moral  condition  of  her  people. 
Her  political  heresies  are  well  known  to  the  world, 
and  her  proneness  to  "  sedition,  privy  conspiracy  and 
rebellion,"  has  sadly  tarnished  her  reputation  as  a 
state.  Her  representative  men  have  evidently  paid 
less  attention  to  her  internal  improvements,  and  the 
development  of  her  vast  natural  resources,  than  to 
"  the  discussion  of  political  subtleties,"  and  the  engen- 
dering of  intestinal  strife  and  discord  between  the 
states.  It  is  a  well  known  fact  that  this  belligerent 
little  state,  this  hot-bed  of  secession  and  nullification, 
has  caused  "  Uncle  Samuel"— -that  respectable  father 


A  Dyspeptic  State.  57 

of  thirty-three  children,  and  one  in  expectancy  more 
trouble  and  anxiety  than  all  the  rest  of  his  numerous 
family.  She  is  a  proud,  capricious  little  bantling, 
erratic  in  her  disposition,  impatient  of  restraint,  and 
with  decided  revolutionary  proclivities;  and  further- 
more, has  made  several  unsuccessful  attempts  to 
break  the  family  compact,  and  set  up  house-keeping 
on  her  own  hook.  She  has  at  times  exhibited 
symptoms  of  lunacy ;  but  a  short  confinement  in  a 
strait-jacket,  with  a  few  cooling  applications  to  the 
brain,  according  to  the  Jacksonian  mode  of  treatment, 
caused  a  speedy  recovery.  But  she  is  evidently  not 
in  good  health,  being  subject  to  periodical  attacks  of 
dyspepsia — a  disease  which  attacks  communities  as 
well  as  individuals,  and  is  often  produced  by  antago- 
nistic causes ;  sometimes  by  too  great  a  flow  of  bile, 
and  at  others  by  a  want  of  that  necessary  element  in 
the  animal  economy.  I  should  not  be  surprised  if 
Miss  Carolina  (who  is  becoming  quite  advanced  in 
years)  should,  in  a  sudden  fit  of  indigestion,  commit 
some  rash  act,  and  perhaps  wander  away  from  the 
paternal  mansion.  But  she  is  too  much  of  a  valetu- 
dinarian to  long  take  care  of  herself,  and,  in  all  pro- 


j;8  Charleston. 

bability,  after  sabsisting  for  a  while  on  a  rice-water 
diet,  with  the  few  crumbs  of  discomfort  that  she  may 
pick  up  during  her  wanderings,  she  will  return,  and, 
like  the  Prodigal  Son,  beg  to  be  received  again  into 
the  family  of  her  paternal  ancestor. 

But  a  truce  to  this  metaphor.  Time  wanes,  and 
I  must  no  longer  burn  the  midnight  gas,  but  try  and 
get  a  little  sleep,  preparatory  to  my  early  departure 
in  the  morning  for  Cuba's  "  promised  land."  The 
mail  this  evening  brought  me  letters  of  introduction 
from  friends  in  New  York  to  several  influential 
Americans  residing  in  Havana,  Matanzas,  and  Car- 
denas, which  may  be  of  service  to  me  during  my  visit 
to  those  places.  My  passport  has  been  viseed  by  the 
Spanish  Consul  residing  here,  my  ticket  procured, 
stateroom  engaged,  trunk  packed,  and  I  have  nothing 
to  do  now,  but  "  to  wrap  the  drapery  of  my  couch 
about  me,  and  lie  down  to  pleasant  dreams."    -^    *    * 


LETTER   VI. 

Hotel  Revere,  Hatana,  March  10,  1856. 
I  AM  at  last  in  Cuba,  that  "  fast-anchored  isle," 
known  in  Castilian  poetry  as  the  Queen  of  the  An- 
tilles ;  and  everything  around  me  appears  so  novel, 
so  entirely  unlike  what  I  have  ever  seen  before, 
that  I  can  scarcely  believe  my  identity.  Havana 
realizes  my  idea  of  an  old  Moorish  town,  with  its 
moss-covered  turrets,  its  crumbling  walls,  its  narrow 
streets,  and  its  oddly  constructed  buildings  of  various 
colors,  which  have  become  dimmed  by  time  or  expo- 
sure, imparting  to  them  a  venerable  and  somewhat  dila- 
pidated appearance.  As  to  the  inhabitants,  I  hardly 
know  how  to  describe  them.  They  are  certainly  the 
quaintest,  queerest,  and  in  many  respects  the  most 
outre  specimens  of  animated  nature  that  I  have  ever 
seen.     The  language  of  the  lower  classes  is  apparently 


6o  Havana. 

an  admixture  of  miserable  Spanish,  more  miserable 
French,  and  most  miserable  English.  Their  speech  is 
rapid,  accompanied  with  vehement  gesticulations,  and 
sounds  very  strange  to  Anglo-Saxon  ears.  Pure  Cas- 
tilian  undoubtedly  is  spoken  by  the  higher  and  better 
educated  classes ;  but  being  ignorant  of  the  language, 
and  without  the  opportunity  or  inclination  to  form 
their  acquaintance,  I  shall  not  have  the  pleasure  of 
criticising  the  purity  of  their  style  or  the  beauty  and 
correctness  of  their  idiom. 

My  "ideas  of  society"  here  are  as  yet  vague  and 
undefined.  Images  of  half-naked  negroes,  sleek  and 
adipose ; — of  swarthy  officials,  redolent  of  cigar-smoke 
and  garlic  ; — of  huge-wheeled  volantes,  with  liliputian 
steeds  and  sable  postillions ; — of  small-sized,  thin- vis- 
aged  senors; — of  dark-eyed,  plump  senoritas; — toge- 
ther with  military  parades  and  priestly  pageantry, 
form  the  impressions  most  distinctly  daguerreotyped 
on  my  mind  during  a  three  days'  residence  in  this  city 
of  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  inhabitants. 

We  approached  this  island  on  the  morning  of  the 
7th,  just  as  day  was  breaking.  Our  gallant  steamer 
moved  slowly  towards  the  mouth  of  the  harbor,  await« 


Moro  Castle.  61 

ing  the  signal  to  enter,  for  no  vessels  are  allowed  to 
pass  the  Moro  between  the  setting  and  rising  of  the 
sun.  As  we  neared  the  ramparts,  a  bright  light  gilded 
the  eastern  horizon,  and  "Old  Sol"  slowly  emerged 
from  his  briny  bed,  and  allowed  "  the  light  of  his 
countenance"  to  illumine  the  scene  before  us.  The 
loud  roar  of  a  cannon  came  booming  over  the  water, 
and  instantly,  as  if  touched  by  the  magician's  wand, 
the  Spanish  flag  was  unfurled  from  the  lofty  tower  of 
Moro  Castle.  Other  flags  and  signals  appeared  simul- 
taneously in  different  parts  of  the  city,  apprising  the 
Hahaneros  that  an  American  vessel  was  approaching. 
We  passed  close  to  the  beetling  walls  of  the  castle, 
whose  massive  battlements  are  as  grey  and  old  and 
gloomy  as  a  fortress  of  feudal  times ;  while  the  long 
rows  of  open-mouthed  guns  looked  down  defiantly 
upon  us  as  we  moved  silently  along  in  its  shadow.  On 
the  other  side  of  the  entrance,  and  within  gun-shot, 
stands  the  small  fort  of  La  Punta,  which  was  once 
strongly  fortified,  but  is  now  used  only  as  a  garrison 
or  prison.  The  heights  beyond  the  Moro,  overlook- 
ing the  city  and  harbor,  are  covered  by  the  extensive 
fortifications  of  Cabanas.     The  massive  walls,  heavy 


62  Havana. 

battlements,  and  ponderous  gates  of  this  fortress  give 
it  the  appearance,  from  a  distance,  of  a  walled  town. 
It  covers  an  area  of  several  acres,  and  to  garrison  it 
effectively  would  require  at  least  ten  thousand  men. 
It  was  built  during  the  reign  of  Charles  III.,  and  its 
cost  has  been  variously  estimated  at  from  ten  to  forty 
millions  of  dollars.  It  is  related  that  this  eccentric 
monarch,  on  learning  the  cost  of  this  fortification, 
called  for  a  telescope  and  began  to  survey  the  heavens. 
On  being  asked  for  an  explanation,  he  remarked,  that 
he  was  looking  for  the  Cabanas,  as  a  work  of  such 
magnitude,  and  on  which  so  much  mone}^  had  been 
expended,  ought  to  be  visible  at  a  great  distance. 

The  harbor  of  Havana  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  larg- 
est and  best  in  the  world.  It  is  sufficiently  deep  to 
float  vessels  of  the  largest  size,  and  capacious  enough 
to  accommodate  the  ships  of  all  nations.  The  entrance 
is  so  narrow  that  only  one  vessel  can  come  in  at  a 
time,  and  its  entire  length  and  breadth  are  covered  by 
the  bristling  guns  of  the  Moro  and  Cabanas.  The 
view  as  we  enter  the  harbor  is  beautifully  picturesque 
and  peculiarly  suggestive  of  the  Orient.  On  one  side 
is  the  city,  with  its  long  rows  of  parti-colored  build- 


Town  of  Regla.  63 

ings,  massive  and  unique  in  their  structure,  ^Yitll  their 
flat  tiled  roofs,  dingy  and  moss-covered,  with  here  and 
there  a  grim  grey  tower  uprising  in  their  midst,  im- 
parting to  the  whole  a  quaint  and  Moorish  expression. 
On  the  opposite  side,  creeping  from  the  water's  edge 
up  the  sloping  sides  of  an  amphitheatre  of  hills,  is  the 
little  town  of  Regla,  once  the  romantic  retreat  of 
pirates  and  buccaneers,  and  celebrated  for  the  splen- 
dor  of  its  bull-fights.  Now  it  is  an  uninviting,  dila- 
pidated looking  place,  and  remarkable  for  nothing 
but  its  extensive  traffic  in  sugar  and  molasses.  How 
great  the  change! — from  the  chivalry  and  quixotism 
of  the  past  to  the  dulce  et  utile  of  the  present.  The 
heights  beyond  the  town  were  agreeably  diversified 
with  woodland  and  lawn,  with  umbrageous  trees  and 
verdant  herbage ;  while  here  and  there  a  majestic 
palm  might  be  seen  lifting  its  proud  head  from  among 
the  masses  of  tropical  verdure  in  which  it  seemed  to 
be  imbedded,  giving  variety  and  beauty  to  the  scene. 
The  beautiful  baj',  over  whose  placid  surface  w^e  were 
noiselessly  gliding,  was  covered  with  vessels  from  all 
parts  of  the  civilized  world,  and  with  the  flags  of 
nearly  every  nation  floating  lazily  in  the  breeze. 


64  Havana. 

Our  steamer  had  scarcely  dropped  its  anchor,  before 
we  were  surrounded  by  scores  of  small  boats  rowed 
by  natives  dressed  in  white,  with  narrow-brimmed 
Panama  hats  surmounting  their  closely  shorn  heads, 
and  by  real  Guinea  negroes  without  hats,  shoes,  or 
any  outer  covering  except  a  scanty  apology  for  panta- 
loons. With  uplifted  oars,  and  in  a  language  unin- 
telligible to  us,  accompanied  with  ludicrous  .pan- 
tomime, these  harqueros  evidently  tried  to  attract  our 
attention  to  the  merits  of  their  different  boats.  But 
our  disembarkation  was  prevented  by  two  sallow-faced 
Spanish  officials  "  clothed  with  a  little  brief  authority," 
and  in  jacket  and  trowsers  of  immaculate  purity,  who 
strutted,  with  cigars  in  their  mouths,  before  the  com- 
panion-way to  prevent  the  egress  of  any  of  the  pas- 
sengers until  their  passports  had  been  examined.  In 
about  two  hours  this  was  accomplished,  and  our  party 
seated  in  a  boat,  surrounded  by  luggage,  and  the 
swarthy  oars-men  pulling  away  lustily  for  the  custom- 
house. 

The  custom-house  reached,  our  baggage  was  placed 
on  the  stone  floor  amid  a  crowd  of  sallow  officials,  and 
stalwart  negroes  of  "  the  deepest  dye."     At  a  given 


Custom-House   Ordeal.  65 

signal,  one  of  these  sable  Hercules  clasped  a  trunk  in 
his  immense  arms,  and  placed  it  in  its  required  posi- 
tion ;  the  straps  were  unloosed,  the  key  applied,  and 
in   a  moment  the   contents  were  exposed  to  view. 
"  A  deeply,  darkly,   beautifully  brown''^  individual, 
with  a  heavy  mustache  and  a  cigar  behind  his  ear, 
approached,  and  in  a  respectful  manner  made  a  slight 
examination   of    the    contents.      If   no    contraband 
article  or  death-dealing  weapons  were  discovered,  he 
said  bue7iOj  and  with  a  wave   of  his   hand   the   lid 
fell,  and  the  trunk  was  safely  delivered  to  the  owner, 
who,   however,  was  not  permitted  to  leave  nntil  he 
had  paid  the  Kegistrador  sixteen   reals  (about  two 
dollars)  and  received  from  him  a  written  permit  to 
remain  in  the  city  for  thirty  days.     At  the  expiration 
of  that  time,  by  the  payment  of  another  fee,  you  can 
have  your  permit  extended  to  sixty  or  ninety  days. 
Should  you  wish  to  remain  longer  on  the  island,  it 
will  be  necessary  to  obtain  a  letter  of  domicil,  which 
can  be  procured  through  the  consul  of  the  country 
of  which  the  applicant  is  a  native. 

This  ordeal  passed,  I  breathed  more  freely.     Hav- 
ing purchased  the  freedom  of  the  city,    with  the 

3* 


66  Havana. 

evidence  in  my  pocket,  I  was  at  liberty  to  go  where 
and  when  I  pleased.  The  streets  at  the  time  were 
swarming  with  half-naked  negroes,  Creoles,  and  Spanish, 
soldiers.  In  sight  were  a  number  of  rude  carts, 
drawn  by  sleepy -looking  oxen  with  the  yokes  fastened 
to  their  horns,  and  numerous  ponderous  drays,  whose 
motive  power  was  a  diminutive  horse  or  mule.  We 
placed  our  luggage  on  one  of  these  cumbrous  vehicles, 
and  the  ladies  of  our  party  into  volantes,  with  direc- 
tions to  drive  to  the  "  Hotel  Americana."  The 
gentlemen  walked,  as  the  distance  was  short,  and  we 
were  all  desirous  to  see  as  much  as  possible  of  this 
strange-looking  city. 

We  had  not  proceeded  far  before  we  all  became 
sensible  of  a  peculiar  odor  in  the  atmosphere,  the 
exact  nature  of  which  we  could  not  then  determine ; 
but  I  have  since  learned  that  it  was  the  combined 
odor  of  garlic  and  cigar-smoke.  The  inhabitants  use 
garlic  in  some  form  at  every  meal,  and  cook  it  in  the 
open  air,  and  the  male  population  (to  say  nothing  of 
the  females)  smoke  all  the  time,  except  when  eating 
and  sleeping ;  and  it  is  said  that  many  go  to  bed  with 
a  cigar  in  their  mouths,   and  get  up  and  smoke  at 


Hotel    Americana.  67 

• 

intervals  daring  the  niglit.  One  cannot  remain  here 
long  without  discovering  that  a  cigar  is  a  sine  qua  non  in 
every  Cuban's  mouth.  It  is  his  vade  mecum,  his 
nepenthe,  his  solace  in  affliction,  and  the  companion 
of  his  happier  hours.  To  him,  it  is  not  only  a  luxury, 
but  one  of  the  necessaries  of  life,  as  indispensable  to 
his  happiness  as  is  the  exhilarating  souchong  to  an 
inhabitant  of  the  Celestial  Empire. 

At  the  Hotel  Americana  we  encountered  another 
official,  who  remained  until  we  had  delivered  up  our 
permits  to  the  proprietor  for  safe  keeping,  and  regis- 
tered our  names,  places  of  residence,  occupations,  ages, 
and  whether  benedict  or  bachelor.  This  resfistration, 
I  understand,  is  required  of  all  foreigners  who  visit 
this  island,  so  that  the  record  here  made,  may  be 
compared  with  their  passports,  which  are  retained  by 
the  authorities  until  the  owner  wishes  to  leave,  when 
it  is  given  up,  and  another  fee  of  four  or  five  dollars 
exacted,  compelling  us  to  pay  an  export  as  well  as  an 
import  duty. 

This  hotel  being  nearly  full  when  we  arrived,  Mr. 
Wolcott  the  proprietor  was  able  to  accommodate 
but  a  few  of  our  jjarty,  and  they  had  to  take  up  with 


68  Havana. 

miserable   rooms.     After  breakfast   I   went   out   in 
search  of  other  quarters.     Every  posdda  that  I  visited, 
was  full,  or  the  rooms  so  very  uncomfortable  that 
I  would  not  engage  them,  and  I  was  about  giving  up 
in  despair,  when  I  met  an  American  friend  who  was 
stopping  at  the  Hotel  Kevere.     I  returned  with  him, 
and  secured  a  room,  or  part  of  a  room,  at  that  hotel, 
the  apartments  being  so  large  that  two  or  three,  and 
sometimes  a  greater  number  of  persons  occupy  the 
same  room.     I  was  glad  to  find  accommodations  any- 
where, for  I  was  tired  of  wandering  about  this  strange 
city,  with  its  confusion  of  tongues,  in  pursuit  of  "  a 
local    habitation."     My    morning's    experience   had 
taught  me  the  folly  of  being  super-fastidious,   and 
I  made  up  my  mind  to  be  satisfied  with  such  accom- 
modations as  I  could  get.     I  was  disposed  to  adopt  the 
language  of  the  philosophic.  Touchstone  in  the  play 
of  "As  you  Like  it,"  and  mentally  exclaimed,  "Ay, 
now  am  I  in  Cuba  f     The  more  fool  I.     When  I  was 
at  home,  I  was  in  a  better  23lace  ;  but  travellers  must 
be  content." 

The  Hotel  Eevere  is  much  larger  than  Wolcott's, 
but  was  not  well  kept.     The  rooms  are  more  capa- 


Cuban  Cookery.  69 

cious  and  better  ventilated,  but  its  larder  is  not  as 
well   stocked,    and   the   cuisine   is  more  exclusively 
Spanish.     The  table  is  not  such  as  would  be  tolerated 
in  our  country,   as  nearly  all  the  viands  are  badly 
cooked,    and   taste  as   well  as    "  smell  of  Havana." 
The  butter  is  not  only  odions,  but  odorous ;  I  smelt  it 
once,  and  ever  since  have  had  it  removed  as  far  from 
my  olfactory  organs  as  possible.     I  have  no  desire  to 
repeat  the  experiment.     Most  of  the  food  is  particu- 
larly unsavory  to  me,  as  garlic  is  an  ingredient   of 
nearly  every  dish.     The  meats  are  evidently  cooked 
in  rancid  butter  or  grease,  and  many  of  the  vegetables 
fried  or  compounded  with   something   that   renders 
them  extremely  unpalatable.     Their  bread — a  kind 
of  French  twist — is  excellent;  consequently,  I  lean 
upon  that  "  staff  of  life,"  assisted   by   a  few   other 
edibles,    such   as  eggs,    fried    plantains,    and   sweet- 
potatoes,  with  a  dessert  of  tropical  fruit.     As  a  beve- 
rage, I  use  water,  and  a  light,  sour  native  wine,  which, 
though  not  very  delicious,  is  infinitely  more  palatable 
to  me  than  their  coffee  or  tea.     Good  coffee  and  cho- 
colate can,  however,  be  obtained  at  some  of  the  restau- 
rants, and  several  of  our  boarders,  who  are  extra va- 


yo  Havana. 

gantlj  fond  of  these  beverages,  take  their  matutinal 
meal  at  the  Dominica,  a  popular  restaurant  near  by. 

La  Dominica  is  on  the  Plaza,  near  the  captain- 
general's  residence,  and  is  the  fashionable  lounging- 
place  for  citizens  as  well  as  strangers.  A  crowd  of 
people,  representatives  of  many  different  nations, 
assemble  here  during  the  evening  to  smoke  their 
cigars  and  to  discuss  the  news  of  the  day  over  a 
cooling  sherbet,  or  some  of  the  delicious  ices  for 
which  this  place  is  celebrated.  As  early  as  nine 
o'clock  all  the  marble  tables  are  occupied,  and  so 
many  different  languages  spoken  by  the  occupants 
that  a  sort  of  Babel-like  confusion  reigns.  The 
waiters  respond  to  your  signals  with  alacrity,  and  if 
you  have  learnt  enough  Spanish  to  make  your  wants 
known,  you  will  be  served  immediately.  If  you 
wish  to  light  your  cigar,  you  have  but  to  ejaculate 
"  candelaP''  (fire),  and  a  servant  is  at  your  elbow  with 
a  small  silver  brasier  containing  live-coals,  which  he 
places  on  the  marble  table  before  you,  and  departs  to 
execute  some  other  order.  As  the  evening  wanes  the 
air  becomes  strongly  impregnated  with  the  odor  of 
cigars,    which   might  be   disagreeable   to   those  not 


Tariff  of  Prices.  71 

partial  to  the  narcotic  perfume,  were  it  not  that  the 
spray  from  a  tiny  fountain  in  the  room  is  diffused 
through  the  cigar-scented  atmosphere,  purifying  and 
rendering  it  delightfully  cool  and  agreeable.  Costa 
and  Co.,  the  proprietors  of  this  Ca/e,  deal  extensively 
in  conserves  and  sweetmeats  ;  their  guava  jellies  and 
marmalades  are  nicely  put  up  in  boxes  for  exportation, 
and  sent  to  all  parts  of  Europe  and  the  United  States. 
I  learn  on  inquiry  that  nearly  every  article  of 
consumption,  with  the  exception  of  sugars,  cigars,  and 
tropical  fruits,  is  dearer  here  than  with  us.  Beef,  mut- 
ton, and  pork,  are  about  twenty-five  cents  a  pound. 
Fish  and  fowls  are  equally  dear,  especially  in  Havana; 
the  first  being  a  government  monopoly,  and  the 
supply  of  the  other  not  being  equal  to  the  demand. 
The  duty  on  foreign  flour  is  so  great  as  to  be  almost 
equivalent  to  a  prohibition  ;  nearly  all  that  is  used 
here  comes  from  the  mother  country,  and  is  exorbi- 
tantly high.  The  price  of  board  at  the  different 
hotels  in  Havana  is  from  three  to  four  dollars  a  day. 
So  flir  as  my  experience  goes,  the  fare  and  accom- 
modations are  execrable ;  and  were  payment  refused, 
a  valid  defence  would  be  no  value  received. 


^2  Havana. 

The    Hotel    Kevere,    as   some  one  has   quaintly 
remarked,  is  in  appearance  a  Moorish  palace,  in  dis- 
comfort a  German  boarding-house,  in  expense  a  Bond 
street  hotel.     It  was  once  the  private  residence  of  the 
Marquis  de  Cardenas,  a  wealthy  Spanish  nobleman, 
who  lived  here  for  a  time  in  almost  regal  splendor ; 
but  he  became  dissipated,  squandered  his  property,  and 
was  finally  obliged  to  give  up  this   establishment. 
It  is  now  held  by  the  Captain-General,  who  is  the 
ostensible  owner,  although  it  is  said  that  the  rents  go 
to  the  support  of  the  marquis,  who  is  still  living.     I 
occupy  a  large  double-bedded  room  with  one  immense 
window  opening  into  the  street,  from  the  balcony  of 
which  I  can  almost  pluck  the  rich  golden  oranges 
from  the  well-filled  panniers  of  the  vender  of  fruit, 
as  he  rides  along  the  narrow  street  beneath  perched 
on  the  rump  of  his  patient  mule.     Dropping  a  real 
(a  shilling)  into  the  extended  hand  of  the   dealer, 
I  am  the  grateful  recipient  of  a  hatful  of  this  deli- 
cious tropical  fruit  for  my  early-morning  repast. 

M}^  room-mate  is  a  veritable  Yankee,  from  the 
lumber  district  of  Maine,  who  is  here  negotiating  the 
sale  of  several  cargoes  of  sugar  hogsheads  and  boxes 


High-Priced  Cigars.  73 

manufactured  in  that  State.  He  is  quite  an  agree- 
able companion,  and  decidedly  an  acquisition  to  my 
society,  possessing  as  he  does  a  fund  of  good-humor 
and  good  sense,  and  speaking  "  broken  Spanish" 
sufficiently  well  to  be  my  interpreter  when  required. 
He  is  well  "posted"  in  politics,  pine-lumber,  and 
cigars.  As  a  connoisseur  of  "  the  weed,"  he  prefers 
that  grown  on  a  certain  plantation  in  the  Abajo 
district,  and  pronounces  Cabana's  celebrated  two- 
hundred-and-fifty-dollars  a  thousand  cigars  an  expen- 
sive humbug,  and  only  purchased  by  "  fools  of 
quality,"  and  those  having  more  money  than  brains. 
These  high-priced  cigars  are  called  Napoleons,  and 
are  purchased  only  by  foreigners,  who  are  not  gene- 
rally aware  that  in  Cuba  the  price  of  an  article  is  not 
always  regulated  by  the  quality.  These  cigars  are 
about  six  inches  long,  uniform  in  size,  and  as  perfect 
in  shape  as  if  they  were  turned  in  a  lathe.  In 
quality,  they  arc  but  little,  if  any,  better  than  some 
brands  that  can  be  purchased  for  sixty  dollars.  The 
quantity  of  tobacco  used  in  their  manufacture,  and 
the  care  necessary  in  selecting  and  preparing  the 
outside  wrappers — which  are  all  of  a  color  and  free 


74  Havana. 

from  imperfections — are  the  reasons  assigned  for  the 
extravagant  price  asked  for  tliem.  A  gold  medal 
was  awarded  to  Cabana  for  the  best  cigars  exhibited 
at  the  last  Paris  exhibition  ;  since  which  time  his 
orders  from  Europe  have  increased  to  such  an  extent, 
notwithstanding  his  exorbitant  prices,  that  he  is 
rapidly  accumulating  a  fortune. 

The  few  days  that  I  have  been  here  have  passed 
very  pleasantly,  as  most  of  my  time  is  occupied  in 
sight-seeing;  but  the  nights  are  not  without  their 
discomforts  and  annoyances.  The  ill  arranged  mos- 
quito bar  attached  to  my  cot  does  not  entirely  ex- 
clude those  phlebotomizing  insects ;  and  the  window 
being  destitute  of  glass  and  shutters,  there  is  nothing 
to  keep  out  the  ''  voices  of  the  night,"  which  at  times 
are  not  very  somnus-inspiring.  The  clocks  of  the 
neighboring  churches  strike  quarter-hourly,  and  as 
the  sound  dies  away,  the  watchmen  in  the  streets 
(and  there  is  one  stationed  under  my  window),  with 
a  shrill,  lugubrious  cry,  announce  the  hour.  This 
peculiar  cry,  so  distinct  and  ear-piercing,  seriously 
disturbs  my  slumbers ;  but  I  presume  that  as  I  be- 
come more  accustomed  to  the  sound,  it  will  be  less 


Serenos.  75 

annoying.  These  "  guardians  of  the  night"  are 
called  serenos.  They  carry  with  them  a  lantern,  a 
long  spear,  and  a  brace  of  pistols,  and  cry  the  time 
of  night  with  a  prolonged  musical  repetition  of  the 
syllables,  usually  commencing  with  the  name  of  the 
Holy  Virgin,  and  ending  with  the  word  sereno-o-o 
long  drawn  out,  to  let  the  sleepers  know  how  quiet 
and  serene  are  the  heavens  above  them.  Sereno  is  a 
Spanish  word,  and  belongs  to  two  different  parts  of 
speech,  each  having  a  distinct  and  different  significa- 
tion. "When  used  as  a  substantive,  it  signifies  a 
night-watch,  while  the  literal  interpretation  of  the 
adjective,  is  quiet,  mild,  serene.     *    *     ^ 


LETTER    YII.  ' 

Havana,  March,  1856. 

It  is  now  about  two  weeks  since  I  first  landed 
upon  these  shores,  and  during  that  brief  period  I 
have  seen  so  much,  have  witnessed  so  many  strange 
scenes,  that  I  can  hardly  realize  that  so  short  a  time 
has  elapsed.  It  has  been  an  eventful  fortnight  to  me, 
as  well  as  an  industrious  one  ;  for  I  have  devoted  all 
of  my  available  time  to  sight-seeing,  and  have  accom- 
plished as  much  already  as  most  tourists  would 
during  an  entire  season. 

In  my  last  letter,  I  gave  a  brief  description  of  the 
harbor  of  Havana,  its  fortifications  and  defences, 
together  with  my  first  impressions  of  the  city  and  its 
inhabitants.  These  impressions  were  of  course  desul- 
tory, being  formed  from  a  limited  acquaintance  with 
a  few  of  the  principal  streets  intra  muros  (within  the 


The  City  Proper.  77 

walls).  Since  that  time  I  have  become  famihar 
with  the  entire  city  from  Costa  del  Norte  to  the  ex- 
treme southern  limits ;  and  from  the  waters  of  the 
Baliia  de  la  Rahana  on  the  east,  to  the  crowning 
heights  of  "Castle  Principe"  on  the  west.  I  have 
seen  the  city  in  all  its  phases :  at  break  of  day,  in 
the  heat  and  glare  of  a  meridian  sun,  at  dusky 
twilight,  and  in  the  full  blaze  of  gas-light;  have 
lost  my  way  while  wandering  through  its  laby- 
rinthine streets,  and  had  a  narrow  escape  from  a 
douche  and  "  a  flowing  sea,"  while  clambering  over 
the  rocky  beach  at  the  base  of  La  Punta,  in  search 
of  shells  and  specimens. 

The  city  proper  contains  about  one  third  of  the 
entire  population,  and  is  separated  from  the  suburbs 
by  a  high  wall  and  moat,  which  extends,  in  an  ellip- 
tical course,  from  the  mouth  of  the  harbor  to  the 
southern  limits  of  the  bay.  At  the  terminus  of 
several  of  the  principal  streets  are  enormous  gate- 
ways guarded  by  Spanish  soldiers,  whose  duty  it  is 
to  challenge  all  strangers  who  pass  through.  But  I 
repeatedly  passed  and  repassed  without  being  chal- 
lenged, or  even  noticed  by  the  automatic  sentinels, 


j8  Havana. 

wlio  are  evidently  stationed  there  more  for  military 
display  than  for  real  service. 

The  streets  of  the  city  "within  the  walls  are  so 
narrow  and  the  houses  built  so  close  to  them,  that 
they  have  more  the  appearance  of  private  lanes  than 
highways  for  travel.  Though  they  are  only  wide 
enough  to  allow  two  carriages  to  pass  each  other,  and 
to  a  stranger  that  would  seem  a  hazardous  under- 
taking, collisions  are  of  rare  occurrence.  On  each 
side  of  the  street  are  narrow  flaggings  of  stone  for 
pedestrians :  but  sidewalks  are  of  little  use  in 
this  city,  as  but  few  of  the  inhabitants  ever  walk. 
The  "  spinning  of  street-yarn,"  a  practice  so  much  in 
vogue  among  the  peripatetic  ladies  of  the  north,  is  a 
decidedly  unfashionable  pastime  here,  only  indulged 
in  by  foreigners  and  natives  of  the  poorest  class. 
The  Cuban  gentlemen  seldom  walk,  the  ladies  never, 
except  during  some  of  the  Holy-days,  when  carriages 
are  not  allowed  on  the  streets. 

The  vehicles  used  here  are  called  "  Yolantes,"  and 
are  peculiar  to  this  country.  In  shape  and  appear- 
ance they  bear  some  resemblance  to  our  old-fashioned 
one-horse  chaise,  except  that  the  wheels  of  a  volante 


Volantes.  79 

are  considerably  larger,  and  the  shafts  more  flexible 
and  nearly  twice  as  long.  The  "propelling  power" 
(a  small  native  horse  or  mule)  is  at  least  six  feet  from 
the  body  of  the  carriage,  which  is  hung  midway 
between  the  horse  and  the  axle,  imparting  to  it  an 
elastic  and  cradle-like  motion.  The  horse  is  ridden 
by  a  negro  called  a  Calesero,  w^ho  is  usually  dressed  in 
fanciful  livery,  with  immense  jack-boots  reaching  far 
above  his  knees,  and  his  sombrero  (if  he  is  fortunate 
enough  to  own  one)  is  generally  ornamented  with 
bits  of  gay  ribbon,  or  a  feather  plucked  from  the  tail 
of  some  domestic  fowl  or  bird.  A  few  of  the  more 
pretentious  volantes  have  two  horses,  one  for  the  pos- 
tillion to  ride  while  guiding  the  other  which  is 
attached  to  the  carriage.  This  is  certainly  a  humane 
and  horse-pitiable  procedure,  for  it  is  enough  that  the 
poor  little  animal  is  compelled  to  draw  a  heavy 
volante  containing  two  or  three  persons,  on  a  full 
gallop,  without  being  encumbered  with  a  heavy  pack- 
saddle  and  a  clumsy  postillion.  The  long  tails  of  the 
horses  are  braided  and  fastened  to  the  pommel  of  the 
saddle,  it  being  considered  ornamental.  It  is  at  the 
same  time  a  useful  precaution,  as  it  prevents  those 


8o  Havana. 

mercurial  appendages  from  whisking  tlie  faces  of  the 
few  pedestrians  thej  maj  encounter  in  the  narrow 
streets.  The  sidewalks  are  so  narrow  that,  when  two 
persons  meet,  one  is  obliged  to  step  into  the  street, 
and  in  so  doing  must  keep  a  sharp  look-out  to  avoid 
the  danger  of  being  brushed  against  bj  the  passing 
volantes. 

But  few  of  the  shops  and  private  residences  here 
are  above  one  story  high ;  none  that  I  have  seen 
are  more  than  two.  The  rooms  are  large  and  of 
great  height.  In  buildings  of  one  story  they  gene- 
rally extend  to  the  rafters,  which  are  painted  some 
bright  color  and  left  exposed  to  view.  There  is  but 
one  door  in  front,  which  is  sufficiently  large  to  admit 
the  passage  of  a  volante  with  its  horse  and  rider. 
The  carriage  is  usually  left  near  the  entrance,  and  is 
visible  from  the  street ;  while  the  horse  is  taken  to  an 
open  court  in  the  rear,  which  is  used  as  a  kitchen  and 
stable  conjointly.  Among  the  middle  classes  the 
volante  is  often  seen  occupying  a  place  in  the  best 
room  in  the  house ;  for  it  is  here  considered  an  indis- 
pensable appendage  to  every  household,  and  its  pos- 
session is  a  more  certain  passport  to  Cuban  "  upper- 


A  National  Weakness.  81 

ten-dom"  than  would  be  tlie  occupancy  of  ''  a  four- 
story  brown  stone  front"  in  the  fashionable  purlieus 
of  Fifth  Avenue.     Some  of  the  most  opulent  families 
have  half-a-dozen  or  more  volantes,  one  for  each  mar- 
riageable daughter.     The  greater  the  number  and  the 
more  expensive  the  equipages  the  higher  the  owner 
rises  in  the  scale  of  respectability.      Many  persons 
in  straitened  circumstances,  it  is   said,  practise   the 
most  rigid  economy,  and  even  debar  themselves  from 
many  of  the  luxuries  of  life,  to  enable  them  to  keep  a 
volante  and  its  necessary  accompaniments.     It  is  a 
national  weakness  which  pervades  all  classes  of  soci- 
ety from  the  titled  millionaire  to  the  humble  artisan. 
\    Nearly  all  the  buildings  here  have  a  venerable,  and, 
in  the  distance,  a  somewhat  dilapidated  appearance. 
They  are  mostly  built  of  stone  covered  with  a  species 
of  stucco,  and  colored  to  suit  the  taste  of  the  owner  or 
occupant.     One  story  may  be  blue,  the  other  yellow 
or  green,   and  the  next  building  just  the  reverse. 
This  bright  and  somewhat  incongruous  combination 
of  colors  would  be  apt  to  produce  a  dazzling  and 
unpleasant  effect  on  the  eye  were  it  not  that  the  cli- 
mate and  tlie  proximity  of  the  ocean  soon  destroy 


82  Havana. 

the  lustre  of  the  paint,  and  impart  to  the  buildings 
a  faded  and  time-worn  appearance.  Ig  buildings  of 
two  stories,  the  first  floor  is  generally  used  as  a  shop 
or  warehouse,  and  in  some  instances  as  a  stable, 
while  the  floor  above  is  occupied  as  a  hotel  or  private 
residence.  Many  of  the  wealthy  merchants  here  live 
and  do  business  under  the  same  roof.  The  first  story 
of  the  Captain-General's  Palace,  on  the  Plaza,  is  now 
occupied  by  shop-keepers,  and  you  can  buy  a  cup  of 
coffee  and  a  cigar  in  a  saloon  under  the  drawing-room 
of  her  Excellency  Madame  Concha,  or  have  your 
horse  shod  or  your  own  shoes  repaired  beneath  the 
roof  of  some  of  the  most  aristocratic  of  the  Cuban 
nobility. 

A  brief  description  of  the  Hotel  Kevere,  which  was 
once  the  residence  of  a  Spanish  nobleman,  will  give 
some  idea  of  the  construction  and  arrangement  of  the 
best  buildino^s  in  Havana.  It  is  two  stories  hi  eh,  with 
a  plain,  unpretending  fa9ade,  and  only  distinguishable 
from  some  of  the  adjacent  buildings  by  its  numerous 
balconied  windows  on  the  second  floor.  The  only 
entrance  from  the  street  is  through  a  capacious  door- 
way, almost  large  enough  to   admit  two  carriages 


A  Nobleman's  Residence.  83 

abreast.     Its   ponderous  double  doors  studded  with 
inuumerabl*4  bolts  of  iron,   and  otherwise   rendered 
burglar-proof,    are   seldom   closed    except   at  night. 
Within  this  doorway  you  will  commonly  see  one  or 
more  volantes,  also  the  bed  and  table  of  the  porter, 
who  remains  there  night  and  day.     lie  is  usually 
engaged  during  the  intervals  between  sleeping  and 
eating  in  making  cigarettos,  repairing  garments,  or 
^  some   other   light   mechanical   occupation.      At   the 
further  end  of  this  hall,  or  passage,  is  an  open  court, 
w^here  you  will  find  the  atmosphere  impregnated  with 
a  peculiar  odor.     Olfactory  organs  naturally   acute, 
with  nice  powers  of  discrimination,  will  soon  discover 
it  to  be  a  combination  of  garlic,   cigar-smoke,  and 
offal.     I  will  here  say  in  explanation,  that  within  this 
area  of  a  few  square  rods  several  horses  are  stabled 
at  night  and  during  the  heat  of  the  day.     Near  by, 
and  within  smelling  distance,  is  the  kitchen  and  culi- 
nary department,  where  garlic  is  cooked  at  least  twice 
a  day,  and  is  an  ingredient  in  nearly  every  dish  set 
upon  the  table.     While  here,  there,  and  everywhere, 
may  be  seen  the  smoke  arising  from  the  ubiquitous 
cigar,  in  the  mouths  of  landlord,  guest,  cook,  scullion, 


84  Havana. 

and  groom  ;  for  everything  here  pertaining  to  huma- 
nity, whether  it  be  high  or  low.  rich  or  poor,  bond  or 
free,  is,  to  some  extent,  a  consumer  of  the  universal 
"  weed." 

We  next  ascend  a  broad  flight  of  stone  steps  to  a 
long  open  corridor  or  gallery,  which  is  used  as  a 
dining-room  and  public  promenade.  At  one  end  of 
this  corridor  is  the  parlor,  at  the  other  the  kitchen ; 
and  between  the  two,  at  regular  intervals,  are  doors 
leading  to  the  principal  apartments,  which  are  used  as 
lodging-rooms,  and  now  occupied  by  guests.  These 
rooms  all  open  into  each  other,  and  are  large,  airy, 
and  would  be  very  pleasant  were  they  not  so  poorly 
furnished.  A  small  cot-bedstead  in  each  corner  of 
the  room,  a  tiny  wash-stand,  and  two  or  three  cane- 
bottomed  chairs,  are  about  all  the  furniture  they  con- 
tain. The  floors  are  of  tile,  with  a  small  bit  of  carpet 
spread  by  the  side  of  each  cot,  the  heat  of  the  cli- 
mate rendering  wooden  floors  and  carpets  uncomforta- 
ble. The  rooms  below  us,  on  the  ground  floor,  are 
used  as  shops  and  warehouses,  and  have  no  commu- 
nication in  any  way  with  this  hotel. 
.    In  buildings  of  one  story,  the  windows  are  gene- 


Tropical  Beauties.  8j 

rally  about  half  the  size  of  the  room,  and  nearly  on 
a  level  with  the  street,  for  the  purpose  of  admitting 
as  much  air  as  possible.  In  the  place  of  sash  and 
glass  are  heavy  iron  gratings,  which  give  to  the 
building  very  much  the  appearance  of  a  prison. 
Usually  there  are  light  curtains  or  wooden  shutters 
on  the  inside,  but  these  being  seldom  closed,  the  liv- 
ing room  and  family  group  are  visible  to  the  passer- 
by, who  is  at  liberty  to  stop  and  gaze  within  as  long 
as  he  chooses,  without  exciting  notice  or  remark  from 
the  occupants.  In  fact,  the  Cuban  ladies  seem  to  be 
rather  flattered  than  otherwise  by  such  attentions 
from  strangers,  which  they  construe  into  evidences 
of  admiration. 

Much  has  been  said  and  written  of  an  extravagant 
nature  about  the  beauty  of  the  Cuban  ladies.  They 
are  beautiful,  if  dark,  dreamy  eyes,  luji:uriant  hair, 
and  magnificent  busts  alone  constitute  beauty.  But 
I  confess  my  disappointment  in  these  Creole  beauties 
— these  troj^ical  houris,  whose  praises  have  so  often 
been  celebrated  in  poesy  and  in  song.  Theirs  is  an 
external  beauty — the  perfection  of  form  and  feature, 
without    the    charm    of    modesty    and    refinement. 


86  Havana. 

qualities  so  essential  in  the  female  cliaracter.    Vanity 
is  evidently  one  of  their  petty  foibles,  and  coquetry 
one  of  their  most  prominent  characteristics  ;  and  no- 
where is  there  a  better  opportunity  for  displaying 
these  peculiar  traits  than  in  church.     When  in  the 
act  of  kneeling,  many  of  them  take  especial  pains 
to    arrange    their    dresses    becomingly,    and    place 
their  jewelled  hands  where  they  will  show  to  the  best 
possible  advantage ;  and  when  apparently  absorbed 
in  their  devotions,  you  will  occasionally  see  one  ply- 
ing the   telegraphic   fan,    or   exchanging  tokens   of 
recognition  with  some  favorite  senor  in  another  part 
of  the  building.      It  is  a  noticeable  fact  that  the 
Cuban  ladies  have  the  art  of  wielding  the  fan  with  a 
grace  and  dexterity   unsurpassed  by  any  nation  in 
the   world.      They  are  initiated  into  its  coquettish 
mysteries  during  their  youth,  and,  when  they  are 
grown  up,  it  becomes  in  their  hands  the  very  perfec- 
tion of  acting,  and  the  language  they  impart  to  its 
use  is   an   expressive   pantomime   that   requires   no 
interpretation. 

Among  the  many  churches  and  other  public  build- 
ings in  this  papal  city,  none  have  more  interesting 


The  Cathedral.  87 

associations  connected  with  them  than  the  cathedral, 
a  large  and  oddly  constructed  building,  whose  mas- 
sive walls  and  turrets  are  grey  with  age  and  crumbhng 
with  deca}^  Within  this  venerable  church  repose 
the  remains  of  the  great  discoverer,  Christopher 
Columbus.  The  coffin  containing  his  revered  ashes  is 
inclosed  in  the  wall  near  one  of  the  principal  altars, 
and  the  chain  with  which  an  ungrateful  monarch 
once  bound  him,  is  said  to  be  preserved  here,  but  is 
not  shown  to  visitors.  Among  the  paintings  in  this 
church,  is  one  representing  the  solemn  celebration 
of  the  mass  previous  to  the  departure  of  Colum- 
bus on  his  first  expedition  in  search  of  a  new 
world.  Many  of  the  paintings  are  quite  large,  and 
are  said  to  be  the  productions  of  the  old  masters ; 
but  they  were  suspended  so  high  on  the  walls,  that  I 
was  unable,  on  account  of  near-sightedness,  to  give 
them  a  critical  examination. 

As  the  cathedral  is  not  far  distant  from  my  hotel, 
and  is  open  at  all  hours  of  the  day,  I  visit  it  quite 
often.  The  music  is  sometimes  exceedingly  fine,  and 
some  of  the  services  quite  impressive ;  but  many  of 
the  forms  and  ceremonies  are  so  senseless  and  appa- 


88  Havana. 

rently  soulless^  and  the  pageantry  so  extremely  ridicu- 
lous, that  it  cannot  fail  to  excite  in  the  bosom  of 
every  true  Protestant  miugled  feelings  of  pity  and 
disgust.  The  congregation  is  usually  composed  of 
all  grades,  colors,  and  sexes;  but  a  majority  are 
ladies,  apparently  of  the  best  classes,  who  assume  the 
most  devout  attitudes,  and  remain  the  lono^est  time  at 
their  devotions.  Many  of  the  men  (particularly 
among  the  laboring  classes)  merely  come  within  the 
door,  drop  on  one  knee,  with  their  faces  turned 
towards  the  principal  altar,  and  utter  a  short,  but 
scarcely  audible  prayer.  AVhen  this  is  finished,  they 
dip  a  finger  in  the  consecrated  water,  make  a  sign  of 
the  cross  on  their  foreheads,  and  glide  out  as  noise- 
lessly as  they  came  in.  None  of  the  churches  that  I 
have  visited  contain  any  pews,  and  only  an  occasional 
seat  near  the  wall;  so  that. all  who  come  thereto 
worship  must  kneel  or  stand.  It  is  a  beautiful  sight 
to  see  several  hundred  senoras  and  senoritas  kneeling 
or  half  reclining  on  showy  mats  or  bits  of  gay  carpet, 
their  necks  and  arms  bare,  and  often  resplendent 
with  jewels  ;  their  dark  glossy  hair  ornamented  with 
pearls  or  flowers,  and  their  exquisitely  wrought  fans, 


Rags  and  Jewels.  89 

inlaid  -^dth  gold  and  precious  stones,  "  glittering  in 
their  hands  like  so  many  butterflies." 

Each  lady,  as  she  enters  the  church,  is  accompa- 
nied by  her  sable  calesero^  or  footman,  carrying  in  his 
arms  a  rich  rug  or  elaborately  embroidered  stool,  for 
his  mistress  to  kneel  or  sit  upon  ;  and  he  usually 
remains  standing  or  kneeling  by  her  side  during  the 
service.  Soon,  mendicant  women,  old,  decrepid,  and 
of  all  colors,  crowd  their  way  in  and  kneel  among 
the  interstices  of  the  richly  rugged  floor,  apparently 
without  annoyance  to  their  fair  neighbors.  There 
were  black  and  w^hite,  old  and  young,  rich  and  poor, 
bond  and  free,  all  kneeling  side  by  side.  I  was,  I 
must  confess,  considerably  surprised  at  this  apparent 
willingness  of  these  high-born  dames  to  amalgamate 
with  those  of  low  degree.  It  is  true,  we  are  promised 
such  things  hereafter ;  but  this  bringing  of  rags  and 
jewels — the  lustre  of  ebony  and  the  brilliancy  of 
pearl — into  such  close  proximity  here  below^  is  more 
than  was  ever  "  dreamed  of  in  my  philosophy,"  and 
something  that  I  did  not  suppose  would  ever  occur 
in  this  world  of  sinful  fastidiousness.     Military  mass 

is  celebrated  in  some  of  the  churches  every  morning 

4* 


90 


Havana. 


at  six  o'clock,  and  one  or  more  companies  of  soldiers, 
with  their  officers,  are  always  in  attendance.  It  is  a 
curious  sight  to  see  one  or  two  hundred  soldiers,  with 
bristling  bayonets  and  gleaming  swords,  come  march- 
ing into  church  to  the  tap  of  the  drum,  and  array 
themselves  in  "  serried  files  "  as  if  with  hostile  intent. 
But  there  is  nothing  in  their  manner  to  inspire  the 
spectator  with  devotional  feelings.  They  go  through 
all  the  multifarious  forms  and  ceremonies  with  a  kind 
of  automatic  precision,  as  if  they  regarded  it  as  a  mili- 
tary rather  than  a  religious  duty. 


LET  TEE    YIII. 

Havana,  March,  1856. 
The  Habaueros  are  a  peculiar  people.  Many  of 
their  habits  and  customs  are  entirely  different  from 
ours.  The  tradesmen  seldom  place  their  names  over 
their  shop  doors,  but  adopt  a  sign  either  poetical  or 
fanciful,  such  as  "  La  Favorita,"  "  La  Moda,"  "  El 
Sol,"  "Belle  de  Cuba."  Sometimes  they  are  more 
ludicrous  than  poetical.  For  instance,  "  El  Pobre 
Diablo"  (the  poor  devil)  is  the  name  of  a  popular 
dry-goods  store  in  the  Calle  del  Ohispo.  The  Cuban 
ladies  usually  make  their  purchases  in  the  morning; 
or  just  previous  to  their  evening  drive  on  the  Paseo. 
They  never  leave  their  volantes,  but  have  such  articles 
as  they  wish  to  examine  brought  to  them  by  the 
shop-keeper  or  his  clerks,  it  being  considered  as  direct 
a  violation  of  the  established  rules  of  etiquette  for 


gi  Havana. 

a  'lady  to  enter  a  store,  as  to  be  seen  walking  the 
streets.  Many  of  the  ladies  here  do  their  shopping 
without  leaving  their  homes.  On  sending  word  to 
a  store,  a  clerk  is  despatched  to  the  lady's  residence 
with  a  basket  containing  such  goods  as  she  may  wish 
to  examine.  If  the  customer  is  not  suited,  the  clerk 
will  go  to  all  the  principal  stores  in  the  city,  and  pro- 
cure, if  possible,  the  article  desired.  Some  of  the 
merchants  send  each  morning  to  the  principal  hotels 
samples  of  their  most  attractive  goods  for  the  inspec- 
tion of  the  lady  boarders,  who  can,  if  they  choose, 
make  their  purchases  without  leaving  the  hotel.  This 
is  appreciated  by  those  who  are  disposed  to  conform 
to  Cuban  etiquette ;  but  most  of  the  American  ladies, 
I  observe,  are  so  unfashionable,  as  to  prefer  to  do 
their  own  shopping. 

A  singular  custom  prevails  among  the  milk-men 
"here,  as  well  as  in  other  large  towns  of  Cuba,  in  their 
mode  of  supplying  the  inhabitants  with  the  lacteal 
beverage.  They  drive  their  cow^s  and  goats  through 
the  streets  at  an  early  hour  in  the  morning,  to  be 
milked  at  the  doors  of  their  customers,  giving  to  each 
the  quantity  required  for  the  day,  warm  and  free 


Market-Men.  93 

from  adulteration.  When  all  their  customers  are 
supplied,  the  patient  animals  are  driven  home,  or 
turned  out  to  pasture  among  the  mountains.  This 
compulsory  itinerancy,  and  the  habit  of  extracting  a 
limited  quantity  of  milk  at  a  sitting,  has  an  injurious 
effect  on  the  cows,  and  they  cease  to  "give  down" 
their  milk  freely  under  this  treatment. 

The  vender  of  fruit,  vegetables,  and  other  domestic 
products,  brings  his  supplies  to  market  in  large  straw 
or  willow-panniers  slung  across  the  back  of  his  sleepy 
donkey,  whose  owner  is  often  seen  perched  upon  the 
rump  behind.  He  rides  close  up  to  the  windows  of 
the  houses,  to  give  the  mistress  or  domestic  of  the 
establishment  an  opportunity  to  examine  his  "  stock 
in  trade"  without  their  going  out  of  doors.  It  is  not 
unusual  for  a  farmer  from  the  mountain  districts  to 
come  to  town  with  a  dozen  horses  or  mules  fastened 
together  one  before  the  other,  and  loaded  with  pro- 
vender. The  horses  are  tied  each  to  the  tail  of  the 
one  preceding  it,  and  their  mouths  muzzled  so  that 
they  cannot  filch  from  their  predecessor's  load,  which 
is  in  such  tempting  proximity.  The  diminutive  ani- 
mals are  often  so  completely  hidden  under  immense 


94 


Havana. 


bundles  of  straw,  or  the  green  leaves  of  Indian  corn 
— which  is  used  here  principally  as  fodder — that  they 
look  like  so  many  "walking  stacks,"  and  in  the 
distance  present  a  novel  and  somewhat  ludicrous 
appearance.  The  horseman  who  leads  the  cavalcade 
usually  wears  a  high  pointed  sombrero,  enormous 
spurs  iipon  his  heels,  and  sometimes  carries  a  sword 
and  pistols  by  his  side.  The  latter  are  evidently 
worn  more  for  ornament  than  use,  as  these  Monteros 
are  as  fond  of  show  and  as  eccentric  in  their  tastes, 
as  some  of  the  old  Spanish  hidalgos  from  whom 
they  may  have  descended.     -5^     *     * 

Havana  is  evidently  a  place  of  considerable  busi- 
ness, yet  to  visit  its  public  promenades  and  places 
of  amusement,  one  would  suppose  all  the  inhabitants 
were  sybarites,  and  that  business  was  secondary  to 
pleasure.  In  the  morning,  before  the  heat  becomes 
oppressive,  these  places  are  frequented;  and  when 
the  sun  is  low  down  in  the  horizon,  every  street  and 
avenue  becomes  filled  with  gay  and  expensive  equi- 
pages, on  their  way  to  the  Paseo  de  Isabel,  the  fashion- 
able drive  and  promenade  estra  muros  (beyond  the 
walls).     Passing  out  at  the  Monserrate  gate  through 


Paseo  de  Isabel.  95 

an  arched  gateway  guarded  by  stupid  sentinels,  and 
over  a  deep  moat,  you  reach  this  celebrated  avenue, 
where  all  the  wealth,  fashion,  and  beauty  of  the  city 
do  congregate.  This  Paseo  extends  in  a  direct  line 
from  the  Prado  to  the  Campo  del  Ifarie^  or  military 
square,  a  distance  of  nearly  a  mile.  It  is  about  four 
hundred  feet  wide,  and  consists  of  five  separate  drives, 
running  parallel  with  each  other,  which  are  bordered 
wdth  fine  trees  and  ornamented  with  fountains  and 
statues.  As  the  day  begins  to  wane,  and  the  heat- 
laden  air  gives  place  to  soft  ocean  breezes,  this  avenue 
becomes  the  scene  of  indescribable  gaiety.  The 
numerous  walks  are  thronged  with  pedestrians; 
countless  numbers  of  volantes,  freighted  with  their 
precious  burdens,  pass  and  repass  each  other  in  rapid 
succession,  and  one  not  accustomed  to  such  a  scene, 
gazes  until  his  sight  becomes  dazzled  and  his  senses 
bewildered  by  so  much  splendor  and  magnificence. 

This  pageant  is  kept  up  until  about  eight  o'clock, 
when  the  Paseo  becomes  deserted  by  the  fashionables, 
who  repair  to  the  Plaza  de  Armas^  where  some  of  the 
fine  military  bands  play  for  an  hour  every  evening. 
This  gratuitous  performance  is  called  by  the  Cubans 


96  Havana. 

''  the  poor-man's  opera,"  and  is  extensively  patronized 
by  all  classes.  The  various  walks  in  the  Plaza  are 
thronged  with  pedestrians,  and  the  streets  surrounding 
it  filled  with  volantes ;  the  fair  occupants  being 
engaged  in  "  discussing"  a  vanilla-ice  or  cooling 
sherbet,  from  La  Dominica,  a  popular  restaurant  near 
by ;  or  in  coquetting  with  some  familiar  acquaintance, 
who  may  have  approached  their  carriage  during  the 
pauses  of  the  music.  In  the  midst  of  this  gay 
crowd  may  be  seen  Spanish  soldiers,  with  their 
bayonets  glittering  in  the  bright  moonlight,  who  are 
stationed  here,  as  well  as  in  all  other  parts  of  the 
city,  to  remind  the  people,  that  not  only  during  war, 
but  in  peace  and  while  engaged  in  innocent  recrea 
tions,  they  are  under  the  control  of  a  military  force 
that  is  omnipresent  and  all-powerful.     *     *     * 

Since  writing  you  last,  I  have  become  somewhat 
familiar  with  the  environs  of  Havana,  and  have  spent 
many  pleasant  hours  upon  the  green  sloping  hills 
which  lie  adjacent  to  the  cit}^  Castle  Principe  stands 
upon  one  of  the  highest  elevations,  and  the  view 
from  its  massive  battlements  is  one  of  the  finest  that 
I  ever  witnessed.     The  city  and  its  suburbs  lie,  as  it 


The  Bishop's  Garden.  97 

were,  ahnost  at  its  very  feet ;  and  the  land-locked  bay 
with  its  myriads  of  vessels  sleeping  on  the  tide,  as 
well  as  the  crescent-shaped  hills  beyond,  covered  with 
perennial   foliage,    are   distinctly   visible    from    this 
elevation,   and  form  a  living  picture  on  which  the 
eye  delights  to  linger.    A  pleasant  drive  is  through  the 
Tacon  Paseo  (over  a  road  as  smooth  as  a  pebbly 
beach,   and  lined  on  each  side  with  double  rows  of 
giant  palms)  to  that  romantic  suburb  known  as  the 
Cerro,   with  its  quaint  little  villas  and  unpretentious 
cottages  overburdened  with  shade,   and  redolent  of 
the  perfume  of  flowers.     Not  far  from  here  is  the 
celebrated  ''  Bishop's  Garden ;"  so  called,  from  its  once 
being  the  residence  of  the  Bishop  of  Havana.     It  is 
now  uninhabited,   and  everything  about  it  going  to 
decay.     The  house  itself  is  but  a  moss-covered  ruin, 
its  roof  having  been  torn  off"  by  a  hurricane  which 
nearly  devastated  the  island  a  few  years  since ;   and 
its  crumbling  walls  of  stone  and  stucco  are  covered 
with  moss  and  parasitical  plants.     The  walks  about 
the  grounds  are  now  choked  with  weeds ;  the  fish- 
ponds are  filled  with  stagnant  water,  and  uninhabited, 
except  by  frogs  and  slimy  reptiles ;  the  bridges  are 


98  Havana. 

decayed  ;  its  marble  statues  broken  or  displaced,  and 
covered  with  a  gangrenous  mould,  and  everything 
appertaining  to  the  place  has  the  appearance  of  deso- 
lation and  decay.  The  only  person  that  I  saw  on 
the  premises  was  a  solitary  laborer,  wdio  w^as  enga- 
ged in  cultivating  a  few  vegetables  for  the  Havana 
market. 

Nothing  that  I  have  yet  seen  in  this  city  has  inte- 
rested me  more  than  the  Pescaderia  or  fish-market ; 
and  I  would  advise  those  who  have  a  taste  for  ich- 
thyological  aesthetics,  or  a  curiosity  to  witness  eccen- 
tric combinations  of  colors,  if  they  ever  come  to 
Havana,  not  to  Ml  to  visit  this  interesting,  yet  some- 
what scaly  institution.  The  long  row^s  of  marble 
counters,  extending  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  are 
covered  every  morning  with  bright  and  shining  heaps 
of  these  ''  treasures  of  the  deep,"  which  rival  in  lustre 
the  brightest  shells  of  the  ocean,  and,  in  variety  of 
shade  and  intensity  of  color,  the  very  rainbow  itself. 
It  is  supposed  by  some,  that  the  peculiar  richness  and 
variet}^  of  color  displayed  by  these  piscatory  pheno- 
mena, are  imparted  to  them  by  the  sun  when  he  casts 
his  prismatic  bow  into  the  briny  deep.     This  theory 


The  Fish-I\rarket.  •  99 

is  sustained  by  the  interesting  fact  that  the  multitu- 
dinous tints  and  variegated   hues  of  the  rainbow  are 
here  exhibited  with  wonderful   distinctness.     Every 
conceivable  color  and  shade  is  to  be  seen  here,  from 
the  most  vivid  scarlet  and  brightest  orange,  to  the 
softest  azure  and  the  palest  green.     Incomprehensible 
nature,    in   her   moments   of  caprice,    has   strangely 
blended  and  mixed  these  various  colors,  forming  gro- 
tesque and  fanciful  pictures  for  the  eye  to  rest  upon. 
One   side  of  a  fish  may   be  blue,   and  the  other  a 
bright  scarlet  or  orange.     Another,  perhaps,    has   a 
crimson  back,  green  sides,  and  a  blue  head  or  tail 
beautifully  flecked  or  shaded  with  orange.     Others 
are  covered  with  spots  or  stripes  of  various  hues,  or 
fantastically  variegated ;  and  some  look,  a  short  dis- 
tance off,  as  if  their  sides  were  composed  of  layers  of 
silver  and  gold,   alternating  and  lapping  over  each 
other.     It  was  certainly  a  curious  sight,   and  more 
than  realized  my  expectations.     Notwithstanding  the 
waters  in  the  vicinity  swarm  with  the  "  finny  tribe," 
and  the  markets  are  abundantly  supplied,  this  species 
of  food  is  exceedingly  dear.     This  arises  from  the 
fact  of  its  being  a  government  monopoly,  and  none 


loo         •  Havana. 

but  its  agents  are  allowed  to  take  fish  from  these 
waters,  or  to  offer  them  for  sale  in  this  city. 

An  interesting  story  is  told  concerning  this  mono- 
poly, which  is  so  romantic  that  I  shall  relate  it.  A  quar- 
ter of  a  century  ago  the  coast  of  Cuba  was  infested  by  a 
band  of  smugglers  and  semi-pirates,  commanded  by 
"  a  bold  bad  man"  named  Marti,  who  was  known  as 
the  "  King  of  the  Isle  of  Pines,"  a  cluster  of  small 
islands  in  the  vicinity,  where  he  made  his  head-quar- 
ters, and  whence  he  sent  his  small,  fleet  vessels  out 
on  marauding  expeditions.  When  Tacon  first  became 
governor-general  of  Cuba  (about  the  year  1834), 
finding  that  the  revenues  of  the  island  had  become 
very  much  diminished  from  the  extensive  smuggling 
upon  the  coast,  he  determined,  if  possible,  to  put  a 
stop  to  the  nefarious  practice.  The  entire  available 
maritime  force  was  called  into  requisition,  and  armed 
vessels  coasted  night  and  day  for  months,  without  the 
least  success  against  the  smugglers.  At  last,  finding 
that  all  his  expeditions  against  them  failed,*  partly 
from  the  adroitness  and  bravery  of  the  smugglers, 
and  partly  from  the  want  of  pilots  among  the  shoals 

*  See  Ballou's  History  of  Cuba. 


Rovers  of  the  Gulf.  loi 

and  rocks  that  they  frequented,  a  large  and  tempting 
reward  was  offered  to  any  one  who  would  desert  from 
his  comrades  and  act  in  this  capacity  in  behalf  of  the 
government.  At  the  same  time,  a  double  sum,  most 
princely  in  amount,  was  offered  for  the  person  of 
Marti  the  leader,  dead  or  live.  These  rewards  were 
freely  promulgated,  and  posted  so  as  to  reach  the  ears 
and  eyes  of  those  whom  they  concerned ;  but  even 
these  seemed  to  produce  no  effect,  and  the  government 
officers  were  at  a  loss  how  to  proceed  in  the  matter. 

"It  was  a  dark,  cloudy  night  in  Havana,  sqpie 
three  or  four  months  subsequent  to  the  issuing  of 
these  placards  announcing  the  reward  as  referred  to, 
when  two  sentinels  were  pacing  backwards  and  for- 
wards before  the  main  entrance  to  the  governor's 
palace,  just  opposite  the  grand  plaza.  A  little  before 
midnight,  a  man,  wrapped  in  a  cloak,  was  watching 
them  from  behind  the  statue  of  Ferdinand,  near  the 
fountain ;  and,  after  observing  that  the  two  soldiers 
acting  as  sentinels  paced  their  brief  walk  so  as  to 
meet  each  other,  and  then  turn  their  backs  as  they 
separated,  leaving  a  brief  moment  in  the  interval 
when  the  eyes  of  both  were  turned  away  from  the 


102  Havana. 

entrance  they  were  placed  to  guard,  seemed  to  cal- 
culate upon  passing  them  unobserved.  It  was  an 
exceedingly  delicate  manoeuvre,  and  required  great 
care  and  dexterity  to  effect  it;  but,  at  last,  it  was 
adroitly  done,  and  the  stranger  sprang  lightly  through 
the  entrance,  secreting  himself  behind  one  of  the  pil- 
lars in  the  inner  court  of  the  palace.  The  sentinels 
paced  on  undisturbed. 

''  The  figure  which  had  thus  stealthily  effected  an 
entrance,  now  sought  the  broad  stairs  that  led  to  the 
governor's  suite  of  apartments,  with  a  confidence 
that  evinced  a  perfect  knowledge  of  the  place.  A 
second  guard-post  was  to  be  passed  at  the  head  of 
the  stairs;  but,  assuming  an  air  of  authority,  the 
stranger  offered  a  cold  military  salute  and  pressed 
forward,  as  though  there  was  not  the  most  distant 
question  of  his  right  so  to  do ;  and  thus  avoiding  all 
suspicion  in  the  guard's  mind,  he  boldly  entered  the 
governor's  reception-room  unchallenged,  and  closed 
the  door  behind  him.  In  a  large  easy  chair  sat  the 
commander-in-chief,  busily  engaged  in  writing,  but 
alone.  An  expression  of  undisguised  satisfaction 
passed  across  the  weather-beaten  countenance  of  the 


Marti,  the  Smuggler.  103 

new-comer  at  this  state  of  affairs,  as  he  eoolly 
laid  aside  his  cloak  and  proceeded  to  wipe  the 
perspiration  from  his  face.  The  governor,  looking 
up  with  surprise,  fixed  his  keen  eyes  upon  the 
intruder. 

"  '  Who  enters  here,  unannounced,  at  this  hour?  ' 
he  asked,  sternly,  while  he  regarded  the  stranger 
earnestly. 

" '  One  who  has  information  of  value  for  the 
governor-general.     You  are  Tacon,  I  suppose  ?  ' 

"'lam.  "What  would  you  with  me?  or,  rather, 
how  did  you  j)ass  my  guard  unchallenged  ? ' 

"  '  Of  that  anon.  Excellency,  you  have  offered  a 
reward  for  information  concerning  the  rovers  of  the 
gulf?  ' 

"'Ha!  yes.  What  of  them  ?  '  said  Tacon  with 
undisguised  interest. 

" '  Excellency,  I  must  speak  with  caution,'  con- 
tinued the  new  comer ;  '  otherwise  I  may  condemn 
and  sacrifice  myself.' 

"  '  You  have  naught  to  fear  on  that  head.  The 
offer  of  reward  for  evidence  against  the  scapegraces 
also  vouchsafes  a  pardon  to  the  informant.    You  may 


104  Havana. 

speak  on,  without  fear  for  yourself,  even  though  you 
may  be  one  of  the  very  confederation  itself.' 

"  '  You  offer  a  reward,  also,  in  addition  for  the  dis- 
covery of  Marti — Captain  Marti,  of  the  smugglers — 
do  you  not  ?  ' 

"  '  "We  do,  and  will  gladly  make  good  the  promise 
of  reward  for  any  information  upon  the  subject,' 
replied  Tacon. 

"  '  First,  Excellency,  do  you  give  me  your  knightly 
word  that  you  will  grant  a  free  pardon  to  ?ne,  if  I 
reveal  all  that  you  require  to  know,  even  embracing 
the  most  secret  hiding-places  of  the  rovers  ?  ' 

"  '  I  pledge  you  my  word  of  honor,'  said  the  com- 
mander. 

"  *  No  matter  how  heinous  in  the  sisrht  of  the  law 
my  offences  may  have  been,  still  you  will  pardon  me, 
under  the  king's  seal  ?  ' 

"  *  I  will,  if  you  will  reveal  truly  and  to  any  good 
purpose,'  answered  Tacon,  weighing  in  his  mind  the 
object  of  all  this  precaution. 

"  '  Even  if  I  were  a  leader  among  the  rovers  my- 
self? ' 

"  The  governor  hesitated  for  a  moment,  canvassing 


Marti,  the  Smuggler.  105 

in  a  single  glance  the  subject  before  him,  and  then 
said : 

*' '  Even  then,  be  you  whom  you  may ;  if  you  are 
able,  and  will  honestly  pilot  our  ships  and  reveal  the 
secrets  of  Marti  and  his  followers,  you  shall  be 
rewarded  as  our  proffer  sets  forth,  and  yourself 
receive  a  free  pardon." 

"  '  Excellency,  I  think  I  know  your  character  well 
enough  to  trust  you,  else  I  would  not  have  ventured 
here.' 

" '  Speak,  then ;  my  time  is  precious,'  was  the 
impatient  reply  of  Tacon. 

"  '  Then,  Excellency,  the  man  for  whom  you  have 
offered  the  largest  reward,  dead  or  alive,  is  now  before 
you ! ' 

"  '  And  you  are ' 

'"Marti!' 

"  The  governor-general  drew  back  in  astonishment, 
and  cast  his  eyes  towards  a  brace  of  pistols  that  lay 
within  his  reach ;  but  it  was  only  for  a  single  moment, 
when  he  again  assumed  entire  self-control,  and  said, — 

"  '  I  shall  keep  my  promise,  sir,  provided  you  are 
faithfal,  though  the  laws  call  loudly  for  your  punish- 


1  o6  Havana. 

ment;  and  even  now  you  are  in  ni}^  power.  To 
insure  your  faithfulness,  you  must  remain  at  present 
under  guard.' 

''  Saying  wliich,  lie  rang  a  silver  bell  by  Lis  side, 
and  issued  a  verbal  order  to  the  attendant  who 
answered  it.  Immediately  after,  the  officer  of  the 
■watch  entered,  and  Marti  was  placed  in  confinement, 
•with  orders  to  render  him  comfortable  until  he  was 
sent  for.  His  name  remained  a  secret  with  the  com- 
mander :  and  thus  the  night  scene  closed. 

"  On  the  following  day,  one  of  the  men-of-war  that 
lay  idly  beneath  the  guns  of  Moro  Castle,  suddenly 
became  the  scene  of  the  utmost  activity,  and,  before 
noon,  had  weighed  her  anchor,  and  was  standing  out 
into  the  Gulf  Stream.  Marti,  the  smuggler,  was  on 
board,  as  her  pilot :  and  fliithfully  did  he  guide  the 
ship,  in  the  discharge  of  his  treacherous  business, 
among  the  shoals  and  bays  of  the  coast  for  nearly  a 
month,  revealing  ever}^  secret  haunt  of  the  rovers, 
exposing  their  most  valuable  depots  and  well  selected 
rendezvous ;  and  many  a  smuggling  craft  was  taken 
and  destroyed.  The  amount  of  money  and  property 
thus  secured  was  very  great;   and    Marti   returned 


Marti,  the  Smuggler.  107 

with  the  ship  to  claim  his  reward  from  the  governor- 
general,  who,  well  satisfied  with  the  manner  in 
which  the  rascal  had  fulfilled  his  agreement,  and  be- 
trayed those  comrades  who  were  too  faithful  to  be 
tempted  to  treachery  themselves,  summoned  Marti 
before  him. 

*'  '  As  you  have  faithfully  performed  3'our  part  of 
our  agreement,'  said  the  governor-general,  '  I  am 
now  prepared  to  comply  with  the  articles  on  my  part. 
In  this  package  you  will  find  a  free  and  unconditional 
pardon  for  all  your  offences  against  the  laws.  And 
here  is  an  order  on  the  treasurv  for ' 

"  '  Excuse  me,  Excellency.  The  pardon  I  gladly 
receive.  As  to  the  sum  of  money  you  propose  to 
give  me,  let  me  make  you  a  proposition.  Eetain  the 
money,  and  in  place  of  it,  guarantee  me  the  right  to 
fish  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  city,  and  declare  the 
trade  in  fish  contraband  to  all  except  my  agents. 
This  will  richly  repay  me,  and  I  will  erect  a  public 
market  of  stone  at  my  own  expense,  which  shall  be 
an  ornament  to  the  city,  and  which  at  the  expiration 
of  a  specified  number  of  years  shall  revert  to  the 
government,  with  all  right  and  title  to  the  fishery.' 


io8  Havana. 

"  Tacon  was  pleased  at  tlie  idea  of  a  superb  fish- 
market,  which  should  eventually  revert  to  the  govern- 
ment, and  also  at  the  idea  of  saving  the  large  sum  of 
money  covered  by  the  promised  reward.  The  singu- 
lar proposition  of  the  smuggler  was  duly  considered, 
and  acceded  to ;  and  Marti  was  declared  in  legal  form 
to  possess  for  the  future,  sole  right  to  fish  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  city,  or  to  sell  the  article  in  any 
form ;  and  he  at  once  assumed  the  rights  that  the 
order  guaranteed  to  him.  Having  in  his  roving  life 
learned  all  the  best  fishing-grounds,  he  furnished  the 
city  bountifully  with  the  article,  and  reaped  yearly 
an  immense  profit,  until,  at  the  close  of  the  period  for 
which  the  monopoly  was  granted,  he  was  the  richest 
man  on  the  island.  According  to  the  agreement,  the 
fine  market  and  its  privileges  reverted  to  the  govern- 
ment at  the  time  specified,  and  the  monopoly  has 
ever  since  been  rigorously  enforced." 

Many  romantic  stories  are  told  of  Marti ;  but  the 
one  just  related  is  the  only  one,  I  believe,  that  is 
authenticated,  and  which  has  any  connexion  with 
this  monopoly. 

To-morrow  I  expect  to  leave  for  Matanzas,  Car- 


Visit  to  the  Interior.  109 

denas,  and  other  places  in  the  interior  of  the  island. 
If  I  see  anything  of  the  "  Cuban  elephant"  during 
my  absence,  I  shall  endeavor  to  photograph  his 
"  Imperial  Majesty,"  and  will  transmit  you  a  copy 
immediately  on  my  return  to  this  city. 


LETTEE   IX. 

Havana,  March,  1856. 

During  mj  recent  excursion  into  the  country,  I 
discovered  many  new  and  attractive  features  in  Cuban 
life  and  scenery,  of  which  I  shall  ever  retain  a  pleas- 
ing remembrance.  At  the  same  time,  I  was  a  par- 
ticipator in  a  few  "  stirring  scenes,"  and  adventures 
of  a  less  agreeable  nature.  I  was  accompanied  as  far 
as  Guines — a  small  village  lying  on  the  railroad 
about  fifteen  leagues  from  the  city — by  a  party  of 
friends  on  their  way  to  an  ingenio  (pronounced 
inhanyo)  or  sugar  manufactory,  situated  a  few  miles 
from  that  station. 

The  cars  on  this  road  are  of  American  manufac- 
ture (that  is,  built  in  the  United  States),  are  drawn 
by  American-built  engines,  and  conducted  b}^  Ameri- 
can engineers.      They  are  divided  into  three  ckisses. 


Railroad  to  Guines.  ill 

The  rate  ot  fare  in  each  correspouds  with  the  luxury 
of  the  accommodations.  The  first  class  are  like  the 
ordinary  coaches  on  our  northern  railroads,  but  the 
fare  in  them  is  so  high,  that  they  are  seldom  patron- 
ized except  by  foreigners  and  wealthy  planters  when 
accompanied  by  ladies.  The  second  class  cars  have 
seats  without  cushions ;  a  covering  overhead,  but  no 
protection  at  the  sides  or  ends,  which  are  open  to  the 
winds  of  heaven,  blow  they  ever  so  roughly.  But 
as  the  weather  here  is  never  cold,  and  storms  are  of 
rare  occurrence,  these  cars  are  generally  well  filled, 
as  the  expense  is  much  less,  and  the  occupants  are 
better  able  to  see  the  country  through  which  they 
are  passing.  The  cars  of  the  third  class  are  simply 
uncovered  platforms,  for  the  transportation  of  slaves, 
coolies,  and  the  lower  order  of  the  peasantry. 

We  reached  Guines  about  nine  o'clock  A.  M.,  and 
while  breakfast  was  being  prepared  for  our  party, 

Mr.  S and  myself  called  on  the  wife  of  the  veniero 

to  show  us  the  rooms  that  we  could  occupy  on  our 
return  from  the  plantation  that  night.  Being  busy  at 
the  time  with  her  matutinal  preparations,  our  dark- 
skinned  hostess  deputed  an  unwashed  and  unkempt 


112  Havana. 

specimen  of  humanity — apparently  of  the  male  gen- 
der— to  wait  on  us.  We  followed  our  guide  through 
a  large  back-yard,  swarming  with  pigs  and  poultry,  to 
a  dingy  out-building,  which  contained  two  or  three 
rooms,  separated  from  each  other  by  rough  board 
partitions.  These  apartments  were  so  dirty  and  un- 
comfortable, that  we  decided  not  to  engage  them ; 
which  decision,  was  strengthened  by  the  discovery 
that  there  were  no  inside  fastenings  to  any  of  the 
doors,  and  no  way  to  prevent  the  intrusion  of  the 
"  outside  barbarians,"  were  any  of  them  disposed  to 
pay  us  a  nocturnal  visit.  On  our  way  back  to  the 
inn  I  noticed  two  suspicious-looking  fellows  seated  on 
the  ground  playing  at  monte^  a  favorite  game  of  cards 
with  the  peasantr3^  This  discovery  so  affected  the 
sensitive  organization  of  my  friend  the  Ex-Congress- 
man, that  he  expressed  a  determination  to  return  to 
Havana  that  night,  being  satisfied  with  his  limited 
acquaintance  with  Cuban  society  and  scenery. 

The  untidy  appearance  of  the  place,  both  in  and 
out  of  doors,  had  such  an  imappetizing  effect  upon  us, 
that  we  did  not  wait  for  breakfast,  but  left  imme- 
diately for  the  ingenio  ;   Mr.  and  Mrs.  S in  an  old 


An  Impetuous  Steed.  113 

rickety  volante,  and  I  on  an  old  and  apparently 
rickety  horse,  whose  powers  of  locomotion,  however, 
proved  to  be  much  superior  to  what  I  was  led  to 
expect  from  his  dilapidated  appearance.  If  you  have 
any  conception  of  the  shape  of  "  a  Virginia  rail-fence," 
you  can  perhaps  form  some  idea  of  the  road  over 
which  we  travelled.  It  was  tortuous  in  the  extreme, 
and  its  boundaries  not  being  defined  by  fence  or 
hedge,  the  postillion  and  guide  was  at  liberty  to  select 
bis  way  ad  libitum.  Soon  after  we  started,  my  steed, 
either  disliking  the  spur  affixed  to  my  heel  or  not 
understanding  my  Yankee  dialect,  increased  his  speed 
to  such  a  degree  that  I  was  obliged  to  let  go  the  small 
cord  substituted  for  reins,  and  cling  with  tenacity  to 
the  saddle.  After  a  ride  of  half  a  mile  or  so,  John- 
Gilpin-like,  my  impetuous  charger  halted  at  a  rustic 
cabin,  where  he  evidently  had,  at  some  former  time, 
been  Aorse-pitably  entertained.  I  there  made  some 
alterations  in  the  bridle,  and  keeping  my  heels  (par- 
ticularly the  offending  one)  as  far  from  his  susceptible 
sides  as  possible,  succeeded  in  reaching  my  place  of 
destination  in  safety. 

After  waiting  two  or  three  hours  without  seeing  or 

5* 


114  Havana. 

hearing  anything  from  the  rest  of  our  party,  some  six 
or  eight  in  number,  my  friends  made  a  hasty  exami- 
nation of  the  premises  and  returned  to  Guines,  leav- 
ing me  to  pursue  the  rest  of  my  journey  alone.     I 

subsequently  learned  that  Mr.  and  Mrs.  S having 

unknowingly  taken  the  only  public  volante  in  that 
enterprising  town,  no  conveyance  could  be  procured 
for  the  other  ladies,  consequently  they  all  took  the 
return  train  to  Havana  without  having  accomplished 
the  object  of  their  journey. 

I  remained  at  this  ingenio  long  enough  to  give  it  a 
careful  examination,  and  to  obtain  from  the  gentle- 
manly proprietor  much  valuable  information.  This 
estate  contains  two  thousand  acres,  nearly  three-fourths 
of  which  are  now  planted  with  cane,  which  produces, 
on  an  average,  about  fifteen  hundred  hogsheads  of 
sugar  each  year,  besides  a  small  quantity  of  molasses, 
and  a  liquor  called,  aguardiente,  a  kind  of  domestic 
rum  made  from  the  refuse  cane.  These  cane  fields,  in 
the  distance,  look  like  immense  fields  of  giant  broom- 
corn  ;  v^ith  nothing  to  break  the  monotony,  except 
the  white  mansion  of  the  overseer,  surrounded  by  a 
few  straggling  shade-trees,  and  the  large  sugar  manu- 


Cutting  the  Sugar  Cane.  115 

factory,  with  dense  vohimes  of  black  smoke  ascend- 
ing from  its  tall,  spectre-hke  chimney. 

Tlie  cane  ripens  but  once  a  year,  and  must  be  cut 
as  soon  as  it  is  sufficiently  mature.     Therefore,  during 
the  cutting  season  all  the  available  help  on  the  plan- 
tation is  brought  into  requisition — old  and  young, 
male  and  female;  in  fict,  every  creature  that  is  strong 
enough  to  wield  a  maclitte^  or  cutting  knife,  is  obliged 
to  labor  in  the  field  during  the  entire  day  aud  a  part 
of  the  night,  until  the  cane  is  cut  and  secured.      In 
the  sugar  districts  of  the  United  States,  the  cane  has 
often  to  be  cut  and  manufactured  within  a  period  of 
four  or  five  weeks,  to  escape  the  frost,  and  frequently 
has  to  be  gathered  before  it  is  fully  ripe.      But  here, 
the  season  is  always  favorable  for  ripening  the  cane, 
which   grows   almost  spontaneously.      Little   or   no 
labor  is  necessary  in  its  cultivation,  and  the  time  for 
gathering  the  cane  and  making  it  into  sugar,  is  ex- 
tended through  a  period  of  from  three  to  four  months. 
In   Louisiana   the   cane  has  to  be  replanted  nearly 
every  year.     But  the  climate  here  is  so  favorable,  and 
the  soil  so  deep  and  fertile,  that  it  will  produce  satis- 
factory crops  for  eight  or  ten  years  without  being 


1 1 6  Havana. 

renewed;  and  there  are  estates  on  this  island  that 
have  not  been  replanted  within  the  memory  of  the 
oldest  inhabitants.  It  is  said  that  the  cane-fields  on 
the  island  of  St.  Thomas,  which  were  planted  more 
than  a  century  ago  by  the  Portuguese,  still  flourish 
and  yield  remunerating  crops.  These  facts  show  the 
great  disadvantages  under  which  sugar  planters  in 
the  Southern  States  labor,  compared  with  those  simi- 
larly engaged  in  Cuba  and  other  tropical  countries. 

There  are  two  methods  of  making  sugar  on  this 
island.     One   is   called    the    "centrifugal    process," 
where  steam  and  machinery  are  employed :  the  other 
the  "  claying  process,"  where  the  work  is  chiefly  done 
by  manual  and  animal  labor.     The  first  is  very  expe- 
ditious, but  requires  complicated  machinery,  skilful 
engineers,  and  a  large  outlay  of  capital.     The  o-ther  is 
more  simple  and  less  expensive^  but  requires  a  much 
longer  time  in  its  manufacture.     This  ingenio  is  con- 
ducted upon  the  first-named  plan,  and  the  manner  of 
making  sugar  here  is  substantially  as  follows.     After 
the  cane  is  cut  and  the  green  top  removed,  the  main 
stalk  is  carried  to  the  crushing-mill  and  the  juice 
pressed  out  between  two  immense  cylindrical  rollers 


Sugar-Making.  117 

moved  by  steam.     The  crushed  cane  is  then  taken 
away  by  the  women  and  children  and  spread  out  in 
the  sun,  like  new-mown  hay,  to  dry.     When  suffi- 
ciently cured  it  is  housed  in  sheds,  erected  for  the 
purpose,  to  be  used  as  fuel  for  the  engines.     The  cane- 
juice  passes  from  the  crushing-mill  directly  into  an 
immense  reservoir   beneath ;    from  there   it   is   con- 
ducted into  shallow  vats  filled  with  small  steam  pipes, 
which  purge   the  juice  from  all  extraneous  matter. 
It  is  next  transferred  to  a  long  row  of  copper  caldrons, 
where  it  is  boiled  down  to  a  sirup,  the  scum  being 
removed  as  fast  as  it  appears  on  the  surface.     After 
it  has  attained  the  requisite  color  and  consistency,  it 
is  drawn  off  into  large  shallow  vats  to  cool.     By  the 
side  of  these  vats  are  arranged  a  number  of  circular 
iron  hoppers  each  holding  a  bushel  or  more.     These 
hoppers,  or  rather  cylinders,  are  double  thickness; 
the  outside  being  of  solid  iron,  while  the  lining  is  of 
fine  wire  cloth,  with  a  space  of  a  few  inches  between. 
This  space  is  filled  with  the  saccharine  mixture,  and 
the  hopper  which  is  connected  with  the  engine  is  set 
in  motion.     After  it  has  made  several  thousand  revo- 
lutions, at  the  rate  of  about  two  thousand  each  minute. 


ii8  Havana. 

the  motion  is  arrested  and  you  discover  that  the  inner 
surface  of  the  wire  cylinder  is  thickly  covered  with 
rich  yellow  sugar,  beautifully  crystallized  and  ready 
for  use.  What  falls  to  the  bottom  is  molasses,  which 
is  put  up  in  hogsheads  for  market,  or  used  for  distil- 
lation. The  sugar  made  by  this  "  centrifugal  process," 
called  "  Muscovado,"  is  about  the  only  kind  sent  to 
the  United  States  for  refining  and  other  purposes. 
Tlie  other  process  is  slow  and  tedious  compared  with 
that  just  described,  although  the  clayed  sugar  is 
-whiter,  and  in  some  respects  superior  in  quality  to 
the  muscovado.  After  the  juice  is  boiled  down  to 
the  required  consistency,  it  is  put  into  tin  or  earthen 
moulds  shaped  like  a  funnel,  each  holding  about  fifty 
pounds.  On  the  top  is  placed  a  layer  of  soft  pipe-clay 
an  inch  or  two  in  thickness,  the  liquid  portion  of 
wdiich  percolates  through  the  sugar  and  carries  all 
impurities  with  it  out  at  the  orifice.  In  three  or  four 
weeks  the  dry  clay  is  removed  from  the  top,  the 
funnel  inverted,  and  a  large  cone  of  sugar  is  presented 
to  the  view.  It  is  usually  divided  into  three  quali- 
ties :  that  portion  of  tlie  loaf  through  which  the  clay 
first  passes  being  the  purest,  is  put  up  in  boxes  by 


Congoes  and  Coolies.  1 19 

itself,  and  is  known  to  the  commercial  world  as  white 
Havana  sugar.  This  is  the  best  quality  to  be  obtained 
here,  and  is  about  equal  to  our  lowest  grades  of  white 
coffee-sugar. 

The  manual  labor  on  these  plantations  is  performed 
almost  entirely  by  slaves — "  Congoes"  as  they  are 
called  here,  and  "  Coolies"  from  the  Celestial  Empire. 
These  two  classes  of  operatives,  th6ugh  intimately 
associated,  are  by  no  means  alike  in  appearance  or  dis- 
position. The  former  are  natives  of  Africa,  jet  black, 
with  short  crispy  hair,  and  are  slaves  for  life.  The 
latter  are  of  Asiatic  origin,  copper-colored,  w^ith  long, 
straight,  black  hair,  and  are  slaves  for  a  Urm  of  years. 
Thev  are  less  stubborn  and  intractable  than  the  negro, 
but  more  crafty,  unprincipled,  and  revengeful;  and 
if  thwarted  in  any  of  their  designs,  or  punished,  how- 
ever slightly,  for  any  offence,  they  frequently  commit 
suicide,  knowing  that  the  loss  of  their  services  would 
be  a  serious  inconvenience,  if  not  a  great  pecuniary 
misfortune  to  their  masters.  It  appears  that  these 
Coolies  go  into  servitude  voluntarily.  They  enter 
into  contract  with  the  importer  or  his  agent  in  China, 
to  serve  them  or  their  assigns  during  a  term  of  eight 


120  Havana. 

years  from  the  date  of  the  agreement,  for  the  nominal 
sum  of  four  dollars  a  month.     At  the  expiration  of 
that  time  they  are  to  be  sent  back  to  their  own  coun- 
try—if they  are  alive  and  desire  to  return— free  of 
charge  or  expense  to  themselves.     A  bond  to  that 
effect  is  required  by  the  Chinese  authorities  before 
they  will  allow  their  subjects  to  be  taken  away.     So 
great  is  the  demand  on  this  island  for  the  labor  of 
these  orientals,  that  the  importer  frequently  receives 
a  bonus    of    three    or   four    hundred    dollars    per 
head  for  their  services  during  eight  years,  notwith- 
standing their  ignorance  of  the  Spanish   language, 
liability   to  disease,   and   well-known  propensity  to 
commit  suicide  upon  the  slightest  provocation.     Car- 
goes of  these  oriental  productions  are  of  frequent  arri- 
val, and  their  importation  has  become  an  important 
item  in  the  commerce  of  Cuba. 

During  the  manufacturing  season — a  period  of 
about  four  months — the  ingenio  presents  a  scene  of 
unceasing  labor  and  activity.  The  engine  is  kept  at 
work  night  and  day,  and  the  slaves  are  allowed  but 
four  or  five  hours'  sleep  out  of  the  twenty -four; 
although  at  other  times  they  can,  if  they  choose,  sleep 


Sugar  Noblemen.  121 


from  the  setting  to  the  rising  of  the  sun.  Notwith- 
standing this  increase  of  labor,  the  slaves  do  not 
appear  to  dread  the  sugar  season,  for  thej  are  better 
fed  during  that  period,  and  are  allowed  many  pri- 
vileges and  indulgences  that  they  do  not  have  at 
other  times,  and  which,  to  them,  are  more  than  equi- 
valent to  any  excess  of  labor  that  may  be  imposed  on 
them. 

The  growing  of  cane  is  very  profitable.     It  affords 
a  much  larger  profit  on  the  outlay  than  either  coffee 
or  tobacco ;  consequently  the  cultivation  of  the  latter 
products  has  been  considerably  neglected  here  of  late. 
Some  of  the  largest  and  best  managed  ingemos  on  this 
island  yield  an  income  of  over  two  hundred  thousand 
dollars,    while  the   profits  of  many  of  the  smaller 
estates   average   from   fifty   to   a  hundred  thousand 
annually.     Some   of   these   wealthy   planters  being 
ambitious  to  improve  the  pedigree  of  their  posterity, 
as   well   as   their  own  social  position,   purchase  for 
themselves  a  title  from  the  court  of  Spain,  that  of  a 
conde  or  count  costing  about   twenty-five  thousand 
dollars.     This  class  are  designated  as  ''  sugar  noble- 
men," and  are  looked  upon  with  extreme  disfavor  by 


122  Havana. 

the  old  Soanisli  noblesse,  most  of  whom  inherit 
their  titles  from  their  ancestors.  They  regard  these 
new-fledged  aristocrats  of  plebeian  origin  as  imperti- 
nent interlopers,  and  unfit  associates  for  the  genuine 
Castilian  nobility  or  their  lineal  descendants. 

Society  here  appears  to  be  divided  into  three  or 
four  distinct  classes  or  grades.  First  in  point  of 
caste — according  to  the  Spanish  classification — are 
the  natives  of  old  Spain,  comprising  many  of  the 
nobility,  the  clergy,  officers  in  the  army  and  under 
government,  and  a  few  planters  and  merchants.  Class 
number  two  comprises  the  lawyers,  bankers,  mer- 
chants, planters,  and  retired  citizens  of  wealth  among 
the  Creoles  or  native  Cubans.  In  this  class  are  also 
to  be  found  many  persons  of  wealth,  intelligence,  and 
with  sufficient  capacity  to  "scale  the  highest  round  in 
ambition's  ladder,"  ^vere  there  not  insuperable  barriers 
to  their  progress  in  that  direction.  According  to  the 
Spanish  laws,  no  native  Cuban  can  hold  any  office  of 
honor,  trust,  or  emolument  on  this  island,  either  in 
the  army,  the  church,  or  under  government.  They 
are  not  even  allowed  to  serve  as  privates  in  the  regular 
army,  althouo'h   a  regiment  of  free  blacks  is  now"  in 


Classes  of  Society.  i  23 

the  volunteer  service.  The  rigid  exclusion  from  all 
offices  of  honor  and  trust  in  the  land  of  their  birth  is 
extremely  galling  to  the  Creole  population,  many  of 
whom  regard  with  an  uncompromising  dislike  those 
sent  here  from  the  mother  country  to  rule  over  them, 
and  to  be  supported  at  their  expense.  This  is  literally 
the  case ;  for  Cuba  pays  all  the  expenses  of  its  own 
government,  both  civic  and  military ;  maintains  a 
standing  army  of  at  least  thirty  thousand  soldiers, 
besides  an  inconsiderable  navy ;  supports  a  great 
number  of  priests  and  clergy,  and  sends  an  annual 
remittance  to  Spain.  The  third  class  is  composed  of 
free  negroes  (of  which  there  are  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  thousand  on  the  island),  half-breeds,  and  the 
lowest  order  of  the  peasantry.  The  fourth  class  com- 
prises the  coolies  and  the  entire  slave  population, 
"numbering  not  far  from  five  hundred  thousand  50i^?5;" 
but  this  phrase  is  a  solecism,  as  the  Cubans  do  not 
generally  allow  that  their  slaves  have  any  souls  except 
those  supplied  by  nature  to  their  pedal  extremities. 

The  laws  of  Cuba  in  regard  to  slavery  are  so  strin- 
gent and  rigidl}^  enforced  that  the  slaves  on  this  island 
are  exempt  from  many  of  the  abuses  they  receive  in 


124  Havana. 

the  Soutliern  States,  although  there  is  apparently  no 
affection  existing  between  master  and  slave.  Accord- 
ing to  the  Cuban  slave  code,  those  only  between  the 
ages  of  sixteen  and  sixty  can '  be  tasked,  and  when 
incapacitated  for  labor  they  are  to  be  allowed  a 
permanent  subsistence. 

They  are  not  to  be  worked  more  than  ten  hours 
a  day  except  during  the  sugar  season,  when  they 
may  be  employed  for  sixteen  or  eighteen  hours,  but 
with  an  increased  quantity  of  food,  including  a  few 
specified  luxuries.  The  quantity  of  food,  both  animal 
and  vegetable,  for  their  daily  allowance,  and  the  cloth- 
ing they  are  to  have  during  the  year,  is  regulated  by 
law.  On  Sundays  and  during  the  Holy  days,  they  are 
not  to  be  employed  more  than  two  hours  in  the  service 
of  their  masters,  except  when  the  gathering  of  the 
sugar-cane  admits  of  no  delay ;  the  rest  of  the  time 
they  must  be  allowed  to  attend  to  their  gardens  and 
private  occupations.  They  are  also  protected  in 
the  enjoyment  of  a  certain  amount  of  property,  and 
may  apply  their  earnings  to  the  purchase  of  their 
liberty.  Many  have  already  availed  themselves  of 
this  law,  so  favorable  to  emancipation,  and  it  is  sup- 


A  Coffee  Plantation.  125 

posed  that  there  are  at  this  time  over  a  hundred 
thousand  free-blacks  on  this  island.  The  laws  here 
are  very  stringent  in  regard  to  corporal  punishment. 
!No  slave  can  receive  more  than  twenty-five  lashes  for 
any  offence;  if  he  has  committed  a  crime  the  judicial 
authorities  must  decide  his  mode  of  punishment,  and 
as  to  its  severity.  A  master  who  violates  the  slave- 
code  is  heavily  fined,  and  sometimes  punished  by 
imprisonment. 

After  having  "  sugared  up "  my  truculent  steed 
with  a  generous  allowance  of  cane  (for  quadruped  as 
well  as  biped  appears  to  be  fond  of  the  saccharine 
plant),  and  refreshed  myself  with  a  few  of  the  deli- 
cious products  of  the  orange  tree,  I  rode  over  to  a 
cafetal^  or  coffee  plantation,  some  two  miles  distant, 
w^here  I  spent  an  hour  or  two  very  pleasantly.  This 
estate  was  not  in  a  very  prosperous  condition,  and 
did  not  quite  come  up  to  my  expectations.  I  had 
heard  such  glowing  descriptions  of  these  plantations, 
that  I  expected  to  witness  a  scene  of  unsurpassed 
natural  beauty ;  to  revel  amid  such  wealth  of  fruit, 
foliage,  and  flowers,  that  I  would  almost  imagine  my- 
self in  a  terrestrial  paradise.    But  I  can  easily  imagine 


126  Havana. 

that  a  well  arranged  cafeial  in  full  bloom  and  in  a 
flourisliing  condition  mnst  be  a  beautiful  sight.  The 
coffee  shrub  attains  a  height  often  or  twelve  feet,  but 
is  usually  kept  "  headed  down  "  to  about  six  feet,  to 
facilitate  the  picking  of  the  berries.  It  has  large 
glossy  leaves  of  a  deep  green  color,  and  a  profusion 
of  white  flowers  which  grow  in  clusters  at  the  base 
of  the  leaf  It  is  generally  planted  in  squares  of 
about  eight  acres,  separated  from  each  other  by  broad 
avenues  lined  with  double  rows  of  cocoa-nut  trees  or 
palms.  Extending  over  these  squares,  at  regular 
intervals,  are  rows  of  banana,  orange,  lime,  pome- 
granate, and  other  trees  of  smaller  size  and  denser 
foliage,  to  protect  the  coffee-plant  from  the  sun,  its 
scorching  rays  being  too  severe  for  the  delicate  leaves 
and  flowers.  This  plant  is  said  to  blossom  five  or  six 
times  during  the  year,  although  but  a  small  portion 
of  the  flowers  produce  berries,  which  are  at  first 
green,  then  red,  and  when  fully  ripe  of  a  deep  brown 
color.  It  is  seldom  that  more  than  two  crops  of  coffee 
mature  during  the  year,  and  the  labor  of  tending, 
picking,  drying,  aiid  shelling  the  berry,  is  performed 
by  the  slave  women  and  children.     To  bring  a  coffee 


The  Coffee   Plant.  127 

plantation  into  full  bearing  requires  about  four  years. 
Each  plant  yields  from  eight  ounces  to  a  pound  of 
coffee  at  a  picking,  and  -will  continue  to  bear,  if  pro- 
perly attended  to,  for  a  great  number  of  years.  This 
plant  is  not  indigenous  to  Cuba,  although  the  soil  and 
climate  are  tolerably  well  adapted  to  its  grov/th.  The 
disastrous  hurricanes  which  occasionally  visit  this 
island,  damaging  and  destroying  many  of  the  coffee 
estates,  together  with  its  almost  profitless  culture, 
when  compared  with  sugar,  or  even  tobacco,  have 
materiall}^  diminished  its  cultivation. 

Notwithstanding  the  somewhat  dilapidated  appear- 
ance of  this  cafetal^  it  contained  much  that  to  me  was 
novel  and  interesting ;  and  I  could  imagine  that  in 
its  prosperous  daj's — when  the  innumerable  trees 
which  dot  its  squares  were  bending  beneath  the 
weight  of  their  golden  fruitage,  and  the  various 
climbing  plants,  which  now  revel  on  tree-top  and 
hedo^e,  were  covered  with  flowers  of  almost  everv 
hue  and  odor,  and  the  coffee-shrub  in  full  bloom, 
with  its  rich  evergreen  foliage  profusely  covered 
with  snow-white  flowers  — •  it  must  indeed  have 
been   a  beautiful  sight,  and   pleasurably   suggestive 


128  Havana. 

of  the  spot  where  our  "  first  parents "    passed  the 
honej-moon. 

The  principal  avenue  leading  from  the  highway  to 
the  house  belonging  to  the  estate  was  nearly  a  quar- 
ter of  a  mile  long,  and  lined  on  each  side  with  mag- 
nificent specimens  of  the  royal  palm — the  pahna  real 
of  Cuban  fame,  which  is  the  monarch  of  all  tropical 
trees  as  emphatically  as  the  lion  is  king  of  all  beasts. 
These   palms   were    from   fifty   to   sixty   feet   high. 
Their  white,  ring-circled  bodies   gently  swelling  in 
the  centre  and  diminishing  in  circumference  at  each 
end,  were  of  uniform  size,  and  as  perfect  in  shape  as 
if  fashioned  by  the  plastic  hand  of  man  ;  without  a 
limb,   knot,   or  excrescence  of  any  kind  to  mar  the 
symmetry  of  their  smooth  and  beautifully   rounded 
bodies.      The  leaves  were  from  ten  to  twenty  feet 
long,  a  dozen  or  more  forming  the  tuft  or  head  of 
each  tree,  looking  in  the  distance  like  immense  plumes 
of  ostrich-feathers.      These  grand  old  specimens  of 
Cuban   arborescence  were   planted   on   each  side  of 
the  avenue  at  regular  intervals,  their  drooping  tops 
forming    noble   arches   of   living  verdure,    through 
which   the    golden  sunlight    faintly   streamed,    illu- 


The  Palm  Tree. 


129 


minating  the    ^' green  solemnity"    of   tliis   majestic 
colonnade. 

This  is  unquestionably  one  of  the  richest  botanical 
regions  of  the  globe,  and  I  have  been  very  much 
interested  in  many  of  its  wonderful  productions. 
Not  being  familiar  with  the  Spanish  language,  or 
skilled  in  the  nomenclature  of  tropical  trees  and 
plants,  I  had  considerable  difficulty  in  finding  out 
the  names  and  habits  of  many  of  the  trees  peculiar 
to  this  island.  It  was  truly  a  '' pursuit  of  knowledge 
under  difficulties,"  and  if  the  description  I  shall  here 
give  of  a  few  of  the  principal  varieties  be  correct,  I 
shall  be  satisfied  that  my  well-meant  labors  have  not 
been  in  vaim 

The  various  kinds  of  palms  are  probably  unsur- 
passed, for  beauty  and  utility,  by  any  of  the  large 
trees  on  this  island.  The  wood  is  used  for  many 
kinds  of  building  purposes,  and  the  enormous 
leaves,  when  mature,  for  thatching  the  cottages  of 
the  natives ;  while  the  young  foliage,  when  boiled,  is 
said  to  be  as  delicate  as  cabbage,  and  its  seeds  or  nuts 
are  excellent  food  for  swine.     Each  tree  has  about 

twenty  leaves,  which  are  shed  at  regular  intervals 

6 


130 


Havana. 


during  the  year,  leaving  a  circle  of  gum  on  the 
trunk,  which  remains  indelible,  and  by  that  means 
the  age  of  the  tree  can  be  determined  with  considera- 
ble certainty.  The  palm  is  said  to  live  'for  more  than 
two  hundred  years,  and  begins  to  bear  fruit  when 
about  eighteen  years  old. 

Among  the  trees  most  valued  for  its  wood  are  the 
mahogany  and  the  Cedrela  odordta^  a  species  of  cedar, 
which  is  available  for  a  great  variety  of  uses ;  cigar- 
boxes  are  made  of  it,  also  the  doors  of  many  dwell- 
ings, as  it  is  susceptible  of  a  polish  almost  equal  to 
mahogany.  Among  the  numerous  other  trees  to 
which  my  attention  has  been  directed,  are  the  huge, 
ill-shaped  ceyba,  with  its  innumerable  progeny  of  air- 
plants,  which  cover  its  branches,  and  enjoy  a  kind  of 
"  squatter  sovereignty  "  on  premises  not  their  own ; 
the  lofty,  cloud-aspiring  cocoa-palm,  with  its  green, 
tufted  head  depending  in  graceful  beauty,  and  dis- 
playing its  clusters  of  fruit  at  various  stages  of  matu- 
rity, from  the  half-opened  flower  to  the  full-grown 
fruit;  the  indispensable  calabash  or  ''poor-man's 
furnishing-house,"  with  its  immense  globular  fruit  of 
adamantine  hardness,  which  supplies  the  natives  with 


Tropical  Vegetation.  131 

most  of  their  culinary  utensils ;  the  tamarind,  with 
its  acidulous  fruit,  and  delicately  cut  leaves  of  green, 
in  beautiful  contrast  with  the  deep  blue  of  the  sky, 
as  seen  through  its  gossamer  foliage  ;  the  bright  and 
delicate  bamboo,  growing  in  luxuriant  clumps,  grace- 
ful in  its  form,  and  bending  to  the  slightest  breeze ; 
and  the  mango,  with  its  long  racemes  of  kidney- 
shaped  fruit,  and  with  foliage  so  dense  as  to  yield  a 
grateful  shade  from  the  scorching  rays  of  a  tropical 
sun.     Time  will  not  permit  me  to  describe  all  the  fruit 

"  The  trees  of  this  fair  island  bore, 
Whose  balmy  fragrance  lured  the  tongue  to  taste 
Their  flavors  :  Here  bananas  flung  to  waste 

Their  golden  flagons  with  thick  honey  filled  ! 

From  splintered  cups  the  ripe  pomegranates  sj^illed 
A  shower  of  rubies  :  oranges  that  glow 
Like  globes  of  fire,  inclose  a  heart  of  snow ! 

Here  dates  of  agate  and  of  jasper  lay, 

Dropped  from  the  bounty  of  the  pregnant  palm, 
And  all  ambrosial  trees,  all  fruits  of  balm. 

All  flowers  of  precious  odors,  made  the  day 
As  sweet  as  a  morn  of  j^aradise." 

I  was  further  reminded  of  the  Garden  of  Eden,  by 


132  Havana. 

being  shown  a  tree  which  some  of  the  credulous  na- 
tives believe  to  be  the  "  Tree  of  Knowledge,"  which 

bore  that  fruit 

"  whose  mortal  taste 

Brousjht  death  into  the  world  and  all  our  woe." 

This  island  abounds  in  parasitical  plants,  which 
creep  over  shrubs  and  trees,  and  like  the  hanging  moss 
on  the  gums  and  cypresses  of  our  southern  forests, 
appear  to  derive  most  of  their  sustenance  from  the 
air.  The  Jaquay-macho^  one  of  the  most  destructive 
of  these  parasites,  commences  to  grow  on  the  limbs 
or  body  of  the  tree ;  extending  its  fibres  in  every 
direction,  and  increasing  in  size  and  strength,  until 
it  wraps  the  whole  tree  in  its  fatal  embrace.  This 
death-struggle  may  continue  for  years,  but  in  the  end, 
this  unfilial  parasite,  which  nourishes  itself  with  the 
life  of  its  foster-parent,  will  be  conqueror.  • 

This  phenomenon  is  thus  explained.  The  seeds 
of  the  jaquay  are  carried  by  birds,  or  lodged  by  the 
wind  among  the  branches  of  some  neighboring  tree, 
where  they  germinate,  sending  out  numerous  long 
slender  fibres,  which  continue  to  grow  until  they 
reach  the  ground,   where  they  take  root.      These 


The  Jaquay-Macho.  133 

fibres  continue  to  multiply  and  increase  in  size  until 
tliey  cover  the  entire  body  of  the  tree,  when  they 
unite,  formins;  a  tree  of  themselves,  the  heart  of  which 
is  tlie  parent-tree,  which  first  lent  it  support  and  gave 
it  nourishment — a  remarkable  instance  of  filial  ingra- 
titude. It  is  said  that  when  once  the  jaquay  takes 
root,  no  tree,  however  large,  can  resist  its  destructive 
grasp.  It  winds  itself  around  it  with  a  slow,  unyield- 
ing tenacit}^,  and,  like  the  insidious  serpent,  tightens 
its  hold  with  every  movement,  however  impercepti- 
ble, until  it  crushes  or  smothers  its  victim  in  its  fatal 
embrace. 


LETTEE    X. 

Havana,  March,  1856. 

It  was  quite  late  in  the  afternoon  when  I  set  out 
on  my  return  to  Guines,  in  anticipation  of  spending 
a  comfortless  night  at  a  miserable  venta  or  inn,  a 
place  where  they  provide  "entertainment  for  man 
and  beast"  on  the  same  floor ;  and  from  what  I  saw 
in  the  morning,  I  judged  that  the  sleeping-rooms  were 
occupied  by  bipeds  and  quadrupeds  alternately.  I 
was  a  stranger^  and  expected  to  be  "  taken  in,"  but 
not  in  the  scriptural  sense ;  was  in  the  hands  of  the 
Philistines,  but  not  having  the  strength  of  Samson,  or 
any  "jaw-bone"  but  my  own  to  defend  myself  with, 
I  knew  not  what  was  to  be  my  fate. 

While  riding  slowly  along,  absorbed  in  gloomy 
meditations,  I  was  startled  by  the  sound  of  voices  as 
if  in  altercation.      Looking  up,  I  beheld  a  sjDectacle 


Riding  Double.  135 

so  ludicrous  that  my  risibles  were  excited  in  an 
unusual  degree.  It  was  a  rustico,  or  native  peasant, 
returning  from  town,  seated  on  the  posteriors  of  a 
diminutive  animal,  with  his  largei^-holf  in  front  of 
him.  One  arm  was  around  her  waist,  while  with  the 
other  he  guided  his  Eosinante,  which  I  imagined 
belonged  to  the  "  genus  asinine,"  from  the  length  of 
its  ears,  that  being  about  the  only  part  of  the  animal 
visible.  The  man  was  quietly  smoking  a  cigar,  while 
the  woman — evidently  a  virago — was  talking  Spanish 
with  wonderful  volubility ;  and  from  her  rapid  ges- 
ticulations and  excited  manner,  I  judged  that  her 
conversation  was  not  likely  to  become  insipid  from 
want  of  sufficient  acrimony.  This  loving  couple 
appeared  much  better  able  to  carry  the  animal  they 
rode,  than  the  animal  to  carry  them  ;  but  not  being 
a  reformer  of  abuses,  like  the  chivalrous  Knight  of 
La  Mancha,  I  did  not  think  it  best  to  remonstrate. 

A  little  further  on  I  met  a  mountain  cavalier,  on  a 
spirited  horse,  with  sword  and  pistols  by  his  side,  and 
with  silver  spurs  so  highly  burnished,  that  they  glit- 
tered in  the  bright  sunlight  like  a  cluster  of  diamonds. 
As  he  passed  me,  he  very  politely  touched  his  som- 


136  Havana. 

brero,  and  with  a  '■^huenos  dtas,  Senor'''  (good  day,  sir), 
was  soon  lost  in  the  distance.  These  monteros  inherit 
from  their  Moorish  ancestors  their  pecuHar  attach- 
ment for  the  horse,  and  they  are  accustomed  to  the 
saddle  from  their  early  youth.  A  horse,  sword,  and 
silver  spurs,  generally  comprise  his  estate — both  real 
and  personal.  With  these  chattels  he  is  as  inde- 
pendent and  happy  as  if  the  undisputed  possessor  of 
a  well-stocked  plantation.  They  are  to  Mm  not  only 
a  luxury,  but  a  positive  necessity,  and  as  indispensa- 
ble to  his  maintaining  "  a  position"  in  upper- tendom, 
as  is  a  volante  to  the  social  elevation  of  a  Cuban 
senorita.  When  I  first  discovered  this  armed  horse- 
man approaching  on  a  full  gallop,  I  confess  I  was  a 
little  startled,  for  we  were  a  long  distance  from  any 
habitation,  and  I  had  been  told  at  the  ingenio  that  a 
robbery  had  been  committed  in  that  vicinity  the  week 
before ;  but  his  respectful  salutation  relieved  me  at 
once  from  all  unpleasant  suspense.  Spanish  robbers 
have  the  reputation  of  being  exceedingly  polite,  and 
many  curious  stories  are  told  illustrative  of  their 
peculiar  suaviter  in  modo.  One  that  I  heard  recently, 
exhibits  such  a  rare  combination  of  Yankee  assur- 


The  Polite  Footpad.  137 

ance  with  true  Chesterfieldian  pohteness,  that  I  will 
relate  it.  A  traveller  on  horseback  was  accosted,  in 
an  unfrequented  part  of  the  countrj^,  by  a  footpad. 
*'  Sir,"  said  he  to  the  gentleman,  as  he  seized  his  horse 
by  the  bridle,  *'  I  see  that  you  are  riding  my  horse  ; 
let  me  assist  you  to  dismount !"  The  traveller  delibe- 
rately drew  a  pistol  from  his  pocket,  and  pointing  it 
at  the  fellow's  head,  asked  him  to  look  again  and  see 
if  he  were  not  mistaken.  "  Senor,"  said  the  highway- 
man, bowing  very  low  as  he  relinquished  his  hold  of 
the  bridle,  "  I  perceive  ray  mistake.  Please  to  honor 
me  with  your  card,  that  I  may  remember  you  here- 
after in  my  prayers!" 

As  I  aj^proached  Guines  the  sky  began  to  darken, 
and  fearing  a  storm,  I  put  spurs  to  my  horse  (notwith- 
standing my  former  mishap),  and  rode  into  town  at 
an  accelerated  pace.  As  I  entered  the  first  street,  a 
man  rushed  out  of  an  adjacent  building,  seized  my 
horse  by  the  bridle,  and  thrusting  his  brawny  hand 
into  my  face,  vociferated  '■''quarto  peso.''''  'bij  first 
thought  was  of  robbery ;  but  a  second  convinced  me 
that  the  man  was  the  owner  of  the  animal  I  was  on, 

and  only  intended  to  adopt  the  Cuban  mode  of  rob- 

6* 


138  Havana. 

bery  by  extortion — a  less  summary,  but  equally  vexa- 
tious  mode   of  being  relieved  of  one's   money.      I 
dismounted,  and  handed  the  fellow  a  quarter-eagle, 
which  was  more  than  he  was  legally  entitled  to,  and 
more  than  I  was  directed  to  pay  by  the  gentleman 
who  procured  the  animal  for  me  in  the  morning.     He 
threw  down  the  coin,  and  again  vociferated  "  quarto 
peso'  (four  dollars).     Not  being  able  to  speak  his  lan- 
guage intelligibly,  nor  he  to  understand  my  vernacu- 
lar, I  began  to  move  in   the  direction  of  the  inn, 
closely  followed  by  my  excited  companion,  talking 
loudly  and  rapidly  gesticulating.     As  we  were  pass- 
ing the  door  of  about  the  only  respectable-looking 
house  in  that  vicinity,  he  seized  me  by  the  arm,  and 
pushing  open  the  door  led  me  into  a  room  where  two 
persons  were  seated  at  a  table.      I  began  to  try  to 
make  my  grievances  known  in  execrable  Spanish, 
aided  by  an  attempt  at  pantomime,  supposing  that  I 
was   in   the   presence   of  some   ubiquitous   Spanish 
officials,  when  one  of  the  gentlemen  addressed  me  in 
English.      They  proved  to  be  New  Yorkers,  who 
were  boarding  at  this  house,  and  I  was  assured  by 
them  that  I  had  offered  the  man  more  than  was  his 


An  Unlooked-for  Exemption.  139 

just  due  ;  it  being  tlie  custom  of  tlie  inhabitants  liere 
to  extort  from  strangers  ad  libitum.  They  then  called 
the  proprietor  of  the  house,  who  sent  the  fellow 
adrift  with  what  I  had  at  first  paid  him.  At  the 
solicitation  of  these  "good  Samaritans,"  I  remained 
there  during  the  night ;  had  a  comfortable  room,  and 
what  was  a  still  greater  luxury  in  Cuba,  a  clean  bed. 
In  the  morning,  after  partaking  of  a  passably  good 
breakfast,  and  making  my  grateful  acknowledgments 
to  my  newly-made  friends — I  ^'  went  on  my  way 
rejoicing." 

I  reached  Matanzas  by  rail  the  same  evening,  and 
to  my  surprise  was  not  called  upon  to  show  my  per- 
mit at  the  station,  although  surrounded  by  the  omni- 
present police,  and  meeting  soldiers  at  almost  every 
step.  •  I  attributed  this  unlooked-for  exemption  from 
Spanish  vigilance,  to  the  fact  that  just  before  leaving 
Havana  I  went  into  a  sastraria — or  tailor-shop — to 
procure  a  change  of  summer  clothing,  and  could  find 
but  one  suit  large  enough  and  that  was  made  for  a 
Spanish  of&ccr,  which  the  proprietor  let  me  have  on 
my  paying  him  an  extra  peso.  Apparelled  in  this 
suit  of  blue  and  white  (a  kind  of  military  undress), 


140 


Havana. 


and  a  broad-brimmed  sombrero,  with  mj  beard  and 
mustaclie  trimmed  in  tbe  latest  Cuban  style,  and  my 
complexion,  naturally  dark,  deepened  by  recent  expo- 
sure to  a  tropical  sun,  into  a  genuine  "Spanish 
brown,'*  I  was  enabled  to  pass  very  well  for  a  native 
as  long  as  I  kept  my  mouth  shut.  This  I  did  at  times 
from  prudential  motives ;  although  I  must  acknow- 
ledge, that,  during  my  sojourn  at  Havana  and  other 
places  on  this  island,  I  have,  with  a  few  exceptions, 
been  treated  with  the  utmost  civility  by  the  inha- 
bitants. 

On  the  cars  I  met  an  intelhgent  American,  the 
overseer  of  a  sugar  estate  in  this  vicinity,  who  directed 
me  to  the  "  Union  Hotel"  as  the  best  in  Matanzas ;  at 
the  same  time  he  gave  me  to  understand  that  I  would 
find  very  poor  accommodations.  I  am  surprised  that 
a  city  of  nearly  thirty  thousand  inhabitants  should 
contain  no  better  place  of  entertainment  than  this 
miserable  little  'posada^  dignified  by  the  title  of 
"  hotel."  It  was  a  low,  unpainted  wooden  building, 
a  story  and  a  half  high,  and  contained  about  a  dozen 
miserable  seven-by-nine  lodging  rooms.  The  one  I 
occupied  was  on  the  second  floor,  and  barely  large 


A  Night  with  the  Insects.  141 

enough  to  accommodate  the  farniture,  which  con- 
sisted of  a  narrow  cot-bedstead,  a  cedar  table,  and  one 
rickety  chair.  I  found  no  difficulty  in  standing  erect 
in  one  part  of  the  room,  but  as  the  ceiling  descended 
at  an  angle  with  the  roof,  the  other  side  would  only 
admit  of  a  stooping  posture.  The  room  was  neither 
plastered  nor  ceiled,  with  no  window  in  the  side  or  end, 
but  a  small  hole  in  the  roof  to  let  the  air  out  and  the 
musquitoes  in. 

Making  a  virtue  of  necessity  I  spent  one  night  in 
this  miserable  abode,  which  was  all  that  I  could 
endure,  being  so  annoyed  by  cockroaches  and  other 
insects  (for  Cuban  insects,  like  Spanish  flies,  are  very 
irritaiing)  that  I  got  but  little  sleep.  I  lay  all  night 
rolling  and  tumbling  on  my  bed  of  unrest  engaged  in 
the  delightful  occupation  of  fighting  sanguinary  mus- 
quitoes, and  in  praying  for  Morpheus  or  daylight  to 
come  to  my  relief.  In  the  morning  I  arose  with  the 
sun,  and  thrusting  my  head  out  of  the  hole  in  the 
roof,  snuffed  the  breezes  of  heaven  with  the  avidity  of 
a  convict  just  escaped  from  some  loathsome  dungeon. 
Finding  that  breakfast  would  not  be  ready  until  nine 
o'clock  (some  three  hours  later)^  I  contented  myself 


142 


Havana. 


with  a  roll  and  a  cup  of  coffee  prepared  for  some 
early  riser,  and  called  for  my  bill,  whicli  was  only  two 
dollars  and  a  lialf— a  yerj  moderate  demand  for  one 
night's  lodging  (but  not  sleeping),  and  ''  a  hasty  cup" 
of  a  miserable  muddy  mixture  called  coifee.     How- 
eyer,  I  paid  the  bill  without  comment,  being  glad  to 
get  away  at  almost  any  pecuniar}^  sacrifice,  as  I  was 
fearful  that  another  night  of  such  wholesale  depletion 
would   not   leave   blood   enough   in   my   system   to 
"honor  the  hilU^  of  any  other  mercenary  musquitoes 
that   I   might  encounter  during  my  peregrinations. 
One  more  such  depletory  ordeal,  I  opine,  would  bank- 
rupt me  physically,  and  leave  me  without  sufficient 
vitality  to  pay  any  debt,   save  the  final   "debt  to 
nature."     *     ^     *     Matanzas  has   a  population   of 
over  twenty -five  thousand,  and  is  next  in  commercial 
importance    to   Havana,    which   place   it   somewhat 
resembles ;  although  its  streets  are  considerably  wider, 
and  it  has  less  the  appearance  of  a  tropical  city.     It 
has  its  Plaza  de  Armas  like  Havana,  also  a  cathedral, 
hospital,  barracks,  and  other  public  buildings.     Yet 
the  city  itself  is  dull  and  uninteresting  when  compared 
with  its  more  opulent  neighbor.     The  country  lying 


Description  of  Matanzas.  143 

around  Matanzas  is  quite  elevated,  and  some  of  the 
scenery  is  wild  and  beautifully  picturesque.  Not  far 
distant  is  a  crescent-sbaped  mountain  called  the  Cum- 
bre,  the  top  of  which  is  nearly  three  thousand  feet 
above  the  sea.  It  is  a  favorite  resort  for  strangers,  as 
it  is  easy  of  access  and  affords  a  panoramic  view  that, 
for  extent,  variety,  and  beauty,  is  unsurpassed  in  the 
tropics.  Matanzas  lies  on  the  sloping  lands  between 
the  Cumbre  and  the  sea,  and  is  gradually  creeping  up 
the  sides  of  the  mountain,  whose  summit  is  crowned 
with  pleasant  villas  and  the  residences  of  the  wealthy 
planters  who  own  estates  in  the  valle}^  The  view 
from  the  top  is  almost  boundless,  extending  at  least 
fifty  miles  in  several  different  directions.  On  one  side 
was  the  city  with  its  quaint  old  Moorish  towers  and 
turreted  battlements ;  its  low,  parti-colored  buildings, 
with  flat  tiled  roofs,  and  its  spacious  harbor,  in  which 
many  "  a  ship  with  folded  wings  lay  sleeping  on  the 
tide."  Beyond,  was  the  broad,  unfathomable  ocean, 
with  its  myriads  of  white-capped  waves — 

*'  Chanting  in  wildly  measured  chorus 
Their  hymn  of  majesty." 


i/|/[  Havana.   . 

On  the  other  side,  at  its  very  feet,  as  it  were,  reposed 
in  quiet  beauty  the  lovely  valley  of  the  Yumuri, 
with  its  waving  fields  of  giant-cane,  its  cafetals  and 
orange  plantations,  surrounded  by  hedges,  and  the 
white-winged  mansions  of  the  owners,  half  hidden  in 
tropical  verdure ;  with  here  and  there  a  palm-thatched 
cottage  with  a  solitar}^  cocoa-nut  tree,  rising  high 
above  the  roof,  and  overshadowing  it  like  a  protect- 
ing deity. 

Scattered  over  the  intervening  space  were  groves 
of  the  mango,  banana,  orange^  and  other  tropical 
fruits,  with  an  occasional  thicket  of  bamboo,  their 
tall,  green,  waving,  feathery  forms,  yielding  to  the 
slightest  breeze,  and  glistening  with  an  almost  eme- 
rald brilliancy  in  the  sunshine  of  a  bright  spring 
morning.  It  was  a  scene  that  cannot  well  be  de- 
scribed; a  picture  that  would  require  the  magic 
pencil  of  a  Titian  to  delineate. 

On  my  return  to  the  city,  I  repaired  to  the  cathe- 
dral, where  I  witnessed  a  scene  entirely  different  from 
the  one  I  had  just  been  contemplating.  Here  was  a 
display  of  priests  and  pageantry,  of  incense  and  ado- 
ration.     Here  were  beautiful  ladies  in  rich  attire, 


Scene  in  the  Cathedral.  145 

redining  upon  gav  bits  of  carpet  spread  on  the 
marble  floor.  Here  were  spruce-looking  senors  in 
black  dress-coats  and  white  gloves,  bowing  before  the 
altar,  but  evidently  more  interested  in  their  fair  fellow- 
worshippers  than  in  the  prosy  patcr-nosters  of  the 
portly  bishops  and  sanctimonious  priests.  The  inte- 
rior of  the  church  was  profusely  decorated  with  gold 
and  silver  ornaments  and  artificial  flowers.  The 
gilded  trappings  of  the  various  altars  glistened  in  the 
light  of  innumerable  wax  candles,  and  the  air  was 
fragrant  with  incense  from  censers  borne  about  by 
young  novitiates,  in  embroidered  caps  and  sacerdotal 
robes.  These,  together  with  the  festal  costumes  of 
the  audience,  who  were  constantly  coming  and  going, 
presented  rather  an  undevout  aspect  to  a  stranger 
and  a  Protestant. 

A  company  of  soldiers  soon  came  marching  in  to 
the  sound  of  the  fife  and  drum.  Stackins^  their  arms 
in  the  centre  of  the  church,  they  dropped  on  one  knee, 
and  with  bowed  heads  and  arms  crossed  upon  their 
breasts  awaited  their  turn  at  the  confessional,  which 
was  then  occupied  by  [the  "  less  sinful  sex."  I  judged, 
however,  from  the  length  of  time  some  of  them  were 


1 46  Havana. 

engaged  with  tlieir  confessors,  that  their  sins  must 
have  been  very  scarlet.  I  observed  that  the  youngest 
and  best  looking  priests  were  assigned  to  the  ladies. 
This  might  have  been  accidental,  but  I  could  not 
help  thinking  that  it  was  so  designed.  These  padres 
sat  in  their  confessional  boxes,  with  their  faces  close 
to  the  lattice- work  separating  them  from  the  fair 
kneeling  penitents,  who  were  listening  to  the  words 
of  consolation  or — something  else — which  Dame  Ru- 
mor says  these  wily  priests  not  unfrequently  delight 
to  pour  into  their  two  willing  ears.  The  Cuban  ladies 
have  the  reputation  of  being  particularly  susceptible 
to  the  tender  passion,  and  oft-times  "  love  not  wisely, 
but  too  well." 

I  have  been  very  much  impressed  here,  as  well  as 
in  Havana,  with  the  disparity  in  size  and  physical 
development  between  the  Cuban  ladies  and  gentle- 
men of  the  better  classes.  The  gentlemen,  as  a  sex, 
are  the  most  diminutive  specimens  of  male  humanit}^ 
that  I  have  ever  seen.  I  refer  more  particularly  to 
the  Cuban  aristocracy,  for  the  highest  classes,  to  speak 
paradoxicall}^,  are  perpendicularly  the  loiuest.  The 
cause  of  this  diminution  in  stature  has  been  attributed 


The  Cuban  Ladies.  147 

to  excessiv^e  smoking  during  their  boyhood,  and  inter- 
marriage of  kindrecl  during  many  generations.  The 
men  are  as  remarkable  for  tenuity  as  the  women  for 
plumpness.  The  males  are  small,  thin — mere  atomic 
specimens  of  humanity,  while  the  females  are  almost 
without  exception  rotund,  and  of  fair  proportions. 
Notwitlistanding  the  Cuban  ladies,  both  plebeian  and 
patrician,  are  slightly  emhonpoint^  1\\qj  are  instinct- 
ively graceful  and  easy  in  their  bearing.  Thc}^  have 
not  the  elastic  step  and  Terpsichorean  agility  of  the 
French ;  but  "  a  seducing  grace  of  motion,"  an  im- 
passioned abandon  of  manner,  characterize  all  their 
movements,  whether  at  worship  in  church,  coquetting 
on  the  Plaza,  or  in  the  giddy  mazes  of  the  dance, 

when 

"  to  the  low  voluptuous  swoons 
Of  music,  rise  and  fall  the  moons 
Of  their  full  brown  bosoms." 

How  gracefully  they  float  through  the  delicious  mazes 
of  the  contradanza^  to  the  soft  entrancing  music  of  that 
luxurious  dance!  Their  graceful  motions  and  undu- 
lating movements  are  but  the  "  rhythmic  utterances" 
of  their  most-too-tropically-languid  lives.    The  contra- 


148  Havana. 

danza  is  the  dance,  par  excellence,  of  the  Cuban  salons  ; 
while  the  fandango^  accompanied  bj  the  tinkling  of  a 
guitar  and  the  lively  rattle  of  the  inspiring  castanets, 
is  the  favorite  with  the  peasantry.     They  dance  upon 
the  lea,  by  the  wayside,  or  beneath  the  shade  of  some 
•umbrageous  tree  or  vine-clad  bower.     In  fact,  when- 
ever a  few  of  these  rustic  belles  and  beaux  meet  toge- 
ther after  the  labors  of  the  day^  if  a  guitar  can  be  had, 
they  are  sure  to  indulge  in  their  favorite  amusement. 
These  peasant  women  dance  well  from  instinct,  and 
in  all  their  movements  they  exhibit  a  peculiar  grace, 
with  a  freedom  from  those  awkward  gestures  and  un- 
becoming attitudes  so  often  to  be  seen  among  that 
class  of  females  in  the  United  States.     A  recent  tra- 
veller in  Cuba  has  expressed  his  belief  that  a  really 
awkward  woman  does  not  exist  on  the  island.     Whe- 
ther bred  in  the  city  or  country,  in  the  humble  cottage 
of  the  montero,  in  the  retired  mansion  of  the  planter, 
or  the  lowly  dwelling  of  the  artisan,  she  is  sure  to  be 
easy  and  graceful  in  her  bearing,  if  not  possessed  of 
all  the  polish  and  dilettanteism  of  an  educated  and 
highly  cultivated  life. 

My  next  stopping-place  was  Cardenas,  a  flourishing 


Cardenas.  145 

sea-port  town  of  some  six  thousand  inhabitants,  the 
great  Cuban  mart  for  sugar  and  molasses.  Thousands 
of  hogsheads  were  piled  upon  its  wharves,  ready  for 
shipment,  and  its  numerous  warehouses  were  literally 
"running  over"  with  treacle.  As  there  was  but  little 
to  interest  me  in  and  around  Cardenas,  my  stay  there 
was  short.  The  evening  of  the  second  day  found  me 
on  board  of  a  small  steamer  which  plies  between  that 
place  and  Havana.  Kot  being  familiar  with  the  rules 
and  regulations  of  Cuban  steamboats,  or  acquainted 
with  the  language,  I  was  at  a  loss  how  to  procure  a 
stateroom  or  berth  for  the  night.  During  my  school- 
boy days  I  was  often  made  to  "  walk  Spanish,"  but 
was  never  taught  the  dialect ;  consequently,  I  could 
not  obtain  the  information  I  desired  in  a  legitimate 
way,  and  was  obliged  to  substitute  Yankee  assurance 
for  Spanish  cognition,  and  abide  the  result. 

Among  the  passengers  who  came  on  board,  I  noticed 
a  stout,  thick-set,  benevolent-looking  individual,  who 
attracted  my  attention  from  his  being  the  most  adipose 
specimen  of  male  humanity  that  I  had  seen  during 
my  stay  on  the  island.  He  was  well-dressed,  scrupu- 
lously  neat  in  his  appearance,  and  carried  a  cigar 


1 50  Havana. 

behind  his  ear,  in  the  place  of  a  pen,  giving  to  him  a 
commercial  air,  and  establishing  bejond  peradventure 
his  calling.     I  resolved  in  my  mind  to  follow  this  man, 
and  to  imitate  his  movements  as  far  as  practicable. 
He  proceeded  immediately  to  the  cabin,  and  placed 
the  satchel  he  carried  in  his  hand  in  an  unoccupied 
berth.     I  did  the  same,  then  followed  him  to  the  ticket 
office,  where  he  laid  down  a  gold  coin  with  the  words 
"  holeiin  por  Hahanar     I  echoed  his  expression,  ten- 
dered my  coin,  and  the  same  results  followed.     I  was 
quite  elated  at  the  success  of  my  ruse,  by  which  I  had 
secured  a  passage-ticket  and  a  berth  for  the  night  with- 
out the  assistance  of  an  interpreter,  and  added  a  few 
words  to  my  vocabulary  of  Spanish  without  the  aid 
of  a  text  book,  or  any  superfluous  waste  of  the  "  mid- 
night  oil."     Being  in   a   peculiarly   self-complacent 
mood,  and  not  anticipating  any  further  impediment 
to  a  successful  voyage,  I  left  the  crowded  passages  of 
the  vessel,  and  sought  a  retired  place  on  deck  where 
I  could  commune  with  Nature  and  my  own  thoughts 
undisturbed,  and  free  from  the  annoyance  of  the  com- 
bined odor  of  garlic  and  cigar-smoke. 

The  night  was  beautiful ;  the  sky  serene,  and  the 


An  Evening  at  Sea.  151 

air  of  such  transparent  purity  and  balminess,  that  the 
very  breathing  of  it  was  to  me  a  luxury  and  a  dehght. 
I  remained  for  hours  inhahng  the  delicious,  health- 
giving  atmosphere,  and  contemplating  the  scene 
before  me,  which  was  of  unsurpassed  beauty  and 
grandeur.  The  sombre  Ocean  with  her  depths  un- 
known lay  in  one  vast  "melancholy  waste"  before  me. 
The  throbbings  of  her  gigantic  heart  were  hushed  as 
if  by  some  magic  spell,  as  our  little  steamer  pursued 
its  almost  trackless  way  over  her  calm  unruffled  bosom, 
with  the  solemn  sky  above 

"  Like  a  blue  curtain  hung, 
And  studded  with  its  bright  star-geras 
As  diamonds  yet  unstrung." 

While  low  down  in  the  heavens  was  visible  in  all  its 
splendor,  through  the  soft  transparent  darkness,  that 
brilliant  cluster  of  stars  known  as  the  Southern  Cross, 
with  its  foot  apparently  almost  resting  on  the  earth. 
This  beautiful  constellation — this  bright  gem  in  "the 
dusky  tiara  of  night,"  is  invisible  in  our  latitude,  but 
is  here  revealed  in  all  its  beauty.  At  midnight  the 
cross  is  said  to  stand  erect,  but  as  the  night  wears  away 


152  Havana. 

it  begins  to  decline,  and  gradually  sinks  until  lost  to 
sight  beneath  the  horizon's  verge. 

When  I  retired  to  the  cabin,  I  found  it  occupied  by 
a  motle}^  assemblage  of  persons,  consisting  of  priests, 
officers,  tradesmen,  and  others  whose  exterior  gave 
no  evidence  of  their  occupation ;  but,  if  I  may  be 
allowed  the  Yankee  prerogative  of  "guessing,"  I 
should  say  that  many  of  them  were  dealers  in  cigars, 
or  excessive  smokers,  from  the  enormous  quantity  of 
"the  weed"  which  they  carried  with  them.  The 
man  of  substance,  whose  shadow  I  had  been  personi- 
fying, was  lazily  reclining  in  his  berth,  smoking  a 
cigar,  and  looked  the  very  picture  of  contentment 
and  good-nature  ;  so  much  so,  in  fact,  that  I  was  half 
inclined  to  doubt  his  being  a  native  of  the  island. 
Kear  him  was  seated  an  officer,  a  grave  Castilian, 
who  preserved  a  dignified  demeanor,  and  neither 
spoke  nor  noticed  those  by  whom  he  was  surrounded. 
Among  the  passengers  were  several  sallow-faced  priests, 
whose  barher-ousiy  denuded  heads  were  surmounted 
by  small  square  caps  of  black  silk.  They  were  all 
attired  in  the  sombre  garb  of  their  order,  and  were  re- 
markably quiet  and  unobtrusive  in  their  deportment. 


The  Wrong  Berth.  153 

The  heat  of  the  atmosphere,  together  with  the 
fames  of  tobacco  with  which  the  cabin  was  filled, 
began  to  produce  a  somnolent  effect  upon  me ;  con- 
sequently I  retired  to  my  berth,  and  after  arrang- 
ing my  musquito  net  about  me,  sought  communion 
with  the  drowsy  god  Morpheus.  I  had  but  just 
fallen  asleep  when  I  was  awakened  by  a  heavy  hand 
on  my  shoulder.  Starting  up,  I  beheld  standing 
over  me  a  fierce-looking  Spaniard,  with  a  Moorish 
complexion,  which,  by  the  dim  light  of  a  single 
lamp,  looked  black  and  defiant  as  a  jealous  Othello. 
He  was  talking  loudly,  and  apparently  much  excited. 
I  soon  discovered  that  /  was  the  innocent  cause  of 
this  fierce  ebullition  of  passion.  I  had  evidently  got 
into  the  wrong  berth ;  the  one  I  occupied  was  his  by 
Z>e?'//i-right,  but  mine  by  possession.  Finding  that  he 
could  not  make  me  understand  his  vernacular,  he 
left  the  cabin,  and  in  a  few  minutes  returned  with  one 
of  the  officers  of  the  vessel.  They  both  tried  by 
expressive  pantomime  and  unintelligible  Spanish,  to 
make  me  sensible  of  my  "  poaching  proclivities ;  " 
but  in  vain.     I  could  not  be  made  to  understand, — 

was  dull  of  comprehension, — as  stupid  as  Balaam's 

1 


154  Havana. 

ass,  and  would  not  be  moved  by  the  jaw-hone  even 
of  a  voluble  Spaniard.  To  their  oft  repeated  ha- 
rangues I  shook  my  head  and  repiied,  "  Me  Ameri- 
cano, no  Espanol,"  and  at  last  impudently  turned  mj 
back  to  them,  drew  the  bed-clothes  over  my  head, 
and  feigned  sleep.  They  remained  near  me  for  some 
time,  talking  in  an  excited  manner,  but  at  length 
their  voices  became  less  and  less  distinct,  and  finally 
died  away  in  the  distance. 

[  I  lay  for  awhile  perfectly  still,  but  at  length  re- 
moved the  covering  from  my  face,  opened  one  eye, 
and  cast  an  anxious  glance  at  the  foot  of  my  berth  to 
see  if  my  clothes  and  satchel  were  safe,  and  then  took 
a  survey  of  the  apartment.  A  number  of  men  were 
seated  at  a  table  playing  cards,  two  or  three  were 
dozing  in  their  chairs,  and  one  was  stretched  at  full 
length  on  the  floor,  his  head  pillowed  on  a  knapsack, 
and  snoring  loudly.  My  nervous  system  had  received 
such  a  shock  that  I  found  it  impossible  to  compose 
myself  to  sleep.  I  lay  the  remainder  of  the  night  in 
a  half-unconscious  state,  between  sleeping  and  waking, 
haunted  by  visions  of  gorgons,  ogres,  and  other  fabu- 
lous monsters.     At  daylight  our  steamer  was  safely 


Return  to  Havana.  15  J 

ancliored  in  the  harbor  of  Havana,  and  I  was  happy 
to  be  once  more  domiciled  beneath  the  comparatively 
hospitable  roof  of  the  Revere  Hotel,  being  satisfied 
with  my  somewhat  limited  acquaintance  with  Cuban 
society  and  scenery. 


LETTER    XI.  • 

Havana,  March,  1856. 
I  HAVE  as  yet  said  but  little  relative  to  the  cus- 
toms and  domestic  habits  of  the  Cubans,  who  are 
a  peculiar  people.  Though  of  more  mercurial 
temperaments  than  their  ancestors,  the  Moors  and 
Spaniards,  they  inherit  many  of  the  characteristics  of 
those  nations.  They  have  the  reputation  of  being 
crafty,  subtle,  and  intriguing  in  their  natures,  and 
exceedingly  lax  in  their  morals;  yet,  strange  as 
it  may  appear,  they  are,  with  few  exceptions,  an 
orderly,  law-obeying,  priest-fearing,  but  not  a  God- 
serving  people.  Notwithstanding  nearly  every  one 
goes  armed,  instances  of  assassinations  or  even  en- 
counters are  less  frequent  than  in  our  own  country. 
And  what  was  still  more  surprising  to  me,  they  are  ^ 
quite  temperate  both  in  eating  and  drinking.    I  have 

r 


Prevalence  of  Gambling.  1 5^7 

not  observed  a  single  instance  of  gross  and  manifest 
intoxication  among  the  inhabitants  during  my  stay 
on  the  island.  Their  principal  beverage  is  a  light, 
sour,  native  wine,  somewhat  resembling  Catalonian 
wane.  It  is  quite  acid,  but  not  inebriating  in  its 
effects,  unless  drunk  in  extravagant  quantities. 

The  prevalent  and  all-absorbing  vice  in  this  coun- 
try is  gambling.  This  passion  pervades  all  classes  of 
society,  from  the  noble  count,  with  his  broad  acres 
and  army  of  slaves,  to  the  native  peasant  and  humble 
artisan.  The  Plaza  de  Toros^  where  bull-fights  are 
held,  and  the  numerous  cock-pits  scattered  over  the 
island,  are  government  property,  from  which  the 
Crown  of  Spain  derives  no  inconsiderable  revenue. 
On  Sundays  and  high  festivals,  cock-fighting  and  bull- 
fis:htinor  offer  their  chief  attractions.  In  fact,  I  have 
been  told  that  the  law  regulating  these  amusements 
forbids  their  taking  place  on  any  other  days  than 
Sundays  and  religious  holidays.  Monte  is  the  popular 
game  of  cards  with  the  Cuban  peasantry,  who  spend 
many  an  idle  hour  stretched  upon  the  ground  beneath 
the  shade  of  some  favorite  tree,  engaged  in  this  seduc- 
tive amusement.     When  once  they  begin  to  play, 

4. 


S\ 


1 58  Havana. 

they  will  not  leave  off  as  long  as  either  has  a  peseta 
in  his  pocket,  or  a  camisa  on  his  back ;  and  they  fre- 
quently become  so  excited  in  the  game  as  to  stake 
their  entire  wardrobe  on  the  result,  leaving  one  of 
them  at  the  close  almost  in  puris  naturalibus,  that  is 
to  say,  with  but  little  more  covering  than  was  fur- 
nished him  by  Dame  Kature  when  he  was  first  ushered 
into  this  "breathing  world."  A  few  years  ago 
gambling  was  practised  here  as  openly  and  as  undis- 
guisedly  as  at  many  of  the  German  watering-places. 
But  I  learn  that  an  effort  is  being  made  by  the 
authorities  here  to  suppress  all  kinds  of  gambling, 
where  no  revenue  will  be  lost  to  the  government  by 
their  discontinuance.  Notwithstanding  this,  the  vice 
is  prevalent,  particularly  on  the  Sabbath  and  during 
the  Holy  days,  both  of  which  might  with  propriety 
be  termed  holidays.  For  there  is,  in  reality,  no  Sab- 
bath here;  no  day  of  physical  rest;  no  cessation 
from  labor;  no  abatement  of  pleasures.  From  the 
rising  of  the  sun  to  the  setting  of  the  same  (except 
during  midday),  even  to  a  late  hour  at  night,  it  is  one 
continued  round  of  excitement,  of  gaieties,  and 
amusements.     The  ringing  of  bells,  firing  of  cannon. 


A  Sabbath  at  Havana  159 

and  the  sound  of  martial  music  uslier  in  the  Sabbath 
morning.  The  various  shops  and  stores  are  open  as 
on  all  other  days.  The  theatre,  mascardda,  and  Plaza 
de  Toros,  are  made  a  specialite  on  that  occasion ; 
cries  are  heard  in  the  streets  from  the  venders  of 
fruits  and  vegetables ;  and  everything  pertaining  to 
business  or  pleasure  assumes  on  that  day  a  more  than 
ordinarily  busy  aspect.  How  entirely  unlike  a  Sabbath 
in  any  of  our  northern  towns,  and  how  at  variance 
with  the  sentiments  and  feelings  of  one  brought  up 
to  respect  that  holy  day.  And  yet  the  inhabitants 
all  seem  to  be  impressed  with  no  small  degree  of 
reverence  for  their  priests  and  their  religion.  The 
peasant  market-man,  with  his  long  line  of  heavily- 
laden  mules,  bows  his  head  and  makes  the  sign  of  the 
cross  when  he  passes  a  church ;  the  sable  calesero,  as 
he  dashes  by  with  his  mistress  in  her  volante,  lifts  his 
sombrero  reverentially ;  and  the  dirty,  half-clad 
native  children  are  taught  to  cease  from  playing,  and 
to  refrain  from  all  noise  or  merriment  when  they  are 
within  its  sacred  precincts. 

The  visitor  in  Havana  is  continually  reminded  of 
the  ubiquity  of  Ilomanism,  and  its  peculiar  influence 


i6o  Havana. 

on  the  minds  and  morals  of  the  people.  The  "  carry- 
ing of  the  Host"  through  the  streets  is  a  spectacle  of 
frequent  occurrence,  and  cannot  fail  to  inspire  one, 
particularly  at  night,  with  feelings  of  solemnity. 
The  tinkling  of  a  small  bell  usually  announces  the 
approach  of  the  Host,  when  every  good  Romanist 
within  its  sound  uncovers  his  head,  bends  his  knee, 
and  maintains  a  devotional  attitude  until  the  proces- 
sion has  passed  out  of  sight.  These  processions 
usually  consist  of  half-a-dozen  or  more  monks  or 
friars,  in  long  black  robes  (their  closely  shorn  heads 
exposed  without  a  cap  or  cowl),  and  a  motley  assem- 
blage of  men  and  boys  bareheaded,  and  carrying  in 
their  hands  long  wax  candles.  In  their  midst  is  a 
priest  bearing  the  consecrated  symbol,  to  administer 
to  some  dying  person.  The  number  of  lights  dis- 
played on  these  occasions,  and  the  extent  and  magni- 
ficence of  the  retinue,  are  usually  proportioned  to  the 
wealth  and  influence  of  the  invalid  or  his  family. 
Sometimes  the  priest  who  carries  the  sacred  Host 
rides  in  a  splendid  coach  drawn  by  four  horses  richly 
caparisoned  and  attended  by  outriders  in  livery,  and 
military  in  full  dress. 


Easter  Demonstration.  161 

Last  week  was  the  closing  of  Lent,  and  during 
Holy  Thursday  and  Good  Friday  a  more  than  Pro- 
testant Sabbath-day  stillness  reigned  throughout  this 
entire  city.     The  shops  were  all  closed,  the  flags  from 
the  public  buildings  lowered,  and  during  these  two 
days  not  a  volante  or  conveyance  of  any  kind  was 
allowed  in  the  streets.     The  "  carrying  of  the  dead 
Christ,"  and  the  annual  procession  of  the  priests  and 
military,   took  place  during  Good  Friday  afternoon 
and    evening ;    and   for  several   hours   the  various 
streets  in  the  vicinity  of  the  cathedral  were  thronged 
with  pedestrians ;  and  every  balcony  and  house-top, 
as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  was  densely  crowded 
with  women  and  children  waiting  to  see  this  pageant, 
which  was  evidently  considered  "  the  show  of  the 
season."     A  body  of  cavalry  with  prancing  steeds 
and  flashing  sabres,  prepared  the  way  for  the  proces- 
sion as  it  advanced.     A  martial  band  with  muffled 
drums  beating  time  to  a  funeral  march,  and  a  score 
or  two  of  negroes  in  long  black  robes  and  immaculate 
turbans,  and  carrying  blazing  torches,  led  the  way. 
Then  came  the  archbishops,  bishops,  and  high-priests 
in  their  canonical  robes,  followed  by  the  "  state  bed" 


i62  Havana. 

containing  a  wax  figure  representing  "  the  dead 
Christ."  Suspended  above  it  was  a  gorgeously  embroi- 
dered silken  canopy,  supported  by  four  intensely 
rouged  angels  dressed  in  ethereal  gauze,  bespangled 
with  imitation  diamonds.  This  state  bed  was  carried 
upon  the  heads  of  about  a  dozen  men,  whose  feet 
alone  were  visible,  their  bodies  being  entirely  hidden 
by  the  heavy  folds  of  the  voluminous  drapery. 
Next  in  the  procession  was  a  retinue  of  priests,  each 
carrying  a  long  wax  candle,  or  some  emblem  of 
the  passion  of  Christ.  In  their  midst  were  several 
richly  decorated  thrones  containing  the  "  Virgin 
Mother,"  "  Mary  Magdalene,"  and  others,  who  were 
elaborately  attired^  and  profusely  covered  with  tinsel 
and  artificial  flowers.  Then  came  a  large  body 
of  civilians,  in  black  dress-coats  and  white  gloves, 
followed  by  several  regiments  of  Spanish  soldiers 
with  their  arms  reversed  and  marching  with  slow 
and  measured  tread  to  the  dirge-like  music  of  their 
regimental  bands.  Last  in  the  procession,  but  not 
least  in  point  of  numbers,  were  the  unwashed  multi- 
tude, of  all  colors  and  castes,  who  fell  in  the  rear  as 
an  opportunity  offered,  adding  greatly  to  the  num- 


Tacon  Theatre.  163 

ber,  but  not  to  tlie  cliaractcr  of  this  great  Easter 
demonstration. 

The  next  day,  the  throne  containing  the  Virgin 
Mary  was  borne  with  great  pomp,  parade,  and  cere- 
mony, through  the  principal  streets  of  the  city,  until  it 
met  the  advancing  procession  with  the  image  of  the 
Saviour.  As  soon  as  Christ  was  found,  a  cannon  was 
fired  to  apprise  the  inhabitants  that  fasting  was  at  an 
end ;  flags  appeared  as  if  by  magic,  upon  all  the  public 
buildings ;  bells  were  rung,  guns  fired,  drums  beaten, 
and  every  conceivable  plan  adopted  to  make  a  noise. 
Yolantes  appeared  in  the  streets  ;  negroes  and  Creoles 
rushed  wildly  about,  shouting  and  rejoicing ;  and 
a  universal  jubilee  and  jollification  at  once  began. 

The  next  evening  I  went  with  a  party  of  American 
naval  officers  to  the  Teatro  de  Tacon^  which  was  then 
open  for  the  first  time  since  the  beginning  of  Lent. 
This  celebrated  theatre  is  on  the  Paseo  Isabel,  and 
nearly  opposite  the  Monserrate  gate,  the  principal 
entrance  to  the  city.  The  exterior  of  the  Tacon  is 
not  particularly  attractive,  but  the  interior  is  light, 
airy,  well  arranged  for  that  climate,  and  very  capa- 
cious, it  being  one  of  the  largest  theatres  in  America. 


1 64  Havana.^ 

Here  we  witnessed  a  display  of  the  ubiquitous 
soldiery.  A  company  with  glistening  bayonets  were 
stationed  outside  the  door.  Within,  were  jaunty  little 
soldiers  in  white  uniforms,  who  strutted  about,  shov- 
ing the  Creoles,  and  making  way  for  gold-laced  digni- 
taries ;  while  officers  in  military  undress  were  to  be 
seen  in  all  parts  of  the  house,  imparting  to  the 
audience  a  half-military  and  half-festive  appearance. 

If  there  were  any  "  stars"  in  the  dramatic  horizon 
that  evening,  they  were  not,  I  opine,  of  the  "  first 
magnitude  ;"  at  least,  they  did  not  appear  to  dazzle 
the  audience  with  their  brilliancy,  or  to  excite  in 
them  either  mirthful  or  lachrymal  emotions..  For  an 
interlude,  we  had  an  animated  dissertation  on  the 
poetry  of  motion  from  one  of  the  corps  de  lallet, 
which  created  quite  a  sensation  among  the  apprecia- 
tive portion  of  the  audience,  who  were  noisily  demon- 
strative, as  much  to  our  annoyance  as  to  the  delight 
of  the  smiling  danzdnta,  whom  they  assailed  with 
bouquets,  until  the  stage  was  almost  covered  with 
these  floral  evidences  of  their  admiration, 

I  was  very  much   surprised   at   the    enthusiasm 
created  by  this  votary  of  Terpsichore,  for  she   was 


A  Danseuse.  165 

by  no  means  a  proficient  in  the  saltatory  art,  neither 
was  she  young,  or  particularly  attractive  in  person. 
Her  eyes  were  not  of  a  celestial  blue,  or  like 

"  The  stars  of  a  soft  summer  night, 
So  darkly  beautiful,  so  deeply  bright." 

Her  teeth  were  not  as  Orient  pearls,  or  her  lips  like 
two  rosebuds  growing  on  one  stem.  Her  hair,  though 
abundant,  was  not  as  glossy  as  the  raven's  plumage, 
or  "  as  soft  as  the  down  that  swells  the  cygnet's  nest." 
Keither  was  hers 

"  A  pure,  transparent,  pale,  and  radiant  flice. 
Like  to  a  liglited  alabaster  vase." 

Her  feet  were  not  as  delicate  as  a  fairy's,  or  her  form 
as  symmetrical  as  a  sylph's,  but^  like  the  sailor's  wife 
at  Wapping,  she  was  "fat  and  forty,"  but  not  fair. 
She  was  rather  above  the  medium  height,  with  a  well 
developed  jpliysique^  and  a  decidedly  gipsy  counte- 
nance. Her  hair  was  drawn  back  very  unbecomingly 
behind  her  ears,  displaying  high  cheek  bones,  and  a 
complexion  too  ruddy  to  be  beautiful.  If  hers  was  a 
"  Spanish  beauty/'  it  did  not  by  any  means  please  our 
Anglo-Saxon  fancy ;  and  if  she  was  an  artist  of  much 


i66  Havana. 

merit,  we  Americanos  were  too  obtuse,  or  unskilled  in 
"  the  divine  art,"  to  discover  it. 

The  private  boxes  in  this  theatre  are  inclosed  by 
light  ornamental  lattice-work,  and  it  is  customary  for 
the  audience,  during  the  intermission,  to  wander 
through  the  cool  passage-ways  outside  of  the  boxes, 
and  to  stop  and  gaze  on  the  fair  occupants  within 
a  volonie.  Instead  of  being  annoyed  or  displeased  at 
this  seemingly  impertinent  curiosity,  the  ladies  are 
said  to  be  rather  gratified  than  otherwise  at  such 
attentions  from  strangers,  which  they  construe  into 
evidences  of  admiration. 

I  was  not  a  little  surprised  to  see,  in  one  of  the 
finest  private  boxes  in  the  theatre,  my  landlady  of  the 
Eevere.  She  was  elegantly  dressed,  ornate  with 
jewels,  and  attended  by  her  cavalier,  a  gentleman  I 
had  frequently  seen  at  the  hotel,  though  ignorant  of 
his  name  or  occupation.  I  subsequently  learned  that 
it  was  Madame's  ambition  to  occupy  one  of  the 
most  expensive  and  conspicuous  boxes  at  the  Tacon, 
and  to  excel  in  the  splendor  of  her  apparel  her  more 
opulent  and  aristocratic  neighbors.  Having  suffi- 
ciently  gratified  our  curiosity,    we   left  the   theatre 


*  Bal  Masque.  167 

before  the  performances  were  over.  As  I  passed 
through  the  doorway,  I  unintentionally  jostled  a  sol- 
dier on  duty,  who  looked  daggers  at  me  in  Spanish  ; 
but  being  in  a  hurry,  I  did  not  wait  for  an  interpreta- 
tion, presuming  that  it  would  not  be  very  flattering 
to  my  vanity,  or  particularly  euphonious  to  "ears 
polite." 

At  a  cafe  near  by,  where  we  discussed,  over  our 
chocolate  and  cigars,  the  evening's  entertainment,  we 
met  a  resident  American  acquaintance,  who  proposed 
taking  us  to  a  Bal  Masque  not  far  distant.  We  gladly 
accepted  his  invitation,  as  none  of  our  party  had  ever 
seen  a  Cuban  mascardda — that  class  of  amusements 
having  been  discontinued  during  Lent.  Under  the 
guidance  of  our  friend,  who  was  familiar  with  the 
Spanish  language  and  the  "  institutions"  of  this  city, 
we  repaired  to  the  Plaza  de  Mascaras^  or  place  of 
masks.  Having  procured  our  tickets  at  the  door,  we 
were  admitted  into  a  large  but  dimly-lighted  room  on 
the  second  floor,  where  about  a  hundred  persons  of 
both  sexes  were  assembled.  Many  of  the  men  had 
cigars  in  their  mouths,  and  some  smoked  while  danc- 
ing.    A  few  of  the  other  sex  held  small,  cigarettes 


i68  Havana.  • 

between  their  fingers,  whicli  they  would  occasionally 
place  to  their  lips  and  puff  out  minute  volumes  of  fra- 
grant smoke.     At  one  end  of  the  room,  on  an  elevated 
platform,   were  the   musicians,   with   three   or  four 
stringed  instruments,  a  horn,  and  a  bass  drum.     The 
dancing  had  not  commenced  when  we  arrived,  so  that 
We  had   an   opportunity  to  inspect  the  audience  in 
quiesco.     Most  of  the  women  were  dressed,  or  rather 
half  dressed   (for  their  necks   and   shoulders    were 
shockingly  nude)  in  plain-colored  barege  or  tarlatan, 
with  a  light  mantle,  of  some  dark  material,  to  throw 
over  them  at  pleasure.     Some  had  their  faces  entirely 
concealed ;  but  the  youngest  and  evidently  best-look- 
ing wore  small  silk  vizors  or  demi-masks,  hiding  just 
enough  of  the  face  to  give  piquancy  to  the  rest,  and 
to  create  in  the  spectator  a  desire  to  see  more.    Those 
wearing  dominoes,  or  fully  masked,  were  supposed  to 
be  females  of  doubtful  personal  attractions,  or  whose 
position  in  society  induced  them  to  preserve  a  strict 
incognito;  for  it  would  be  damaging  to  the  reputation 
of  any  lady  of  respectability  to  be  seen  in  such  a  place. 
Still,  it  is  not  probable  that  many  go  there  who  have 
any  character  or  reputation  to  lose.    A  tolerably  gen- 


Opening  of  the  Ball.  169 

tcel  appearance,  and  money  enough  to  huy  a  ticket,  are 
all  that  is  necessary  to  obtain  admission ;  consequently, 
men  of  all  conditions  in  life,  from  the  aristocratic  7'owe 
to  the  humble  mechanic  and  cigar- vender,  patronize 
and  participate  in  these  midnight  entertainments. 

Soon  after  eleven  o'clock  the  band  began  to  tune 
their  instruments,  which  was  the  signal  for  opening 
the  ball.  All  was  excitement  among  the  Habaneros, 
who  rushed  here  and  there  in  pursuit  of  their  partners, 
and  as  soon  as  possible  secured  a  place  on  the  floor. 
"When  all  the  available  space  was  occupied,  the  music 
struck  up,  and  the  multitude  rushed  into  the  whirling 
vortex  of  the  waltz  with  an  abandon  characteristic  of  a 
people  who  do  nothing  with  moderation — not  even  the 
conducting  of  their  religious  worship  and  holy-day  ob- 
servances. The  floor  shook  with  the  accumulated 
weight  and  motion  of  the  numerous  dancers,  as  they 
moved  around  the  room,  swaying  to  and  fro  in  each 
other's  embrace  with  a  kind  of  delirious  excitement,  as  if 
their  senses  were  intoxicated  with  passion  and  delight ; 

" and  when 

Music  arose  with  its  voluptuous  swell 

Soft  eyes  looked  love  to  eyes  that  spoke  again." 


1  yo  Havana. 

During  a  pause  in  the  dancing,  we  mingled  with 
the  crowd,  being  desirous,  during  our  brief  staj  here, 
to  see  as  much  as  possible  of  this  peculiar  phase  of 
Cuban  life.  It  was  evident  that  our  party  was  creat- 
ing quite  a  sensation  among  the  audience,  as  there 
were  several  fine-looking  officers  in  their  showy  uni- 
forms, which  usually  attract  the  eyes  of  the  ladies, 
at  home  and  abroad.  They  were  frowned  upon  by 
the  jealous  senors,  but  received  many  a  sidelong 
glance  and  significant  look  from  the  fair  senoritas, 
who,  under  pretence  of  arranging  a  stray  lock  of  hair, 
or  some  similar  device,  would  occasionally  remove 
their  masks  sufficiently  for  us  to  see  their  faces. 
Several  times  during  the  evening,  the  Cuban  ladies 
expressed  to  our  Spanish- American  acquaintance  a 
desire  to  waltz  with  the  "elegantes  Americanos;" 
which  honor  was  respectfully  declined. 

As  it  waxed  far  into  the  cigar-scented  night,  the 
mirth  became  more  hilarious,  and  the  dust  from  the 
sanded  floor,  with  the  smoke  from  innumerable 
cigars,  imparted  a  sort  of  nebulous  tinge  to  the  atmo- 
sphere. It  was  almost  a  saturnalia ;  and  the  view 
from  the  background,  through  the  dim  perspective, 


Saturnalia.  171 

was  strangely  suggestive  of  those  gloomy  mytholo- 
gical regions  so  graphically  described  by  the  old  Latin 
poets.  About  half-past  twelve  we  took  our  departure, 
having  sufficiently  gratified  our  curiosity,  and  added 
a  few  more  items  to  our  repertory  of  Cuban  usages 
and  customs.  I  was  glad  to  get  back  to  my  compara- 
tively quiet  room  at  the  Eevere,  being  full  to  satiety 
of  dust  and  tobacco-smoke,  and  weary  of  looking  at 
beautiful  human  forms  without  human  faces,  and 
listening  to 

" the  lascivious  tinklings 

Of  lulUng  instruments,  the  softening  voices 

Of  women,  and  of  beings  less  than  women." 
******** 


LETTER    XII. 

Havana,  April,  1856. 

This  is  my  last  night  in  Havana.  To-morrow 
morning,  Providence  permitting,  I  shall  bid  adieu  to 
this  gem  of  the  southern  seas,  beautiful  Cuba. 
Her  cane-covered  fields  ;  her  vine- clad  hills ;  her  aro- 
matic groves;  her  luscious  fruits,  I  leave  without 
regret;  they  are  to  me  no  longer  "a  feeling  and  a 
love."  I  have  become  weary  with  star-gazing  and 
sight-seeing,  surfeited  with  priests  and  pageantry, 
and  disgusted  with  Spanish  despotism  and  the  odious 
aroma  of  garlic  and  cigar-smoke,  which  everywhere 
pervades  the  atmosphere  of  human  habitations.  I 
sigh  once  more  for  Columbia's  happy  land,  with  her 
free  institutions  and  republican  form  of  government, 
where  liberty  of  speech  and  freedom  of  action  are 
allowed ;  and  I  sincerely  hope,  if  ever  again  I  visit 


Religious  Intolerance.  173 

this  beautiful  but  ill-governed  island,  that  some  other 
flag  more  suggestive  of  freedom  will  wave  from  her 
hill-tops  and  towers. 

Religious  intolerance  is  a  distinctive  characteristic 
of  this  government.  They  are  even  less  liberal  here 
than  in  many  parts  of  the  mother  country.  Protes- 
tant worship  is  permitted  in  Madrid,  but  not  here; 
neither  are  its  doctrines — which  are  antagonistic  to 
despotism — allowed  to  be  disseminated  on  this  island. 
The  British  and  American  consuls  at  Havana  have 
applied  for  permission  to  hold  religious  worship  in 
their  houses  on  the  Sabbath,  without  avail ;  and  were 
it  not  for  occasional  services  on  foreign  vessels  in  the 
harbor,  visitors  would  have  no  opportunity  to  hear 
Protestant  preaching. 

I  attended  worship  a  few  Sabbaths  ago  on  board  of 
a  British  man-of-war  called  the  Powerful,  which  was 
anchored  in  the  bay  about  a  mile  from  the  landing, 
and  beyond  the  jurisdiction  of  popery.  The  com- 
mander, with  true  English  politeness,  sent  his  private 
barge  for  our  party,  and  we  were  rowed  to  the  vessel 
by  six  "jolly  tars"  dressed  in  their  Sunday  suits  of 
immaculate  blue  and  white.     The  "  Powerful"  is  an 


1 74  Havana. 

eighty-four  gun  ship,  with  a  complement  of  seven 
hundred  and  fifty  men,  including  officers,  marines, 
and  sailors;  all  of  whom,  except  those  on  duty, 
attended  service,  and  were  as  quiet  and  orderly  as  any 
congregation  I  ever  saw.  The  music  was  solemn, 
grand,  and  peculiarly  impressive.  A  fine  marine 
band  was  a  substitute  for  an  organ  ;  while  the  clear 
tenor  and  rich  soprano  voices  of  the  young  boys  of 
the  naval  school,  harmonizing  with  the  deep  bass  and 
diapason  tones  of  those  more  advanced  in  years,  com- 
bined to  make  a  full  and  effective  choir. 

I  was  introduced  by  one  of  our  party,  an  Episcopal 
clergyman  of  Boston,  to  the  officiating  chaplain,  who 
very  politely  accompanied  us  about  the  ship,  visiting  the 
various  apartments  of  this  "Leviathan  of  the  deep," 
which  was  almost  a  Sabbath-day's  journey.  We  found 
ourselves  very  much  fatigued  from  going  down  and 
up  so  many  flights  of  stairs,  and  very  gladly  accepted 
our  clerical  friend's  invitation  to  repair  to  his  study 
and  partake  of  refreshments,  which  we  found  already 
prepared.  The  time  passed  so  pleasantly,  that  it  was 
quite  late  in  the  day  when  we  took  our  departure. 

The  next  Sabbath  I  attended  divine  service  on 


Protestant  Services.  175 

board  of  the  United  States  flag-ship  Potomac,  which 
is  now  here  awaiting  sailing  orders  from  our  govern- 
ment. The  Rev.  E.  H.  Renouf,  from  Boston,  preached 
on  the  occasion,  and  gave  us  a  plain,  practical,  or- 
thodox sermon,  without  any  affectation,  or  labored 
attempt  at  rhetorical  display.  He  preached  love  to 
God  and  good-will  to  all  men,  dwelling  especially  on 
that  greatest  of  all  rarities,  "  Christian  charity ;"  and 
his  whole  discourse  was  replete  with  such  pure,  unsel- 
fish, evangelical  sentiments,  as  could  not  fail  to  meet 
the  approval  of  all  denominations.  The  services 
were  similar  to  those  on  board  of  the  British  man-of- 
war,  except  that  prayers  were  offered  for  the  President 
of  the  United  States,  instead  of  her  most  gracious 
Majesty,  Queen  Victoria. 

There  are  quite  a  number  of  American  vessels  now 
in  this  harbor,  and  the  stars  and  stripes  of  our 
glorious  republic  float  triumphantly  in  the  breeze, 
and  the  American  Eagle  is  emblazoned  on  the  uni- 
forms of  scores  whom  I  meet  every  day,  imparting,  as 
it  were,  a  kind  of  energy  and  vitality  to  this  land, 
scorched  and  dried  up  by  the  withering  sirocco  of 
Spanish  misrule  and  papal  despotism.   -^^   *   *  * 


iy6  Havana. 

The  next  day,  after  the  closing  of  Lent,  a  bull- fight 
was  announced  to  take  place  in  Havana  in  honor 
of  the  return  of  his  Excellency  General  Concha,  who 
had  been  absent  from  the  city  about  a  month.  I 
resolved  to  attend,  as  it  might  be  the  only  oppor- 
tunity I  would  ever  have  to  witness  one  of  these 
exhibitions.  But  I  will  here  say  in  extenuation — if 
any  excuse  or  apology  is  necessary — that  it  was  the 
most  disgustingly  brutal  sight  that  I  ever  beheld,  and 
nothing  could  ever  induce  me  to  witness  a  repetition. 

The  Plaza  de  Toros  is  situated  nearly  a  mile  beyond 
the  walls  of  the  city.  Our  party  consisted  of  Dr.  C. 
and  young  Mr.  L.  from  the  States,  who  were  stopping 
at  the  Eevere,  and  five  or  six  of  the  ofiicers  belonging 
to  the  Potomac.  We  took  volantes  at  the  hotel,  and 
soon  found  ourselves  at  the  entrance  to  the  grounds 
of  the  Plaza,  in  the  midst  of  a  motley  crowd  of 
Spaniards  and  natives,  who  were  rushing  towards  the 
ticket-office  shouting  "  Boleta,"  and  holding  in  their 
extended  hands  the  coin  requisite  for  admission. 
Having  procured  our  tickets  in  advance,  we  lost  no 
time  in  elbowing  our  way  to  the  door,  where  we 
found  the  rest  of  our  party,  who  had  preceded  us. 


Plaza  de  Toros.  177 

Passing  between  a  file  of  Spanish  soldiers,  we  soon 
found  ourselves  witliin  an  extensive  amphitheatre, 
around  which  were  rows  of  covered  seats  rising  one 
above  the  other,  and  capable  of  holding  several  thou- 
sand spectators.  The  arena  for  the  exhibition  was 
an  open  space  of  nearly  half  an  acre ;  around  the 
outside  at  regular  intervals,  were  a  number  of  strong 
wooden  barriers,  formed  by  heavy  posts  driven  into 
the  ground,  behind  which  the  combatants  could  take 
refuge  when  pursued  by  the  infuriated  bulls.  The 
audience  was  large,  comprising  all  grades,  sexes,  and 
colors — from  the  captain-general  and  his  family,  in 
their  ornamented  box,  to  the  swarthy  mule-driver 
from  the  mountains,  who  occupied  with  his  dame  or 
sweetheart  a  sto?!^?^^  just  outside  the  barriers.  There 
were  beautiful  ladies  richly  attired  and  languishing 
beneath  glittering  diamonds  and  other  personal  deco- 
rations, and  lovely  children  of  the  nobility,  so  very 
young  as  to  be  carried  in  the  arms  of  their  sable 
attendants. 

The  signal  flag  was  hoisted,  a  trumpet  blast  heard, 
and  the  vast  multitude  were  wild  with  excitement, 

as  the  various  actors  in  the  drama  (or  rather  tragedy) 

8 


lyS  Havana. 

entered  the  arena  in  a  procession.     First  came  the 
master   of  ceremonies,    dressed  in   ancient   Spanish 
costume,  followed  by  six  or  eight  picadors — villanoiis 
looking  fellows,  mounted  on  miserable  old  hack-horses 
blindfolded,  and  so  very  poor  that  it  was  apparently 
with  considerable  difficulty  that  they  supported  their 
riders.     These  picadors  carried  long  spears  in  their 
hands,  and  were  attired  in  fanciful  livery  bedizened 
w^ith  tarnished  lace  and  faded  ribbons.     Their  legs 
were  encased  in  leather  breeches  stuffed  with  some 
impenetrable  material  to  protect  them  from  the  horns 
of  the  bulls,  giving  them  the  clumsy  look  of  a  jack- 
booted  postillion.     These  men  are  a  necessary  appen- 
dage to  this  species  of  amusement — a  kind  of  "  forlorn 
hope,"  being  compelled  to  bear  the  brunt  and  danger 
of    the    contest.      Kext    in    order   were  the   chulos 
or    combatants    on    foot,    fantastically   dressed   and 
carrying  in  their  hands  barbed  arrows,  javelins,  and 
other  instruments  of  torture,  to  be  used  on  the  occa- 
sion.    After  these,  came  the  matadors  or  killers,  with 
their  long  slender  basket-hilted  swords,  which  they 
use  to  terminate   the   existence  of  the   unfortunate 
bulls  when  they  can  no  longer  afford  amusement  to 


A  Bull-fight.  179 

the  spectators.     These  matadors  are  sometimes  men 
of  considerable  celebrity  in  their  profession,  and  are 
by  far  the  most  skilful  of  the  different  combatants. 
They  are  often  regularly  educated  to  the  profession 
in  their  youth,  and  some  of  them  are  graduates  of  the 
old  Castilian  schools  of  Tauromachy.     Last  in  the 
procession,    was  a  mule-team,  gaily  caparisoned,  and 
animated  by  the  sound  of  tinkling  bells  around  their 
necks,  which  was  employed  to  drag  the  slaughtered 
animals    from    the    arena.     The    procession   passed 
around  the  ring  to  salute  the  captain-general,  and  the 
other  dignitaries  present,  and  to  receive  the  congratu- 
lations of  the  expectant  multitude ;  and  then,  all  but 
the  chulos  and  two  or  three  of  the  picadors  left  the 
inclosure. 

The  trumpet  again  sounded,  the  gates  were  thrown 
open,  and  a  large  native  bull  rushed  into  the  amphi- 
theatre, amid  the  shouts  of  the  enthusiastic  spectators, 
who  waved  their  hats,  handkerchiefs,  and  scarf:^,  in  a 
perfect  frenzy  of  excitement  and  exultation.  The 
noble  animal  appeared,  at  first,  bew^ildered,  and  appa- 
rently undecided  how  to  act.  He  turned  his  head  in 
every  direction,  and  scanned  his  foes,  who  were  drawn 


i8o  Havana. 

up  in  battle  array  at  the  further  side  of  the  ring.  Soon 
he  began  to  snuff  the  air,  lash  his  sides  with  his  tail, 
and  tear  up  the  ground  with  his  hoofs.  At  length, 
with  a  sudden  bound,  he  rushed  furiously  against  the 
nearest  picador^  who  sat  on  his  trembling  Eozinante 
with  his  lance  in  his  hand,  poised  and  ready  to  strike. 
The  sharp  weapon  pierced  the  bull's  neck,  and  kept 
him  for  a  moment  at  bay.  The  withdrawal  of  the 
lance  was  followed  by  a  stream  of  blood  which 
deluged  the  ground.  The  bull  then  retreated  to  the 
opposite  side  of  the  ring,  turned  his  face  towards  his 
enemies,  and  appeared  as  if  he  were  disposed  to  act  on 
the  defensive.  Several  toreros  now  approached  him 
from  different  directions ;  the  one  in  front  engaged  his 
attention  by  flashing  in  his  face  a  red  scarf  or  shawl, 
while  the  others  pierced  his  sides  with  small  javelins, 
which  were  left  to  rankle  in  the  flesh.  This  guerilla 
mode  of  warfare  so  exasperated  the  animal,  that  he 
turned  on  his  tormentors,  who  hastily  retreated  behind 
the  barriers.  He  then  made  for  the  nearest  picador^ 
and  thrusting  his  sharp  horns  into  the  horse's  belly, 
lifted  from  the  ground  both  horse  and  rider,  and 
turned  them  completely  over — the  luckless  picador 


The  Coup  de  Grace.  181 

underneath.  The  enraged  bull  was  with  difficulty 
drawn  off,  and  the  wounded  man  dragged  from  under 
the  horse,  which  lay  struggling  in  the  agonies  of  death. 
The  bull  again  retreated ;  the  purple  gore  streamed 
from  gaping  wounds,  and  his  body  was  covered  all 
over  with  sweat  and  foam.  Worn  down  by  the  strug- 
gle, weary  and  faint  from  loss  of  blood,  he  soon  began 
to  writhe  and  tremble  from  weakness. 

Another  blast  from  the  trumpet  brought  into  the  in- 
closure  a  matador  to  try  his  '"prentice  hand"  at  killing, 
for  the  bull  was  now  to  be  despatched.     But  the  fellow 
proved  to  be  a  mere  novice,  and  made  several  unsuc- 
cessful attempts  to  inflict  a  mortal  wound,  which  eli- 
cited a  storm  of  groans  and  hisses  from  the  angry 
spectators,  who  would  not  cease  until  he  retired  from 
the  arena.     Soon  a  favorite  matador  was  announced, 
who  sprang  into  the  ring  and  gracefully  bowed  amid 
the  cheers  and  loud  vivas  of  the  excited  multitude. 
He  was  slightly  yet  symmetrically  formed,  and  as  agile 
and  graceful  in  his  movements  as  a  French  dancing- 
master.     He  wore  a  cap  of  black  velvet,  with  a  sable 
plume,  and  a  close-fitting  jacket,  which  was  profusely 
ornamented  with  gilt  and  embroidery,  while  a  crimson 


1 82  Havana. 

scarf  girded  his  almost  feminine  waist.  As  soon  as  the 
acclamations  of  the  audience  ceased,  the  matador  ap- 
proached the  bull,  which  had  apparently  regained  a 
portion  of  his  former  vigor,  notwithstanding  his  recent 
depletion,  and  shaking  a  scarf  in  his  face,  so  excited 
the  rage  of  the  animal  that  he  made  a  plunge  at  the  in- 
trepid Spaniard,  who  received  him  on  the  point  of  his 
sword,  and  buried  it  to  the  hilt  between  his  shoulders. 
The  bull  gave  one  convulsive  spring,  carrying  the 
sword  in  his  body,  and  almost  instantly  expired.  The 
whole  audience  arose  simultaneously,  and  amid  the 
plaudits  and  congratulations  of  the  men,  and  a  shower 
of  bouquets  from  the  ladies,  the  delighted  matador^ 
with  his  hand  on  his  heart,  bowed  himself  out  of  the 
inclosure.  Then  the  four-mule  team,  which  was  so 
conspicuous  in  the  opening  procession,  reappeared, 
and  the  dead  carcasses  of  the  horse  and  bull  were 
dragged  from  the  arena  amid  the  music  of  the  band 
and  the  shouts  of  the  jubilant  multitude.      . 

During  our  stay,  several  other  bulls  were  brought 
in  and  attacked  in  a  similar  manner,  with  but  slight 
variation  in  the  details;  and  a  horse  was  killed  or 
fatally  wounded  at  every  encounter.     Some  of  the 


Brutal  Torture.         .  18:1 


3 


bulls  were  more  fierce  than  tlie  one  I  have  just  de- 
scribed ;  others  were  not  so  valiant,  but  appeared  to 
be  frightened  at  the  discordant  noise  of  the  populace, 
and  would  not  come  to  the  attack.     In  that  case,  a 
chub  approached,  and  shook  his  red  scarf  in  the  face 
of  the  bull  to  inspire  him,  if  possible,  with  pugnacious 
sentiments.     Should  this  fail  to  produce  the  desired 
effect,  they  would  launch  at  him  numerous  projectiles 
— in  shape  like  a  javelin — to  the  barbed  point  of  which 
is  attached  a  detonating  preparation,  which  explodes 
the  moment  it  penetrates  the  flesh  of  the  animal,  caus- 
ing him  to  plunge,  and  writhe,  and  bellow  in  agony. 
Some  would  tear  frantically  around  the  arena,  throw 
themselves  on  the  ground,  and  try  in  every  possible 
way  to  detach  these   instruments   of  torture,  which 
were  burning  and  rankling  in  their  flesh ;  "the  smoke 
of  their  torment "  filling  the  air,  and  adding  to  the 
horror  of  the  scene.     Any  extraordinary  manifesta- 
tion of  suffering  on  the  part  of  the  poor  persecuted 
animal  was  provocative  of  loud  laughter  and  bois- 
terous merriment  from  the  spectators,  many  of  whom 
seemed  really  to  delight  in  its  sufferings. 

Becoming  diso-usted  with  the  brutal  and  senseless 


'o   ^'"-^o 


1 84  Havana. 

exhibition,  we  left  some  time  before  it  was  concluded. 
I  was  desirous  of  retiring  during  the  first  intermission ; 
but  my  friends  prevailed  on  me  to  remain  a  little 
longer,  hoping  that  time  would  develop  some  new 
and  more  attractive  feature  in  the  exhibition.  It  is 
strange  that  any  person  possessing  the  ordinary  feel- 
ings of  humanity  can  tolerate  such  acts  of  cruelty ; 
and  that  females  of  apparent  delicacy  and  refinement 
can  witness  and  take  pleasure  in  such  brutal  specta- 
cles, is,  to  me,  perfectly  unaccountable.  It  is  certainly 
an  indication  that  the  finer  and  better  feelings  of  their 
natures  are  blunted,  and  their  sensibilities  impaired,  if 
their  morals  are  not  corrupted. 

A  few  evenings  since,  I  attended  a  theatrical  exhi- 
bition on  board  of  the  Potomac,  got  up  by  the  offi- 
cers and  crew  for  their  own  amusement.  There  were 
thirty  or  forty  visitors  present,  who,  with  the  crew, 
made  quite  a  large  audience.  It  was  a  ver}^  creditable 
and  highly  interesting  amateur  performance,  although 
I  believe  that  two  or  three  of  the  actors  on  this  occa- 
sion had  once  been  connected  with  the  stage.  The 
first  play  on  the  programme  was  the  historical  drama 
of  "  Charles  XII."     This  was  followed  by  an  original 


A  Boat  Row  at  Midnight.  185 

Ethiopian  extravaganza,  in  which  the  ''  excruciating 
opera"  and  the  ''  high-falutin'  ballet"  were  successfully 
burlesqued.  During  the  intermission,  a  few  of  us 
were  invited  into  the  officers'  cabin  to  partake  of 
liquid  refreshments  and  cigars.  The  evening's  enter- 
tainment ended  with  an  amusing  farce,  written  by  one 
of  the  crew,  in  which  were  introduced  some  hits  of  a 
local  nature  that  were  highly  enjoyed  by  the  audience. 

It  was  past  the  *' noon  of  night"  before  we-  all 
reached  the  shore,  having  to  be  rowed  in  small  boats 
for  nearly  a  mile.  I  enjoyed  the  trip  exceedingly,  as 
the  evening  was  serene  and  beautiful,  the  air  soft  and 
balmy,  and  the  full-orbed  silver  moon  was  high  in  the 
heavens,  with  her  bright  face  mirrored  in  the  deep 
waters  of  the  quiet  bay  over  which  we  were  noise- 
lessly gliding.  The  phosphorescent  light  emitted  by 
the  water,  as  our  boat  ruffled  its  placid  surface,  with 
flakes  of  silver  dropping  from  the  oars,  and  the  trail- 
ing wake  of  silvery  effulgence  we  left  behind,  was  to 
me  a  novel  and  exceedingly  beautiful  sight.     *    *    * 

In  closing  my  crude  and  desultory  remarks  con- 
cerning this  land  ''ordained   of  Heaven  the  fairest 

spot  on  earth,"  I  cannot  do  better  than  express  the 

8* 


1 86  Havana. 

sentiments  of  a  writer  of  some  note,  who  has  recently 
visited  this  country  and  given  his  impressions  to  the 
public*     He  says: — 

"  If  it  were  possible  to  contemplate  only  the  beau- 
ties that  nature  has  so  prodigally  lavished  on  this 
Eden  of  the  Gulf,  shutting  out  all  that  man  has  done 
and  is  still  doing  to  mar  the  blessings  of  Heaven,  then 
a  residence  in  Cuba  would  present  a  succession  of  un- 
alloyed pleasures  equal  to  a  poet's  dream.  But  it  is 
impossible,  even  if  it  would  be  desirable,  to  exclude 
the  dark  side  of  the  picture.  The  American  traveller, 
keenly  alive  to  the  social  and  political  aspects  of  life, 
appreciates  in  full  force  the  evils  that  challenge  his 
observation  at  every  step,  and  in  every  view  which  he 
may  take.  If  he  contrasts  the  natural  scenery  with 
the  familiar  pictures  of  home,  he  cannot  help  also  con- 
trasting the  political  condition  of  the  people  with  that 
of  his  own  country.  The  existence,  almost  under  the 
shadow  of  the  flag  of  the  freest  institutions  the  earth 
ever  knew,  of  a  government  as  purely  despotic  as  that 
of  the  autocrat  of  the  Russias,  is  a  monstrous  fact  that 

*  "  History  of  Cuba,  by  M.  M.  Ballou ;"  to  which  I  am  indebted 
for  much  valuable  statistical  information  relative  to  that  country. 


Striking  Contrast  187 

startles  tlie  most  indifferent  observer.   It  must  be  seen 
to  be  realized. 

"  To  go  hence  to  Cuba,  is  not  merely  passing  over 
a  few  degrees  of  latitude  in  a  few  days'  sail, — it  is  a 
step  from  the  nineteenth  century  back  into  the  dark 
ages.  In  the  clime  of  sun  and  endless  summer,  we 
are  in  the  land  of  starless  political  darkness.  Lying 
under  the  lee  of  a  land  where  every  man  is  a  sove- 
reign, is  a  realm  where  the  lives,  liberties,  and  for- 
tunes of  all  are  held  at  the  tenure  of  the  will  of  a 
single  individual,  and  whence  not  a  single  murmur  of 
complaint  can  reach  the  ear  of  the  nominal  ruler  more 
than  a  thousand  leagues  away  in  another  hemisphere. 
In  close  proximity  to  a  country  where  the  taxes,  self- 
imposed,  are  so  light  as  to  be  almost  unfelt,  is  one 
where  each  free  family  pays  nearly  four  hundred  dol- 
lars per  annum  for  the  support  of  a  bigoted  tyranny, 
yielding  in  the  aggregate  an  annual  revenue  of  twen- 
ty-five mallions  of  dollars,  for  which  they  receive  no 
equivalent,  no  representation,  no  utterance — for  pen 
and  tongue  are  alike  proscribed — no  honor,  no  office, 
no  emolument ;  where  their  industry  is  crippled,  their 
intercourse  with  other  nations  hampered  in  every  way. 


i88  Havana. 

their  bread  literally  snatched  from  their  lips,  the  free- 
dom of  education  denied,  and  every  generous,  liberal 
aspiration  of  the  human  soul  stifled  in  its  birth.  Such 
are  the  contrasts,  broad  and  striking,  and  such  the 
reflections  forced  upon  the  mind  of  the  citizen  of  the 
United  States  in  Cuba."        *        -)f        * 


LETTEE   XIII. 

Key  "West,  Fla.,  April,  1856. 

My  last  yarn  was  spun  about  two  weeks  since  in 
Havana,  just  before  my  departure  for  the  island-city, 
where  I  am  now  sojourning.     I  was  "  taken  in  "  by 

our  friends  the  H s  immediately  on  my  arrival, 

and  assigned  a  large  airy  room  in  their  pleasant  family 
mansion,  where  I  am  now  fairly  domesticated,  and  in 
the  enjoyment  of  many  comforts  to  which  I  have  long 
been  a  stranger.  Kind  friends,  pleasant  weather,  and 
a  delightful  climate,  would  have  rendered  my  sojourn 
here  particularly  agreeable,  had  I  not  experienced  a 
return  of  my  old  malady,  injQammation  of  the  sto- 
mach. My  sufferings  were  intense,  both  day  and 
night,  and  I  became  so  weak  from  pain  and  loss  of 
sleep  that  I  could  scarcely  walk  to  the  beach,  a  few 
rods  distant.    My  nervous  system  was  in  such  a  state. 


igo  Key  West. 

that  I  could  not  bear  tlie  least  noise  or  excitement. 
A  loud  voice,  the  crying  of  a  child,  the  barking  of  a 
dog,  and  even  the  sound  of  the  surging  sea — which 
usually  is  music  to  my  ear — now  caused  me  sensa- 
tions approaching,  at  times,  almost  to  agony.  I  am 
more  than  ever  convinced  that  those  who  suffer  from 
a  derangement  of  the  nervous  system  do  not  usually 
receive  the  sympathy  they  deserve ;  for  it  is  a  disease, 
in  my  opinion,  worse  than  all  the  ills  to  which  flesh 
is  heir.  But,  thank  Heaven,  I  am  now  better,  or  I 
could  not  write,  much  less  indite,  this  letter.  *  *  * 
Key  West,  formerly  called  by  the  Spaniards  Cayo 
Hueso^  or  Bone  Key,  is  the  most  important  of  a  chain 
of  small  islands,  or  keys  as  they  are  termed,  lying  on 
the  southern  coast  of  Florida.  These  islands  are  very 
numerous,  and  vary  in  extent  from  the  fractional  part 
of  an  acre  to  several  miles.  They  are  of  coral  forma- 
tion— the  work  of  small  insects,  who,  however,  cease 
their  labors  as  soon  as  they  come  to  the  surface  of  the 
water.  The  entire  growth  above  the  water  is  depen- 
dent on  other  causes.  A  bunch  of  floatinsr  sea-weed, 
or  a  loose  spar  from  some  dismantled  vessel,  may  rest 
upon  this  coral  foundation.     This  is  seized  upon  by 


Coral  Insects.  191 

the  industrious  insects,  who  weave  on  the  under  side 
a  net-work  of  coral,  thus  securing  it  permanently  to 
the  rock  below.  The  slight  elevation  becomes  gra- 
dually covered  with  sand  or  earth,  forming  the  first 
rudiments  of  a  soil.  Some  weary  sea-bird,  perhaps 
seeking  a  momentary  resting-place,  drops  on  the  soil 
a  seed,  which  takes  root,  blossoms,  and  bears  fruit. 
Years  after,  other  birds  may  rest  in  "the  branches  of 
this  isolated  tree  or  shrub,  and.  perchance  scatter  the 
seeds  of  other  and  different  plants,  which  spring  up, 
produce  fruit,  and  are  in  their  turn  disseminated. 
The  coral  insects  keep  at  work,  enlarging  the  founda- 
tion to  correspond  with  the  increase  of  vegetation, 
until  acres  and  perhaps  miles  of  territory  are  formed 
in  the  midst  of  the  ocean.  Some  of  these  islands 
increase  in  size  each  year,  while  others  gradually 
diminish.  This  is  said  to  be  caused  by  the  tidal  cur- 
rents, which  pass  through  these  intricate  channels, 
in  their  tortuous  course  washing  away  portions  of  one 
island  and  transferring  the  loosened  soil  to  another. 

Key  Largo  lies  near  the  main  land,  and  is  the 
largest  of  these  numerous  islands,  being  about  twenty- 
five  miles  long,   and  from  one  to  five  miles  wide. 


192  Key  West. 

Key  West,  altliongh  the  third  or  fourth  in  size,  is  the 
only  one  of  commercial  importance.  It  has  been  de- 
signated as  "  the  Key  of  the  Gulf,"  and  is  the  most 
southerly  extremity  of  the  United  States.  It  is  sixty 
miles  south-west  from  Cape  Sable,  and  ninety  miles 
north  of  Havana,  and  is  the  only  safe  anchorage  for 
vessels  between  those  places.  The  island  itself  is  four 
miles  long  and  one  mile  wide,  and  its  highest  eleva- 
tion is  less  than  twenty  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
ocean.  The  harbor  is  capacious,  and  is  defended  by 
Fort -Taylor,  a  large  and  costly  fortification,  now  in 
process  of  erection.  Key  West  has  also  a  military 
and  naval  hospital,  and  a  number  of  barracks  for  sol- 
diers, and  is  destined  to  be  a  place  of  considerable 
importance.  The  steamer  Isabel,  which  carries  the 
mail  between  Charleston  and  Havana,  touches  here 
once  a  week,  and  is  about  the  only  means  of  commu- 
nication with  the  main  land.  Arrangements  are  now 
being  made,  I  learn,  to  have  the  California  steamers 
coal  here,  and  take  in  supplies  on  their  return  voyage. 
The  town  is  situated  on  the  west  end  of  the  island, 
and  is  dignified  by  the  title  of  city,  although  having 
less  than  three  thousand  inhabitants.     It  is,  however, 


A  Paradise  for  Wreckers.  193 

the  most  populous  place  in  Florida     Being  a  sea-port 
town,  the  society  is  unavoidably  miscellaneous.     The 
permanent  residents  are  principally  Americans,  Eng- 
lish, Spaniards,  and  Bahamians,  with  a  large  infusion 
of  slaves  and  free  blacks.     These  Bahamians,  known 
here  by  the  peculiar  sobriquet  of  "conchs,"  are  quite 
•  numerous,  amounting  to  at  least  one-fifth  of  the  entire 
population.     They  have  a  settlement  by  themselves 
in  the  outskirts  of  the  city,   and  subsist  mainly  by 
fishing,  gathering  sponges,  and  giving  assistance  to 
wrecked  vessels.      Large  quantities  of  sponges  are 
annually  collected  by  these  amphibious  bipeds,  who 
seem  to  be  as  much  at  home  in  the  water  as  out  of  it. 
The  southern  coast  of  Florida  is  very  much  feared 
by  navigators,  on  account  of  its  numerous  shoals  and 
reefs,  its  labyrinthine  channels,  and  the  treacherous 
under  current  of  the  Gulf-stream  in  the  vicinity.     It 
is  said  that  about  fifty  vessels  are  annually  wrecked 
on  this  coast,  and  the  inhabitants  of  Key  "West  derive 
a  large  revenue  from  this  source.     There  are  a  great 
number  of  wrecking  merchants  in  this  city,  most  o^ 
whom  have  acquired  fortunes  in  the  business.     I  have 
always  looked  upon  wrecking  as  a  nefarious  occupa- 


194  ^^y  West. 

tion,  a  kind  of  quasi  piracy ;  but  I  am  assured  by 
reliable  citizens  here,  that  it  is  generally  conducted 
upon  equitable  rules,  for  tlie  mutual  benefit  of  all 
parties  interested,  and  that  many  lives  and  much 
valuable  property  are  saved  every  year  by  the  exer- 
tions of  these  wreckers.  A  large  number  of  vessels, 
and  quite  an  army  of  seamen,  are  now  engaged  in  the 
business,  and  nearly  all  of  the  inhabitants  on  this 
island  are,  directly  or  indirecth^,  interested  in  it. 

On  the  east  end  of  the  island  are  a  number  of  salt- 
water ponds,  where  salt  is  made  by  solar  evaporation. 
These  works  have  been  destroyed  several  times  by 
gales,  and  the  manufacture  of  salt  for  a  while  sus- 
pended. They  are  now  in  successful  operation,  and 
yield  about  two  hundred  thousand  bushels  annually. 
The  present  owner,  Mr.  C.  "W.  Dennis,  came  here 
from  Alabama,  a  few  years  ago,  for  his  health.  The 
salt  air  and  equable  climate  proved  so  beneficial  to 
him,  that  he  has  continued  to  reside  here  ever  since. 
Mr.  Dennis  is  a  gentleman  of  wealth,  with  a  decided 
taste  for  literary  and  scientific  pursuits,  to  which  he 
devotes  a  large  portion  of  his  time.  I  am  indebted 
to  him  for  much  valuable  information  relative  to  the 


The  Climate  of  Key  West.  195 

commerce  and  agricultural  capabilities  of  this  island, 
and  for  many  interesting  facts  concerning  the  nume- 
rous keys  and  islands  in  this  vicinity. 

The  climate  of  Key  West  is  delightful.  The  island 
is  constantly  visited  by  invigorating  sea-breezes,  and 
is  never  so  intensely  hot  as  some  parts  of  Cuba.  The 
mean  temperature  is  75^ ;  the  mercury  seldom  rises 
above  85*^,  and  has  never  been  known  to  fall  below 
43*^  since  the  island  has  been  inhabited.  This  would 
be  a  paradise  for  invalids,  with  its  perpetual  summer, 
its  balmy,  health-giving  atmosphere,  and  its  ever- 
verdant  foliage,  were  there  a  greater  variety  of  land 
scenery,  more  pleasant  drives,  and  better  hotel  accom- 
modations. But  it  is  sadlv  deficient  in  all  of  these 
hygeian  requisites.  The  greater  part  of  the  island  is 
uncultivated,  being  covered  with  dwarfish  trees  and 
scraggy  underbrush.  The  soil,  in  many  places,  is 
overspread  to  the  depth  of  several  inches  with  loose 
beach  sand,  carried  there  by  the  heavy  gales  which 
occasionally  sweep  over  the  island.  After  the  novelty 
of  the  place  has  worn  off,  and  the  invalid  visitor  has 
become  weary  of  gazing  on  the  broad  and  monotonous 
ocean  which  surrounds  him  on   every  side,  he  will, 


196  Key  West. 

I  imagine,  experience  a  feeling  of  loneliness — an 
oppressive  sensation,  as  if  he  were  in  too  contracted 
and  confined  a  place  ;  and  this  could  not  be  otherwise 
than  unfavorable  to  his  restoration  to  health.  "Were 
it  not  for  these  few  drawbacks,  Key  West  would  be 
one  of  the  most  desirable  places  for  a  winter  residence 
on  this  continent. 

The  soil  is  thin,  and  apparently  almost  sterile,  yet 
the  heat  of  the  climate  and  the  soft  tropical  air  make 
every  kind  of  vegetation  flourish.  It  is  particularly 
adapted  to  fruit.  Many  kinds,  such  as  oranges,  cocoa- 
nuts,  tamarinds,  bananas,  olives,  dates,  and  others 
peculiar  to  the  tropics,  grow  here  almost  sponta- 
neously, and  might  be  cultivated  with  profit,  were  it 
not  for  the  great  cost  of  inclosing  and  preparing  the 
land.  I  was  shown  several  varieties  of  plants  intro- 
duced here  from  Mexico  by  the  late  Dr.  Henry  Per- 
rine,  more  than  twenty  years  ago,  which  had  become 
thoroughly  domesticated.  One  variety  of  the  agavf 
family,  named  by  Dr.  'Pernne  Agave  sisakmaj  has  heeh 
very  widely  disseminated  here,  and  is  now  growing 
freely  on  the  island.  This  valuable  plant  produce 
what  is  known  to  the  commercial  world  as  Sisal  hemp. 


Dr.  Henry  Perrine.  197 

It  is  stronger  and  more  durable  than  the  celebrated 
Manilla  hemp,  a  single  fibre  having  been  known  to 
sustain  a  weight  of  six  pounds,  and  is  exceedingly 
valuable  for  cordage  and  other  purposes.  If  a  suit- 
able machine  could  be  invented  for  removing  the  pulp 
and  cleansing  the  fibre,  it  would  soon  become  an  im- 
portant and  profitable  article  of  commerce.  The  plant 
will  flourish  on  poor  thin  soil.  For  that  reason,  if  no 
other,  it  is  especially  adapted  to  many  parts  of  south- 
ern Florida,  and  the  islands  bordering  on  the  gulf. 

During  my  stay  at  Key  West,  I  had  the  pleasure 
of  conversing  with  several  persons  w^ho  had  been 
intimatel}^  acquainted  with  Dr.  Perrine,  and  they 
regarded  the  enterprise  in  which  he  was  engaged  at 
the  time  of  his  death^  of  incalculable  importance  to 

*  On  the  7th  day  of  August,  1S40,  an  attack  was  made  on  Indian 
Key,  a  small  island  on  the  southern  coast  of  Florida,  by  a  band  of 
Seminole  Indians,  and  several  of  the  inhabitants  massacred.  "  Among 
those  who  fell  victims  to  Indian  rapacity  and  ferocity  was  Dr.  Henry 
Perrine.  a  gentleman  of  distinguished  talents  and  education,  who  had 
temporarily  settled  himself  with  his  family  at  Indian  Key  for  the 
purpose  of  introducing  the  culture  of  the  tea-plant  and  other  exotics 
into  the  territory  of  Florida.  Dr.  Perrine  had  intended  to  settle  on  a 
township  of  land  situated  near  Cape  Florida :  b}it  in  consequence  of 


198  Key  West. 

this  country.  The  object  of  the  association  of  which 
Dr.  Perrine  was  the  originator,  was  "  to  encourage  the 
introduction  and  promote  the  cultivation  of  tropical 
plants  in  the  United  States."  It  was  the  intention  of 
the  parties  to  introduce  such  valuable  exotics  as 
would  grow  on  comparatively  sterile  soil,  and  to  make 
available  a  large  part  of  southern  Florida,  now  of  no 
real  value  to  our  government,  thus  increasing  the 
national  wealth  and  the  prosperity  of  our  common 
country. 

Dr.  Perrine  was  an  able  and  enthusiastic  botanist, 
and  during  the  ten  or  twelve  years  that  he  was 
American  Consul  at  Campeachy  and  Tobasco,  he 
devoted   himself   to    the    domestication   of   tropical 

th9  Seminole  war,  which  was  then  raging,  he  was  not  allowed  to  carry 
his  designs  into  execution.  A  township  of  land  was  granted  to  him 
in  the  year  1838  by  Congress,  with  a  view  to  the  encouragement  of 
his  favorite  enterprise.  While  waiting  patiently  for  the  close  of  the 
war,  at  Indian  Key,  a  place  of  supposed  perfect  security,  a  band  of 
savages  landed  on  the  island,  desolated  it,  and  assassinated  a  portion 
of  the  inhabitants :  and  among  those  who  fell  was  Dr.  Perrine." — 
IVom  the  National  Intelligencer. 

The  particulars  of  this  massacre  and  of  the  escape  of  Dr.  Perrine's 
family  will  be  given  at  the  close  of  this  chapter. 


Domestication  of  Tropical  Plants.       199 

plants  in  the  United  States,  by  patient  collections  and 
persevering  transmissions  of  valuable  seeds  and  plants, 
and  by  procuring  the  necessary  information  for  tlieir 
culture.  Among  the  plants  he  introduced  (many  of 
which  would  without  doubt  have  been  successfully 
cultivated,  had  he  lived)  were  several  varieties  of  the 
palm,  the  agave,  the  tea-plant,  the  cofPee-shrub,  the 
rich  dyes  and  precious  woods  of  Mexico,  the  various 
spices  of  the  Indies,  and  the  delicious  fruits  of  Tropi- 
cal America.  There  are  now  on  exhibition  at  the 
Patent  Office  in  Washington  samples  of  a  nankeen- 
colored  cotton,  and  of  a  drab  vegetable  silk,  sent  there 
by  Dr.  P.,  which  have  excited  considerable  interest 
among  botanists,  and  persons  engaged  in  the  manu- 
facture of  those  commodities. 

When  on  my  way  to  Cuba,  I  met  with  a  gentleman 
engaged  in  the  government  coast  survey,  who  had 
recently  visited  Matacumba  and  other  small  islands 
in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Indian  Key,  and  I 
learned  from  him  that  the  island  of  Matacumba  was 
covered  with  trees  and  shrubs,  different  from  any  to 
be  found  on  the  main  land,  or  on  any  of  the  islands 
near  by.     They  were,  in  all  probability,  introduced 


200  Key  West. 

there  by  Dr.  Perrine,  who,  during  his  residence  at 
Indian  Key,  used  this  island  as  a  nursery  for  the 
cultivation  and  propagation  of  exotic  trees  and  plants. 

NARRATIVE   OF  THE   MASSACRE   AT  INDIAN  KEY. 

The  circumstances  attending  the  death  of  Dr.  Per- 
rine, as  related  by  members  of  his  family,  are  as  fol- 
lows : — In  the  year  1838,  Congress  granted  to  him  a 
township  of  land  in  southern  Florida  for  the  purpose 
of  introducing  and  acclimating  valuable  tropical 
plants.  During  the  winter  of  that  year,  Dr.  P., 
with  his  family,  consisting  of  his  wife,  two  daughters, 
and  a  son,  took  up  his  residence  at  Indian  Key,  a 
small  island  Ij'ing  about  twenty  miles  south  from 
Cape  Sable,  to  await  the  termination  of  the  Seminole 
war,  before  removing  to  the  main  land.  While  there, 
the  Doctor  occupied  himself  in  preparing  a  nursery 
of  exotic  plants  on  the  uninhabited  island  of  Mata- 
cumba  near  by,  intending,  as  soon  as  the  war  was 
over,  to  remove  them  to  his  township  on  the  main 
land.  The  few  families  residing  at  Indian  Key  had 
no  apprehension  of  an  attack  from  the  Indians,  who, 
it  was  presumed,  w^ould  not  venture  so  far  away  from 


Massacre  at  Indian  Key.  201 

their   secure   retreat   amonsr   the   ever2flades.     Their 

o  o 

supposed  security  was  rendered  more  certain,  from 
the  fact,  evidently  known  to  the  Indians,  that  a  num- 
ber of  United  States  soldiers  were  stationed  at  Tea 
Table  Key,  less  than  two  miles  distant. 

Indian  Ke}^,   at  this  time,   contained  a  dozen   or 
more  dwellings,  two  or  three  warehouses,   and   one 
store,  with  an  area  of  about  twelve  acres.     The  house 
occupied    by   Dr.    Perrine   was   the  largest  on  the 
island.     It  was  three  stories  high,  including  the  attic, 
with  a  piazza  at  one  end,  and  cupola  on  the  top  ;  and 
was  built  so  close  to  the  sea,  that  during  high  tide 
three  sides  of  the  house  were  surrounded  by  water. 
Fronting   the  piazza,   and  extending  into  the  ocean, 
was  a  short  wharf  or  pier,  used  for  unloading  wood 
and  family  supplies  ;  between  it  and  the  house  was  a 
narrow  covered  passage,  walled  up  on  each  side.     The 
wharf  itself  was  constructed  of  posts  driven  into  the 
ground  and  covered  over  with  timber   and   plank. 
The  space  under  the  wharf  was  used  as  a  pen  for 
turtles,  and  known  as  "  a  turtle  crawl."     It  communi- 
cated with  the  cellar  hy  the  narrow  passage  before 

mentioned,   at  the  outer  end  of  which  was  a  row  of 

9 


202  Key  West. 

palmetto  posts  driven  into  the  soft  marl,  far  enough 
apart  to  freely  admit  the  tide,  but  not  to  allow  the 
escape  of  the  turtles.  The  cellar  under  the  house 
being  open  to  the  influx  of  the  sea,  was  used  by  the 
family  as  a  place  for  bathing,  the  water  being  four  or 
five  feet  deep  during  high-tide,  but  receding  as  the 
tide  ebbed,  so  as  to  leave  but  a  few  inches  on  the 
bottom.  The  bathing-place  was  entered  by  a  trap- 
door from  the  dressing-room  above. 

This  slight  description  of  the  island,  with  the  loca- 
tion and  arrangement  of  the  house  occupied  by  Dr. 
Perrine,  will  enable  the  reader  the  better  to  under- 
stand the  events  set  forth  in  the  following  narrative. 

On  the  morning  of  the  7th  of  August,  1840,  between 
two  and  three  o'clock,  the  family  of  Dr.  Perrine 
were  aroused  from  their  slumbers  by  the  discharge  of 
guns,  crashing  of  glass,  and  the  fearful  yells  of  Indians, 
who  had  approached  the  island  so  stealthily  as  to  escape 
observation.  The  Doctor  sprang  from  his  hammock, 
where  he  had  been  watching  the  sick-bed  of  his  eldest 
daughter  who  had  been  ill  of  a  fever  for  several  weeks, 
caught  her  up  in  his  arms,  and  followed  by  his  wife 
and  other  daughter  in  their  night  dresses,   started 


Massacre  at  Indian  Key.  203 

down  stairs  to  seek  a  place  of  concealment.  At  this 
moment  they  discovered  that  the  son,  a  lad  of  thirteen, 
was  not  with  them ;  they  found  him  in  his  room  in 
another  part  of  the  building,  and  hurriedly  descended 
to  the  dressing-room  at  the  foot  of  the  stairs.  Here 
the  Doctor  left  his  family  and  went  to  another  room 
for  his  fire-arms,  having  in  the  house  at  the  time  one 
of  Colt's  revolving  rifles,  three  of  Allen's  six-shooters, 
and  one  double-barrelled  shot-gun.  He  had  plenty  of 
powder  and  balls,  but  to  his  dismay  found  that  he 
was  out  of  percussion  caps,  which  rendered  his  fire- 
arms useless  as  a  means  of  defence.  Somewhat  dis- 
couraged, but  not  without  hope,  the  Doctor — finding 
the  yard  aind  piazza  filled  with  Indians,  and  no  possi- 
bility of  escape  in  that  direction — opened  the  trap- 
door leading  to  the  bathing-room  below,  as  the  safest 
place  of  refuge,  and  told  his  family  to  descend  and 
"  he  would  go  back  and  see  what  could  be  done." 
They  did  as  he  requested,  and  were  soon  immersed 
to  the  waist  in  Water,  and  surrounded  by  darkness 
and  gloom.  They  groped  their  way  into  the  narrow 
passage  leading  to  the  "  turtle  crawl,"  where  their 
further  progress  was  intercepted  by  the  palmetto  posts 


204-  .  Key  West. 

before  mentioned.  Here  ihej  remained  in  darkness 
and  suspense,  awaiting  the  husband  and  father  whom 
they  were  never  to  see  again  in  this  world. 

The  Indians  had  by  this  time  reached  the  rear  of 
the  house  and  were  crowded  upon  the  piazza,  but  a 
few  feet  above  the  heads  of  the  affrighted  family,  fir- 
ing their  guns  into  the  windows,  yelling,  and  battering 
away  at  the  door.  During  a  slight  cessation  of  the 
noise,  they  heard  Dr.  Perrine  from  the  upper  piazza, 
calling  to  the  Indians  in  Spanish,  informing  them  that 
he  w^as  a  physician.  This  w^as  all  they  conld  under- 
stand, as  the  Indians  immediately  gave  a  loud  shout, 
and  apparently  left  the  premises.  In  a  few  moments 
Dr.  Perrine  came  dowm  stairs,  closed  the  trap-door 
leading  to  the  cellar,  and  drew  over  it  a  large  chest 
of  seeds  to  conceal  it  from  observation.  This  noble, 
self-sacrificing  act — the  last  he  ever  performed  for  his 
family — undoubtedly  saved  their  lives. 

Dr.  Perrine  had  many  important  papers  and 
manuscripts,  the  fruits  of  years  of  toil  and  research, 
which  were  of  incalculable  value  to  him,  and  w^hich 
he  was  desirous  of  saving^.  Know^insr  that  the  Indians 
were  friendly  to  the  Spaniards,  and  trusting  to  his 


Massacre  at  Indian  Key.  205 

knowledge  of  tlie  Spjinisli  language,  wbicli  lie  spoke 
like  a  native,  and  to  their  known  desire  to  secure  the 
services  of  a  white  physician,  he  was  confident  that 
he  could  prevail  on  them  to  spare  his  dwelling,  and 
the  lives  of  himself  and  family,  and  that  he  w^ould 
ultimately  be  able  to  save  many  of  his  valuable  papers. 
This  idea  is  borne  out  by  the  subsequent  occurrences 
of  that  fatal  night. 

A  short  time  after  the  Indians  had  left  the  house, 
the  trembling  listeners  heard  the  rattling  of  a  chain 
as  it  w^as  dropped  into  a  small  boat  which  had  been 
fastened  to  the  wharf,  but  a  few  yards  from  where 
they  were  concealed,  and  cautious  footsteps  in  the 
w^ater.  They  afterwards  learned  that  Mr.  Charles 
Howe,  who  now  resides  at  Key  West,  then  made  his 
escape  w^ith  all  his  family.  Shortly  after,  they  heard 
the  Indians  breaking^  into  the  different  houses  near 
by,  and  from  their  loud  discordant  yells  it  was  evi- 
dent that  they  had  obtained  access  to  the  store,  and 
were  now  maddened  by  intoxication.  Despair  seized 
on  the  terrified  inmates  of  this  half  submerged  prison- 
house,  as  they  heard  the  returning  footsteps  of  the 
Indians,  who  now  began  a  furious  assault  upon  the 


2o6  Key  West. 

dwelling,   and  with  the  aid  of  sticks  of  wood  that 
were  piled  on  the  wharf,  soon  battered  down  the  door 
and  effected  an  entrance.     For  a  time  they  seemed  to 
be   more   intent   on   breaking   windows,    destroying 
furniture,  and  securing  plunder,  than  searching  for 
victims.     At  last  a  voice  was  heard  to  say  in  English 
"  they're  all  hid" — "  old  man  up-stairs."     A  rush  was 
then  made  evidently  in  that  direction,  and  in  a  few 
moments  the  sound  of  heavy  blows  was  heard  appa- 
rently upon  a  massive  trap-door  that  led  to  the  cupola, 
where  it  was  supposed  the  Doctor  had  retreated  for 
safety.     Soon  they  heard  a  terrific  crash  as  the  door 
gave  way,  followed  by  a  single  rifle  shot,  and  then 
the  loud  war-whoops  and  demoniac  yells  of  the  sav- 
ages indicated  their  success  and  the  massacre  of  Dr. 
Perrine.      For  a   long   time   afterwards   the   terror- 
stricken  fugitives  heard  the  Indians  dragging  trunks 
and  other  articles  of  plunder  over  their  heads,  and 
loading  them  into  boats.     Once,  as  the  turtles  made  a 
noise  in  the  water,  an  Indian  raised  one  of  the  planks 
and  looked  down,  but  fortunately  not  towards  the 
end  where  the  family  were  secreted. 

Anxiously  the  trembling  inmates  of  this  gloomy 


Massacre  at  Indian  Key.  207 

hiding-place  awaited  the  approach  of  light,  which  they 
hoped  would  bring  succor  and  relief,  as  they  sup- 
posed these  ruthless  invaders  would  then  leave  the 
island.  As  the  day  began  to  dawn,  they  could  see 
through  the  crevices  of  their  place  of  retreat  boats 
passing  by  loaded  with  spoils,  and  hear  the  cry  of  the 
marauders  close  at  hand.  Soon  they  heard  the  sound 
of  desultory  firing;  then  came  the  booming  of  a  can- 
non, which  was  followed  by  prolonged  yells  of  defi- 
ance. Hope  began  to  animate  their  breasts,  and  they 
waited  with  feverish  anxiety  other  indications  of  the 
approach  of  succor.  But  the  firing  ceased,  and  the 
looked-for  aid  came  not.  It  was  afterwards  ascer- 
tained that  nearly  all  the  soldiers  stationed  at  Tea- 
Table  Key  had  been  sent  away  a  few  days  before  on 
a  naval  expedition,  and  those  left  behind  were  in  the 
hospital,  and  not  considered  fit  for  active  service. 
When  it  was  known  at  the  Kej  that  the  Indians  had 
made  an  attack  on  this  island,  a  few  partly-disabled 
soldiers  procured  a  small  boat,  in  which  they  placed 
two  four-pound  swivels,  and  as  soon  as  it  was  light 
started  out  for  the  purpose  of  trying  to  intercept  the 
Indians  and  cut  off  their  retreat  to  the  main  land.    In 


2o8  Key  West. 

tlie  hurry  of  their  departure,  they  unfortunately  took 
•with  them  six-pound  cartridges  instead  of  four,  and  at 
the  first  discharge  the  overloaded  guns  recoiled  so  vio- 
lently that  they  went  overboard,  and  the  soldiers  had 
to  retreat,  to  avoid  being  captured.  The  Indians  fol- 
lowed them  for  some  distance,  firing  at  them,  and 
killing  or  severely  wounding  one  of  their  number. 

It  soon  became  evident  to  Mrs.  Perrine  and  her 
children  that  the  house  was  on  fire,  as  smoke  began 
to  make  its  way  slowly  into  their  place  of  conceal- 
ment. It  was  some  time,  however,  before  it  proved 
troublesome,  as  the  building  was  fired  near  the  cupola, 
and  had  to  burn  downwards.  But  as  its  devouring 
progress  was  not  stayed,  it  soon  found  its  way  to  the 
lower  floor,  when  the  smoke  became  stifling,  and  so 
dense  that  they  could  scarcely  see  themselves,  although 
clasped  in  each  other's  arms.  The  tide  had  now 
ebbed,  leaving  but  a  few  inches  of  water  over  the  bot- 
tom. To  escape  suffocation,  they  lay  with  their  faces 
close  to  the  water,  splashed  it  around  them  to  keep 
the  air  in  motion,  and  breathed  through  the  folds  of 
their  wet  night-clothes.  At  length  the  timbers  above 
their  heads  caught  fire,  and  tongues  of  angry  flame 


Massacre  at  Indian  Key.  209 

darted  out,  and  were  clioked  back  by  wet  marl  in  the 

hands  of  the  terror-stricken  captives,   whose  doom 

seemed  now  to  be  sealed.     No  escape  was  left  for  them 

towards  the   house,    as   the   mouth   of  their  retreat 

looked  like  a  great  oven  or  fiery  furnace,  and  in  front 

of  them  was  a  row  of  piles  driven  deep  into  the  marl 

and  spiked  at  the  top.    In  a  few  moments  the  burning 

building  fell  into  the  cellar  with  a  fearful  crash.    The 

boy  screamed  out  in  terror,  as  a  horrible  death  by  fire 

seemed  inevitable.    His  mother  and  sister  endeavored 

to  stop  his  cries,  fearing  the  Indians  would  hear  him; 

but  he  declared  *'  that  he  would  rather  be  killed  than 

burned  to  death,"  and  broke  away  from  them.    In  his 

frantic  efforts  to  escape,  he  forced  his  way  between 

two  palmetto  posts,  one  of  which  had  been  loosened 

at  the  top,  and  escaped  into  the  turtle-pen,  whence  he 

made  his  way  to  the  outside  of  the  wharf. 

His  mother  and  sisters  remained  for  a  short  time  in 

agonizing  suspense,  thinking  that  he  would  be  killed 

or  taken  prisoner  by  the  Indians,  and  their  discovery 

would  be  certain.     But  hearing  no  noise,  and  knowing 

that  they  would  be  burned  to  death  if  they  remained 

where  they  were,  the  mother  dug  down  into  the  marl 

9* 


210  Key  West. 

with  her  hands  to  the  bottom  of  a  post,  and  by  an 
almost  superhuman  effort  succeeded  in  displacing  it 
sufficiently  to  admit  the  passage  of  herself  and  daugh- 
ters. As  they  went  forward  under  the  wharf,  on 
which  were  several  cords  of  wood  on  fire,  the  live 
coals  fell  on  their  bare  heads  and  shoulders ;  but  they 
heeded  them  not,  being  so  overjoyed  at  having 
escaped  from  the  horrible  death  which  but  a  few 
moments  before  seemed  to  be  their  doom.  Joyfully 
they  inhaled  the  pure  air  once  more,  and  with  grateful 
hearts  thanked  God  for  their  deliverance.  With  slow 
and  cautious  footsteps  they  made  their  way  through 
the  shallow  water  to  the  outside  of  the  wharf,  looking 
anxiously  around  for  the  son,  of  whose  fate  they  were 
ignorant,  and  trying  to  discover  some  place  of  secu- 
rity where  they  could  remain  until  rescued. 

Let  us  now  for  a  moment  follow  the  son  after  his 
escape  from  beneath  the  burning  wharf.  Seeing  a 
fleet  of  canoes,  nearly  a  mile  distant,  filled  with 
Indians,  and  supposing  that  they  had  all  left  the 
island,  he  started  in  the  direction  of  one  of  the  build- 
ings not  destroyed,  hoping  to  find  some  person  who 
would  ^o  to  the  relief  of  his  mother  and  sisters.    But 


Massacre  at  Indian  Key.  211 

no  human  being  was  visible,  and  no  sound  heard, 
except  the  crackling  of  the  flames  of  the  nearly  con- 
sumed dwelling  he  had  so  recently  occupied,  and  of 
the  burning  wood  on  the  wharf.     He  passed  in  front 
of  the  store,  the  door  of  which  was  open,  little  dream- 
ing that  at  the  moment  several  drunken  Indians  were 
within,  collecting  the  few  spoils  not  taken  away  by 
those  who  had  left  the  island.     Retracing  his  steps, 
he  approached  the  spot  where  his  mother  and  sisters 
were  incarcerated,  in  the  expectation  of  never  seeing 
them  again,  as  the  wharf  above  their  late  place  of 
concealment  was  all  on  fire,  and  their  escape  at  that 
time  would  have  been  impossible.      As  he  cast  his 
eyes  despairingly  in  that  direction,  to  his  great  sur- 
prise   and  joy  he   beheld  them  emerging  from  the 
turtle-pen.     He  ran  to  meet  them,  and  as  he  passed 
the  landing  near  the  store,  he  discovered  a  boat  partly 
loaded  with  goods,  evidently  belonging  to  the  Indians 
then  in  the  building.     When  he  reached  the  family, 
his  mother  was  supporting  in  her  arms  her  invalid 
daughter,  who,  becoming   faint   from  weakness  and 
fatigue,  had  sunk  down,  and  was  begging  her  mother 
and  sister  to  leave  her  and  make  their  escape,  as  "she 


212  Key  West. 

said  she  was  dying  and  could  go  no  furtlier."  But 
tliey  succeeded  in  dragging  her  through  the  water  to 
the  boat,  which  they  unloosed  from  its  fastening,  and 
with  the  aid  of  one  oar  and  a  pole  contrived  to  push 
it  out  into  the  open  sea. 

Their  escape  was  truly  providential ;  for,  had  they 
been  a  few  moments  earlier  or  later  in  getthig  to  the 
boat,  they  would,  in  all  probability,  have  been  dis- 
covered by  the  Indians,  who  had  partly  filled  the  boat 
with  goods,  and  had  gone  back  to  tlie  store  for  more 
plunder.     Seeing  a  vessel  at  anchor  a  short  distance 
from  Tea-Table  Key,  the  son  took  off  his  shirt,  and 
fastening  it  to  a  pole,  hoisted  it  as  a  signal  of  distress. 
Twice  they  got  aground,  but  the  boy  having  been 
accustomed  to  managing  a  boat  got  her  off  with  but 
slight  detention.     They  had  proceeded  about  half  a 
mile  when  they  discovered  two  Indians  in  a  canoe  just 
starting  out  in  pursuit  of  them  ;  but  seeing  a  boat 
approaching  from   the   direction   of  the   vessel,   the 
Indians  returned  and  set  fire  to  the  store  and  the  few 
remaining  buildings.     The  fugitives  were  taken  up  by 
a  boat  from  the  schooner  Medium,  which  vessel  they 
reached  about  noon — some  ten  hours  from  the  time 


Massacre  at  Indian  Key.  213 

the  attack  was  first  made  on  the  island.  They  found 
on  board  several  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  Key  who 
had  escaped  during  the  night,  and  among  them  the 
family  of  Mr.  Howe,  their  neighbors  and  intimate 
friends.  The  captain  of  the  vessel  was  very  kind  to 
the  ladies,  provided  them  with  sheets  in  lieu  of  dresses, 
and  made  them  as  comfortable  as  could  be  expected 
under  the  circumstances.  Mrs.  Perrine  and  her  chil- 
dren were  almost  destitute  of  clothing,  and  in  a 
nearly  exhausted  state.  Their  night-garments  were  in 
tatters ;  their  hands  sore  from  digging  up  the  marl 
to  protect  their  heads  from  the  heat  of  the  burning 
building  ;  their  shoulders  smarting  from  contact  with 
falling  coals;  and  their  faces  blistered  from  long 
exposure  to  the  scorching  rays  of  a  tropical  noon-day 
sun  reflected  in  a  sea  of  polished  glass. 

The  next  day  Mr.  Howe,  with  a  few  men  from  the 
schooner,  returned  to  the  island,  gathered  together  the 
bones  of  Dr.  Perrine  from  the  ruins  of  his  dwelling, 
and  buried  them  under  the  broad  spreading  leaves  of 
one  of  his  favorite  agaves  on  the  beautiful  island  of 
Lower  Matacumba,  where  perpetual  summer  reigns, 
and  "fragrance  ever  clothes  the  flow'ring  earth." 


214  ^^y  West. 

"  Peace  to  the  dust  that  in  silence  reposes, 

Beneath  the  dark  shade  of  the  cypress  and  yew: 
Let  spring  deck  the  spot  with  the  earliest  roses, 
And  heaven  wash  the  leaves  with  its  holiest  dew." 

The  family  remained  on  board  of  the  schooner  until 
the  afternoon  of  the  next  day,  when  they  were  trans- 
ferred to  *'  The  Flirt,"  a  United  States  vessel-of-war 
commanded  by  Capt.  McLaughlin,  who  gave  up  his 
state-room  to  the  ladies,  and  rendered  them  all  the 
assistance  in  his  power.  The  invalid  daughter  was 
carried  on  board  on  a  cot,  being  too  ill  to  stand ;  but 
with  careful  nursing,  and  the  skilful  attendance  of  the 
ship's  surgeon,  Dr.  Taliaferro,  she  soon  began  to 
improve  in  health  and  strength.  The  Flirt  proceeded 
to  Cape  Florida,  where  she  remained  about  a  week, 
until  the  arrival  of  the  steamer  Santee,  in  which  vessel 
the  family  took  passage  for  St.  Augustine  under  the 
care  and  protection  of  Dr.  Edward  Worrel,  of  the 
Army,  who  very  kindly  accompanied  them  to  their 
friends  at  the  North. 


LETTER  Xiy. 

Savannah,  April,  1856. 

I  LEFT  Key  West  by  the  steamer  Isabel  late  on  the 
afternoon  of  the  16th  instant,  for  this  city.  The  day- 
was  lovely,  the  air  balmy,  the  sky  brilliant,  and  the 
sun  as  bright  as  ever  gladdened  a  tropical  landscape. 
Old  Ocean  himself  was  in  the  best  of  humors,  his 
broad  expansive  face  was  placid  and  serene,  and  every- 
thing indicated  a  pleasant  voyage.  The  deck  of  the 
steamer  was  crowded  with  passengers,  most  of  whom 
were  from  the  North,  who  had  been  seeking  health 
and  recreation  in  a  warmer  clime,  and  were  now 
returning  to  their  homes,  willing  to  exchange  the 
cloudless  sky  and  balmy  atmosphere  of  the  sunny 
South  for  the  more  substantial  comforts  of  home, 
and  the  companionship  of  kindred  and  friends. 


2i6  Savannah. 

*'  There  is  a  magic  in  the  name  of  home, 

Felt  in  the  spirit's  yearnings  ;  man  may  roam 
Careering  on  his  wild  and  thoughtless  way, 
Yet  in  all  his  wanderings  is  still  within 
The  attractive  influence  of  that  sunny  spot, 

Home,  sweet  home !" 

I  was  fortunate  in  meeting  with  a  number  of  ladies 
and  gentlemen  whose  acquaintance  I  had  made  in 
Cuba,  and  our  greeting  was  as  cordial  as  if  we  had 
known  each  other  for  years.  It  was  really  a  pleasant 
reunion,  which  we  celebrated  on  deck,  in  relating  our 
individual  experiences  since  we  parted  at  Cuba.  The 
evening  was  surpassingly  lovely ;  the  sun  had  gone 
to  his  rest  surrounded  b}^  a  halo  of  golden  effulgence ; 
and  his  pale-faced  sister,  the  crescent  moon,  was  incon- 
spicuous amid  her  innumerable  progeny  of  bright  and 
twinklins:  stars  which  bedecked 


'to 


(; 


Night's  dark  pavilion, 


Spread  wide  o'er  the  wasteful  deep." 

What  can  be  more  beautiful  than  a  starry  night  on 
the  ocean;  with  naught  but  heaven  above,  heaven 
around,  and  heaven  reflected  in  the  water  beneath. 


A  Starry  Night  at  Sea.  217 

It  is  one  vast  sea  of  splendor,  boundless  in  space,  and 
glorious  in  its  illuminings.  AVe  remained  on  deck 
enjoying  tbe  scene  before  us — the  jewelled  firmament 
above,  the  balmy  atmosphere  arounJ,  and  the  silver- 
crested  waves  beneath  breaking;  with  o;entle  music 
against  the  sharp  prow  of  our  vessel  as  she  flew  over 
the  water — until  midnight  was  upon  us  and  admo- 
nished us  to  retire. 

My  state-room  companion  was  a  Lieutenant  in  the 
Army,  who  was  on  his  w^ay  to  Washington  to  receive 
orders.  He  was  an  intelligent  and  agreeable  young 
man,  about  twenty-five  years  of  age,  and  moreover, 
modest  and  unassuming ;  which,  virtues  are  so  rare 
among  gentlemen  of  his  profession  that  I  take  pleasure 
in  noticing  the  fact.  We  laid  ourselves  upon  our 
respective  shelves  and  gossipped  about  tilings  terres- 
trial until  sleep  weighed  down  my  eyelids  and  steeped 
my  senses  in  forgetfulness.  I  slept  soundly  until 
about  daylight,  when  I  was  awakened  by  the  accele- 
rated motion  of  the  vessel,  as  if  that  blustering  vaga- 
bond Boreas  were  trying  to  provoke  the  aqueous  ele- 
ments to  wrath  ;  unconscious,  perhaps,  that  by  so 
doing  he  w^ould  be  very  likely  to  excite  the  hile  in  us. 


2i8  Savannah. 

Sleep  was  now  out  of  the  question,  and  I  lay  rolling 
and  tumbling  about  in  my  berth,  until  the  morning 
watch  was  called,  when  I  got  up,  and  meandering  to 
the  deck,  witnessed  a  scene  of  unsurpassed  grandeur 
and  sublimity.  Alas !  what  a  change  had  come  over 
the  spirit  of  his  Oceanic  Majesty  since  I  left  the  deck 
but  a  few  hours  before.     Then  he  was 


"  As  meek,  and  mild, 


And  gentle  as  an  un weaned  child." 

Now^  he  was  dashing  and  splashing,  rearing  and 
tearing,  with  impetuous  fury ;  his  hitherto  serene 
countenance  was  writhed  and  distorted,  and  he  was 
lashing  the  sides  of  our  gallant  vessel  with  angry 
vehemence.  I  siclcened  at  the  sight,  and  hastily  re- 
treated to  the  cabin.  Here  the  sound  of  the  break- 
fast-bell fell  discordantly  on  my  ear,  neither  was  it  in 
harmony  with  the  tone  of  my  stomach.  To  me  it 
was  a  mournful  sound — a  knell  to  my  departed  appe- 
tite—a requiem  over  lost  joys  and  buried  hopes.  The 
captain  suggested  tea  and  toast  as  a  sedative,  and  led 
the  way  to  the  breakfast-room.  I  followed  '^  like  a 
lamb  to  the  slaughter."     My  limbs  obeyed,  but  my 


Sea-sickness. 


219 


stomach  rebelled.  I  reached  the  table,  which  was 
nearly  unoccupied,  but  profusely  covered  with  tempt- 
ing viands ;  wondered  they  did  not  fall  off  luhen  the 
table  rose  to  meet  me;  managed  to  sit  down,  the  chair 
being  fastened,  drank  one  spoonful  of  tea,  which  was 
nauseous,  and  the  toast  was  anything  but  appetising. 
They  passed  a  plate  of  hot  steak  under  my  nose ;  I 
could  stand  it  no  longer,  but  dropping  my  knife  and 
fork  hastily  mounted  the  stairs,  lest  I  might  leave 
someihmg  on  my  plate  not  in  the  hill  of  fare.  The 
cool  air  revived  me.  I  beo^an  to  take  courao^e, 
and  manfully  resolved  to  walk  the  deck  and  banish 
such  idle  fancies.  Proudly  I  arose ;  the  vessel  rose 
with  me  ;  she  careened,  I  careened  also  ;  she  plunged, 
and  I  suppose  that  I  must  have  "  followed  suit,"  for 
I  suddenly  found  myself  on  my  knees  at  one  end  of 
the  vessel,  paying  tribute  to  Neptune. 

IIow  I  managed  to  reach  my  state-room  I  hardly 
know ;  but  I  do  know  that  I  remained  there  for 
twenty -four  hours,  suffering  as  I  never  suffered  before. 
The  nausea  of  sea-sickness  I  could  endure  ;  but  such 
incessant,  torturing,  racking  pains  in  my  head  I  never 
before  experienced ;  and  the  spasms  in  my  stomach 


220  Savannah. 

were  at  times  so  severe,  that  I  almost  feared  that  my 
"  mortal  fabric  was  about  to  be  dissolved."  I  did 
not  close  my  eyes  in  sleep  until  long  after  midnight, 
when  nature  became  exhausted,  and  I  relapsed  into  a 
state  of  forgetfulness.  AVhen  I  awoke  the  next 
morning,  I  had  a  few  oranges  brought  to  my  room, 
which  refreshed  and  invigorated  me.  I  managed  at 
breakfast  to  overcome  my  aversion  to  tea  and  toast, 
and  a  small  piece  of  beef-steak  was  not  unpalatable. 
Went  on  deck,  found  the  aspect  of  nature  changed, 
received  the  congratulations  of  friends,  and  your  cor- 
respondent "  was  himself  again."  However,  I  am 
convinced  more  than  ever  that  I  have  no  stomach 
for  the  sea,  and  resolve  for  the  fourth  and  last  time, 
to  confine  my  journey ings  in  future  to  terra-firma,  or 
at  least  within  sight  of  its  genial  shores. 

It  is  Ralph  Waldo  Emerson,  I  believe,  who  says 
that  "  sea-life  is  an  acquired  taste,  like  that  for  toma- 
toes and  olives."  This  may  be  the  experience  of 
some  voyagers,  but  not  of  all.  I  have  tried  a  num- 
ber of  times  to  acquire  a  liking  for  the  sea,  but  the 
oftener  I  make  the  attempt  the  greater  is  my  aversion 
to  the  saline  condiment^  which  invariably  disturbs  the 


Objections  to  Sea-Life.  221 

equilibrium  of  my  stomach.  Poets,  in  the  phrensy 
of  inspiration,  may  sing  rapturously  of  "  a  life  on  the 
ocean  wave,  and  a  home  on  the  rolling  deep  ;  "  but, 
much  as  I  may  admire  the  poetry  and  melody  of  the 
song,  my  feelings  will  not  respond  to  the  sentiment 
therein  expressed.  The  recollections  of  my  several 
experiences  on  ship-board  are,  I  must  say,  provoca- 
tive of  anv  but  ao;reeable  sensations. 

I  have  no  objections  to  the  sea  in  the  prospective, 
when  viewed  from  a  comfortable  position  on  dry 
land  ;  it  is,  in  fact,  from  such  a  stand-point,  a  sublime 
and  beautifal  sight.  But  I  do  object  to  being  "  crib- 
bed, cabined,  and  confined  "  for  an  indefinite  period 
in  an  uneasy  vessel,  where  one  is  liable  to  be  nau- 
seated by  the  villanous  effluvium  of  bilge-water,  or 
half  stifled  with  mephitic  air,  even  if  fortunate 
enough  to  escape  the  horrors  of  sea-sickness.  Fur- 
thermore, to  be  subjected  to  the  capricious  humors 
and  insolent  pranks  of  that  old  salt-water  god, — he  of 
the  trident,  who  delights  in  annihilating  your  appe- 
tite, turning  your  stomach  inside  out,  and  making 
you  appear  as  if  you  were  ''  half  seas  over  "  when 
you  have  just  begun  the  voyage — is  not  only  disa- 


222  Savannah. 

greeable,  but   extremely   mortifying  to  one  of  my 
staid,  sober,  and  strictly  temperate  habits. 

Among  our  motley  assemblage  of  passengers — 
some  forty  or  fifty  in  number,  and  representing  seve- 
ral different  nations — were  three  or  four,  whose  pecu- 
liarity of  appearance  or  eccentricity  of  manner  made 
them  conspicuous.  One  individual,  with  a  dark, 
sinister  countenance,  and  heavy  black  beard,  was 
pointed  out  to  me  as  a  Cuban  millionaire,  who  was 
supposed  to  be  engaged  in  the  African  slave-trade, 
and  his  great  wealth  the  result  of  his  accursed  traffic 
in  human  flesh.  A  more  morose  and  forbidding  face 
I  never  saw  on  a  human  form.  From  beneath  a 
heavy,  overhanging  brow,  flashed  one  basilisk  eye,  as 
bright  and  coruscant  as  if  the  fire  of  a  thousand  fur- 
naces were  burning  there.  The  other  eye  was  invisi- 
ble, being  covered  with  a  small  black  patch.  If 
Blue-Beard  ever  existed  except  in  the  imaginations 
of  credulous  children,  I  think  this  individual  must 
have  been  a  lineal  descendant,  for  he  realized  more 
fully  my  idea  of  that  man-monster  than  any  human 
being  that  I  ever  saw.  Evidently  desiring  to  escape 
observation,   he  sat  most  of  the  time  alone,  in  a 


A  Cosmopolitan.  223 

retired  part  of  the  vessel,  smoking  a  richly  orna- 
mented pipe,  of  antique  design ;  be  was  not  seen  at 
the  public  table,  nor  was  he  known  to  hold  any 
conversation,  or  to  have  communication  with  any  of 
the  passengers. 

Another  individual,  antipodal  in  every  respect  to 
the  one  just  described,  was,  perhaps,  fifty  years  of 
age,  quite  intelligent,  w^ell-dressed  (although  his 
clothes  were  beginning  to  look  seedy),  and  evidently 
had  seen  much  of  the  world.  •  His  g^od-natured  face 
and  sans  souci  manner  were  a  card  of  introduction  to 
most  of  the  passengers,  and  had  it  not  been  for  a  pre- 
disposition which  he  evinced  to  indulge  in  the  mar- 
vellous, he  would  have  been  a  valuable  acquisition  to 
our  floating  society.  I  have,  during  my  somewhat 
extensive  intercourse  with  the  world,  observed  human 
nature  in  a  great  variety  of  phases.  I  have  seen 
talking  politicians;  talking  poets — many  of  whom 
are  decidedly  prosy ;  talking  lawyers — some  of  whom, 
like  necessity,  know  no  law ;  talking  divines,  and 
those  of  the  fraternity  not  particularly  divine ;  and 
last,  but  not  least,  talking  women  !  "With  the  excep- 
tion of  the  latter  (with  whom,   however,  talking  is 


224  Savannah. 

the  rule,  not  the  exception),  I  never  hefore  saw  so 
garrulous  a  biped  as  the  one  I  am  now  describing. 
He  talked  incessantly.     Where  he  had  not  been  was 
not  worth  visiting ;  what  he  had  not  seen  was  not 
worth  seeing ;    what  he  had  not  endured   was   not 
martyrdom.     He  had  visited  Europe,   Asia,  Africa, 
and  the  various  islands  of  the  ocean ;  had  circum- 
navigated the  globe,  and  doubled  many  a  horn.     He 
had  picked  up  diamonds  from  Brazilian  sands,  and 
had  his  ''  pocket  full  of  rocks  "  fresh  from  the  mines 
of  Australia.       Had  breakfasted  on  Mount  Blanc, 
dined  in  the  crater  of  Vesuvius,  and  supped  on  the 
Dead  Sea  ;  had  slept  amid  the  ruins  of  the  Alhambra, 
drunk   wine   on   the   top   of   Pompey's  Pillar,   and 
bathed  in  the  Hellespont ;  had  hunted  buffaloes  on 
our  western  prairies,  tigers  in  Bengal,  and  elephants 
in  the  jungles  of  Ceylon;    had  explored  the  Polar 
regions,  and  travelled  over  Sahara's  desert  waste.    He 
knew  every  one,  from  his  Holiness  the  Pope  to  the 
"  King  of  the  Cannibal  Islands  " — from  the  Czar  of 
Russia  to  the  Great  Mogul  himself — and  enjoyed  an 
intimate  companionship  with  the  seventh  son  of  the 
world-renowned   Baron  Munchausen,  whose  adven- 


An  English  Exquisite.  225 

turcs   were  but  "  small  vegetables "  compared  with 
his  more  wonderful  exploits. 

Another  personage  attracted  the  notice  of  many 
of  the  passengers  by  his  peculiar  dialect,  and  exqui- 
site cockney-air.  He  was  a  verdant  sprig  of  the 
English  upper-ten-dom,  who  was  just  emerging  from 
a  chrysalis  state  into  an  adolescent  butterfly.  This 
tender  scion  had  but  recently  left  his  parental  conser- 
vatory in  Yorkshire — his  speech  being  profusely  inter- 
larded with  aspirated  vowels  and  provincialisms — and 
was  now  abroad  in  search  of  a  field  in  which  to  sow 
his  wild  oats.  He  was  an  exquisite  of  the  "  first 
water,"  who  sported  more  airs  than  hairs,  although 
an  incipient  moustache  was  beginning  to  shadow  his 
lip,  and  a  few  downy  hairs  were  faintly  discernible 
on  his  effeminate  chin.  On  the  fore-finger  of  his 
right  hand  he  wore  a  ring  about  the  size  of  a  Spanish 
quarter,  which  he  ostentatiously  displayed  as  he 
removed  his  cigar  from  his  mouth  and  discoursed 
upon  its  delectable  qualities.  He  smoked  none  but  the 
most "  hexpensive  cigars,"  those  manufactured  "  hespe- 
cially"  for  him  by  the  celebrated  Cabana.  He  had  con- 
siderable to  say  about  the  "  governor" — meaning  his 

10 


226  Savannah. 

paternal  ancestor — who,  it  seemed,  was  very  desirous 
that  a  tutor  should  accompany  his  son  on  his  travels ; 
to  which  the  youth  objected,  imagining,  no  doubt,  that 
it  would  be  an  impediment  to  his  free  and  easy  locomo- 
tion. He  thought  "  Hamerica  did  very  well  for  a  new 
country,  but  it  never  would  compare  with '  Hold  Hing- 
land.' "  During  a  conversation  with  one  of  the  passen- 
gers, I  heard  him  say  something  about  "  the  nup- 
tial haltar,"  evidently  referring  to  the  noose  matrimo- 
nial, which  is  a  halter  to  some,  and  a  silken  tie  to  others. 
Speaking  of  matrimony,  I  am  reminded  of  an 
amusing  incident  that  occurred  during  the  last  day  of 
our  voyage.  Among  the  passengers  were  a  newly 
married  couple  whose  disparity  in  age,  and  want  of 
"  spiritual  affinity,"  were  remarked  by  all  who  saw 
them.  The  gentleman  was  apparently  on  the  down- 
hill side  of  fifty,  while  the  lady  was  young  enough 
to  be  his  daughter,  even  had  he  not  been  married 
until  somewhat  late  in  life.  They  were  mated,  but 
not  matched;  and  joined  together  by  the  "iron  bands 
of  wedlock,"  not  by  the  holy  ties  of  mutual  love  and 
affection.  There  was  evidently  as  much  dissimilarity 
in  their  tastes  and  dispositions,  as  disparity  in  their 


A  Badly-Matched  Pair.  227 

ages.  The  husband  was  loving  and  devoted  ;  the  wife 
cold  and  indifferent.  lie  was  uxorious  and  demon- 
strative, while  she  was  imperturbable,  and  at  times 
almost  ill-natured.  Wherever  she  was,  there  he  would 
surely  be.  If  she  remained  on  deck,  he  was  by  her 
side.  If  she  went  below,  he  followed  her  like  a  sha- 
dow. This  continual  watchfulness  and  unremitting 
attention  were  apparently  annoying  to  her,  and  she 
spoke  to  him  at  times  somewhat  petu]antl3^  Still, 
the  good*natured  and  adoring  husband  did  not  relax 
in  his  attentions  to  his  younger  half,  but  tried  to  anti- 
cipate all  her  wants.  One  day,  during  an  unusually 
heavy  sea,  she  left  her  seat  on  the  deck  and  hastily 
retreated  to  the  cabin,  followed  by  her  husband.  In 
a  few  moments  he  returned,  with  fright  depicted  in 
his  countenance,  and  inquired  for  a  doctor,  saying 
that  his  wife  ''  had  been  suddenly  taken  very  ill,  and 
he  was  afraid  she  was  dying."  The  captain  was 
called,  and  after  making  a  few  inquiries  of  the  fright- 
ened husband,  sent  to  his  stateroom,  not  a  physician 
"but — a  chambermaid  with  a  basin.  The  finale  of  this 
ludicrous  affair  can  readily  be  imagined  by  those  at 
all  familiar  with  nautical  life.     *     *     ''^     #     ^-     * 


LETTER    XV. 

Montgomery,  Ala.,  April,  1866. 

My  last  letter  was  written  from  the  lovely  metro- 
polis of  genial,  warm-hearted  Georgia,  where  I 
remained  for  three  days,  just  long  enough  to  view  the 
city,  and  some  of  its  suburban  celebrities.  To  me, 
there  is  something  balmy  and  healing  associated  with 
Savannah  ;  its  very  name  being  suggestive  of  a  pecu- 
liar feature  of  southern  scenery.  Providence  intended 
it  as  a  kind  of  familiar  resting-place  between  the  frigid 
North  and  the  scorching  Tropics ;  its  mild,  equable 
atmosphere  preparing  the  cautious  invalid  for  a  tran- 
sition to  either  of  the  two  extremes. 

The  city  lies  about  eighteen  miles  from  the  sea  on 
the  Savannah  River,  a  stream  of  considerable  import- 
ance which  forms  the  dividing  line  between  South 
Carolina  and  Georgia,  and  is  of  no  inconsiderable  mag- 


Description  of  Savannah.  229 

nitude,  being  navigable,  during  a  part  of  the  year,  for 
vessels  of  large  tonnage  to  Savannah,  and  for  steam- 
boats almost  its  entire  length.  The  country  bordering 
on  the  Carolina  shore  is  low,  level,  and  unattractive  in 
appearance ;  but  the  soil  is  rich,  easily  irrigated,  and 
well  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  rice,  which  is  the 
principal  staple  of  the  Palmetto  State. 

Savannah  is  situated  on  a  sandy  bluff  or  strip  of 
table-land  some  thirty  or  forty  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  river,  and  has  a  population  of  twenty-four  thou- 
sand, including  free  blacks  and  slaves.  The  streets 
are  w^ide,  and  regularly  laid  out ;  with  twenty-four 
public  squares  or  parks,  which  are  filled  with  shade 
trees,  giving  to  the  city  a  peculiarly  rural  aspect. 
Among  the  trees  most  noticeable  were  the  noble  live- 
oak  ;  the  curious  mulberry ;  the  modest  elm  ;  the  fra- 
grant magnolia,  and  the  much  admired  Pride  of 
India,  which  was  just  beginning  to  bloom. 

This  has  been  very  aptly  denominated  "  the  city 
of  shade  and  silence."  It  is  certainly  the  most  pen- 
sive, quiet,  and  sober-looking  city  that  I  have  ever 
visited.  The  streets  are  all  hushed  and  silent  "  'neath 
the  cloistered  boughs"  of  umbrageous  trees,  the  foli- 


230  Montgomery. 

age  being  so  dense  that  dayliglit  is  almost  excluded  ; 
and  what  little  remains,  is  softened  down  to  a  per- 
petual twilight.     The  sand  is  so  deep  in  the  streets 
that  carriages  pass  along  as  noiselessly  as  gondolas  in 
the  canals  of  Venice.     The  few  people  to  be  seen 
out  of  doors,  and  the  absence  of  that  hum  of  busi- 
ness  incident  to   most   northern   cities,   render    the 
stillness   more   deep   and   apparent.      As  you  pass 
through  the  silent  and  almost  deserted  streets,  you 
wish  for  a  little  more  bustle  and  appearance  of  busi- 
ness.    The  quiet  is  really  oppressive.     You  are  not 
in  a  solitude,  but  surrounded  by  evidences  of  popu- 
lation ;  therefore,  you  feel  the  want  of  that  hum  inci- 
dent to  life,  just  as  much  as  when  wandering  in  the 
fields  and  groves,  you  long  for  the  music  of  birds, 
the  buzz  of  insects,  or  the  sounds  of  running  brooks 
and  waving  trees.     A  sabbath-day  stillness  prevails 
here   at  all   times,  and  were  it  not  that   the   shops 
and  places  of  business   are   closed   on   that   day,  it 
would   be   difficult  to  tell  when   Sunday   began   or 
ended. 

It  is  a  noticeable  fact  that  this  city  is  destitute  of 
any   prominent   thoroughfare — any   one   fashionable 


Laurel  Grove  Cemetery.  231 

street  for  promenade  and  shopping — where,  during 
pleasant  weather,  the  butterflies  of  fashion  can 

"  Shop,  and  lounge,  and  gaze,  and  stare, 
And  show  themselves, — and  take  the  air." 

No  one  street  that  I  saw,  seemed  to  be  pre-eminent. 
The  few  handsome  shops  and  stores  are  so  scattered 
about  the  city,  that  it  has  a  decidedly  rural  aspect — 
more  the  appearance  of  a  quiet  country  village,  than 
of  a  commercial  city.  In  one  of  the  principal  squares 
is  a  monument  to  General  Greene,  of  Kevolutionary 
fame.  Another  elegant  monument  is  now  being 
erected  in  Chippewa  square,  to  the  memory  of  Count 
Pulaski,  a  brave  Polish  officer  who  was  killed  during 
an  attack  on  Savannah  in  1779,  when  the  city  was 
in  the  possession  of  the  English. 

Savannah  has  many  suburban  attractions.  The 
country  around  is  pleasantly  diversified  with  hill  and 
valley,  winding  streams,  and  patches  of  wood-land. 
Just  beyond  the  limits  of  the  city  is  the  "Laurel  Grove 
Cemetery,"  a  quiet,  lovely  spot,  where  flowers  bloom 
upon  grassy  mounds,  and  vines  planted  by  the  hand 
of  affection  twine  their  tendrils  around  many  a  sculp- 


232  Montgomery. 

tured   shrine   where   repose   the   loved   ones   whose 
memories  are  thus  perpetuated. 

"Oh!  noiseless  city  of  the  mighty  dead! 

Lonely  and  mute,  yet  are  thy  annals  fraught 
With  solemn  teachings,  and  thy  hroad  page  spread 
With  the  rich  lore  of  soul-awakening  thought." 

Some  five  or  six  miles  from  here  is  the  Cemetery  of 
Buonaventura,  one  of  the  most  solemn  and  appropri- 
ate burial-places  imaginable.  Nature  has  done  more 
for  the  adornment  of  this  spot  than  Art.  It  contains 
no  elegant  mausoleums,  and  but  few  monuments  suf- 
ficiently conspicuous  to  attract  the  attention  of  the 
unobservant  visitor.  It  is  an  immense  grove  of  giant 
trees,  or  rather  a  succession  of  broad  avenues,  crossing 
each  other  at  right  angles,  carpeted  by  a  smooth  green- 
sward, and  bordered  with  stately  trees,  whose  far- 
reaching  branches  are  festooned  with  the  sombre-hued 
moss  peculiar  to  this  climate.  As  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach  are  vistas  of  interwoven  boughs ;  the  pendent 
drapery  in  wild  beauty  wreathes  the  patriarchal  oaks 
'till  the  "  mingled  fret- work"  seems  like  the  embodi- 
ment of  some  vast  cathedral  aisle.     There  was  some- 


Georgia  Cottonocracy.  233 

thing  peculiarly  attractive  to  me  in  the  gloomy  gran- 
deur of  this  forest  sanctuary;  a  weird,  unearthly 
beauty  in  its  silent  groves;  and  the  sighing  breeze, 
mournful  and  dirge-like,  as  it  was  wafted  through  the 
shadowy  aisles  of  Nature's  cloister,  served  to  lift  the 
soul 

*'  Above  the  thoughts  of  earth,  and  give  it  power 
Nearer  to  commune  with  its  kindred  Heaven." 

During  the  few  days  that  I  remained  in  Savannah, 
I  had  an  opportunity  to  see  something  of  the  Georgia 
Cottonocracy,  and  to  get  an  inkling  of  some  of  their 
peculiar  habits.  Almost  every  man  that  I  heard 
spoken  to  was  addressed  by  the  title  of  Judge,  Gover- 
nor, or  General.  Very  few  were  of  a  lower  grade  than 
Colonel,  and  to  be  called  Captain  or  Esquire  would 
indicate  a  person  of  doubtful  reputation,  or  at  least 
one  not  entitled  to  much  consideration.  The  planters 
residing  near  Savannah  usually  come  to  the  city  early 
in  the  morning  on  horseback,  or  in  crazy  one-horse 
chaises,  and  remain  during  the  day  at  the  Pulaski 
House  or  some  other  favorite  place  of  resort. 

A  Georgian  is  seldom  seen  walking  in  the  streets, 

10* 


234  Montgomery. 

particularly  during  the  heat  of  the  day.  If  from  any 
cause  he  is  obliged  to  resort  to  that  kind  of  locomo- 
tion, he  will  in  all  probability  be  accompanied  by  his 
"nigger,"  to  carry  his  coat  or  hold  an  umbrella  over 
his  head  to  keep  off  the  sun.  These  Southrons  have 
a  great  aversion  to  bodily  exercise.  It  is  a  popular 
maxim  with  them,  that  "  work  was  intended  for  nig- 
gers, not  for  gentlemen." 

They  are  constitutionally  or  climatically  indolent, 
and  will  sit  a  great  part  of  the  day  in  a  shady  place, 
smoking,  drinking  mint-juleps  (which  are  a  southern 
concoction),  discussing  the  price  of  cotton  and  rice,  or 
estimating  the  value  of  their  "niggers."  Occasionally 
they  will  wander  into  the  abstruse  regions  of  politics ; 
but  if  the  weather  is  very  hot,  that  exciting  topic  is 
avoided,  on  account  of  its  liability  to  engender  caloric 
and  bad  feelings.  The  subject  that  most  interests 
them  is  the  fleecy  product  of  the  cotton  plant.  It  is 
cotton  in  the  morning,  cotton  at  noon,  and  cotton  at 
night.  A  kind  of  cotton  insanit}^  appears  to  affect  all 
classes.  To  their  distempered  imaginations,  cotton  is 
the  pabulum  that  nourishes  and  sustains  the  entire 
North  and  "  the  rest  of  mankind  ;"  cotton,  the  "  open 


Macon.  235 

sesame"  to  wealth,  power,  honor,  and  personal  and 
national  aggrandizement;  cotton,  the  Atlas  which 
upholds  and  the  lever  that  moves  the  entire  world. 
In  fact,  thej  consider  cotton  the  vis  vitce — ''  the  one 
thing  needful."  Upon  it  is  based  the  boasted  power 
of  the  South,  which,  without  it,  would  sink  into  com- 
parative insignificance,  and  the  inhabitants  lose  their 
prestige  with  foreign  nations,  and  in  point  of  influ- 
ence he  hut  Utile  above  the  ^^  mudsilV^  Yankees  at  the 
North.         *         *         # 

I  left  on  the  morning  of  the  22d  instant  for  Macon, 
a  growing  inland  town  of  some  size,  situated  at  the 
head  of  steamboat  navigation  on  the  Ocmulge  River, 
and  about  two  hundred  miles  distant,   by   railroad, 
from  Savannah.     I  found  here  one  of  the  finest  rail- 
road depots  that  I  had  seen  since  I  left  the  ISTorth, 
also  a  good  hotel,  which  merits  "  golden  opinions,"  if 
it  does  not  reap  golden  rewards,  for  its  excellent  bill 
of  fare.     Oq  an  eminence  overlooking  the  town  is  the 
Georgia  Female  Seminary,  an  imposing  edifice,  under 
the  direction  of  the  Methodist  Conference,  which,  ac- 
cording to  their  published  circular,  was  "instituted 
for  the  purpose  of  giving  to  female  education  a  more 


236  Montgomery. 

systematic,  thorough,  and   extended   course  than  is 
now  to  be  obtained  in  our  best  seminaries." 

The  country  along  the  railroad,  between  Macon  and 
Savannah,  is  level  and  monotonous,  and  the  scenery, 
for  the  most  part,  tame  and  uninteresting.    We  passed 
through  immense   "pine   barrens,"    with   occasional 
patches  of  verdure,  and  innumerable  swamps  of  tan- 
gled wild-wood,  with  here  and  there  a  tall,  melancholy 
cypress,  with  its  trailing  garments  of  moss,  looking 
the  very  impersonation  of  gloom.     The  soil,  as  far  as 
I  could  judge,  was  mostly  sand  and  a  red  clay,  and 
the  principal  productions  corn,  cotton,  and  tobacco, 
with  occasional  fields  of  rice  wherever  the  land  could 
be  overflowed.    We  passed  numerous  gangs  of  slaves 
at  work  on  the  road,  or  going  from  one  plantation  to 
another  with  their  tools  in  their  hands;    and  they 
would  invariably  "  lay  down  the  shovel  and  the  hoe," 
strike  an  attitude,  and  with  a  comical  grin  gaze  at  the 
retreating  cars  until  they  were  out  of  sight. 

I  spent  the  next  night  at  Columbus,  a  staid,  sober, 
puritanical  looking  town,  where  many  of  the  streets 
were  so  wide  and  covered  with  verdure  that  they 
looked  more  like  longitudinal  parks  than  highways 


The  Falls  of  the  Coweta.  237 

for  travel.  Some  of  the  streets  are  said  to  be  nearly 
two  hundred  feet  in  width,  and  the  buildings  set  so  fiir 
back  that  the  place  has  more  the  appearance  of  a 
thickly  settled  rural  district  than  of  a  city  of  some  ten 
thousand  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on  the  Chatta- 
hoochee Eiver,  which  is,  at  this  point,  the  dividing 
line  between  Georgia  and  Alabama,  and  is  said  to 
have  the  finest  water-power  in  the  state.  I  remained 
there  but  one  night,  and  had  no  opportunity  to  sec 
much  of  the  city,  my  observations  being  confined  to  a 
few  of  the  streets  near  the  principal  hotel.  I  learned, 
on  inquiry,  that  most  of  the  business  was  transacted 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  river,  where  there  are  a  number 
of  mills,  manufactories,  and  foundries  in  successful 
operation. 

A  short  distance  above  Columbus  are  some  pictu- 
resque rapids  in  the  Chattahoochee,  overlooked  by  a 
fine  rocky  bluff,  famous  in  story  as  the  "Lover's 
Leap."*  The  flow  of  the  river  is  rapid  and  wild, 
broken  by  rocks,  over  which  the  water  frets  and  foams 
in  angry  surges.     On  each  side  are  lofty  and  irregular 

*  The  following  account  is  condensed  from  the  narrative  of  T.  A. 
Richards,  published  by  the  Appletona. 


238  Montgomery. 

cliffs,  covered  to  their  verge  with  majestic  forest  trees. 
Near  here  are  the  Falls  of  Coweta. 

In  the  early  part  of  the  present  century,  this  region 
was  inhabited  by  two  powerful  tribes  of  Indians — the 
Cussetas  and  the  Cowetas.  Formerly  they  were  friends, 
but  then  the  bitterest  of  enemies.  It  is  not  related 
how  this  animosity  originated,  or  how  long  it  had 
existed;  but  it  had  rankled  and  burned  in  their 
breasts  until  its  pent-up  fury  was  ready  to  break  out 
at  any  fancied  insult  or  trivial  cause. 

The  proud  chief  of  the  Cussetas  had  now  become  an 
old  man,  and  was  loved  and  venerated  by  all  who 
rallied  at  his  battle-cry.  The  boldest  heart  in  all  his 
tribe  quailed  before  his  angry  eye,  and  the  proudest 
did  him  reverence.  The  old  man  had  outlived  all  his 
sons.  One  by  one  they  had  been  called  by  the  Great 
Spirit  from  their  hunting  grounds,  and  in  the  flush  of 
their  manhood  had  gone  to  the  spirit-land.  Yet  he 
was  not  alone.  The  youngest  of  his  children,  the 
dark-eyed  Mohina,  was  still  sheltered  in  his  bosom, 
and  all  his  love  for  the  beautiful  in  life  was  bestowed 
upon  her.  The  young  maiden  rivalled  in  grace  the 
bounding  fawn,  and  the  young  warriors  said  of  her, 


The  Lover's  Leap.  239 

that  "  the  smile  of  the  Great  Spirit  was  not  so  beauti- 
ful."    While  yet  a  child,  she  had  been  betrothed  to 
the  Young  Eagle  of  the  Cowetas,  the  proud  scion  of 
their   warrior  chief.      But  stern  hatred  had  stifled 
kindly  feelings  in  the  hearts  of  all  save  these  two 
young  creatures,  and  the  pledged  word  was  broken 
when  the  smoke  of  the  calumet  was  extinguished. 
Mohina  no  longer  dared  to  meet  the  young  chief 
openly,  and  death  faced  them  when  they  sat  in  their 
lone,  wild  trysting-place.      Their  young  hearts   had 
hopes  in  the  future,  but  all  in  vain,  for  time  served 
but  to  render  more  fierce  and  deadly  the  hatred  which 
existed   between    the   tribes.      Skirmishes  were   fre- 
quent between  the  hunters,  and  open  hostilities  seemed 
inevitable. 

At  length  a  jealous  rival  of  the  young  Coweta 
tracked  the  maiden  to  the  place  of  meeting,  and 
peering  through  the  tangled  underwood,  saw  her  in 
the  arms  of  her  lover,  and  heard  from  his  lips  ''sweet 
words  and  passionate."  He  sped  back  to  the  Cusse- 
tas,  gathered  together  their  warriors,  and  hastened  to 
the  wild  glen  where  the  lovers  were  secreted.  They 
fled  on  the  approach  of  their  enemies,  and  love  and 


240  Montgomery. 

terror  added  wings  to  their  flight.     For  a  while  they 
outran  their  pursuers ;    but  the  strength  of  Mohina 
failed  her  in  a  perilous  moment,  and  had  not  the 
Young  Eagle  caught  her  to  his  fast  beating  heart,  the 
enemy  would  have .  made  sure  their  fate.     He  rushed 
onward  up  the  narrow  defile  before  him,  and  in  a  few 
moments  stood  on  the  verge  of  a  dizzy,  fearful  height. 
"Wildly  the  maiden  clung  to  him,  and  even  then,  at 
that  critical  moment,  his  heart  throbbed  proudly  be- 
neath his  burden.    Already  he  heard  the  deep,  labored 
breathing  of  one  of  his  pursuers — the  hated  rival;  and, 
as  he  slightly  turned  his  head,  the  gleam  of  an  uplifted 
tomahawk  flashed  upon  his  eye.      The  young  chief 
gave  him  one  quick,  piercing  look,  and  with  a  loud 
yell  of  triumph  sprang  into  the  seething  waters  below. 
Still  the  young  maiden  clung  to  him,  nor  yet  did  the 
death-struggle  part  them.     The  mad  waves  dashed 
fearfully  over  them,  and  their  loud  wail  was  a  fitting 
requiem    to    their  departing  spirits.      The   horror- 
stricken  warriors  gazed  wildly  into  the  foaming  tor- 
rent, then  dashed  with  reckless  haste  down  the  decli- 
vity to  bear  the  sad  tidings  to  the  old  chief.    He  heard 
their  tale  in  silence ;  but  sorrow  was  on  his  spirit,  and 


Appearance  of  the  Country.  241 

it  was  broken.  Henceforth  liis  seat  was  vacant  by  the 
council  fire,  and  its  red  hght  gleamed  fitfully  upon  his 
grave.         *         -x-         * 

After  leaving  Columbus  we  crossed  the  Chattahoo- 
chee River  into  Alabama,  and  proceeded  by  rail  to 
this  city,  which  is  the  capital  of  this  state,  and  next  in 
commercial  importance  to  Mobile.  When  we  entered 
Alabama,  the  appearance  of  the  country  began  to  im- 
prove. The  soil  was  better;  the  agricultural  districts 
richer ;  the  scenery  more  varied ;  and  all  kinds  of 
veo^etation  further  advanced.  Swellins^  hills  crowned 
with  trees  in  full  foliage,  and  rich  valleys  and  fertile 
plains  clad  in  living  verdure,  with  tiny  streams  mean- 
dering in  the  distance,  formed  a  picture  on  which  the 
eye  delighted  to  linger. 

I  arrived  in  this  city  late  in  the  afternoon,  and 
secured  a  room  at  one  of.  the  best  hotels,  although  it 
does  not  compare  favorably  with  our  third-rate  New 
York  hotels,  and  is  not  such  as  a  stranger  would 
expect  to  find  in  a  town  as  large  as  this,  and  of  equal 
commercial  and  political  importance.  I  shall  remain 
here  for  several  days,  and  will  write  again  before  I 
take  my  departure.         *         *         * 


LETTER    XVI. 

MOXTGOMERY,   April,  1856. 

There  is  a  dreamy  languor  in  the  climate  of  the 
South,  which  indisposes  one  to  exertion,  and  even  the 
effort  of  letter  writing — which,  under  ordinary  cir- 
cumstances, is  but  ^^  a  labor  of  love" — appears  to  me, 
at  this  time,  to  be  an  almost  herculean  task, 

Montgomery  is  located  at  the  head  of  steamboat 
navigation  on  the  Alabama  River,  three  hundred 
and  thirty-one  miles  from  Mobile,  and  has  a  popula- 
tion of  about  ten  thousand.  It  is  the  western  termi- 
nus of  the  Monto^omerv  and  West  Point  railroad, 
and  has  water  communication  with  several  important 
places.  Its  commerce  is  based  mainly  upon  corn  and 
cotton,  about  one  hundred  thousand  bales  of  the 
fleecy  product  being  annually  shipped  at  this  place. 
In  the  way  of  manufiictures,  Montgomery  does  but 


Environs  of  Montgomery.  243 

little,  except,  as  some  one  has  said,  "  to  manufacture 
the  politics  of  the  State."  It  is  the  great  political 
centre  of  the  Gulf  States,  and  the  congregating  place 
for  southern  politicians,  newspaper  reporters,  ofiice- 
seekers,  et  hoc  genus  omne. 

The  city  is  beautifully  situated.  The  business  por- 
tion is  in  a  valley  extending  nearly  to  the  river ; 
while  the  capitol  occupies  an  eminence  overlooking 
the  lower  part  of  the  city,  and  the  country  which  lies 
beyond  it.  Encircling  this  valley  is  a  succession  of 
hills  and  gentle  undulations,  forming  as  it  were  a 
natural  amphitheatre  dotted  with  villas  and  country- 
seats.  I  made  the  circuit  on  horseback.  Every  emi- 
nence that  I  ascended,  revealed  some  new  object  to 
admire  ;  some  Italian  villa  or  cottage  orne  peeping  out 
from  its  wilderness  of  shrubbery,  or  a  lordly  mansion 
reposing  in  dignity  beneath  the  perennial  sbade  of 
giant  live-oaks — the  acknowledged  monarchs  of  the 
southern  forests.  I  rode  for  several  hours  through 
these  delightfully  picturesque  suburbs,  and  had  my 
admiration  excited  at  every  step.  Nature  created 
this  a  paradise.  Art  adorned  and  beautified  it.  But 
in  this  flowery  Eden  the  trail  of  the  serpent  is  visible. 


244  Montgomery. 

Notwithstanding  its  elevated  location,  the  city  is  said 
to  be  quite  unhealthy.  The  yellow  fever,  that  pesti- 
lential scourge  of  the  South,  prevails  here  at  times  to 
an  alarming  extent,  and  other  diseases  less  virulent 
in  their  nature  seem  to  be,  as  it  were,  indigenous  to 
this  locality. 

During  my  rambles  I  came  to  a  spot  of  such  quiet 
beauty  and  loveliness,  that  I  stopped  and  gazed  upon 
it  for  a  long  time  in  silent  admiration.     It  was  an 
inclosure  of  two  or  three  acres,  on  w^hose  swelling 
bosom  of  velvet  softness  reposed  a  modest  little  cot- 
tage almost  buried  in  a  wilderness  of  foliage  and 
flowers.      Standing  near  were  two  parental  oaks,  the 
protecting  deities  of  the  place,   whose  gigantic,  out- 
stretched limbs,  gnarled  and  defiant,  strove  in  vain  to 
meet  above,  and  hide  their  offspring  from  the  face  of 
the  over-arching  sky.     Encircling  this  classic  retreat 
was   a  perennial  hedge    almost    smothered    in    the 
embrace  of  creeping  vines  and  plants  in  full  bloom. 
Koses  of  various  hues,  and  the  fragrant  honeysuckle 
and  yellow  flowering  jasmine,    were    intermingled, 
yielding  alike  their  perfume  to  the  breeze,  and  filling 
the  surrounding  air  with  the  purest  life. 


A  Fast  City.  245 

"  A  sweeter  spot  on  earth  was  never  found  : 
I  looked  and  looked,  and  still  with  new  delight, 
Such  joy  my  soul,  such  pleasures  filled  my  sight."" 

Time  flew  on  angels'  wings,  and  the  shades  of  evening 
were  fast  gathering,  before  1  became  conscious  of  the 
lateness  of  the  hour.  Returning  to  the  hotel,  I  supped, 
and  then  wandered  in  the  streets,  which  were  as  bril- 
liant as  handsome  ladies  and  gas  could  make  them. 
The  shops  and  stores  are  all  of  modern  style,  and 
apparently  well  stocked  with  fashionable  goods. 
Progress  is  unmistakably  written  on  everything. 
Fogyism,  that  ancient  enemy  of  enterprise  and 
improvement,  had  fled  at  the  first  scream  of  the 
steam- whistle,  and  has  not  been  seen  here  since.  It 
is  evidently  a  fast  city,  with  its  fast  horses,  fast  men, 
and  fast  women.  The  latter  are  said  to  be  the  best  in 
a  long  race,  and  generally  manage  to  distance  all  their 
competitors.  •  I  find  that  two-forty  is  the  stand- 
ard time  here  among  bipeds  as  well  as  quadrupeds, 
and  those  of  less  speed  are  excluded  from  the  course 
bv  the  arbiters  of  fashion. 

The   celebrated  violinist  Ole  Bull  gave  a  concert 


246  Montgomery. 

here  the  other  evening,  assisted,  according  to  the  bills, 
"  by  an  eminent  pianist,  a  celebrated  performer  on  the 
cornet,  and  a  distinguished  Prima  Donna."  The 
latter  title  was  evidently  a  misnomer ;  as  the  lady,  in 
my  opinion,  was  not  sufficiently  skilled  in  the  art  of 
melody  to  be  entitled  to  the  first  place  in  any  opera, 
unless  an  Ethiopian  burlesque. 

Ole  himself  is  in  a  very  good  state  of  preservation, 
considering  that  his  life  has  been  one  of  disappoint- 
ments, reverses,  and  vicissitudes.  He  is  not  likely  to 
hang  up  his  fiddle  and  his  bow  for  some  years  to 
come,  unless  so  ordered  by  Providence ;  although  I 
observed  that  the  frosty  fingers  of  Time  had  been  play- 
ing with  his  locks  and  left  their  indelible  impress. 

Montgomery  has  more  the  air  and  appearance  of  a 
New  York  town  than  any  Southern  city  that  I  have 
yet  visited.  Notwithstanding  its  Northern  aspect, 
most  of  the  inhabitants  are  ultra  Southerners,  who 
adhere  with  tenacity  to  their  "peculiar  institutions." 
The  legislature  not  being  in  session,  I  have  not  had 
an  opportunity  to  see  much  of  the  office-holding  and 
office-seeking  chivalry.  Many  of  the  guests  of  our 
hotel  appear  to  be  members  of  the  legal  profession  ; 


The  Fleecy  Product.  247 

at  least,  so  I  judged  from  tbeir  attachment  to  the  har- 
room,  which  is  the  best  patronized  part  of  tlie  house. 
Its  patrons,  however,  do  not  all  seem  to  be  professional 
men  ;  but  planters,  cotton -brokers,  and  others  without 
any  particular  business  or  occupation.  The  topic 
most  frequently  discussed  is  cotton,  and  "  niggers," 
which  being  rather  a  dry  subject,  those  engaged  in  it 
were  often  obliged  to  resort  to  the  bar,  to  lubricate 
their  vocal  organs,  so  that  they  may  be  understood 
by  those  around  them. 

Montgomery  has  become  a  great  mart  for  cotton. 
Kearly  all  that  is  grown  in  Central  Alabama  is 
brought  to  this  city  to  be  shipped  down  the  river, 
which  flows  for  more  than  four  hundred  miles  through 
the  richest  cotton  region  of  the  South,  and  carries 
each  year  thousands  of  bales  of  this  valuable  com- 
modity to  Mobile  and  New  Orleans.  Cotton  is  in 
reality  the  circulating  blood  w^hich  gives  vitality 
to  the  state.  All  classes  are  interested  in  its  culture, 
from  the  princely  merchant  to  the  lowly  artisan  ;  the 
wealthy  planter  with  his  broad  fields  and  army  of 
slaves,  as  well  as  the  humble  occupant  of  a  cabin 
with  a  few  contiguous  acres.     A  failure  of  the  cotton 


248  Montgomery. 

crop  would  cast  a  gloom  over  the  entire  community. 
It  would  paralyze  their  internal  commerce,  create  a 
panic  in  their  monetary  affairs,  and  be  absolutely 
ruinous  to  all  planters  of  small  means.  Negroes, 
unlike  their  masters,  are  never  affected  by  the  price  of 
cotton.  Sometimes  their  market  value  is  slightly 
diminished  by  a  failure  of  the  crop,  or  increased 
somewhat  by  an  abundant  harvest ;  yet  they,  as  a 
class,  are  generally  indifferent  to  its  fluctuations.  If 
they  are  not  over- tasked  or  abused,  and  have  a  suffi- 
ciency of  creature  comforts,  they  appear  to  be  satis- 
fied and  happy. 

I  find  that  the  cost  of  living  at  the  South,  especially 
in  cities  and  large  towns,  is  considerably  greater  than 
at  the  Korth.  I  was  told  by  a  wealthy  resident  of  this 
city  that  it  would  be  cheaper  for  him  to  board  with 
his  entire  family — some  eight  or  ten  in  number — at 
any  of  the  first-class  hotels  in  New  York,  than  to 
keep  house  here,  notwithstanding  he  owned  all  his 
family  servants  and  the  dwelling  he  occupied.  Most 
kinds  of  food,  with  the  exception  of  those  Southern 
staples^  "  hog  and  hominy,"  are  very  dear,  and  the 
supply  is  not  always  equal  to  the  demand.     At  least 


A  Slave  Household  Expensive.       249 

I  have  found  it  so  in  several  cases  when  my  appe-- 
tite  has  been  sharpened  by  travel.  Many  of  their 
luxuries  are  brought  from  the  North,  but  frequently, 
when  they  reach  their  place  of  destination,  they  no 
longer  deserve  the  name,  time  and  the  climate  having 
so  impaired  their  edible  qualities  as  to  render  them 
only  fit  to  be  used  in  the  manufacture  of  bacon. 

The  keeping  of  so  many  slaves  about  their  dwell- 
ings is  an  important  item  in  the  expense  of  living. 
ISTot  that  the  food  they  eat  and  the  clothes  they  wear, 
cost  so  very  much ;  but  they  are  idle,  careless,  and 
destructive,  and  wasteful  to  excess.  In  the  culinary 
department,  every  article  of  food,  whether  prepared 
or  in  a  crude  state,  has  to  be  kept  under  lock  and 
key  ;  and  when  wanted  for  use,  weighed  or  measured 
Out,  or  it  will  be  wasted  or  dispensed  with  ruinous 
prodigality,  I  have  observed,  in  passing  some  of 
their  first-class  residences,  the  yard  literally  swarming 
with  these  human  chattels ;  frequently  a  dozen  or 
more  in  sight,  of  both  sexes,  and  comprising  at  least 
three  generations.  Of  that  number,  perhaps  not 
more  than  two  or  three  were  of  any  service  to  their 

owner;   the   rest  being  incapacitated   for   work,    by 

11 


250  Montgomery. 

•youtb,  infirmity,  or  age.  I  have  no  doubt  that  two 
or  three  domestics  of  the  Teutonic  or  Celtic  race,  at  a 
cost  of  as  many  hundred  dollars  per  annum,  will  do 
more  work,  and  with  much  less  waste,  than  a  wdiole 
family  of  slaves,  whose  yearly  keeping  and  wasting 
cannot  be  accounted  less  than  from  eight  to  twelve 
hundred  dollars. 

Slave  labor  undoubtedly  is  profitable  to  the  owners 
or  occupants  of  large  inland  plantations,  away  from 
cities  and  towns,  where  the  able-bodied  of  both  sexes 
are  made  available  as  field  hands.  But  here,  as  well 
as  in  other  populous  places  at  the  South,  where  they 
are  mainl}^  employed  as  house  servants,  or  in  taking 
care  of  the  premises  of  their  owners,  the  labor  of  the 
few  hardly  compensates  for  the  cost  of  maintaining 
the  many.  This  class  of  servants  are -allowed  more 
liberties  than  plantation  negroes ;  of  these  they  take 
advantage,  and  shirk  labor  whenever  they  can. 

To  a  IN'ortherner  imbued  with  republican  principles 
and  inheriting  the  sentiments  and  prejudices  of  his 
Puritan  ancestors,  the  existence  of  slavery,  in  its  most 
favorable  form,  must  appear  unnatural  and  forbidding. 
But  a  few  months'  residence  at  the  South  will,  I  opine, 


Slave  Laws  of  Cuba.  251 

so  change  his  views  and  soften  his  prejudices  that  he 
will  regard  the  system  with  less  abhorrence.  I  am  no 
friend  to  slavery  in  the  abstract,  neither  do  I  admire 
the  practical  workings  of  the  system,  as  it  is  not  in 
accordance  with  my  views  of  equal-rights  and  uni- 
versal freedom.  Yet  from  observations  made  durincr 
a  two  months'  residence  at  the  South,  I  am  convinced 
that  the  slaves,  as  a  class,  are  not  so  badly  off  as 
many  of  us  suppose.  They  are  generally  well  treated, 
and  enjoy  as  many,  if  not  more  physical  comforts 
than  a  majority  of  the  free  negroes  at  the  North  ;  and 
I  am  inclined  to  believe  that  the  masters  are,  on  the 
ivJioIe,  more  to  he  pitied  than  the  slaves  themselves. 

The  laws  of  Cuba  are  more  favorable  to  emancipa- 
tion, and  protect  the  negro  far  better  than  do  ours. 
The  slaves  on  that  island,  according  to  the  Code, 
must  be  worked  only  a  specified  number  of  hours 
each  day,  and  their  masters  are  obliged  to  provide 
them  with  a  permanent '  subsistence.  On  Sundays 
and  holidays  they  are  allowed  to  work  in  their  own 
gardens,  or  employ  their  time  as  they  choose.  Being 
by  law  protected  in  the  enjoyment  of  a  certain  amount 
of  property,  they  can,  if  disposed,  apply  their  earnings 


252  Montgomery. 

to  the  purcLase  of  their  own  freedom.  The  value 
of  a  slave,  which  is  established  by  arbitration,  in 
no  case  exceeds  five  hundred  dollars,  although  his 
market  value  may  be  considerably  more;  and  as 
soon  as  he  has  accumulated  fiftv  dollars,  his  mas- 
ter  is  obliged  to  accept  it  towards  the  purchase  of 
his  freedom.  Every  instalment  thus  made  secures 
for  the  slave  a  proportionate  control  of  his  own  time, 
and  it  is  not  uncommon  to  see  slaves  who  have  three 
or  four  days  in  the  week  at  their  disposal.  In  case 
he  should  be  sold  before  the  expiration  of  his  bondage, 
the  amount  he  has  paid  must  be  carried  to  his  credit 
by  the  new  owner.  A  slave  may  also  have  the  bene- 
fit of  a  change  of  masters  provided  he  can  show  that 
he  has  been  ill  used.  If,  however,  he  can  find  some 
one  willing  to  become  his  purchaser,  and  the  parties 
cannot  agree  upon  his  value,  they  go  before  a  com- 
missioner appointed  by  government,  who  fixes  a  price, 
which  the  owner  is  obliged  to  accept,  and  in  return 
make  out  a  bill  of  sale  to  the  new  purchaser.  The 
negro  may  have  so  bad  a  reputation  that  he  cannot 
find  any  one  willing  to  buy  him.  In  that  event,  he 
remains  with  his  master,   who  havins;  taken  him  for 


Separation  of  Families.  253 

worse  instead  of  hetter^  as  the  ladies  sometimes  take 
their  husbands,  is  obliged  to  feed,  clothe,  and  take 
care  of  him  during  sickness  and  health,  in  decrepitude 
and  age.  But  the  slaves  in  Cuba  are  regarded  by 
their  owners  more  as  chattels  than  human  beings, 
and  there  exists  none  of  that  affectionate  regard  so 
often  manifested  between  master  and  servant  in  the 
Southern  States.  The  slaves  here,  as  a  class,  are 
more  contented  and  happy,  and  apparently  much 
better  off  than  most  of  the  emancipated  negroes. 
The  free  negroes  of  the  South,  to  speak  paradoxically, 
are  not  in  reality  as  free  as  the  slaves  themselves,  and 
are  apparently  less  happy  and  contented.  Even  the 
African  in  his  bondage  feels  his  own  superiority,  and 
looks  the  very  picture  of  contemptuous  pity  as  he 
exclaims — "  He,  poor  miserable  nigger,  has  no  massa 
to  take  care  of  him." 

Among  the  many  objectionable  features  in  the 
institution  of  slavery,  the  separation  of  families  and 
the  sundering  of  conjugal  ties  have  always  appeared 
to  me  the  most  odious  and  inhuman.  I  find,  on 
inquiry,  that  this  is  seldom  practised — at  least,  not  to 
very  great  extent ;  and  from  the  slaves  themselves, 


254  Montgomery. 

I  learn  that  this  separation,  when  it  does  exist,  is  not 
generally  regarded  by  them  as  a  very  great  affliction. 

I  had  a  conversation  a  few  days  ago  with  an  unc- 
tuous specimen  of  Ham-amij  by  the  name  of  "Nick," 
who  was  as  black  as  his  Satanic  namesake,  but  of 
fewer  evil  propensities,  if  there  is  any  truth  in  phy- 
siognomy,    I  asked  him  his  age. 

"  Thirty  seben  nighabouts,  Massa  !"  said  he,  respect- 
fully touching  his  hat. 

"  Are  you  married,  Nick  ?" 

"  Yas,  Massa,  I  spose  I  is !" 

"How  many  children  have  you?" 

"  Wall,  I  spects  I'm  de  fader  of  ten,  yaw,  yaw." 
Here  he  displayed  a  set  of  teeth  that  would  have 
excited  the  envy  of  many  a  Northern  belle. 

"  Ten  children  ?  Why,  Nick,  that  is  quite  a  family 
for  so  young  a  man  as  you  !" 

"  Why  yas,  Massa,  Ise  some  on  children  !" 

"  How  old  is  your  wife  ?" 

"  Do-no  zackly,  but  reckon  she  be  some  younger 
dan  me !" 

"  Is  she  stout  and  healthy  ?" 

"  She  be  all  dat,  massa  !" 


Talk  with  a  Slave.  255 

"  Does  she  belong  to  your  master'^" 

"  ]Sr o,  her  massa  lives  a  heap  ways  from  here  !" 
. "  How  often  do  3'ou  go  to  see  her  ?" 

"Do-no  zacklv,  sometimes  once  a  month,  and  some- 
times  nary  as  often  !" 

"  Wouldn't  you  like  to  see  your  wife  and  children 
more  frequently  ?" 

"  I  do-no,  sar,  sometimes  I  tink  I  would,  but  massa 
says  I  go  dare  nuff,  and  he  knows  better  dan  me." 

This  conversation  occurred  nearly  as  I  have  related 
it,  and  is  a  fair  specimen  of  the  stolidity  and  indiffe- 
rence of  the  negroes  on  most  of  the  Southern  planta- 
tions. I  refer  to  the  genuine,  full-blooded  African, 
before  his  admixture  with  the  gentle  blood  of  the 
chivalric  South,  for,  to  use  a  sporting  phrase,  "  blood 
will  tell,"  whether  it  be  in  the  horses  of  the  Korth, 
or  in  the  colored  chattels  of  the  South.  It  is  some- 
thing that  will  reveal  itself  whether  in  man  or  beast. 
But  a  truce  to  this  nonsense,  this  dark  rendering  of  a 
dark  subject. 

I  came  to  this  city  contemplating  a  trip  down  the 
Alabama  River  to  Mobile,  and  from  there  to  New 
Orleans,  but  the  weather  is  becoming  so  hot  that  I 


256  Montgomery. 

almost  fear,  in  my  present  state  of  health,  to  risk  a 
visit  to  those  "infected  districts,"  or  to  trust  myself 
for  three  or  four  days  on  a  crowded  steamer,  with 
indifferent  accommodations.  If  I  abandon  this  trip, 
I  shall  seek  a  more  invigorating  climate.  My  next 
letter  will  probably  be  from  New  Orleans  or  ISTash- 
ville.     ******     '5«' 


LETTER    XVII. 

Nashville,  Tenn.,  J/ay,  1856. 
My  last  letter  was  written  from  Montgomery,  that 
lovely  city  in  the  green  heart  of  Alabama,  where  I 
spent  a  few  days  very  pleasantly.  My  route  from 
there  lay  in  an  easterly  direction,  for  nearly  a  hun- 
dred miles,  to  the  Chattahoochee  River,  and  being 
diversified  by  hill  and  dale,  woodland  and  stream, 
was  highly  picturesque.  I  was  surprised  to  see  so 
many  varieties  of  trees,  shrubs,  and  creeping  vines  in 
the  forests  and  swamps  through  which  we  passed. 
There  was  the  stately  live-oak,  the  melancholy  elm, 
the  mournful  cj-press,  the  green-leaved  laurel,  the 
white-canopied  dog-wood,  and  the  scarlet-flowering 
red-wood,  with  its  leafless  branches  thickl}^  covered 
with  delicate  rose-tinted  flowers.    Conspicuous  among 

the  shrubs  and  vines  was  the  wild  honeysuckle  with 

11* 


258  Nashville. 

its  odorous  breath,  and  the  yellow-flowering  jasmine 
overburdened  with  fragrance  and  wreathing  with 
graceful  festoons  the  stately  oak  and  lonely  shrub. 

After  we  crossed  the  Chattahoochee  into  Georgia, 
the  country  appeared  less  highly  cultivated,  and  the 
face  of  ]^ature  less  attractive.  The  same  change  was 
visible  in  the  faces  of  the  inhabitants  along  our  route, 
showing  that  animate  as  well  as  inanimate  Nature  is 
impressible  and  assimilating  in  its  character,  and,  like 
the  chameleon,  "  assumes  the  hue  of  the  object  with 
which  it  comes  in  contact."  Our  train  proceeded 
quite  slowly,  and  stopped  long  enough  at  every  sta- 
tion to  enable  me  to  see  something  of  the  country  and 
the  inhabitants ;  and  I  must  say  that  I  was  not  favora- 
bly impressed  with  the  fertility  of  the  one  or  the  pros- 
perity and  enterprise  of  the  other.  The  land  was 
evidently  not  more  than  half  cultivated,  and  the  build- 
ings were  rude  and  primitive  in  appearance — unlike 
most  of  our  comfortable  farm-houses  at  the  North. 

Cotton-,  rice,  and  sweet  potatoes  are  the  principal 
staples  of  Greorgia ;  although  the  small  farms  in  the 
interior  produce  pigs  and  poultry,  Indian  corn  and 
tobacco,  with  a  few  kinds  of  grain  for  home  consump- 


Natural  Productions  of  Georgia.       259 

tion.  The  most  valuable  "domestic  animals"  are  alli- 
gators, negroes,  rattlesnakes,  pickaninnies,  and  scor- 
pions, which  are  indigenous  to  this  climate,  and  grow 
spontaneously  in  the  numerous  lagoons,  swamps,  and 
rivers.  But  I  am  tar  from  wishing  to  disparage  this 
state,  which  is,  without  doubt,  one  of  the  most  wealthy 
and  enterprising  of  the  cotton  states.  "With  a  diver- 
sity of  soil,  and  a  climate  half  tropical,  Georgia  has 
within  itself  abundant  sources  of  prosperity  and 
wealth.  Its  extensive  domains  are  traversed  by  navi- 
gable rivers,  and  its  eighty  miles  of  sea-coast  are  lined 
with  islands,  fertile  in  sea-island  cotton,  and  capable 
of  producing  many  tropical  fruits  and  vegetables. 
The  soutliern  part  is  low,  level,  and  interspersed  with 
swamps,  which  are  well  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of 
rice.  In  the  interior  are  rich  alluvial  bottoms  and 
table-lands,  suited  to  .the  growth  of  the  different  kinds 
of  cotton ;  while  many  parts  of  the  north,  though 
mountainous  and  apparently  almost  sterile,  will,  if 
properly  cultivated,  yield  a  fair  compensation  to  the 
husbandman. 

I  evidently  passed  through  the  most  unattractive 
portion  of  the  state ;  for  I  saw  nothing  in  inanimate 


26o  Nashville. 

nature  to  admire,  altliougli  I  was  greatly  amused  at 
some  of  tlie  animate  objects  wliicli  came  under  mj 
observation.  The  inhabitants,  as  a  class,  were  cer- 
tainly the  most  unpolished  specimens  of  humanity 
that  I  ever  met.  But,  without  doubt,  many  of  these 
rough  back-woods-men  were  "the  bone  and  sinew"  of 
our  country ;  men  of  strong  hands  and  warm  hearts, 
and  worthy  of  our  highest  respect. 

During  this  excursion,  I  saw  for  the  first  time  a 
genuine  specimen  of  the  "Georgia  cracker,"  fresh  from 
the  pine  barrens  of  his  native  state ;  so  that  this  embo- 
diment of  the  spirit  of  youthful  romance  and  imagina- 
tion is  no  longer  a  myth,  but  a  creature  of  flesh  and 
blood — a  veritable  history,  in  which  he  is  chronicled 
as  the  only  being  on  airth  capable  of  "  administering 
consolation"  to  a  live  Yankee,  or  cute  enough  to  out- 
wooden-nutmeg  an   itinerant  Connecticut  clock-ped- 
ler.     He  entered  the  cars  at  a  small  way -station  near 
the  town  of  La  Grange,  carrying  on  his  arm  a  pair  of 
old-fashioned  russet-leather  saddle-bags  (large  enough 
to  have  contained  a  week's  ]Drovender  for  man  and 
beast),  which  he  hung  on  the  back  of  an  unoccupied 
seat,  and  seated  himself  with  his  face  towards  me,  as 


A  "Georma  Cracker."  261 


to 


if  to  give  me  a  better  opportunity  to  study  his  jyhysique. 
In  person  he  was  tall,  lean,  and  lantern-jawed,  having 
what  might  be  termed  "a  vegetable  countenanee," 
with  carroty  hair,  radish  cheeks,  and  a  turn-up  nose. 
He  was  dressed  in  a  bran-new  suit  of  linsey-woolsey, 
with  a  hat  considerably  the  worse  for  wear,  which  had 
once  evidently  been  black,  but  was  now  pretty  nearly 
dun.  One  side  of  his  face  appeared  to  be  swollen,  the 
cause  of  which  was  soon  revealed;  his  hu2:e  nether- 
jaw  relaxed,  his  mouth  opened,  and  a  large  quid  of 
tobacco  was  dropped  on  the  floor,  where  it  remained 
a  steaming  mass  of  juice-extracted  vegetation — an 
oasis  in  the  desert  waste  surrounding  it.  Then  his 
deep  pockets  were  fathomed,  and  a  huge  plug  of 
"  Virginia  pig-tail"  was  inserted  between  his  capacious 
jaws.  After  considerable  twisting  and  wrenching, 
accompanied  by  mirth-moving  contortions  of  counte- 
nance, he  succeeded  in  sundering  a  fragment,  which 
he  "rolled  as  a  sweet  morsel  under  his  tongue." 
Turning  partly  around  and  elevating  his  feet,  he  sat 
for  some  time  quietly  chewing  his  cud,  but  soon 
changed  his  position,  and  began  to  exhibit  unmistaka- 
ble symptoms  of  uneasiness.     He  kept  hitching  up 


262  Nashville. 

his  trowsers,  moving  about  in  his  seat,  and  looked  the 
very  pictare  of  "Impatience  sitting  on  a  hemlock 
board  and  chewing  the  bitter  cud  of  discontent."  His 
eyes  wandered  from  one  person  to  another,  as  if  there 
were  something  on  his  mind — something  that  he 
wished  to  say.  My  sympathies  became  excited,  and 
I  was  about  to  address  him,  when  he  "  broke  the  ice," 
and  let  in  upon  ns  a  stream  of  volubility  almost  over- 
whelming. Being  the  nearest  to  him,  I  had  to  brave 
the  force  of  the  deluge ;  I  shuddered  at  each  succes- 
sive douche,  but  was  compelled  to  let  the  torrent  flow 
on,  without  making  any  effort  to  check  its  impetuo- 
sity, merely  endeavoring  to  divert  it  into  some  other 
channel. 

I  have  a  great  dislike  to  talking  in  the  cars,  w^hen 
they  are  in  motion,  as  the  effort  to  raise  my  voice 
above  the  din  and  noise  of  the  rattling  train  seriously 
affects  my  throat ;  but  there  was  no  way  of  dodging 
the  tongue-missiles  of  this  loquacious  individual.  If 
he  had  talked  without  requiring  an  answer,  I  would 
not  have  cared ;  but  he  opened  the  conversation,  as 
you  would  an  oyster,  by  the  introduction  of  the  inqui- 
sitorial knife.     Listen  to  him  for  a  moment : 


Cracker  Jargon.  263 

*' Wal,  stranger,  this  erc's  dusty  trav'ling!" 

*' Yes,"  I  replied. 

"  You  don't  live  in  these  ere  parts,  I  reckon  ?" 

*'  No !" 

"  Whar'  may  you  be  from  ?" 

"  Cuba." 

"  What!  that  are  island  of  Caby  !     How's  the  cot- 
ton crop  down  thar'  ?" 

"  I  believe  that  cotton  is  not  one  of  the  products  of 
that  island,"  I  replied. 

"  What !  not  raise  cotton  ?  Make  shingles  I  spose !" 

''  No,  I  think  not !" 

"  Lots  of  niggers  thar'  I  dare  say  !   and  plenty  of 
tobaccy  tew  !  How  many  niggers  dew  yew  own?'* 

"  I  am  not  the  owner  of  any." 

"  Wal !  that's  curious,  not  to  own  no  niggers  I  per- 
haps 3'ou  hires  'em,  dew  yew  ?" 

Being  anxious  to  change  the  conversation,  which 
was  becoming  almost  too  familiar,  I  did  not  heed  his 
last  remark,  but  inquired  what  business  he  was 
engaged  in.  Stretching  his  long,  ostrich-like  neck 
over  the  side  of  the  seat,  he  ejected  from  his  mouth 
a  superfluous  quantity  of  tobacco  juice  ;  then  leaning 


264  Nashville. 

over  towards  me,  in  a  sort  of  lialf-coD  Tiding  tone 
replied,  "  Wal !  Mister,  I'm  in  tlie  shingle  business, 
I  am.  Kow  there  is  lots  of  ways  of  gettin'  a  livin' 
in  this'ere  world;  some  folks  by  keepin'  niggers  and 
raisin'  cotton ;  some  by  sellin'  traps  and  swappin' 
bosses ;  some  by  lumberin'  and  farmin'.  Kow  you 
see  I've  had  a  smart  chance  at  most  of  these  busi- 
nesses, besides  tendin'  saw-mill  and  boatin',  but  this 
ere  shinole  business  beats  'em  all." 

"But,"  said  I,  "do  you  find  this  business  profit- 
able ?" 

"  Wal,  not  particularly  so,  but  I  kinder  manage  to 
get  enough  grub  for  the  old  woman  and  children,  and 
that's  about  all  we  orter  expect  in  this  ere  world." 

"  How  large  a  familj^  have  you?"  I  asked. 

"  Wal,  let's  see,  there's  the  old  woman  and  four  gals 
and  tew  bovs  to  home,  besides  Joe  and  Silas  who's 
away  down  the  'Hooche  a  lumberin'." 

How  much  longer  he  would  have  edified  me  with 
his  cracker  jargon  I  am  unable  to  say,  had  he  not,  on 
turning  his  head  to  expectorate,  caught  sight  of  an 
acquaintance  in  the  forward  part  of  the  car.  Making 
his  way  in  that  direction  he  grasped  the  man  by  the 


Arrival  at  Atlanta.  265 

band,  and  exclaimed  in  a  voice  loud  enough  to  be 
heard  by  all  around  him  : — 

"  How  do  yu  dew,  Square  ?  I'm  mitey  glad  tu  see 
yu ;  been  down  to  the  plantation  I  reckon  ?  Wal,  I 
de-clare  if  this  ere  aint  Molly  as  I  live  1  How  she's 
growed!  I  say,  Square,  this  ere's  a  smart  gall  of 
yourn,  and  looks  o?i- commonly  like  her  ma." 

He  continued  to  hold  forth  in  this  strain  until  he 
arrived  at  his  place  of  debarkation ;  when  throwing 
his  saddle-bags  over  his  shoulder,  and  shaking  his 
friend's  hand,  he  exclaimed  : 

"  Now,  Square,  when  yu  come  down  tu  our  district, 
come  rite  to  my  cabin,  plenty  of  hog  and  hominy, 
and  the  old  woman  will  be  mitey  glad  tu  see  yu." 

This  picture  is  drawn  from  life,  and  those  who  know 
the  orisrinal  will  acknowledo^e  the  correctness  of  the 
*  delineation. 

About  sunset  we  reached  Atlanta,  a  town  of  some 
importance  from  its  being  a  market  and  place  of 
transhipment  for  most  of  the  cotton  and  other  articles 
of  export,  raised  in  several  of  the  adjoining  counties. 
Two  or  three  railroads  intersect  there,  which  makes 
it  a  place  of  considerable  bustle  and  activity.     I  was 


266  Nashville. 

recommended  by  a  gentleman  on  the  cars  to  the 
*'  Trout  House,"  which  favorably  impressed  me  with 
its  appetizing  name.  It  proved  to  be  a  large  unpainteci 
brick  building,  four  stories  high,  and  of  not  very  pre- 
possessing exterior.  The  interior  was  cold,  cheerless, 
and  inhospitable,  and  I  began  to  think  that  its  name 
was  its  only  attraction.  The  porter  who  took  charge 
of  my  luggage  was  evidently  the  major-domo  of  the 
establishment,  for  he  was  the  only  person  visible 
while  I  was  engaged  in  registering  my  name  and 
selecting  a  room  for  the  night. 

Calling  for  a  glass  of  iced-water,  I  was  told  that 
there  was  none  in  the  house,  but  if  I  would  pay  for 
it,  they  would  send  oat  and  get  some  for  me.  I 
thought  this  was  rather  cool  treatment,  but  supposing 
it  to  be  one  of  the  customs  of  the  country,  I  gave  the 
porter  a  quarter,  and  in  about  an  hour  a  small  pitcher 
of  ice,  but  no  change,  was  brought  to  my  room  in 
the  fourth  story. 

This  world,  or  the  inhabitants  thereof,  are  said  to 
be  composed  of  two  antagonistic  classes — "  victims 
and  victimizers."  I  certainly  shall  be  at  no  loss  here- 
after to  decide  to  which  class   /  belong.      Bat,    as 


Rival  Waiters.  267 

Iludibras  says  there  is  as  "  great  pleasure  in  being 
cheated  as  to  cheat,"  I  shall  have  my  full  share  of 
this  world's  pleasures  and  beatitudes. 

When  I  came  down  to  tea,  the  table  was  nearly 
deserted ;  but  from  the  soiled  condition  of  the  cloth, 
and  the  refuse  eatables  scattered  around,  "I  judged  that 
quite  a  number  of  hungry  bipeds  had  preceded  me. 
When  seated,  a  full-blooded  African,  with  a  face  as 
black  as  the  ace  of  spades,  and  a  mouth  stretching 
from  ear  to  ear,  came  up  and  wanted  to  know  "  what 
massa  would  be  helped  to."  Before  I  could  reply, 
a  spruce-looking  mulatto,  who  evidently  imagined 
that  he  saw  a  shining  quarter  in  the  perspective, 
approached  me  and  bowing  very  obsequiously,  said, 
"  I  will  take  the  gentleman's  order !" 

"No,  you  doant,"  said  he  with  the  open  counte- 
nance, "  I'm  gwine  to  wait  on  de  gemman  myself," 
and  he  reached  out  his  hand  to  take  my  plate.  I 
ended  the  controversy  by  waving  off  the  interloper, 
and  directed  the  sable  individual  to  bring  me  a  plate 
of  dry  toast  with  a  cup  of  black  tea. 

"Yaw!  yaw!  dat  I  will,  massa!"  and  he  started 
for  the  kitchen  as  fast  as  his  lagging  heels  would 


268  Nashville. 

allow  him,  those  elongated  appendages  not  being  able 
to  keep  within  two  or  three  feet  of  his  advancing  head 
and  shoulders.  He  returned  in  a  few  moments  almost 
out  of  breath,  the  perspiration  standing  in  large  drops 
on  his  ebony  forehead,  from  his  efforts  to  toast  my 
bread  over  a  hot  coal-fire.     His  first  salutation  was  : 

"  Dat  are  free  nigger  'magines  I  don't  know  how 
to  wait  on  the  white  folks.  Him  feels  mitey  grand 
since  he  got  free  papers  !  But  I'll  let  him  know  dat 
he's  no  better  dan  me  no  how."  He  wiped  his  face 
with  his  coat-sleeve,  and  in  his  anxiety  to  please, 
placed  before  me  pepper,  mustard,  salt,  and  other  con- 
diments which  I  did  not  require,  and  neglected  to 
pass  the  butter,  and  the  necessary  ingredients  for  my 
tea.  When  I  asked  for  the  latter,  he  upset  the  sugar- 
bowl  in  his  haste  to  reach  it,  and  filled  my  cup  to 
overflowing  with  milk  before  I  could  prevent  it.  At 
last  I  was  obliged  to  send  him  to  the  kitchen  for 
something  I  did  not  want,  to  get  rid  of  his  well  mean- 
ing but  awkward  attempts  to  serve  me. 

On  examining  the  edibles  before  me,  I  found  that 
my  heedless  waiter  had  mistaken  my  order,  and 
instead  of  dry  toast  and  black  tea,  had  brought  me 


Chattanooga.  269 

black  toast  and  dry  tea,  for  the  one  was  black  as 
Sambo  himself,  and  the  other  tasted  more  like  a  decoc- 
tion of  dried  herbs  than  of  savory  oolong.  But  find- 
ing a  plate  of  stale  bread  within  my  reach,  I  made 
a  hasty  though  not  luxurious  meal — being  desirous 
to  get  away  from  the  table  before  the  return  of  my 
officious  waiter. 

Not  finding  any  late  papers  in  the  hotel,  or  any- 
thing to  interest  me  within  doors,  I  strolled  through 
some  of  the  principal  streets  in  the  vicinity  ;  observed 
nothing  worthy  of  note,  but  enough,  however,  to  con- 
vince me  that  Atlanta  was  the  most  unattractive  place 
that  I  had  seen  since  leaving  Cuba.  About  nine 
o'clock  ''  a  solitary  wayfarer" — to  use  the  language  of 
a  popular  novelist,  "  might  have  been  seen  wending 
his  weary  way"  up  three  flights  of  stairs  to  his  quiet 
room  in  the  *'  upper  regions."  Here  he  remained  in 
close  communion  with  Morpheus  until  the  first  train 
left  in  the  morning,  when  he  took  his  departure,  hav- 
ing acquired,  during  his  brief  sojourn,  a  little  more 
knowledge  of  Southern  manners  and  customs. 

My  next  stopping-place  was  Chattanooga,  a  small 
inland  town  within  the  limits  of  Tennessee,  where  I 


2/0  Nashville. 

remained  one  night  and  the  greater  part  of  a  day ; 
from  necessity,  however,  not  from  choice,  as  the  cars 
were  detained  there  that  length  of  time.  The  pas- 
sengers were  quite  indignant  at  the  apparently  unne- 
cessary delay.  It  was  intimated  that  the  railroad  com- 
pany had  a  pecuniary  interest  in  the  badly-kept  hotel 
at  the  station  ;  otherwise  a  score  or  two  of  impatient 
travellers  would  not  be  so  often  delayed  there,  and 
subjected  to  such  poor  fare  and  indifferent  accommo- 
dations. I  would  rather  have  spent  the  night  on  a 
rail  than  in  a  seven-by-nine  room,  on  a  bed  of  straw, 
between  sheets  not  as  immaculate  as  the  driven  snow. 
But  I  passed  the  ordeal  unscathed,  and  reached  this 
city  in  safet}^  While  at  Chattanooga,  I  was  obliged 
to  remain  in  the  hotel  most  of  the  time,  on  account 
of  a  severe  rain  storm,  and  as  there  were  no  books  or 
papers  accessible,  I  amused  myself  with  watching  the 
crowd  of  "  natives"  who  thronged  the  bar-room,  and 
in  listening  to  their  ludicrous  provincialisms.  They 
would  come  in  wet  as  drowned  rats,  but  immediately 
complain  of  being  dry^  and  forthwith  proceed  to 
"  imbibe."  The  smiling  proprietor  stood  behind  the 
counter  in  his  shirt  sleeves,  engaged  in  preparing  a 


Description  of  the 'City.  271 

suspicious  combination  of  fluid  commodities  with 
"mint  fixings,"  and  dispensing  it  with  alacrity  to  the 
thirsty  crowd  who  were  impatiently  awaiting  their 
turn  at  "  the  straw,"  which  they  sucked  with  apparent 
relish.  It  has  been  said  that  "  straws  show  which 
w^ay  the  wind  blows,"  but  in  this  instance  they  plainly 
indicated  the  loay  the  streams  flowed.     *     -^     * 

Nashville,  the  capital  of  Tennessee,  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  Cumberland  Eiver,  and  has  a  popula- 
tion of  about  twenty-five  thousand.  This  stream 
rises  in  the  south-eastern  part  of  Kentucky,  and  after 
making  a  bend  into  this  State,  and  pursuing  its  ellipti- 
cal course  for  nearly  two  hundred  miles,  it  runs  north, 
into  western  Kentucky,  and  empties  into  the  Ohio 
Eiver,  a  short  distance  from  its  confluence  with  "  the 
Father  of  Waters."  The  chief  attraction  of  this  city 
is  its  picturesque  and  commanding  situation,  and  the 
beauty  and  diversity  of  the  surrounding  scenery.  It 
is  mostly  built  upon  a  solid  rock  a  hundred  feet  or 
more  above  the  bed  of  the  river,  and,  on  account  of 
its  elevated  and  healthful  location,  has  become  a  popu- 
lar resort  during  the  summer,  for  families  living  in 
the  low  and  less  salubrious  places  in  the  vicinity. 


272  Nashville. 

Nashville  contains  many  fine  private  residences, 
but  the  "lion"  of  the  city,  as  well  as  of  the  state,  is 
the  elegant  capitol  now  in  process  of  erection.  It  is 
built  of  Tennessee  marble,  a  species  of  limestone 
susceptible  of  a  beautiful  polish,  which  was  found  in 
that  vicinit}^  The  expense  of  this  structure,  when 
completed,  will  be  not  far  from  one  million  of  dollars, 
notwithstandino;  the  first  cost  of  the  stone  was  but 
nominal,  and  it  was  quarried  and  worked  by  convicts 
from  the  State  Prison.  It  stands  upon  the  highest 
eminence  in  the  city,  nearly  two  hundred  feet  above 
the  river,  and  is  a  conspicuous  mark  for  the  eye  for 
leagues  around.  This  edifice  was  designed  by  a 
Philadelphia  architect  named  Strickland,  who  died 
about  two  years  ago,  and  by  a  special  permit  his 
remains  were  entombed  in  a  vault  beneath  the  build- 
ing. His  son,  also  an  architect,  is  now  engaged  in 
completing  the  work.  In  one  of  the  pleasantest 
streets  of  the  city  is  the  mansion  of  the  late  President 
Polk,  where  his  widow  now  resides.  On  the  lawn  in 
front  of  the  house  is  a  monument  erected  by  Mrs. 
Polk  to  the  memory  of  her  statesman-husband,  con- 
taining a  simple  and  appropriate  inscription. 


Southern  Hospitality.  273 

This  city  is  celebrated  for  its  beautiful  women,  but 
as  I  only  had  an  opportunity  to  see  them  in  church 
and  in  their  carriages,  at  a  distance,  I  cannot  speak 
intelligently  on  the  subject ;  for  distance  is  supposed 
to  "  lend  enchantment"  to  animate  as  well  as  inani- 
mate objects.  I  was  much  pleased  with  the  bright 
happy  faces  of  a  cavalcade  of  school-girls,  who  passed 
me  one  day  in  the  outskirts  of  the  city.  They  were 
all  quite  pretty,  becomingly  attired,  and  rode  with 
ease  and  elegance. 

The  countr}^,  for  leagues  around  Nashville,  is  pictur- 
esque and  beautiful,  pleasantly  diversified  with  hill 
and  dale,  with  cultivated  fields,  green  pastures,  and 
belts  of  woodland.  It  is  an  opulent  district,  highly 
cultivated,  and  abounding  in  extensive  plantations, 
with  fine  old  mansions,  where  the  wealth}^  planters 
live  more  like  noblemen  than  simple  farmers. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  South,  particularly  the 
planters  of  affluence,  are  celebrated  for  their  hospi- 
tality and  courtesy  to  strangers.  It  is  a  part  of  their 
religion  "to  take  in  strangers,"  and  entertain  them 
at  their  homes  and  firesides.  Any  one  having  just 
claims    to   respectability   is   cordially   welcomed   by 


12 


274 


Nashville. 


them,  and  horses,  carriages,  and  servants  are  placed  at 
his  command.  He  is  invited  to  join  in  all  the  social 
gatherings  in  the  neighborhood,  and  is  expected  to 
make  himself  at  home  in  every  sense  t>f  the  word. 
This  is  a  charming  feature  of  Southern  society,  and 
an  agreeable  contrast  to  the  ungenial  and  indifferent 
manner  with  which  strangers  are  often  treated  at  the 
North.  It  is  true,  that  strangers,  with  us,  are  "  taken 
in,"  but  not  always  in  the  scriptural  sense ;  neither 
are  they  often  the  recipients  of  that  genuine,  unselfish 
hospitality  which  is  so  universal  among  the  planters 
and  wealthy  citizens  of  the  South.  I  speak  some- 
what from  experience,  having  in  several  instances, 
during  my  southern  travels,  received  civilities  and 
personal  attentions  such  as  would  not  have  been 
bestowed  on  a  stranger  at  the  North.     *     *     * 


LETTER    XYIII. 

"Mammoth  Gate  Hotel,"*  Ky.,  May^  1856. 

The  long  cherished  desire  of  mj  life  is  realized. 
I  have  seen  the  Mammoth  Cave,  the  eighth  wonder  of 
the  world,  and  by  many  considered  more  wonderful 
than  all  the  others  combined.  I  have  traversed  its  ma- 
jestic avenues,  threaded  its  tortuous  paths,  climbed  its 
precipitous  heights,  peered  into  its  Tartarean  depths, 
navigated  its  Stygian  waters,  drunk  from  its  Crystal 
fountains,  ascended  its  Rocky  Mountains,  and  gazed 
on  its  varied  scenes  with  conflicting  emotions.  I  was 
awed  by  its  grandeur,  charmed  by  its  sublimity,  fasci- 
nated by  its  beauty,  and  astonished  at  its  immensity. 

*  Some  portions  of  the  following  letter  were  published  in  a  news- 
paper at  the  time  when  it  was  written.  In  its  revised  and  enlarged 
form,  as  here  presented,  the  author  hopes  that  he  has  succeeded  in 
depicting  the  most  striking  features  of  the  Mammoth  Cave. 


2/6  Mammoth  Cave. 

But  to  particulars.  I  left  ISTasliville  in  company 
with  a  JVIr.  L.,  from  New  York,  an  elderly  gentleman 
of  wealth  and  education,  whose  acquaintance  I  made 
in  Havana.  We  reached  "  Bell's  Tavern"  the  next 
night,  by  stage.  This  lias  been  "  a  place  of  enter- 
tainment for  man  and  beast"  for  more  than  fifty 
years,  and  is  intimately  associated  with  the  Mammoth 
Cave,  beimy  but  about  eioht  miles  distant  from  it. 
Having  partaken  of  an  early  breakfast  the  next 
mornino^,  we  started  for  the  cave  in  an  old-fashioned 
Kentucky  ''' carry -all  "•  without  springs,  and  after 
riding  for  two  hours  over  the  worst  road  imaginable, 
reached  our  place  of  destination,  pretty  effectually 
shaken  up.  We  were  the  only  passengers  for  the 
cave,  it  being  too  early  in  the  season  for  a  great 
influx  of  visitors. 

The  "  Cave  Hotel"  is  a  large,  irregular,  rambling 
sort  of  building,  somewhat  out  of  repair,  and  not 
particularl}^  attractive  in  its  appearance,  but  workmen 
are  engaged  in  rejuvenating  it  for  the  coming  season, 
when  it  will  appear  in  its  new  annual  suit  of  paint 
and  garniture.  The  proprietor  being  absent  when  we 
arrived,  we  were  obliged  to  wait  his  return  before  we 


Its  Vast  Magnitude.  277 

could  obtain  rooms,  and  in  the  interval  made  the 
acquaintance  of  a  young  Scotchman  named  Frazer, 
who  had  arrived  a  few  hours  before  us,  and  was  wait- 
ing for  an  opportunity  to  join  some  party  going  into 
the  cave.  We  found  him  an  agreeable,  well  informed 
young  man,  and  apparently  familiar  with  most  of 
the  great  natural  curiosities  of  Europe.  He  had  come 
to  this  country  to  see  some  of  our  celebrities,  more 
•especially  to  visit  the  Mammoth  Cave,  whose  fame, 
it  appears,  is  even  greater  in  the  Old  World  than  in 
the  New. 

I  am  informed  that  the  original  owner  of  the  cave, 
or  rather  of  a  few  acres  surrounding  the  entrance, 
went  abroad  without  having  explored  it.  While  in 
Europe,  so  much  interest  was  manifested  in  this 
wonderful  natural  curiosity,  and  he  heard  such  extra- 
vagant accounts  from  persons  who  had  visited  it,  that 
immediately  on  his  return  he  purchased  seventeen 
hundred  acres  more,  supposing  that  it  would  cover 
the  whole  extent  of  the  cave.  But  from  recent 
explorations,  it  is  evident  that  it  extends  under  many 
of  the  farms  in  the  vicinity,  whose  owners  may  not 
be  aware  that  the  Nobility  of  Europe,  as  well  as  the 


278  Mammoth  Cave. 

nohh  men  of  America,  have  traversed  their  domains 
"  without  leave  or  license." 

This  cave  is  said  to  contain  ''two  hundred  and 
twenty-six  avenues,  forty-seven  domes,  eight  cataracts, 
twenty- three  pits,  besides  numerous  rivers ;"  the 
aggregate  length  of  all  the  different  avenues,  both 
direct  and  lateral,  is  estimated  at  three  hundred  miles. 
It  is,  in  fact,  a  small  subterranean  state  of  itself,  which 
might  almost  claim  to  be  admitted  separately  into  the 
Union,  if  it  had  any  population  save  "rats,  bats,  and 
eyeless  fish,"  to  legislate  and  enjoy  the  rights  of  suf- 
frage. I  am  not  sure,  however,  but  it  can  take  care 
of  itself,  having  done  so  from  time  immemorial, 
which  is  more  than  all  states  can  say !  And  I  think 
I  can  show  that  the  legislative,  executive,  and  judi- 
ciary departments  of  this  embryo  state  can  be  filled 
from  among  its  own  population.  What  is  more  neces- 
sary to  successful  legislation,  than  age,  experience,  wis- 
dom, and  sagacity  ?  'As  old  as  a  rat,"  showing  that 
they  have  age ;  "  As  wise  as  a  rat,"  proving  that  they 
possess  wisdom ;  and  "  as  cunning  as  a  rat,"  evincing 
their  sagacity ;  are  expressions  familiar  to  us  all. 
And  how  can   the  jadiciary   department  be  better 


Its  Natural  History.  279 

filled  than  by  eyeless  fisli  ?  Slippery  and  supple  in 
their  natures,  they  can  wriggle  themselves  deeper  into 
the  intricate  interstices  of  the  law  than  most  of  its 
modern  disciples ;  and  such  is  their  affinity  for  shiners 
that  they  can  decoy  them  from  their  clients'  pockets 
od  libiium,  which  is  one  of  the  most  important  requi- 
sites in  law,  according  to  the  popular  interpretation 
of  Blackstone.  And  besides,  being  blindj  they  are 
emineutly  qualified  to  administer  justice  with  impar- 
tiality. As  for  the  bats,  their  usefulness  is  manifold. 
They  also  will  make  successful  lawyers.  Being  pro- 
tean in  their  forms,  they  can  change  to  suit  the  exi- 
gencies of  the-  occasion,  or  whenever  their  interests 
demand  it ;  and  if  necessary,  can  act  as  counsel  to  both 
parties  in  a  suit,  being  bird  to  one,  and  animal  to  the 
other.  Then  again,  they  will  make  invaluable  sol- 
diers, forming  in  themselves  a  hat-terj  that  can  never 
be  silenced ;  and  when  defending  a  fortification,  will 
not  leave  the  walls  during  daylight,  and  will  be 
occupied  the  entire  night  in  flying  from  place  to 
place,  aiding  and  encouraging  one  another.  Now  I 
hope  that  our  "  Uncle  Samuel"  will  give  that  little 
"  bone  of  contention,"  Kansas,  a  toss  over  the  Rocky 


28o  Mammoth  Cave. 

Mountains,  and  take  into  liis  family  this  underground 
territory  with  its  interesting  population,  and  I  will 
wager  a  leaden  ducat  that  the  whole  confederacy  will 
be  improved  by  the  annexation.  But  a  truce  to  this 
nonsense. 

After  having  secured  rooms,  our  first  inquiry  was 
for.  Stephen  the  celebrated  guide,  who  is  so  closely 
identified  with  the  cave  and  its  associations,  having 
been  employed  in  that  capacity  for  nineteen  years. 
He  was  the  first  to  explore  many  of  its  interminable 
labyrinths,  and  to  open  to  the  world  its  unrevealed 
wonders.  'We  were  disappointed  to  find  that  he  had 
gone  into  the  cave  with  a  party  early  that  morning, 
and  would  not  be  back  until  night.  Stephen  is  almost 
as  much  of  a  celebrity  as  the  cave  itself,  and  I  had 
set  my  heart  on  having  him  for  our  guide ;  for  with- 
out his  agreeable  companionship,  the  cave  to  one 
would  be  divested  of  many  of  its  attractions.  But 
Mat,  the  next  best  guide,  was  not  engaged,  and  we 
secured  his  services.  About  an  hour  was  occupied 
in  preparing  lamps,  changing  our  dresses,  and  other 
preliminaries.  When  completed,  our  party,  consist- 
ing of  three  persons  besides  the  guide,  left  the  house. 


Equipments  for  the  Journey.  281 

and  after  going  down  a.  winding  path  for  about  two 
hundred  jards,  reached  the  mouth  of  the  cave.  We 
were  quite  fantastically  dressed,  in  "  monkey  jackets" 
of  green  and  yellow  flannel,  trowsers  of  the  same 
material,  stuffed  caps,  heavy  boots,  a  Mont  Blanc  staff 
(a  long  stick  sharpened  at  the  end),  and  each  of  us 
carrying  a  swinging  lamp,  so  constructed  that  it  could 
not  be  broken  or  easily  extinguished.  Mat  carried 
two  lamps,  a  canteen  of  oil  slung  on  his  shoulder, 
a  basket  containing  our  dinner,  and  a  long  black 
bottle,  contents  unknown,  but  not  unsuspected.  His 
pockets  were  filled  with  matches,  Bengal  lights,  medi- 
cated paper,  and  other  indispensable  articles. 

After  descending  a  flight  of  rudely  constructed 
stone  steps  for  about  thirty  feet,  we  found  ourselves 
within  the  mouth  of  the  cave.  Branches  of  trees, 
roots,  and  creeping  vines  overhung  the  entrance, 
imparting  to  it  a  wild  and  peculiarly  picturesque 
appearance.  A  current  of  cold  air  greeted  us  as  we 
entered,  but,  after  advancing  a  few  rods,  we  were 
sufficiently  warm.  The  temperature  of  this  cave  is 
uniform  throughout,  never  varying  more  than  one 

degree  from  fifty-nine  Fahrenheit,  during  summer  or 

12* 


282  Mammoth  Cave. 

winter.  The  air  is  also  remarkably  pure,  and  so  very 
bracing,  that  a  person  in  ordinary  health  can  walk 
a  long  distance  without  fatigue.  Combustion  is  per- 
fect in  all  parts  of  the  cave,  even  in  the  deepest  pits 
and  most  confined  places ;  and  it  is  said  that  nothing 
has  ever  been  found  here  in  a  decomposed  state. 
Some  affirm  that  decomposition  cannot  take  place 
where  the  temperature  is  unvarying,  and  the  air  free 
from  humidity. 

In  support  of  this  theory,  it  is  related  that  Mr. 
Croghan,  the  owner  of  the  cave,  when  exploring  a 
new  avenue  a  few  years  ago,  discovered  a  young 
child  lying  on  the  ground  apparently  asleep.  It  was 
cold  to  the  touch,  yet  he  could  hardly  believe  that 
life  was  extinct,  so  blooming  were  its  cheeks,  and  so 
life-like  the  expression  of  its  countenance.  He  had  it 
removed  to  the  hotel,  and  made  every  effort  to  dis- 
cover its  paternity,  supposing  that  it  belonged  to  some 
poor  family  in  the  vicinity.  But  imagine  his  asto- 
nishment,  when  visiting  the  body  the  next  morning, 
to  find  nothing  left  but  ashes.  It  had  probably  been 
entombed  for  years.     *     *     *     * 

Our  guide  having  lighted  the  lamps  and  distributed 


Scene  in  the  Rotunda.  283 

tliem  among  our  party,  we  followed  him  through 
"  The  Narrows"  down  a  gradual  descent,  and  in  a  few 
moments  emerged  into  the  vestibule  or  antechamber 
of  the  cave.  Most  of  the  places  of  interest  here  are 
named  from  some  incident  in  their  history,  or  from 
the  object  or  place  to  which  they  bear  a  real  or  ima- 
ginary resemblance.  This  is  called  the  Rotunda,  and 
is  said  to  be  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet  below  the 
surface  of  the  earth,  and  nearly  under  the  hotel. 

Here  our  guide  disappeared  with  the  lamps,  and 
we  were  plunged  suddenly  into  darkness.  The  tran- 
sition was  so  great,  that  it  seemed  as  if  all  the  sable 
elements  were  mixed  together  and  intensified.  It  was 
horribly,  awfully  dark. 

"  As  dark  as  was  chaos,  ere  the  infant  sun 
"Was  rolled  together,  or  bad  tried  his  beams 
Athwart  the  gloom  profound." 

Soon  a  soft  mellow  light  was  reflected  in  the  distance, 
which  radiated  and  diffused  itself  over  the  huge  grey 
walls  above  and  around  us.  It  was  a  scenic  display, 
for  which  we  were  indebted  to  our  guide  and  a  Bengal 
light.     We  were  in  a  room  nearly  two  hundred  feet 


284  Mammoth  Cave. 

in  diameter  and  about  sixty  feet  high ;  the  roof  of 
wliich  is  flat,  and  composed  of  a  single  rock,  without 
any  discernible  seam  or  interruption,  save  at  the 
edges.  The  whole  is  without  a  pillar  or  support  of 
any  kind — a  wonderful  triumph  of  the  Mighty  Archi- 
tect  and  Builder. 

Here  are  to  be  seen  the  remains  of  vats  and  furna- 
ces used  in  the  manufacture  of  saltpetre,  which  nearly 
half  a  century  ago  was  taken  from  this  cave  in  large 
quantities.  Heaps  of  nitrous  earth  and  ashes  are 
scattered  about,  and  the  impression  of  wheels  and  the 
track  of  oxen  are  as  distinctly  visible  as  if  made  but 
a  few  days  since. 

After  passing  the  Great  Bend,  where  the  avenue 
makes  almost  an  acute  angle,  we  came  to  a  place 
designated  as  "  The  Sick  Chamber."  Here  are  to  be 
seen  two  or  three  dilapidated  stone  huts,  which  were 
erected  several  years  ago  as  a  kind  of  hospital  for 
consumptives.  The  pure  air  of  the  cave,  and  its 
exemption  from  atmospheric  changes,  suggested  the 
idea  of  its  becoming  a  hibernating  place  for  pulmonic 
invalids,  and  several  were  induced  to  try  the  experi- 
ment.     But  the  eternal  darkness  and  gloom,  together 


The  Grand  Gallery.  285 

with  the  absence  of  enhveuing  society  and  other 
healthful  influences,  jjrevented  a  cure  being  eifected. 
The  last  patient  having  persevered  for  more  than  a 
year  without  any  apparent  benefit,  during  vrhich  time 
two  or  three  of  his  companions  died,  the  scheme  was 
abandoned,  and  the  huts  have  remained  ever  since 
untenanted. 

Two  passages  diverge  from  this  mammoth  chamber. 
One  is  called  the  Great  Bat  Eoom,  from  the  quantities 
of  bats  to  be  seen  upon  its  walls  and  ceiling — looking 
from  below  like  black  incrustations,  so  closely  are 
they  packed  together.  The  other  is  known  as  the 
Grand  Gallery ;  it  is  five  miles  long,  from  fifty  to  one 
hundred  feet  wide,  averages  about  fifty  feet  in  height, 
and  is  said  to  be  the  most  extensive  subterranean 
avenue  in  the  known  world.  The  next  place  of  inte- 
rest is  the  Church,  an  immense  room,  sixty  feet  high, 
over  one  hundred  feet  in  diameter,  and  capable  of 
accommodating  a  congregation  of  several  thousand. 
A  large  rock  projects  on  one  side,  forming  an  imposing 
pulpit,  while  in  the  rear  is  a  niche  of  sufiicient  capa- 
city to  hold  an  organ  and  a  respectable-sized  choir. 
Divine  service  has  been  held  here  a  number  of  times 


286  Mammoth  Cave.' 

to  large  audiences.  The  shape  and  formation  of  this 
underground  sanctuary  are  said  to  be  in  accordance 
with  acoustic  principles,  and  a  voice  of  ordinary  capa- 
city will  fill  the  room  and  be  heard  distinctly  in  the 
remotest  part.  Here  our  guide  ignited  a  piece  of  medi- 
cated paper,  which  diffused  a  soft,  mellow  effulgence 
— a  sort  of  "dim,  religious  light"  over  the  room, 
adding  to  its  solemnity,  and  leaving  our  minds 
more  deeply  impressed  with  its  holy  beauty  and 
Sublimity. 

In  contradistinction,  a  few  hundred  yards  distant  is 
the  Ball  Room,  so  called  from  its  adaptation  to  the 
Terpsichorean  art,  and  where  the  "  poetry  of  motion" 
can  be  perpetrated  without  annoyance  to  the  "  upper  ten 
thousand,"  who  repudiate  that  species  of  amusement. 
It  is  nearly  two  hundred  feet  in  diameter,  and  of  cor- 
responding height.  A  large  natural  orchestra  pro- 
jects at  one  end,  capable  of  holding  one  hundred 
musicians ;  and  the  back  recedes,  forming  a  sightly 
gallery  for  spectators. 

Not  very  far  from  this  room  is  a  large  isolated  rock 
standing  upon  the  ground,  called  the  Giant's  Cof&n, 
from  its  resemblance  to  the  last  tenement  ol  humanity. 


The  Labyrinth.  287 

It  is  fifty-seven  feet  long,  and  in  every  way  shaped 
like  a  coffin.  Directly  above  it 'on  the  ceiling  is  a 
black  incrustation  of  gypsum  resembling  an  ant-eater 
on  a  log,  which  the  superstitious  consider  as  ominous. 
Back  of  this  is  a  hole  in  the  wall  leading  to  a  low 
room  about  one  hundred  feet  square,  called  the 
Wooden  Bowl,  from  its  fancied  resemblance  in  shape 
to  that  article  of  domestic  utility. 

We  now  go  down  "the  Steeps  of  Time,"  by  a 
rapid  descent  of  about  fifty  feet,  to  the  Deserted 
Chambers,  a  succession  of  gloomy-looking  apartments, 
which  are  correctly  named.  The  ground  about  here 
is  full  of  fearful-looking  chasms  and  pits,  of  which 
we  are  constantly  warned  by  our  guide.  Near  one 
of  the  largest  of  these  openings,  which  is  fearfully 
deep,  is  constantly  heard  the  sound  of  an  invisible 
waterfall. 

We  descended  by  a  long  ladder  into  the  Labyrinth, 
so  called  on  account  of  its  numerous  intricate  pas- 
sages and  bewDdering  mazes,  which  we  threaded  in 
safety,  although  not  without  slightly  endangering  our 
vision,  having  to  look  to  "  the  right  and  left  oblique," 
as  it  were,  simultaneously.     Some  of  these  passages 


288  Mammoth  Cave. 

were  so  irregular  and  complex  in  their  structure  that 
it  would  require  an  able  mathematician  to  elucidate 
them.  Its  continuity  of  obtuse,  acute,  and  right 
angles ;  its  crooked,  curved,  mixed,  concave,  and  con- 
vex lines,  would  puzzle  a  student  in  geometry,  and 
convince  him  that  there  are  more  things  helow  the 
earth  "  than  are  dreamt  of  in  his  philosophy." 

The  next  place  of  interest  is  Groran's  Dome,   by 
many  considered  the  greatest  curiosity  in  the  cave. 
Our  guide  led  ns  to  an  opening  in  the  wall  of  two  or 
three  feet  in  diameter,  and  then  disappeared  with  our 
lamps.     Soon  a  faint  straggling  light  appeared  from 
within  this  opening,   which  rapidly  increased   until 
the  whole  interior  was  illuminated.     We  each  in  our 
turn  looked  within.     A  huge  yawning  chasm  was 
above  and  below,  so  high  that  the  top  was  scarcely 
visible,  so  deep  that  the  eye  could  not  fathom  it.     The 
height  and  depth  are  estimated  at  three  hundred  feet, 
and  the  opening  where  we  stood  was  about  midway 
between  the  top  and  bottom.     It  is  not  the  magnitude 
alone  of  this  vast  cavernous  Temple,  which  constitutes 
its  chief  attraction ;  its  peculiar  formation,  its  archi- 
tectural completeness,  and  the  uniqueness  of  its  inte- 


The  Bottomless  Pit.  289 

rior  decorations,  are  wonderful,  and  cannot  be  correctly 
described  or  delineated.  The  inner  walls  are  honey- 
combed and  covered  with  a  creamy  white  incrustation. 
The  dome  above  is  conical  in  shape,  and  looks  not 
unlike  an  immense  canopy  lined  with  richly  embossed 
velvet  (a  beautiful  specimen  of  N'ature's  handiwork) 
which  descends  in  voluminous  folds — draping  the 
whole  interior. 

We  retrace  our  steps  to  the  Labyrinth,  and  con- 
tinue to  go  down,  down,  down,  until  we  stand  upon 
the  very  brink  of  the  Bottomless  Pit — a  frightful- 
looking  abyss,  of  incredible  depth.  A  sheet  of  medi- 
cated paper  is  lighted  and  thrown  down,  which  is 
lost  to  sight  long  before  it  is  extinguished ;  the  sul- 
phurous fumes,  as  they  ascend,  are  strongly  suggestive 
of — you  know  what ! 

This  is  two  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  cave,  and 
was  once  supposed  to  be  the  end  of  all  cavities  in  that 
direction.  But  a  gentleman,  a  few  years  ago,  con- 
ceived the  idea  that  there  were  other  openings  beyond. 
With  the  aid  of  the  adventurous  Stephen,  he  threw 
a  ladder  over  the  chasm,  some  twenty  feet,  and  a  new 
field    was    opened   for   exploration.      A   substantial 


290  Mammoth  Cave. 

bridge  is  now  erected  here,  whicli  is  crossed  in  perfect 
safety. 

A  short  walk  brings  us  to  an  opening  in  the  ground^ 
large  enough  to  admit  one  person  at  a  time,  over 
which  is  suspended  an  immense  rock  of  several  tons 
weight,  resting  on  a  corner,  looking  as  if  the  least  jar 
would  cause  it  to  descend  and  close  the  entrance  for 
ever.  This  is  called  the  Scotchman's  Trap,  and  is  so 
fearful  a  place  that  many  visitors,  rather  than  enter 
it,  will  forego  the  pleasure  of  viewing  the  wonders 
which  lie  beyond-  We  go  down,  and  soon  find  our- 
selves in  the  midst  of  huge  rocks,  over  which  we 
climb,  long  ladders  which  we  descend,  and  narrow 
places  which  we  squeeze  through,  until  we  come  to 
the  far-famed  "  Winding  Way,"  or  Fat  Man's  Misery, 
as  it  is  facetiously  termed,  being  a  zigzag  path  about 
seven  feet  high,  and  averaging  but  eighteen  inches  in 
width,  for  a  distance  of  three  hundred  and  fifteen  feet 
through  a  solid  rock.  This  passage  was  undoubtedly 
formed  by  the  gradual  attrition  of  water,  as  its  sides 
are  as  smooth  and  lustrous  as  a  water-worn  pebble. 

This  wonderful  freak  of  Nature  is  a  source  of  great 
merriment  to  the  visitors,  especially  if  there  happen 


Fat  Man's  Misery.  291 

to  be  any  Fahiaffs  among  them,  for  it  is  next  to 
impossible  for  a  very  fleshy  person  to  get  through ; 
and  several,  who,  with  more  curiosity  than  discretion, 
made  the  attempt,  were  with  difficulty  extricated. 
Some,  who  succeed  in  forcing  their  way  through, 
cannot  be  induced  to  break  their  fast  while  on  the 
other  side,  lest  their  increased  diameter  should  prevent 

their  safe  return.     My  friend  Mr.  L ,  being  a 

small  man,  glided  through  this  tortuous  channel  like 
an  eel ;  while  the  great  "  broth  of  a  boy"  from  Edin- 
burgh, being  full  six  feet  in  his  stockings,  and  of  goodly 
proportions,  "puffed  and  bio  wed  like  a  fresh- water 
porpoise,"  and  by  the  time  he  reached  a  breathing- 
place  had  become  longitudinally  more^  and  latitudi- 
nally  less  by  the  severe  lateral  pressure.  Being  nei- 
ther great  nor  small,  I  was  fortunate  enough  to  reach 
the  end ;  but  not  without  sundry  squeezes  and  divers 
affectionate  embraces  from  the  cold  unyielding  walls 
which  encompassed  me.  But  the  end  was  not  yet. 
We  had  another  ordeal  to  pass  through,  which  to  me 
was  much  more  disagreeable.  It  was  the  Valley  of 
Humility — a  kind  of  prospective  Purgatory,  where 
the  ceiling  was  less  than  four  feet  from  the  ground. 


2Q2  Mammoth  Cave. 

Here  we  were  obliged  to  grovel  in  the  clust,  or  to 
walk  with  horizontal  spines,  with  head  and  back  in 
constant  danger  of  collision  with  the  rough  rock 
above.  Oh,  how  I  longed  to  "  take  off  my  head  and 
carry  it  under  my  arm,"  like  some  of  the  personages 
who  figure  in  ghost  stories.  It  was  labor  to  the 
head  as  well  as  to  the  back-bone,  and  we  all  uttered 
spontaneous  exclamations  of  dehght  when  we  reached 

Belief  Hall. 

The  next  place  of  interest  is  the  Bacon  Chamber, 
where  the  low  ceiling  is  covered  with  white  oblong 
stalactites,  being  a  very  good  imitation  of  hams  ready 
lagged  and  lohitewashed ;  and  a  cavity  is  shown  in  the 
centre,  as  "■  a  kettle  to  boil  them  in."  A  httle  further 
on  is  Biver  Hall,  where  the  river  has  been  known  to 
rise  fifty-seven  feet  above  low  water.  We  descended 
gradually  for  a  long  distance ;  the  soil,  a  tenacious 
clay,'  is  moist  and  slippery,  the  effects  of  a  recent 
inundation.  At  the  foot  of  this  hill  is  a  yawning 
abyss,  known  as  the  Dead  Sea,  the  waters  of  which 
are  said  to  be  twenty-five  feet  deep  at  the  lowest  tide. 
A  lighted  paper  is  thrown  down  upon  a  broad,  black 
body  of  water,  eighty  feet  below — a  shuddering,  fear- 


Dinner  and  its  Accompaniments.       293 

fal  place  to  look  into — its  Tartarean  depths,  its  name, 
and  the  associations  connected  with  it,  all  combining  to 
impress  us  with  sensations  not  easily  to  be  shaken  off. 
Far  below  us  in  the  darkness  and  gloom  is  the  river 
Styx.  A  rock  is  hurled  into  the  Erehean  space — a 
low,  gurgling  sound  is  heard — then  all  is  still,  and  a 
death-like  silence  prevails.  We  prepared  to  descend, 
but  our  aged  friend,  through  fear  or  fatigue,  declined 
going  any  further,  and  as  we  could  not  leave  him 
behind,  we  were  obliged  to  return.  I  was  not  sorry 
that  it  so  happened,  for  I  was  particularly  desirous  of 
having  Stephen  the  Charon  to  ferry  us  over  the  Styx, 
and  to  hear  the  tones  of  his  rich  barytone  voice, 
while  passing  the  Echo  River,  on  our  voyage  down 
the  Lethe.  We  decided  to  return  by  the  way  of  the 
Grothic  Avenue,  and  to  explore  that  portion  of  the 
cave,  which  would  about  use  up  the  day.  It  was 
now  past  meridian,  and  having  breakfasted  at  an 
unusually  early  hour,  our  stomachs  began  to  remon- 
strate against  so  long  a  fast.  We  therefore  got  up  an 
impromptu  meeting,  and  "  resolved  unanimously" 
that  it  was  time  for  dinner.  Our  guide  spread  a  col- 
lation upon  a  rock,  around  which  we  assembled.     The 


294  Mammoth  Cave. 

basket  containing  the  mysterious  bottle,  with  its  nose 
provokinglj  in  sight,  as  if  to  tempt  us  to  a  more 
intimate  acquaintance,  was  placed  a  little  distance 
from  us,  but  the  cold  chicken  was  equally  as  tempting 
and  much  more  available,  being  luithin  reach.  The 
three  miles  of  locomotion,  the  acrobatic  feats  I  had 
involuntarily  performed,  besides  occasionally  prac- 
tising in  "  ground  and  lofty  tumhling^''''  had  given  me 
some  symptoms  of  fatigue,  as  well  as  an  appetite  ;  so 
I  concluded  first  to  trv  the  chicken  and  its  accom- 
paniments,  and  if  they  failed  to  sustain  me,  then  I 
would  employ  Mat  as  a  "  medium"  to  exorcise  the 
spirits  from  the  depths  of  that  long,  black,  sepulchral- 
looking  bottle. 

Dinner  being  over,  the  fragments  gathered  toge- 
ther, the  "spirits"  in  their  proper  place,  and  the  empty 
bottle  filled  with  surplus  enthusiasm,  to  be  uncorked 
when  wanted,  we  began  retracing  our  steps  to  the 
beginning  of  new  wonders. 

It  is  not  my  intention  to  give  a  detailed  account  of 
all  the  various  avenues,  halls,  domes,  and  other  won- 
ders which  I  have  seen ;  it  would  fill  a  volume,  and 
exhaust  my  vocabulary.     I  shall  only  attempt  to  de- 


A  General  View.  295 

scribe  a  few  of  the  most  imposing  and  attractive 
features  of  the  Cave,  which  is  no  vast  charnel-house, 
impure,  unarchitectural,  and  commonplace,  but  a 
succession  of  splendid  streets,  domes,  and  arches,  all 
buried  deep  within  the  earth,  far  from  the  din  and 
strife  of  active  life,  where  the  lightning  is  never  seen, 
thunder  never  heard,  and  the  petty  convulsions  of 
nature  never  felt.  It  is  an  empire  in  ruins ;  a  city 
sepulchred  by  mountains,  its  half  buried  palaces, 
halls,  and  domes,  still  revealed  and  visible  in  their  full 
architectural  beauty ;  its  cornices,  its  galleries,  its 
vaulted  ceilings,  "  wonderfully  symmetrical  and  mys- 
teriously upheld."  And  then,  the  diversity  of  its 
scenery,  the  variety  of  its  formations,  its  mountains, 
rivers,  cataracts,  its  interminable  labyrinths,  its  unfa- 
thomable abysses,  its  domes  entombed,  its  palaces  in 
ruins,  all  combine  to  make  it  one  of  the  grandest, 
most  sublime,  and  beautiful  specimens  of  the  handi- 
work of  the  Great  Architect — Him 

" Whose  breath  can  still  the  winds, 

Uncloud  the  sun,  charm  down  the  swelUng  sea, 
And  stop  the  floods  of  Heaven." 


296  Mammoth  Cave. 

The  Gothic  Avenue  is  two  miles  long,  from  thirty 
to  forty  feet  wide,  and  of  a  corresponding  height.  It 
received  its  name  from  the  curiously  arched  ceiling, 
which  bears  a  rude  resemblance  to  Gothic  architec- 
ture. Its  walls  are  covered  wdth  hanging  stalactites, 
some  of  which  are  white  and  lustrous  like  Parian 
marble ;  others  as  clear  and  transparent  as  crystal. 
Many  of  these  crystallizations  depend  in  huge  masses 
from  the  ceilings,  and  are  of  such  peculiar  brilliancy, 
that  they  might,  at  a  distance,  be  mistaken  for 
immense  chandeliers  covered  with  diamonds.  These 
brilliant  incrustations  glittered  and  coruscated  in 
the  light  of  our  uplifted  torches,  as  we  waved  them 
to  and  fro  beneath  the  gem-studded  canopy. 

In  this  vicinity,  are  many  novel  and  interesting 
places,  whose  peculiar  nomenclature  is  derived  from 
Biography,  History  sacred  and  profane,  Zoology, 
Mythology,  and  the  imagination.  I  visited  the  Haunted 
Chamber,  stood  for  a  while  beneath  Annetti's  Dome, 
drank  from  the  Crystal  Pool,  leaned  upon  Napoleon's 
Breast- work,  gathered  cinders  from  Vulcan's  Forge, 
saw  the  Elephant's  Head,  tweaked  St.  Anthony's 
Nose,    and   becoming   weary,    rested   myself  in    the 


The  Gothic  Chapel.  297 

Devil's  arm-chair.  The  seat  dedicated  to  his  Satanic 
Majesty  is  a  stalagmitic  formation,  the  top  of  which 
is  sufficiently  depressed  to  afford  a  comfortable  rest- 
ing-place  for  the  visitor.  But  I  was  so  dull  or 
unimaginative,  as  not  to  be  able  to  discover  in  it  any 
particular  resemblance  to  an  arm-chair. 

The  principal  attraction  of  this  avenue  is  the 
Gothic  Chapel,  which  is  of  such  unique  formation, 
and  so  peculiar  and  elaborate  in  its  ornamentation', 
as  to  excite  wonder  and  admiration  in  the  beholder. 
It  is  a  sort  of  Gothic  Temple,  elliptical  in  shape,  and 
some  fifty  by  eighty  feet  in  diameter.  The  lofty 
ceiling  is  supported  by  stalagmite  columns,  and  rib- 
bed and  bracketed  with  stalactites.  These  columns 
expand  into  majestic  arches  as  they  approach  the 
ceiling,  where  they  unite  with  the  stalactical  drapery 
from  above,  -which  descends  in  massive  folds,  giving 
to  the  whole  interior  a  grand  and  imposing  appear- 
ance. Our  guide  so  arranged  the  lights  as  to  cause 
their  reflections  to  fall  upon  the  ceiling  and  the  sup- 
porting columns,  which  so  increases  the  effect,  that 
the  spectator  can  almost  imagine  himself  to  be  gazing 

upon   the  interior  of  some  vast  Cathedral  or  Gothic 

13 


298  Mammoth  Cave. 

Temple  of  antiqiuty.  Before  leaving  this  avenue, 
we  visited  the  Eegister  Eoomj  but  did  not  leave  our 
"handwriting  on  the  wall,"  not  being  ambitious  of 
that  kincf  of  immortality.  The  ceiling  here  is  but 
ten  or  twelve  feet  high^  and  would  be  as  smooth  and 
white  as  plaster  of  Paris,  were  it  not  that  many 
visitors,  to  gratify  a  low,  morbid  vanity,  trace  their 
names  in  vile  lamp-smoke ;  thus  blackening  and  dis- 
figuring one  of  the  most  chaste  and  beautiful  apart- 
ments in  this  vast  Temple  of  Nature. 

The  beauty  of  many  parts  of  this  cave  has  beeii 
marred  by  visitors  breaking  off  and  carrying  away 
the  most  beautiful  stalactites  and  other  formations^ 
which  can  never  be  replaced.  This  wanton  vandal- 
ism is  unpardonable,  from  the  fact,  that  the  ground 
in  many  places  is  covered  with  beautiful  specimens 
which  have  fallen  from  above,  and  may  be  had  for 
the  picking  up.  In  one  of  the  small  grottoes,  cele- 
brated for  the  beauty  of  its  dog-tooth  spar,  a  few 
years  ago,  a  creature  wearing  the  semblance  of  huma- 
nity, broke  off  and  carried  away  one  of  the  largest 
and  most  beautiful  of  these  crystallizations.  Not 
content  with  this  desecration,  he  inscribed  his  name 


The  Star  Chamber.  299 

on  the  frao^rncnt  rcmaininsr,  not  omittinfTj  his  imde- 
served  title  of  "  Reverend,"  for  it  appears  that  this 
sacrilegious  despoiler  of  Grod's  workmanship  was 
a  clergyman. 

After  leaving  this  avenue,  we  come  to  a  place  of 
peculiar  interest  to  susceptible  youths  and  sentimental 
young  ladies,  who  are  said  to  be  on  the  qui  vive  when 
they  enter  its  precincts.  It  is  called  "  the  Lover's 
Leap ;"  although  I  could  discover  nothing  in  the  spot 
or  its  surroundings  to  warrant  so  expressive  an 
appellative.  A  long,  narrow,  pointed  rock  is  to  be 
seen  projecting  quite  a  distance  over  a  deep  pit  full 
of  jagged  rocks  and  broken  stones.  But  I  could  not 
learn  that  it  had  ever  been  the  scene  of  any  such 
imbecile  exploit  as  is  suggested  by  the  name.  AYe 
now  retraced  our  steps  to  the  main  avenue,  and  after 
a  short  respite  proceeded  to  the  Star  Chamber,  by  far 
the  most  solemn,  grand,  and  imposing  apartment  in 
this  cave.  And  I  can  say — without  partaking  of  any 
of  my  hottled  enthusiasm — that  I  witnessed  while  there 
one  of  the  most  sublimely  beautiful  sights  I  ever 
beheld,  and  one  that  I  shall  never  forget  as  long  as 
memory  sits  securely  upon  her  throne.     This  "  Cham- 


300  Mammoth  Cave. 

ber,"  as  it  is  called,  is  a  long,  magnificent  hall,  sixty 
feet  high,  with  a  flat  ceiling.     The  walls  on  each  side 
are  of  a  light  color,  and  are  nearly  perpendicular 
nntil  within  a  few  feet  of  the  top,  w^hen  they  recede, 
making  the  room  appear  of  an  immense  height.     The 
ceiling  is  covered  with  a  black  incrustation  of  gyp- 
sum, studded  with  crystals,  which  have  the  appear- 
ance of  stars  in  a  dark  night ;   and  so  perfect  is  the 
illusion,   that  one  can  hardly  persuade  himself  that 
the  sky  is  not  visible  through  an   opening  in   the 
roof     Our  guide,    who    understands    the    dramatic 
effect   to   be  produced  by    "lights    and    shadows," 
placed  our  lamps  under  a  rock,  so  as  to  throw  a  soft, 
mellow  light  upon  the  ceiling,  revealing  the  delicate 
marbling  of  the  sky,  and  its  artistically  blended  lights 
and  shades.     Then  he  would  increase  the  shadow,  to 
give  the  appearance  of  an  approaching  storm,  until 
the  whole  heavens  were  darkened  b}^  the  threatening 
clouds.     All  that  w^as  wanting  to  complete  the  illu- 
sion was  the  lightning's  vivid  flash,   and  the  deep 
mutterings  of  the  distant  thunder.     It  was  a  scene 
that  cannot  well  be  described,  but  must  be  seen  to  be 
appreciated. 


Stephen,  the  Guide.  301 

This  ended  our  first  day's  exploration. — We  bad 
been  six  hours  in  darkness  (except  what  little  light 
was  emitted  from  our  faintly  glimmering  lamps),  and 
had  w^alked  about  nine  miles.  When  Ave  emerged 
from  the  cave,  the  sun  was  shining  brightly,  and  we 
were  almost  blinded  by  the  intensity  of  light.  The 
air  felt  hot  and  oppressive,  although  the  day  was  not 
very  warm,  and  we  all  complained  of  a  feeling  of 
prostration  that  we  did  not  experience  in  the  Cave. 
We,  however,  succeeded  in  reaching  the  Hotel,  and 
eight  o'clock  found  me  courting  sleep  with  "an 
alacrity  "  worthy  of  Sancho  Panza. 

The  next  morning,  daylight  and  /  opened  our  eyes 
simultaneously  ;  and  long  before  Old  Sol  was  fairly 
awake,  the  Scotchman  and  myself,  and  Stephen,  wath 
his  "  lamps  trimmed  and  burning,"  had  entered  upon 
our  three-mile  journey  to  that  subterranean  river  of 
Oblivion  known  as  Lethe. 

As  our  guide  will  figure  somewhat  conspicuously 
in  this  narration,  a  short  description  of  him,  I  trust, 
will  not  be  considered  inappropriate,  or  prove  unin- 
teresting. It  wnll  at  least  serve  to  occupy  the  time 
until  I  see  some  new  natural  curiosity  to  describe. 


302  Mammoth  Cave. 

Stephen  is  said  to  be  an  Indian-mulatto  (a  curious 
admixture  truly),  but  he  has  more  the  physiognomy 
of  the  Spaniard  than  of  the  Indian  or  African.  He 
is  rather  below  medium  size,  symmetrically  formed, 
athletic,  and  celebrated  for  his  daring  exploits  and 
love  of  adventure.  He  is  now  about  forty  years  of 
age,  and,  like  most  celebrities,  has  been  accustomed 
to  good  society.  Having  associated  so  much  with 
scientific  men,  and  the  literati  of  all  nations,  he  has 
acquired  a  smattering  of  several  different  languages, 
and  become  familiar  with  most  of  the  geological 
formations  of  the  cave.  He  can  discourse  quite 
learnedly  upon  Geology  and  its  kindred  sciences,  and 
will  detect  a  piece  of  stalagmite  from  a  stalactite,  as 
readily  as  a  skilful  lapidary  will  distinguish  a  real 
diamond  from  an  imitation.  His  features  are  quite 
refined  and  classical,  and  his  countenance  has  a  mild 
and  pleasant  expression.  His  complexion  is  of  a 
dark  olive,  and  his  "  love  of  a  moustache,"  together 
with  his  black  curling  hair  and  dark  melancholy 
eyes,  are  undoubtedly  dag uerreo typed  on  the  heart  of 
many  a  sable  damsel.  Having  recently  obtained  his 
freedom,  he  has  some  idea  of  emigrating  to  Liberia, 


Human  Remains.  303 

but  his  attach ment  to  this  cave  and  its  surroundings 
is  so  great  that  I  doubt  whether  he  can  ever  be 
induced  to  be  separated  from  it.  One  would  sup})Oso 
that  he  would  become  tired  of  going  over  the  same 
ground  day  after  day,  and  year  after  year,  but  he 
assured  me  that  it  was  ^^  labor  of  love"  to  him,  that 
he  seldom  passed  through  it  without  discovering  some 
new  beauty,  some  hitherto  unrevealed  attraction,  and 
that  he  never  would  tire  of  traversing  its  silent  halls 
and  solitary  avenues.  Stephen  was  very  communi- 
cative, and  pointed  out  every  place  of  interest.  lie 
showed  us  where  the  body  of  a  woman  was  found 
when  the  cave  was  first  explored.  It  was  in  a  good 
state  of  preservation,  although  not  embalmed  accord- 
ing to  the  manner  of  the  Egyptians,  The  body 
was  wrapped  in  half-dressed  deer  skins ;  at  its  feet 
lay  a  pair  of  moccasins,  and  various  trinkets  and 
ornaments,  such  as  were  worn  by  the  Aborigines. 
Human  bones  have  been  dug  up  in  different  parts 
of  the  cave,  and  numerous  Indian  relics  and  curiosi- 
ties found ;  such  as  bows,  arrow-heads,  hatchets,  and 
other  articles  of  Indian  warfare.  Near  a  place  called 
Richardson's  Spring  is  a  rock  in  which  the  prints  of 


304  Mammoth  Cave. 

moccasins  are  distinctly  visible^  suggesting  the  inte- 
resting probabihty  of  the  cave  having  been,  at  some 
remote  period,  inhabited  by  "  a  race  of  forest-born 
monarchs." 

We  are  now  upon  the  high  bank  above  the  Eiver 
Stj'x,  celebrated  in  Mammoth  Cave  history,  as  well 
as  in  heathen  mythology,  and  from  the  unearthly 
darkness  and  gloom  overshadowing  it  one  might 
almost  imagine  it  to  be  the  fabled  stream  whose  name 
it  bears.  We  descend  a  long  sloping  bank  to  the 
water's  edge.  Huge  defiant-looking  rocks  overarch 
the  entrance.  Beyond  and  below  is  chaos.  Our 
dim  lights  will  not  penetrate  the  profound  darkness, 
which  hangs  like  a  pall  before  us.  We  enter  a  small 
boat ;  our  lamps  are  placed  in  the  bottom,  so  that  the 
light  will  be  reflected  upwards,  and  we  are  launched 
upon  the  inky  bosom  of  these  ever  midnight  waters. 
Gradually  the  light  falls  upon  the  broad,  finely  arched 
ceiling,  beneath  which  we  are  noiselessly  gliding — 
with  occasional  fissures  in  the  rock,  revealing  the 
intense  darkness  beyond.  Our  Charon,  with  his  dark 
luminous  eyes  peering  from  under  his  slouched  hat, 
as  he  sits  crouched  in  the  stern  of  the  boat,  presents 


Echo  River.  30 J 

a  biglily  imaginative  picture  of  bis  fabulous  name- 
sake.    It  was  a  fine  scene  for  a  craj'on. 

A  third  of  a  mile  carries  us  to  the  opposite  shore. 
After  a  short  walk  over  rocks  and  sandbanks,  we 
come  to  another  boat  of  larger  dimensions,  which  is  to 
bear  us  over  the  waters  of  Lethe.  We  are  now  three 
hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  below  the  surface  of  the 
earth.  This  river  sometimes  rises  fifty  feet  above  its 
present  height ;  and  with  its  foaming  cataracts,  and  its 
yawning  chasms  gurgling  with  the  sound  of  rushing 
w^ater,  is  said  to  present  an  aspect  of  awful  grandeur. 

This  passage  is  nearly  a  mile  long,  and  the  whole 
distance  replete  with  interest.  At  the  further  end  is 
the  famous  Echo  River,  which  during  high  water  is 
merely  a  continuance  of  Lethe.  The  entrance  to 
this  river  is  through  an  arched  gateway  of  rocks,  so 
low  that  a  slight  rise  of  the  water  will  prevent  the 
passage  of  boats,  and  at  no  time  is  there  a  space  of 
more  than  three  feet  between  the  water  and  the  rocks 
above.  We  were  fortunate  in  finding  sufficient  space 
to  admit  our  boat ;  although  for  a  few  moments  we 
were  compelled  to  humble  ourselves  in  a  manner  nei- 
ther graceful  nor  agreeable. 

13* 


306  Mammoth  Cave. 

This  ordeal  passed,  we  emerged  into  the  open 
river,  where  the  rocks  were  high  above  our  heads. 
While  here,  our  guide  fired  a  pistol,  the  report  of 
which  was  deafenins^.  The  sound  reverberated  and 
echoed  from  arch  to  arch,  and  dome  to  dome,  like 
continuous  thunder.  The  echo  is  truly  wonderful, 
and  answers  fully  the  descriptions  that  have  been  given 
of  it,  continuing,  I  should  judge,  for  some  twelve  or 
fifteen  seconds.  At  first,  it  is  remarkably  clear  and 
distinct,  but  changes  to  a  soft  and  musical  cadence  as 
it  dies  away  in  the  distance.  I  notified  Stephen  the 
night  before,  when  I  engaged  him  to  go  with  us  into 
the  cave,  that  he  must  be  prepared  to  do  justice  to 
his  reputation  as  a  singer,  as  we  should  expect  him 
to  "  discourse  most  eloquent  music"  on  the  occasion. 

It  is  a  fact  known  to  all  who  are  familiar  with  this 
part  of  the  cave,  that  sound  is  very  much  modified 
and  softened  by  being  produced  here ;  while,  at  the 
same  time,  the  volume  is  greatly  increased.  The 
harshest  notes  become  quite  mellow,  and  the  most 
"unmelodious  voices  comparatively  sweet.  It  is  not 
strange  then,  that  Stephen,  who  has  a  rich,  musical 
voice,  and  a  thorough  knowledge  of  acoustics  in  its 


Musical  Echoes.  .  307 

connexion  with  this  place,  should  prove  an.  attractive 
feature  in  the  scene.  He  sang  for  us  several  popular 
airs  appropriate  to  the  occasion — such  as  "  The  Cana- 
dian Boat  Song,"  **  My  old  Kentucky  Home,"  and 
"  Oft  in  the  Stilly  Night."  He  would  pause  long 
enough  at  the  end  of  every  line,  for  the  last  word  to 
be  echoed  back,  the  effect  of  which  was  indescribably 
fine.  In  the  song  of  "  Oft  in  the  Stilly  Night,"  the 
word  night  came  back  clear  and  distinct,  and  as  musi- 
cal as 


" a  heavenly  breath 

Along  an  earthly  lyre." 

There  was  a  pathos  blended  and  infused  into  the 
melody,  which  caused  a  feeling  of  sadness  to  steal 
imperceptibly  over  me.  While  impressed  w^ith  these 
feelings,  Stephen  commenced  singing  "  Old  Hundred," 
assisted  by  Mr.  Frazer,  whose  voice  was  exceedingly 
rich  and  powerful.  It  was  impressive  beyond  de- 
scription, and  I  almost  imagined  myself  in  some  vast 
cathedral,  listening  to  the  rich  swelling  notes  of 
the  organ.  A  change  came  over  the  spirit  of  my 
dreams,  I  was  no  longer  of  this  "  earth,  earthy,"  but  an 


308  Mammoth  Cave. 

inhabitant  of  the  celestial  world.  I  was  transferred, 
in  imaoination,  to  the  abodes  of  bliss — to  the  mid- 
night  sanctuary  of  the  Great  Jehovah — where  the 
air  was  vocal  with  the  swelling  notes  of  Praise  from 
his  attendant  choir  of  angels. 

*'  For  ichat  can  wake 

I 

The  soul's  strong  instinct  of  another  world, 
Like  music !" 

We  are  now   "  on  the  other  side  of"  Lethe,  and 
I  am  not  forgetful  that  we  have  yet  five  weary  miles 
"  over  a  hard  road  to  travel,"  before  we  reach  the 
further  end  of  this  universe  of  wonders.     The  scenery 
has   entirely   changed.     Our  path  is  constantly  ob- 
structed by  fragmentary  rocks,  over  which  we  climb ; 
chasms,  into  which  we  descend ;  and  wild  unearthly 
places,  through  which  we  pass :  and  were  it  not  for 
the  grandeur  of  the  scene,  and  the  visions  of  sand- 
wiches and  other  edibles  promised  at  the  end,  con- 
stantly before  me,  I  could  not  have  accomplished  the 
distance  without  the  friendly  aid  of  Stephen's  back, 
which  has  been  a  "pack-saddle"  for  many  a  valetudi- 
narian, whose  curiosity  was  greater  than  his  endur- 


A  Perilous  Labyrinth.  309 

ance.     But  Steplien  promises  us  new  sights  and  new 
marvels,  and  I  must  try  and  follow  him. 

As  my  sheet  is  becoming  longer,  I  fear,  than  your 
patience,  I  shall  only  describe  a  few  of  the  prominent 
attractions  of  this  five  miles  of  wonders.     AVe  pass 
through  Silliman's  Avenue,  two  miles  in  length,  and 
over  the  Infernal  Eegions,  which  are  almost  as  deep, 
and  finally  reach  the  Pass  of  El  Ghor — a  fearful- 
looking  place  a  mile  and  a  half  long,  which  is  filled 
with  enormous  rocks  above,  below,  and  around,  look- 
ing as  if  the  least  jar  would  dislodge  and  hurl  them 
upon  our  devoted  heads.     As  we  climbed  over  the 
immense  boulders  which  appeared  as  if  they  had  just 
fallen  from  the  roof,  and  gazed  for  the  first  time  on  the 
dark  Titanic  masonry  rising  on  each  side  a  hundred 
feet   above   us ;    with   its   fearful  looking  clefts,   its 
yawning  seams,  and  ponderous  masses  of  loosened 
rock  stariuGj  us  in  the  face,  it  was  not  strano^e  that 
"  each  particular  hair''  of  our  heads  should  incline 
to  a  perpendicular  attitude.     And  when  I  beheld  an 
enormous  rock  projecting  over  us   like    "  a  mighty 
Atlantean  roof,"  without  any  visible  support,  I  con- 
fess that  I  became  insensible  to  fatigue,  and  my  loco- 


310  Mammoth  Cave. 

motion  was  quickened  into  increased  activity  until  I 
was  beyond  tlie  reach  of  all  imaginary  danger. 

After  climbing  over  a  few  more  rocks,  and  passing 
through  several  narrow  defiles,  we  reached  the  termi- 
nus of  this  truly  perilous-looking  labyrinth.  A  long 
ladder  invited  us  to  ascend.  On  reaching  the  top, 
we  found  ourselves  within  a  bower  worthy  of  being 
dedicated  to  the  Goddess  Pomona.  It  is  called  Mar- 
tha's Vineyard,  on  account  of  the  beautiful  incrusta- 
tions, resembling  in  form  and  appearance  immense 
bunches  of  grapes,  which  cluster  upon  its  sides  and 
ceiling.  These  pearl-tinted  and  amber-hued  products 
of  this  subterranean  vineyard  are  beautiful  to  look 
at,  and  would  be  likely  to  excite  the  alimentiveness 
and  cupidity  of  some  of  the  fair  daughters  of  Eve, 
were  their  curiosity  as  irrepressible  as  that  of  their 
great  ancestress.  But  this  calcareous  fruit,  I  imagine, 
would  not  be  very  palatable  ;  or  the  tasting  of  it  as 
productive  of  serious  consequences  to  after-humanity, 
as  was  the  eating  the  product  of  "  the  forbidden  tree" 
by  our  first  parents. 

After  leaving  this  bower,  we  entered  a  long  avenue, 
and  a  short  walk  brought  us  to  Washington  Hall, 


Cleveland's  Avenue.  311 

the  usual  place  for  dining ;  and  from  the  quantities  of 
broken  bottles  scattered  around  and  other  spiritual 
manifestations,  I  judged  that  many  of  the  visitors, 
if  not  converts  to  spiritualism,  were  at  least  desirous 
to  cultivate  an  intimate  acquaintance  with  that  recon- 
dite subject.  We  rested  here  for  a  while,  ate  our 
biscuit  and  ham  (without  champagne  sauce),  and 
"  talked  turkey"  over  the  dissected  limb  of  a  vene- 
rable gobbler,  whose  toughness  was  as  incredible  as 
his  age. 

The  next  place  worthy  of  note  is  Cleveland's 
Avenue,  which  many  consider  to  be  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal attractions  of  this  cavernous  temple.  It  is  a 
gorgeous  apartment,  rivalling  in  beauty  the  Gothic 
avenue,  though  much  more  extensive.  This  avenue 
is  three  miles  long,  about  twenty  feet  high,  and 
from  sixty  to  seventy  feet  wide ;  its  vast  ceiling  and 
sides  are  covered  with  white  crystallizations,  studded 
with  stalactical  gems,  and  sparkling  with  calcareous 
diamonds.  It  has  been  said  by  a  distinguished  geo- 
logist, that  this  avenue  contains  a  petrified  form  of 
nearly  every  vegetable  production  indigenous  to  this 
locality.     There  is  undoubtedly  some   truth   in  this 


312  Mammoth  Cave. 

assertion,  for  the  walls  and  ceiling  are  covered  with 
incrustations  resembling  in  shape  and  appearance 
many  kinds  of  vegetables,  fruits,  and  flowers.  Some 
of  these  are  massive  in  their  proportions,  and  hard  as 
adamant ;  others,  small  and  delicate  as  the  lily,  and 
fragile  as  wax- work.  "  So  exquisite  and  beautiful," 
says  one  tourist,  "  is  Cleveland's  Avenue,  that  it  is  out 
of  the  power  of  painter  or  poet  to  conceive  anything 
like  it.  Such  loveliness  cannot,  indeed,  be  described. 
— Were  the  sovereigns  of  wealthy  states  to  spend 
their  all  on  the  most  skilful  lapidaries  they  could 
find,  with  the  view  of  rivalling  the  splendor  of  this 
truly  regal  abode,  the  attempt  would  be  entirely  in 
vain.     *     *     * 

"  It  is  incrusted  from  end  to  end  with  the  most 
beautiful  formations,  in  every  variety  of  form.  The 
base  of  the  whole  is  carbonate  of  lime — in  one  part 
of  dazzling  whiteness,  and  perfectly  smooth ;  and  in 
other  places,  crystallized  so  as  to  glitter  like  diamonds 
in  the  light. 

"  Some  of  the  crystals  bear  a  striking  resemblance 
to  branches  of  celery,  and  all  are  about  the  same 
length,  while  others,  a  foot  or  more  in  length,  have 


Gorgeous  Incrustations.  313 

the  color  and  appearance  of  vanilla  cream  candy. 
Others  arc  set  in  sulphate  of  lime,  in  the  form  of  a 
rose ;  and  others  still  roll  out  from  the  base  in  forms 
resembling  the  ornaments  on  the  capital  of  a  Corin- 
thian column.  Some  of  the  incrustations  are  massive 
and  splendid ;  others  are  as  delicate  as  the  lily,  or  as 
fancy-work  of  shell  or  wood.  Let  any  person  think 
of  traversing  an  arched  way  like  this  for  a  mile  and 
a  half,  and  all  the  wonders  of  the  tales  of  youth — 
not  forgetting  those  gorgeous  fictions,  '  The  Arabian 
Nights' — seem  tame  and  uninteresting  when  brought 
into  com^Darison  with  the  living,  growing  reality. 
The  term  '  growing'  is  not  a  misnomer  ;  the  process 
is  going  on  before  your  eyes.  Successive  coats  of 
these  incrustations  have  been  perfected,  and  then 
crowded  off  by  others ;  so  that  hundreds  of  tons  of 
these  gems  lie  at  your  feet,  and  are  crushed  as  you 
pass,  while  the  work  of  restoring  the  ornaments  for 
Nature's  boudoir  is  proceeding  around  you.  Ilere 
and  there  through  the  whole  extent,  you  will  find 
openings  in  the  side,  into  w^hich  you  may  thrust  the 
person,  and  often  stand  erect  in  little  grottoes,  perfectly 
incrusted  with  a  delicate  white  substance,  reflecting 


314  Mammoth  Cave. 

the  lights  from  a  thousand  glittering  points.  Many 
visitors  are  so  enraptured  with  the  place,  that  they 
cannot  repress  exclamations  of  surprise  or  worship." 
We  will  now  leave  this  avenue.  A  short  walk 
brings  us  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  ^Hhe  fourth  and 
last"  great  feature  of  this  subterranean  universe.  I 
hardly  know  how  to  describe  the  awful  grandeur  of 
this  place,  and  its  adjunct,  The  Dismal  Hollow.  It 
is  a  room  of  immense  breadth  and  height,  with  a 
mountainous  pile  of  rocks  at  its  entrance,  which  rise 
in  the  form  of  an  amphitheatre  nearly  to  the  ceiling. 
These  rocks  are  of  almost  every  conceivable  size  and 
form ;  sharp,  jagged,  and  heaped  together  in  "  chaotic 
confusion,"  having  undoubtedly  been  loosened  from 
the  roof  b}^  some  tremendous  convulsion  of  Nature. 
Clambering  up  this  mountain  of  rocks  fifty  or  sixty 
feet,  we  discovered  on  the  other  side  an  immense 
hollow  stretching  off  into  the  darkness  and  gloom. 
Our  guide  illuminated  the  place,  revealing  the  wilder- 
ness of  desolation  before  us.  You  can  conceive  of 
nothing  terrestrial  that  is  more  dismal  and  sepulchral 
than  this  spot,  which  impressed  us  with  a  kind  of 
^'  holy  horror"  as  we  gazed  into  its  gloomy  confines. 


Stalactites  and  Stalagmites.  315 

A  sliort  distance  from  here  is  Croglian's  Ilall,  the 
end  of  this  portion  of  the  cave,  and  nine  miles  from 
daylight^  and  "  the  light  of  other  days."  Tliis  is  a 
large  room,  semi-rotunda  in  form,  the  roof  and  sides 
of  which  are  draped  with  wavy  sheets  of  stalactite, 
extending  from  the  ceiling  to  the  floor.  Some  were 
a  dingy  w^hite,  others  of  a  translucent,  icy  hue,  look- 
ing not  unlike  a  congealed  water-fall.  In  the  dim 
distance,  uprising  from  the  rocky  floor,  were  several 
stalagmite  columns,  about  the  size  of  the  human 
form;  which,  amid  the  sepulchral  stillness  of  this 
weird-like  place,  looked  as  if  they  might  be  sheeted 
ghosts  or  "  goblins  damn'd."  While  gazing  on  these 
apparitions  there  came  over  me — 

"  An  undefined  and  sadden  thrill 
That  makes  the  heart  a  moment  still, 
Then  beat  with  quicker  pulse,  ashamed 
Of  that  stranoje  sense  of  silence  framed." 

While  my  imagination  was  thus  excited,  our  guide 
extinguished  the  lamps,  and  led  us  slowly  along 
through  the  intense  darkness  wdiich  enveloped  us 
like  a  pall.  I  had  great  confidence  in  Stephen,  yet  I 
could  not  divest  myself  of  a  sort  of  nervous  apprc- 


316  Mammoth  Cave. 

liension  and  dread,  as  we  followed  him  with  slow  and 
cautious  footsteps.  After  proceeding  quite  a  distance 
he  stopped  and  ignited  a  Bengal  light.  As  the  blue 
sulphurous  flame  ascended,  I  discovered  that  we  were 
standing  on  the  brink  of  a  frightful  abyss,  I  started 
back  alarmed,  but  being  reassured  by  our  guide, 
approached  this  yawning  chasm.  As  I  looked  down 
into  its  fearful  depths,  which  had  never  yet  been 
fathomed,  my  ear  was  greeted  by  the  dull  roar  of  an 
invisible  waterfall.  The  ground  was  damp  and  slip- 
pery, from  a  mist,  which,  though  scarcely  perceptible, 
was  diffused  through  the  surrounding  atmosphere. 
A  kind  of  nervous  chillness  crept  over  me,  and  I 
instinctively  shuddered  as  I  gazed  into  these  gloomy 
regions.  It  was  by  far  the  most  frightful  place  I  ever 
beheld,  and  I  could  hardly  realize  that  I.  was  not 
standing  on  the  brink  of  that  mythical  place  known 
as  Tartarus ;  which  has  been  described  as 

"  A  black  and  hollow  vault 
Where  day  is  never  seen  ;  there  shines  no  sun, 
But  flaming  horror  of  consuming  fires  ; 
A  lightless  sulphur,  chok'd  with  smoky  fogs 
Of  an  infected  darkness." 


The  Eyeless  Fish.  317 

A  thousand  fantasies  filled  my  mind,  and  I  was  glad 
to  leave  this  place  of  supernatural  horrors,  lest  my 
sleep  that  night  be  disturbed  by  spectral  visions  and 
apparitions  dire. 

On  our  return  voyasre  of  the  Lethe,  we  tried  to 
catch  some  of  the  eyeless  fish  which  abound  in  that 
river,  but  the  water  was  too  deep  for  success.  As  I 
did  not  have  the  pleasure  of  seeing  one  of  these 
anomalies  of  the  finny  tribe,  I  shall  have  to  depend 
for  a  description  upon  those  who  have  been  more 
fortunate  than  myself  They  are  about  the  size  of  a 
minnow,  from  one  and  a  half  to  two  inches  long, 
perfectly  white,  translucent,  and  without  a  vestige  of 
the  visual  organ.  Scientific  men,  however,  disagree 
in  this  particular.  Some  say  that  they  cannot  dis- 
cover the  least  appearance  of  an  eye,  even  with  a 
powerful  microscope  ;  while  others  contend  that  they 
once  had  eyes,  and  that  a  collapsed  socket  is  clearly 
discernible.  Sut  when  learned  men  disagree  upon 
piscatory  subjects,  who  is  to  of-^is/i-iate  as  umpire  ? 

How  I  got  back  to  the  "  breathing  world"  again  to 
dinner  and  daylight,  I  have  not  time  now  to  inform 
you.     Though  I  had  performed  a  journey  of  eighteen 


318  Mammoth  Cave. 

miles,  in  and  out,  within  a  period  of  nine  hours,  I 
resolved  to  add  one  more  mile  to  my  day's  labor,  and 
visit  again  the  Star  Chamber,  to  take  one  "  long,  last, 
lingering  look"  at  this  brilliantly  beautiful  apartment, 
and  to  gaze  for  a  while  upon  those  midnight  sentinels 
in  the  glorious  firmament  above — upon  the  stars, 
those  silent  spirits  of  Nature,  though  silent  they 
seem, 

"  Yet  each  to  the  thoughtful  eye, 
Glows  with  mute  poesy  l""^ 

My  companion  from  the  land  of  Burns — who  had 
lived  for  many  years  among  the  "  banks  and  braes  o' 
Bonnie  Doon" — was  of  a  highly  poetical  tempera- 
ment, and,  like  the  immortal  bard,  an  enthusiastic 
admirer  of  l^ature.  I  was  glad  to  find  that  he  was 
desirous,  like  myself,  to  revisit  this  attractive  spot,  to 
behold  once  more  this  glorious  evidence  of  God's 
omnipotence.  We  seated  ourselves  on  a  rock,  and 
gave  our  lamps  to  Stephen,  who  was  to  leave  us  alone 
for  a  while,  that  we  might  the  better  enjoy  the  solemn 
silence  of  this  vast  cathedral  of  Nature.  When  the 
last  footfall  had  died  on  the  ear,  and  the  last  gleam 


A  Last  Look.  319 

of  ligbt  disappeared,  wc  found  ourselves  plunged 
suddenly  into  Cimmerian  darkness.  Hark !  let  pulse 
and  breath  be  still!  We  could  not  speak.  Our 
thoughts  were  too  deep  for  utterance :  our  wonder 
and  amazement  too  great  for  expression.  It  seemed 
as  if  I  never  before  felt  so  impressively  the  majesty 
and  goodness  of  the  Creator  of  all  this  grandeur.  We 
were  aroused  from  our  reverie  by  the  resounding 
footsteps  of  our  guide,  and  the  gradual  lightening  up 
of  the  grim  grey  walls  surrounding  us.  The  illusory 
sky  appeared  to  our  view,  with  its  twinkling  stars 
and  passing  cloud,  and  we  left  this  soul-absorbing 
spot  with  reluctance  and  regret.     *     *     *     -J^-     * 

From  the  geological  formation  of  this  cave,  and 
other  indications  observed  by  visitors  in  their  exami- 
nations, it  is  evident  that  it  contains  many  apartments 
that  have  not  yet  been  explored.  In  several  places 
the  hollow  floor  echoes  and  resounds  at  our  tread, 
and  we  arc  doubtless  passing  over  some  vast  cavern 
or  opening  underneath,  separated  from  the  room 
above  by  a  thin  layer  of  rock.  And  in  one  or  more 
places  where  there  is  a  slight  opening,  the  sound  of 
an   invisible   waterfall   may   be  heard,  roaring  and 


320  Mammoth  Cave. 

tambling  in  its  frantic  but  vain  efforts  to  be  released 
from  captivity. 

In  tlie  vicinity  of  the  Mammotli  Cave,  are  several 
smaller  caves  already  explored;  also,  indications  of 
there  being  many  others,  to  which,  as  yet,  there  is  no 
entrance  from  the  upper  world.  The  whole  of  this 
region  is  cavernous,  and  abounds  in  pits  or  "  sinks" 
as  they  are  called,  where  the  surface  of  the  earth  has 
sunk  to  various  depths,  indicating  the  existence  of  a 
cavity  beneath. 

What  magnificent  Halls,  Domes,  and  Avenues, 
decorated  with  as  brilliant  stalactites,  as  beautiful 
crystallizations,  and  as  rare  mineralogical  specimens 
as  the  eye  ever  beheld,  lie  concealed  beneath  these 
hills  and  valleys,  it  remains  perhaps  for  the  future  to 
disclose.  It  is  a  fruitful  theme  for  the  imagination. 
Its  revelations — if  its  hidden  mysteries  are  ever  to 
be  revealed,  are  reserved  for  the  future  discoverer; 
and  its  history — if  ever  to  be  written — to  the  his- 
torian  of  after  time. 


THE    END. 


i 


